RESTAURANT WRITERS SALUTE LOCAL CREME DE LA CREME.

Byline: Larry Lipson Daily News Restaurant Critic

When Ivan Harrison, chef at Tam O'Shanter Inn was announced as the Chef of the Year, some 200 attendees at the annual California Restaurant Writers Association (CRWA) awards banquet gave him a standing ovation.

Held Monday in the Grand Salon of the Wyndham Bel Age Hotel, the event enticed a huge crowd of restaurant industry people who came to socialize, dine and congratulate the winners.

Winner Harrison, a 40-year employee at the Lawry's-owned restaurant, makes a traditional Scottish haggis every year when the birthday of poet Robert Burns is celebrated. He's also known for producing consistent, top-grade fare over the years, like his currently popular pork prime rib plate.

As he accepted his award, Harrison thanked Lawry's, the restaurant industry, and the dining public for elevating restaurant chefs like himself from yesteryear's kitchen anonymity to today's honored professional status.

The sentimental favorite for the award, Harrison beat out such competitors as James Boyce of the Azzurra Point restaurant at Loews Coronado Bay resort near San Diego, Serge Burckel of Splash in Redondo Beach, Michel Despras of Le St. Germain in Indian Wells and Richard Leveckis of the Dining Room of the Regent Beverly Wilshire Hotel in Beverly Hills.

Also of great local interest was the Maitre d' of the Year award. This year the competition was hot, with Phil Cano of Musso & Frank Grill in Hollywood vying against his son, Jimmy Cano of Dan Tana's in West Hollywood.

The senior Cano won.

Of the other significant awards, Hans Rockenwagner was named Restaurateur of Year. He's the chef-owner of Rockenwagner in Santa Monica. And Splash received the award for Most Promising New Restaurant.

Other top awards: Five stars for supreme achievement went to repeaters Diaghilev of the Wyndham Bel Age Hotel and the Dining Room of the Hotel Bel-Air. Also the Belvedere (which jumped from four stars), the haute restaurant in the Peninsula Hotel in Beverly Hills.

A total of 28 California restaurants won four-star awards.

Special award to the Service Person of the Year was snagged by Karen Duke of Lawry's the Prime Rib in Beverly Hills, and Pastry Chef of the Year was captured by Albert Cruz of Bernard's restaurant in downtown's Regal Biltmore Hotel.

Cruz, a previous award winner, drew a roar of laughter when he mentioned that he was so happy the last time he won, he named his new baby Tiramisu.

Duke triumphed over Lucille Duran of the Dal Rae in Pico Rivera, Bernard Inchahauspe of Les Freres Taix in Los Angeles, Fernando Jimenez of Ruth's Chris Steak House in Palm Desert, Kip Larson of Clearwater Seafood in Pasadena and Shirley Wilson of Del Conte's in Torrance.

Pastry chefs in contention with Cruz were Philippe Morlot of Le St. Germain in Palm Desert, Tobi Slovak of Dickenson West in Pasadena, and Michelle Suh of Sixth Street Bistro in San Pedro and Aioli in Torrance.

The Mike Roy Pioneer award went to Michael Taix of the 70-year old restaurant Les Freres Taix, who was a nominee with Ruth and Phil Elwell of Ye Olde King's Head in Santa Monica and Risty and Ralph Wood of Admiral Risty in Rancho Palos Verdes, while Wolfgang Puck was named Humanitarian of the Year.

In a category with only two nominees, Christopher Meeske of Patina edged Paul Bologna of Tuscany restaurant in the Marriott Desert Springs Hotel in Palm Desert as Sommelier of the Year.

Runners-up for the Restaurateur of the Year honor were Michael Botello of Wally's Desert Turtle in Palm Desert, Jovanna Cruz of Jovanna's in Palm Desert, Gerald and Sandy Del Conte of Del Conte's in Torrance, and George Moussali of Sixth Street Bistro and Aioli.

Nominees with Puck for Humanitarian of the Year were Mario del Giudice of Mario's in Indio and Rocky Aoki of Benihana.

In the shadow of the two Canos for the maitre d' title was Curt Wheeler of Ruth's Chris in Palm Desert.

And behind Splash as most promising new restaurant nominees were Limbo in West Hollywood, Michi in Manhattan Beach, Playhouse Bar & Grill in Pasadena and the new Spago in Beverly Hills.

For a complete list of 1997-98 one- though five-star award winners, special award nominees and winners, and other award information, refer to the CRWA's annual publication. The booklet is available for $8 (plus $2 postage and handling) by sending a check to the CRWA, 7715 Sunset Blvd., Suite 214, Los Angeles, Calif. 90046. Information: [phone].

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Photo

PHOTO A five-star rating for supreme achievement went to the Belvedere, under executive chef Bill Bracken, in the Peninsula Hotel in Beverly Hills.