RESTAURANT REVISITED SO SHELLFISH DELMONICO'S MAY SOUND LIKE A STEAKHOUSE, BUT SEAFOOD IS ITS MAIN APPEAL.

Byline: Larry Lipson Restaurant Critic

Delmonico's originally came into being locally when the owner of a Cajun-Creole restaurant called the Ritz Cafe on Pico Boulevard in West Los Angeles decided to change the concept altogether.

At that point a talented chef named Tony De La Cruz from the Hotel Bel Age, who had previously been at the Swiss Cafe in Beverly Hills and had worked in Switzerland for a spell, was hired to plan and kick off the new Delmonico's.

He decided on a seafood emphasis despite its steakhouse name and Delmonico's Seafood Grille was born with the slogan, ``If it swims, we've got it.''

This was in 1988. It prospered and six years later, under different ownership, a second Delmonico's was opened in Encino. In 1997, the Encino Delmonico's was taken over by that same chef. Two years later he opened a Delmonico's on La Cienega Boulevard in Beverly Hills and recently both of them were changed from Seafood Grilles to Lobster Houses.

And there's more to come. The next Delmonico's Lobster House will be, appropriately, by the sea. Look for one to open soon in Marina del Rey.

DELMONICO'S LOBSTER HOUSE

--Address: 16358 Ventura Blvd., Encino.

--Phone: [phone]

--When we last reviewed: June 3, 1994.

--How long in business: Encino's Delmonico's is seven years old.

--Menu/cuisine changes: The major cuisine change is recent, promising Maine lobster done 17 different ways, everything from a deliciously creamy lobster bisque to a two-pound steamed or broiled Maine lobster, a purist's delight. There are Maine lobster appetizers (lobster ravioli, lobster cocktail, lobster roll, lobster cake, portobello mushroom stuffed with lobster); and numerous entrees (lobster done three ways on one dish, lobster salad with a Dijon oregano vinaigrette, stuffed lobster, lobster and steak dubbed surf and turf, stuffed twin lobster tails, lobster cutlet on mashed potatoes, lobster Newburg, lobster and asparagus risotto and a shellfish platter featuring lobster.

--Decor/physical changes: The original grill room design was inspired by the Tadich Grill in San Francisco. It still looks the same way inside, but an attractive outside patio was added this year in March.

--Personnel changes: There have been several manager changes over the years, while chef and now chef-owner De La Cruz has always reigned in the kitchen. Current general manager with five years on the job is affable Robert Monheim. The owner's daughter Cindy De La Cruz has had a management role in Encino for the past four years.

--Recommendable dishes: The Maine lobster bisque here tops any restaurant versions tasted previously. It may well be the best lobster bisque in Los Angeles.

The steamed Maine lobster with sauteed vegetables and a baked potato will satisfy the true New England lobster fancier. Also worth trying are the lobster linguini for pasta lovers, an appetizing dish of spicy ahi tuna tartare, a portobello mushroom cap filled with a Maine lobster mixture, and the simple surf and turf Maine lobster and filet mignon plate.

--Service quality: Waiters and waitresses here seem to rate several notches better than those at comparable restaurants. This could be due to the rigorous two-week training period prior to actual service. Knowledge of the menu and wines are taught along with the policies and goals of Delmonico's. A test is given and has to be passed before a waiter or waitress finally attends to a table.

--Pricing: Not low. The general seafood, pasta, steak, chicken and chop main course dishes range from $12.25 to $26, but the lobster items run higher with entrees from $16 for the lobster linguini to $60 for the stuffed Maine lobster platter. The two pound Maine lobster dish is $50 and the surf and turf $37. You might spend big bucks here, but the enjoyment and gratification factor makes it worthwhile.

--Wine list/service: The wine list is a fairly conscientious listing of bottlings and wines by the glass (from $5). But relatively small glasses are used and markups on the wines run quite high. Corkage is $10 a bottle.

--Policies worth mentioning: Delmonico's has a full bar, offers a popular Sunday buffet brunch from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. featuring 102 items, and has a weekday early dinner deal (3 to 5 p.m.) where any entree on the regular menu can be chosen with a starter (mixed green salad or Boston clam chowder) and dessert (banana cream pie or cheesecake) plus a soft beverage (tea, soda or coffee) all for the regular entree price.

--Miscellaneous comments: On each side of Delmonico's impressive dining room sits a row of semi-private, rose-toned wood booths where conversation can be heard easily despite the hubbub of the crowd outside. Secure one if you can.

--Our latest ratings: food: three and one half stars, wine: two and one half, service: three and one half stars.

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Photo:

Delmonico's owner/chef Tony De La Cruz, left, manager Cindy De La Cruz and manager Jerry Koren offer up a plate of Chilean sea bass.

John Kennedy/Staff Photographer