RESTAURANT REVISITED A HALF CENTURY OF ITALIAN CLASSICS.

Byline: Larry Lipson Restaurant Critic

The name Mazzarino's and Italian food have been synonymous in the San Fernando Valley for 54 years.

Way back then, in the post-World War II heyday, Mazzarino's made its debut on the northwest corner of Coldwater Canyon and Ventura Boulevard with Mazzarino's Italian Villa. It's now the site of Twain's, a typical '50s coffee shop.

Al Mazzarino's place was one of those restaurant-club-lounges of its time, featuring fare then known as continental-Italian.

Some of the top musicians, song writers and singers like Frank Sinatra, Mario Lanza, Liberace and Johnny Mercer would hang out there after the club's 2 a.m. closing.

This Mazzarino's lasted until the mid-1950s. It relocated to its current address, then tiny quarters, as a pizzeria-style cafe. It expanded here over the years.

--Name: Mazzarino's.

--Address: 12920 1/2 Riverside Drive, Sherman Oaks. (Also Mazzarino's Italian Deli, 11946 Ventura Blvd., Studio City, 818-761-8808.)

--Phone: [phone].

--When we last reviewed: April 29, 1993.

--How long in business: Since 1947.

--Menu/cuisine changes: Current owner Liz Versten says that when she took it over, the restaurant offered the mere basics: eggplant or chicken parmigiana; meat lasagna; linguine and clams, the kitchen's only seafood dish; veal scaloppine, the only veal dish; also pizzas and pastas. Versten introduced many of her own sauces, a veggie lasagna, cioppino, premises-baked bread, a veal chop and a variety of seafood dishes. A new millennium item is the Chicago-style Italian beef sandwich with sweet or hot peppers ($6.50).

--Decor/physical changes: Biggest change was the expansion in April last year into an adjoining store, now a comfortable second dining room. Along the way Versten has repainted as necessary, recarpeted, put in lace curtains and mirrors. There are now five tables in front, outside the restaurant, giving it somewhat of a European look.

--Personnel changes: Original owner Al Mazzarino sold the restaurant to his cook, Nestor Herrera and Herrera's wife, Rose, in 1976. (Incidentally, in 1955, a cook named Jerry Bruno left the first Mazzarino's after six years to open his own pizza place in ``far-off'' Canoga Park. Bruno sold his Bruno's Pizza on Sherman Way 45 years later.) Current owner Liz Versten purchased Mazzarino's in September 1993.

Her main cook, Jose Gonzalez, came from the renowned Villa Capri in Hollywood at that time. He is there now and has been with the restaurant on and off for the past eight years. Also on the kitchen team are Roberto Oropeza and Ramon Hernandez. Dominick Marino is the restaurant's manager.

--Recommendable dishes: Mazzarino's soups (pasta e fagiole, stracciatella and minestrone) are nicely fashioned and full-flavored. Locally famous is Mazzarino's garlic cheese bread made with house-baked rolls. Sauteed whitefish, salmon, seabass or halibut comes with a choice of three preparations. Whitefish Siciliano with capers, olives, mushrooms, white wine and a light tomato broth gets our nod. Meatballs ($2.50 per order as a side dish) are well-executed here. Gnocchi ($8.50) have good flavor and are not too heavy. Veal Neapolitan ($12.50) and chicken Divine ($11.50) are good entree choices.

--Service quality: Staff appears well-acquainted with the menu. They move quickly and are gracious and attentive. Versten makes a fine host, moving around the tables, ready to ``schmooze'' with both regulars and newcomers. --Pricing: Highest-priced entrees are the veal chop ($16.95) and cioppino ($14.95). Starters range from $3.95 to $9.95, pizzas and salads from $3.95 to $12, pastas and entrees from $6.95 to $16.95, desserts (including house- produced ricotta cheesecake, cannoli and tiramisu) from $2.50 to $3.95. Major credit cards accepted.

--Wine list/service: Worthwhile small selection of wines with some interesting Italians including a Tuscan Montelpulciano for $12 a bottle, $4 a glass. A small tumbler in the authentic Italian way rather than a stemmed wine glass is used for red wines unless a stemmed glass is specifically requested. Corkage: $3.50.

--Policies worth mentioning: Lunch special ($7.50) includes a choice of several items plus garlic bread, salad and a bottomless soft drink. Free delivery within a three-mile radius. Hours are 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through Saturday, to 9 p.m. Sunday. Free parking in rear lot.

--Miscellaneous comments: Mazzarino's could be described as an old- fashioned Italian eating place. But that's not a put-down. It has a huge menu with enough variation to please just about any palate. It's a no-frills, homey kind of restaurant, the type that endures. And it draws its share of celebs. Don't be surprised to see a well-known face at its tables. Among the semi-regulars are stars and character actors Joe Mantegna, Tom Poston, Lucy Liu, Angie Dickinson, Leah Remini, Billy Capizzi, Juliet Mills, Paul Reiser and Dan Lauria.

--Our latest ratings: food: three stars wine: two and one half stars; service: three stars.

CAPTION(S):

3 photos

Photo:

(1) Liz Versten, owner of Mazzarino's Italian Deli in Sherman Oaks, raises a toast to some of its specialty dishes.

(2) A much-loved specialty at Mazzarino's is the Caprese salad - fresh mozzarella, sliced tomatoes, basil and olive oil.

(3) For seafood lovers, Mazzarino's features a shellfish-laden cioppino served over linguini.

Tina Burch/Staff Photographer