RESTAURANT REVISITED; BARSAC BRASSERIE'S COMEBACK NOHO RESTAURANT EMERGES FROM FLAMES, RETURNS AS GOOD AS EVER WITH NEW FLAVOR.

Byline: Larry Lipson Restaurant Critic

When Barsac Brasserie first opened in 1989, it was chided for not having a bottle of Barsac wine in the house. Barsac, actually the name of a town in the Sauternes district of Bordeaux, France, provides the legal name for sweet wines of that area, one of which, Chateau Broustet 1989, is priced at $60 at this restaurant.

But Barsac Brasserie, recently reopened following a fire that kept it shuttered for two months, has moved from French-accented fare to a strongly Californian and modern American menu.

--Name: Barsac Brasserie.

--Address: 4212 Lankershim Blvd., North Hollywood.

--Phone: [phone].

--When we last reviewed: Feb. 2, 1990.

--How long in business: Approaching 11 years.

--Menu/cuisine changes: Currently, there are seasonal menu changes, four per year.

--Personnel changes: Original partner Tom Bailey moved East and sold to co-owners, husband and wife James Saliba and Lisa Long, who personally run the restaurant. Chef Luis Tinoco is one of the original kitchen staff members. More recent is chef Marcello Ford, who joined Barsac in October.

--Recommended dishes: Soups are usually a good choice here. Recently tried were both potato leek and puree of asparagus soup, almost undistinguishable in looks, but definitely in taste. A highly recommended entree is the Georgia pork chop ($18), juicy, thick and nicely presented with a few daubs of cider sauce, the chop ringed with roasted apples and potatoes. A hearty comfort in cold weather is the beef bourguignonne ($17.25), and a pleasant surprise is the roasted game hen on wild rice ($17) spiced provocatively with cumin, coriander and cayenne.

--Service quality: Though there have been a few glitches since reopening (like tipping tabletops and tepid food), service should improve as things return to normal.

--Pricing: Though it's not an inexpensive restaurant, Barsac prices its seven regular salads and seven regular pastas as both appetizer size and entree size, allowing more reasonable tabs at dinner time. Currently, starters range from $3.95 for a small soup to $10.50 for a small watercress and romaine salad topped with a smidgin or two of steamed lobster. Entrees run from $12 to $19, desserts around $5.50 each.

--Wine list/service: Wine is displayed in new, handsome-looking wall racks. Wines are vintage dated. No bargains; only one bottle (1998 Markham sauvignon blanc, $24) priced under $30. Corkage: $10.

--Policies worth mentioning: Barsac ``birdbath'' martinis, some 20 varieties, are poured into 7 1/2-ounce, triangular-shaped glasses, and range from $8 to $12. During the past two years, the decor has been enhanced with changing artist exhibits, new ones every two months. All artists are from Southern California. Currently showing are the vivid watercolors of James Paul Brown from Santa Barbara.

--Our latest ratings: three stars food: two stars wine: two and one half stars service.

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Photo: Barsac Brasserie revamped its traditional French menu to include strongly Californian fare, including this steamed salmon dish. The menu also rotates seasonally four times a year.

Andy Holzman/Staff Photographer