RESTAURANT REVISITED; A LITTLE ITALIAN, A LOT OF FRENCH.

Byline: Larry Lipson Daily News Restaurant Critic

For the past two decades the Wine Bistro in Studio City has managed to keep its basic French personality despite the continuing strength and influence of Italian food on the American palate.

A favorite of the movie and television crowd from nearby studios, this haven of popular French fare, which ranges from escargots to tarte tatin, is constantly full during the midday hours when it serves as a power lunchtime rendezvous.

At night, a mix of staunch regulars, visiting French tourists and late-working studio employees and execs give the restaurant a casual yet somewhat sophisticated air in its comfortable, nicely furnished, rosy-hued confines.

Now in its 20th year, the Wine Bistro looks like it's ready to start another 20 years as a local Gallic culinary bastion. Name: Wine Bistro.

Address: 11915 Ventura Blvd., Studio City.

Phone: [phone].

When we last reviewed: June 1987.

How long in business: Approaching 20 years. Anniversary is September.

Menu/cuisine changes: Quiches, savory crepes, Bearnaise and Hollandaise sauces, once mainstays here, are only available now by request. Also, steak tartare, amandine and meuniere preparations have all but disappeared.

A few Italian ingredients and recipes have sneaked their way into this mainly French menu. You'll spot radicchio, pastas (angel hair, penne and ravioli) on the bill of fare and such special board dishes as salad caprese (with mozzarella, basil and tomato). Noticeably, tiramisu is on the dessert menu.

Decor/physical changes: Numerous interior improvements have been made through the years. Most apparent is the stocking of the bar, the result of acquiring a hard liquor license almost 15 years ago. Note that the bar will soon be moved to the front of the restaurant.

Along the way, booths and new ceiling lamps were installed, and the dining room was painted a light raspberry tone.

Five years ago, actually right after the Northridge Earthquake, the entire front was redone with French doors opening up onto a boulevard patio, which now sports a glass enclosure.

Personnel changes: Alain Cuny has been chef-owner from the start. Maitre d' Jean-Bernard ``JB'' Torchon joined Cuny as a partner in 1994.

Recommendable dishes: Escargots, traditional French onion soup, bouillabaisse, entrecote steak with fries (pommes frites), roast half duckling with Dijon mustard sauce (or a l'orange), roasted chicken with fries, foie de veau (calf's liver), profiteroles.

Service quality: Professional and accommodating.

Pricing: Starters from $6 to $9.50, entrees from $12 to $21, desserts from $5 to $7.

Wine list/service: Well-rounded selection of 62 wines, but only one bottle priced under $20. No vintage dates listed other than for a few of the better Bordeaux labels. Corkage: $12.

Policies worth mentioning: Prix-fixe dinner for $30 allows choice of any appetizer, entree and dessert. All the French holidays are celebrated here. Off-menu items are available by request, usually with advance notice, and reasonable requests are often honored spontaneously. Le Petit Salon in the rear is a private VIP room (seats eight) available to special customers with a separate tailored menu and only with owners' consent and supervision.

Our latest ratings: Three stars for food; two and a half stars for wine; three and a half stars for service.

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PHOTO Maitre d' Jean-Bernard ``JB'' Torchon, left, and chef Alain Cuny are partners in the Wine Bistro, which has been in Studio City for almost 20 years.

David R. Crane/Daily News