RESTAURANT REVISITED: THE SOUL OF CHATSWORTH LES SISTERS SOUTHERN KITCHEN KEEPS THE COMFORT FOOD COMING.Byline: Larry Lipson Restaurant Critic When Les Sisters opened 17 years ago, there were three of them - sisters, that is - Roda Hadi, who had been the oyster bar Noun 1. oyster bar - a bar (as in a restaurant) that specializes in oysters prepared in different ways bar - a counter where you can obtain food or drink; "he bought a hot dog and a coke at the bar" chef at the Fireside Inn in Encino; Willie Stanford, the financial expert, who was the business head of the trio; and Clara Huling, the main investor, who actually ended up owning the restaurant and whose son Kevin Huling runs it today. Les Sisters became Les Sister Southern Kitchen when it was subleased for a couple of years to television and film actor Ed Bernard (``The White Shadow,'' ``Blue Thunder''), who introduced barbecue to the previously Louisiana-Creole kitchen. In fact, at the time it was first reviewed in this newspaper, its fare was described as ``home-style cooking and bayou specialties.'' Name: Les Sisters Southern Kitchen. Address: 21818 Devonshire St., Chatsworth. Phone: (818) 998-0755. When we last reviewed: Nov. 26, 1986. How long in business: The restaurant opened in May 1986. Menu/cuisine changes: As previously stated, it started with a Louisiana menu of Cajun and Creole dishes, even had fresh oyster shooters, until 1988, when actor Ed Bernard subleased it. Bernard added the Southern Kitchen part to the name along with barbecued rib specialties (baby backs, spare ribs
Following the 1994 Northridge Earthquake The Northridge earthquake occurred on January 17, 1994 at 4:31 AM Pacific Standard Time in the city of Los Angeles, California. The earthquake had a "strong" moment magnitude of 6. , when the restaurant was closed for a week, the Mexican fare was discontinued. Its present culinary direction divides its food into three main categories: smoked, soul and spicy. Decor/physical changes: Les Sisters began with 10 or 11 tables and a small counter. Its tables were topped with blue oilcloth oilcloth, originally, cloth treated with oil or other substances so as to be waterproof and used for fishermen's and sailors' wear, for coach robes and covers, and later as a floor covering, called floorcloth. . It had mixed chairs, mirrors, some fake wood paneling and bright pink napkins in its water glasses. Remodeling remodeling /re·mod·el·ing/ (re-mod´el-ing) reorganization or renovation of an old structure. bone remodeling changes after the '94 quake, a fire in '95 and a recent three-week shuttering that resulted in major interior redecoration re·dec·o·rate v. re·dec·o·rat·ed, re·dec·o·rat·ing, re·dec·o·rates v.tr. To change the appearance or furnishings of; refurbish. v.intr. To change a decorative scheme. , have included a view kitchen that was eliminated later for more table space (30 to 45 seats) and the colors blue and white being discarded for green, gold and purple Mardi Gras Mardi Gras (mär`dē grä), last day before the fasting season of Lent. It is the French name for Shrove Tuesday. Literally translated, the term means "fat Tuesday" and was so called because it represented the last opportunity for hues. Personnel changes: Kevin Huling, 46, who has worked in the restaurant on and off since its inception, now owns and runs it on a full-time basis. His mother, Clara, owned the master lease when she died in 1992. Her husband, psychologist Bill Huling, still comes in on Tuesday nights to help out and is often pressed for free Tuesday night psychological advice by those regular customers who are aware of his profession. Two longtime Les Sisters cooks, Ermila Servin and Raul Aguilera, have manned the stoves continuously since 1989. Susan Warner, a 17-year veteran server here, also trains new staffers. Owner Huler's offspring, Jessica, 19, and Kevin Jr., 16, both students, currently work here part-time. Recommendable dishes: Start with hot corn muffins ($1 each) and melted butter, and everything that follows will be wonderful. I like the po' boy oyster sandwich ($7.45), crunchy Southern onions ($3), a brimming cupful of file gumbo ($7), smothered smoth·er v. smoth·ered, smoth·er·ing, smoth·ers v.tr. 1. a. To suffocate (another). b. To deprive (a fire) of the oxygen necessary for combustion. 2. chicken with collard greens Noun 1. collard greens - kale that has smooth leaves collards cole, kail, kale - coarse curly-leafed cabbage , red beans and rice Red beans and rice is an emblematic dish of Louisiana Creole cuisine (not originally of Cajun cuisine), traditionally made on Mondays with red beans, vegetables (onion and celery), spices (thyme, cayenne pepper, and bay leaf), and pork bones left over from Sunday dinner, cooked ($12.95) and that terrifically comforting buttermilk pie ($3.50). The big sellers, though, are the Southern fried chicken dinner ($10.95), which you can get regular or spicy (it's also available to go as low as $5.45), and shrimp jambalaya jam·ba·lay·a n. A Creole dish consisting of rice that has been cooked with shrimp, oysters, ham, or chicken and seasoned with spices and herbs. [Louisiana French, from Provençal jambalaia. ($9.45 to $13.45). Service quality: Servers seem to be attentive and well-trained. Pricing: Surprisingly, prices have not risen much over the years, although most everything was under $10 when Les Sisters made its debut 17 years ago. One thing that wasn't was the large dinner portion of file gumbo, then $10.95. Today, the same warming bowl is a mere $1 higher. Add two side dishes and it's a satisfying dinner for $14.95. Wine list/service: Les Sisters has never had an alcohol license. Policies worth mentioning: Every year, Les Sisters celebrates Mardi Gras with special food items. Sometimes it's a crawfish crawfish: see crayfish. broil. Sometimes it brings back past specialties like Grandpa's Folly of seasoned crab meat mixed with bread crumbs, stuffed into oyster shells, draped drape v. draped, drap·ing, drapes v.tr. 1. To cover, dress, or hang with or as if with cloth in loose folds: draped the coffin with a flag; a robe that draped her figure. in Mornay sauce, finished with grated Parmesan cheese and baked until bubbling; and the Green Phantom, which is a similar dish with spinach wrapped around the crab meat. Miscellaneous comments: Specializing in dining in, catering and takeout, Les Sisters is open for lunch from 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Tuesday through Friday, for dinner from 5 to 9 p.m. nightly except Monday, to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday. It takes AE, MC, V and Discover cards. Our latest ratings: Food: Three and one half stars - Service: Three stars Larry Lipson, (818) 713-3668 larry.lipson(at)dailynews.com CAPTION(S): photo Photo: Chef Miguel Rivas, left, and owner Kevin Huling pack the plates to the point of overflowing at Le Sisters Southern Kitchen on Devonshire Street. John Lazar/Staff Photographer |
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