RESTAURANT REVISITED: INN-COMPARABLE NORTHRIDGE MEXICAN RESTAURANT HAS RISEN TO THE OCCASION FOR 44 YEARS AND COUNTING.

Byline: Larry Lipson Restaurant Critic

Tortilla Inn, which began as a tiny Mexican cafe in a Northridge mini- mall at the end of the '50s, was founded by the late Bob Uriarte, who had previously operated commissaries at studio lots in Hollywood.

Uriarte, whose patrician good looks earned him the description ``the Ricardo Montalban of Northridge,'' was always the affable host and he developed a devoted clientele and a reputation for good Mexican food at reasonable prices, even winning awards from local and national organizations.

Over the years, Uriarte's success and expansion involved a second Tortilla Inn in Agoura (since closed) and part ownership for a while of the San Fernando Valley's oldest ongoing restaurant, Sierra's in San Fernando.

Uriarte, fighting cancer in 1998, recognized the difficulty of trying to run a restaurant during his ordeal, and put it up for sale. It was in escrow when he died on July 23, 1998.

The new owners went ahead with Uriarte's plans for a 40-year anniversary celebration. On Sept. 13 that year, dinner prices were set at the same level as when the restaurant opened. With combination Mexican dinners $2 or even less, the event was dubbed ``the local dining-out bargain of the year.''

Tortilla Inn, though keeping up with the times with certain menu additions, continues as a favorite in the North Valley, by retaining its dimly lit cantina charm and the best of old-fashioned friendliness.

Name: Tortilla Inn.

Address: 18114 Parthenia St., Northridge.

Phone: [phone]. Reservations taken.

When we last reviewed: March 11, 1993.

How long in business: Opened Sept. 11, 1958.

Menu/cuisine changes: When it first opened in the late '50s Tortilla Inn reflected the expectations of the public regarding Mexican food, which was basically tacos and enchiladas. There were tamales, taquitos, refried beans and Spanish rice, also chile relleno and perhaps chile verde. But Tortilla Inn also served a choice New York steak weighing a full pound.

As the years passed, owner Uriarte made changes. He added burritos when they became popular and, of course, fajitas.

He also introduced a dish named steak Ewing, named after a longtime customer and not after the characters in the prime-time television soap opera ``Dallas'' as some people guessed.

Today, the same steak Ewing ($9.25) made with cubed steak simmered with tomatoes, onions, chiles and accompanied by boiled beans and Spanish-style rice, is a house favorite.

Tostadas, flautas, scrambled eggs (huevos) with chorizo, a large tamale served Tepic-style (topped with chili and cheese), sopes (here called zopes), an excellent three 3/4-pound hamburgesa ($3.35), carnitas, carne asada and a dessert called bonuelos (crisped flour tortilla squares flavored with cinnamon and sugar) were added at various times.

On the current menu there are fish items (red snapper, salmon, halibut), numerous shrimp offerings, pork ribs with nopales (cactus), Mexican tortas (sandwiches), several chicken dishes including Durango and Picado styles and a trio of shrimp and/or chicken salads.

Decor/physical changes: The tiny initial storefront eatery has expanded and many changes have been during the past four decades. A bar area was added after a full liquor license was obtained and a complete exterior reface and some interior improvements were made following the 1994 earthquake.

Personnel changes: Most of the current staff, headed by the management team of chef Jose ``Pepe'' Ramirez (34 years), bartender-manager Raul Banuelos (almost 29 years), and hostess-waitress Lynn Banuelos (16 years), were employed when Irene and Vidal Quintana purchased the restaurant in 1998.

Incidentally, manager Banuelos actually started at Tortilla Inn as a busboy in November 1973.

Recommendable dishes: The albondigas soup (cup $1.95, bowl $3.95) here has always been so good that other restaurants' Mexican meatball soups are always measured in comparison. The miniature burritos, filled with either machaca or chorizo and egg ($5.25 or $6.25 for two), are superb, and you can order half and half. Also excellent is the tamal Tepic ($4.35), a tamale that's big enough to be considered a meal.

Entree items worth trying: steak Ewing, chile verde, creamed enchiladas, fish fajitas, chicken Durango, beef carnitas and the enchilada Suiza. And always ask for boiled beans and chopped cilantro.

For a traditional finish, the flan here ($2.35) is topped with a brandy and orange sauce.

And the bar serves up a fine version of Mexican coffee topped with whipped cream.

Service quality: Though this restaurant often becomes crowded, especially on Friday and Saturday nights, resulting in a wait for a table, most of the time the staff remains courteous, efficient and attentive.

Pricing: The enchilada, taco and tamale combo dinner was a mere $1.95 when Tortilla Inn opened 44 years ago. Today, the same meal costs $8.25. Chile verde was $1.50 then; now it's $7.95.

Surprisingly, everything here, even seafood plates, is under $12, with most dishes under $10. And remember, dinner prices usually include soup or salad plus rice and beans.

Wine list/service: The few wine options are limited, so Mexican beers and margaritas make more sense as beverage accompaniments. Incidentally, the bar makes all the current fruit-flavored margarita favorites.

Policies worth mentioning: There are weekday lunch specials, many of them under $5 and children's plates at $3.95 (taco, enchilada, burrito or hamburger).

In addition to margaritas, Tortilla Inn's bar makes all the currently popular cocktails. All major credit cards except Diners Club are accepted.

Miscellaneous comments: Crispy, light and warm tortilla chips with a good salsa rojo are complimentary at the bar and at tables.

Our latest ratings: food: Three and one half stars. Service: Three stars. Value: Three and one half stars.

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Photo:

Tortilla Inn offers fare such as grilled orange roughy in addition to traditional favorites.

Evan Yee/Staff Photographer