RESTAURANT REVISITED: AN EXPANSION POLICY IN TARZANA.

Byline: Larry Lipson Restaurant Critic

Almost 15 years ago, Masayuki ``Nick'' Niikura moved to a new location in Tarzana from his tiny 4-year-old sushi bar and introduced kushiyaki to the San Fernando Valley with the debut of his Kushiyu restaurant.

Niikura, who had owned an Italian restaurant in Tokyo called Magi prior to his entering the United States, quickly realized that kushiyaki, grilled tidbits on skewers, would not be enough to sustain his new venture, so within a month of opening began serving sushi as well.

Since that time, Kushiyu has developed an amazingly devoted clientele that consistently fills the seats at both Kushiyu's sushi bar and tables.

The result of this success is the recent expansion into the adjacent space, meaning that Kushiyu is now double the size and firmly established as one of the city's premier Japanese restaurants.

Name: Kushiyu

Address: 18713 Ventura Blvd., Tarzana.

Phone: [phone].

When we last reviewed: Nov. 15, 1987.

How long in business: 15 years as Kushiyu, four years previously as Niikura Sushi.

Menu/cuisine changes: When Nick Niikura opened Kushiyu, he installed a special kushiyaki grill brought in from Japan. It was the first of its kind to be used in the San Fernando Valley. Others, one in Gardena and one in Little Tokyo, were being used. But Niikura, quickly realizing that his skewered, grilled little delicacies might not be enough to carry his restaurant, installed a sushi bar within a month after its unveiling.

Since then, there have been very few changes in both the kushiyaki and sushi regular menu categories. But specials in both categories have been expanded, with an emphasis on securing the very best in each fish species constantly. Incidentally, chef Niikura claims to have pioneered both softshell crab and spicy tuna as sushi bar items, the latter being Kushiyu's best-selling product. Available in hand rolls, as sashimi and on crispy rice cakes, it is preferred on rice cakes 90 percent of the time.

Softshell crab, currently in season, is usually found as a special appetizer. You might also find Santa Barbara shrimp, fresh Pacific sardines, oysters from Washington state and Canada, live sea scallops and baby abalone, and numerous clams and fresh seafood in season from Japan.

Decor/physical changes: During the initial 15 years, Kushiyu went through minor cosmetic changes, but now its first major expansion and refurbishing has almost been completed. The original sushi bar of 17 seats now number 30, possibly making it the largest in Los Angeles. Previously there was table seating for 40. Now it's 65.

The flooring used to be ceramic tile and carpeting. Now it's slate tile and blond hardwood. And there are brand-new chairs.

There's a new glass facade, new ceiling and new kitchen equipment. Three huge paintings by Malibu-based, internationally renowned artist Hiro Yamagata, created especially for Kushiyu, grace the walls. Measuring 8 by 5 feet each with a leafy plant theme, they are all bright, vibrant additions to the overall decor.

Even background music has been carefully selected by owner Niikura from new-wave CDs by Osamu Kitajima, U.S.-based Japanese composer-musician.

Personnel changes: Biggest changes have come with current expansion. Now there are seven sushi chefs (previously five) and three kushiyaki chefs (previously two).

When chef Niikura opened his first little sushi bar, he and two other chefs prepared the food. One of those chefs, Taka Niikura (no relative), is still working for him, and actually began his association with Masayuki Niikura in Tokyo 27 years ago at Masayuki's Italian restaurant there.

Manager here for six years is Helio Kamogawa. And kitchen chef Jose Casas has worked worked for owner Niikura for 17 years.

Recommendable dishes: Tuna (only big-eye, never the less expensive yellowfin) in sushi or sashimi form, is exemplary. You can often get superb, buttery toro or yellowtail belly here. Chef Niikura minces Chilean seabass with potato, wraps it in thin pastalike potato and deep-fries it quickly for a delicious tidbit. He makes an arresting salmon tower of miso-sauced salmon sashimi layered between crispy wontons. Look for delectable, satisfying seafood pots and super-fluffy tempura. And asparagus with pork kushiyaki always hits the spot.

Service quality: Smiling and attentive. Perhaps a little stretched since expansion because of the unexpected incessant crowds.

Pricing: Chef Niikura remembers selling tuna sushi for $2.50 for two pieces around 17 years ago. Now it's $4.30. But his total fare, duplicated in at least one hip, new restaurant on the Westside, costs two to three times as much. So, in that respect, it's a bargain.

Wine list/service: Yes, there's a chardonnay, also a cabernet, by the glass. And a plum wine. But the beverages of choice here are sakes (five brands carried, chilled Kurosawa recommended) and Japanese beers (Kirin, Asahi and Sapporo).

Policies worth mentioning: Niikura and/or his manager, Helio Kamogawa, venture forth around 6:30 a.m. daily to downtown L.A. to purchase fresh and live seafood, fresh produce and live chickens.

Owner Niikura is passionate about food and is always coming up with creative new approaches and recipes. He makes his own special sauces for sashimi dishes here, especially noticeable with halibut and albacore.

Miscellaneous comments: Needed beer and wine license approval is pending for the expanded area of the restaurant only. It is expected to be finalized within a couple of weeks. There will also be new sun shades installed on the exterior of the glass front in two weeks.

Niikura has hired an acoustic consultant to reduce noisiness due to the redesign of the interior.

Our latest ratings: food: Four stars service: Two and one half stars.

CAPTION(S):

3 photos

Photo:

(1) Masayuki ``Nick'' Niikura, left, chef and owner of Kushiyu Restaurant in Tarzana, holds plates of sashimi and sushi; chef Gen Kimura displays a dish of kushiyaki, or grilled portions on skewers.

Michael Owen Baker/Staff Photographer

(2 -- 3) Diners can go for cooked (kushiyaki, left) or raw (sushi, above) dishes.