RESTAURANT REVISIT: AT BARONE'S, PI(E) R SQUARED.Byline: Larry Lipson Restaurant Critic When masked robbers held up Barone's at its brand-new location in Valley Glen last week, they probably didn't know they were in a local iconic i·con·ic adj. 1. Of, relating to, or having the character of an icon. 2. Having a conventional formulaic style. Used of certain memorial statues and busts. eating place, a restaurant owned by the same family for three generations. Its original Italian restaurant basically introduced Valley residents to pizza 61 years ago. But this family has been through a lot. In 1993, it faced a sit-in and picket by animal rights activists who were angry that they served veal. Co-owner Tom Monteleone Thomas "Tom" Monteleone (Hamilton, Ontario- March 1979 Hartford, Connecticut was a Canadian born mobster who was a shadowy suspect involved the 1978 Lufthansa heist. Tom is of no relation to the science fiction author of the same name. sued them and won. Monteleone, his father, Frank Monteleone (the only remaining original Barone's partner), and daughter Laura, represent three generations of ownership. He knows only too well that running a restaurant can be hazardous. Monteleone recalls the time he had to calm a knife-wielding staffer who was threatening to kill a fellow staffer over a matter of honor "A Matter of Honor" is the eighth episode of the second season of first broadcast on February 6, 1989. It is episode #34, production #134. The teleplay was written by Burton Armus, based on a story by Wanda M. Haigh, Gregory W. Amos and Burton Armus. It was directed by Rob Bowman. . But with the restaurant business in his blood, he wouldn't give it up for the world. Even though this latest incident at the relocated Barone's was, said the veteran restaurateur res·tau·ra·teur also res·tau·ran·teur n. The manager or owner of a restaurant. [French, from restaurer, to restore; see restaurant. , ``a hell of a welcoming committee into the neighborhood.'' Name: Barone's Famous Italian Restaurant. Address: 13726 Oxnard St., Valley Glen. Phone: (818) 782-6004. Hours: Open for lunch, dinner, snacks and cocktails from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Monday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to midnight Friday and Saturday, 11 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. Sunday. When we last reviewed: Oct. 31, 2003. How long in business: Since 1945. Menu/cuisine changes: Without compromising its past, Barone's has expanded its culinary direction from simple pizzeria to ristorante. On its current menu, caprese salad, Frank's special pizza (with peeled tomatoes and white anchovies anchovies a cause of diarrhea, vomiting, salivation, lacrimation, depression, miosis, polypnea, tachycardia, hypothermia in cats. ), barbecued chicken pizza, pizza Margherita and penne pasta with broccoli are marked as new items. Also, tournedos of filet mignon fi·let mi·gnon n. pl. fi·lets mi·gnons A small, round, very choice cut of beef from the loin. [French : filet, fillet + mignon, dainty.] Noun 1. topped with grilled tomato, asparagus asparagus, perennial garden vegetable (Asparagus officinalis) of the family Liliaceae (lily family), native to the E Mediterranean area and now naturalized over much of the world. , artichoke hearts and bearnaise sauce béar·naise sauce n. A sauce of butter and egg yolks that is flavored with vinegar, wine, shallots, tarragon, and chervil. [French béarnaise, feminine of béarnais, of Béarn.] have been added to the steak listings, now totaling eight. Decor/physical changes: In its new location in the former Hoppe's Old Heidelberg and Matterhorn Chef building, the same comfortable, traditional red-boothed interior has been held over, along with new light fixtures, new carpeting, a new bar and repainted ceilings. Also, there's been a complete kitchen renovation, and most of the plumbing has been redone re·done v. Past participle of redo. . Personnel changes: Only one person from the Matterhorn Chef (a runner) is currently on staff. Many are holdovers from Sherman Oaks. Recommendable dishes: Thin-crust rectangular pizzas, chicken marsala Chicken marsala is an Italian-American food dish using Marsala wine in the sauce. A typical Marsala sauce involves reducing the wine almost to a syrup with onions or shallots, then adding mushrooms and herbs. , various steaks, sand dabs almondine. Service quality: The busy, bustling staff is fairly attentive while getting used to new surroundings. Pricing: In the early '50s, a small cheese pizza here was a mere 50 cents; today it's $5.50. One can spend as little as $10 for a pasta meal (with soup or salad) or as much as $36 for a steak and shrimp dinner. Wine list/service: Reasonably priced list includes a pleasant Gabbiano 2004 chianti for $19. Corkage cork·age n. A charge exacted at a restaurant for every bottle of liquor served that was not bought on the premises. corkage Noun a charge made at a restaurant for serving wine bought elsewhere : $8 per bottle. Policies worth mentioning: Happy hour weekdays from 4 to 6 p.m. Children's menu (under 12) offers three meals with beverage and ice cream at $8.95 or $9.95. Miscellaneous comments: The square or rectangular pizza supposedly happened because large, round pizza pans weren't available in L.A. back when Barone's decided to bake them. It also made more sense at the time to use rectangular pans because more of them would fit into the oven. Our latest ratings: Food: Three stars - Wine: Two and one half stars - Service: Three stars Larry Lipson, (818) 713-3668 larry.lipson(at)dailynews.com CAPTION(S): 2 photos Photo: (1) It's all about the rectangular pan at Barone's -- now in Valley Glen -- where the pizza Margherita is loaded with fresh tomato, basil and cheese. (2) Barone's owner Tom Monteleone and head chef Jaime Arellano. Joel P. Lugavere/Special to the Daily News |
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