RESTAURANT REVISIT: A BISTRO SPANNING TWO GENERATIONS.

Byline: Larry Lipson Restaurant Critic

French-style bistros have come and gone over the years, but La Frite has not only survived on Ventura Boulevard's volatile restaurant row, it seems to be prospering with newfound popularity.

In fact, the kids who used to come in with their parents are now coming in with their kids.

And the kid of the owner is now the co-owner.

With one location midway along the Valley's busiest thoroughfare and another on its west extremity, La Frite thrives under the same ownership and direction since its inception 34 years ago, when it began with the title Yellowfingers.

Chef-owner Andre Ramillon was forced to change its signs six years after its debut because of a New York restaurant with the same name.

``Some people still call us Yellowfingers,'' said Ramillon.

La Frite, of course, is the French way of referring to that country's famous fried potato.

And who, especially today, wants a name that refers to people who smoke enough cigarettes to cause a permanent nicotine stain on their fingers?

The French fry reference makes much more sense, particularly when you taste those excellent pommes frites at La Frite.

Yep, you'll have to look far and wide to find better frites than these crispy shoestrings.

Larry Lipson, [phone]

[e-mail]

Name: La Frite

Address: 15013 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks and 22616 Ventura Blvd., Woodland Hills.

Phone: Sherman Oaks: [phone]; Woodland Hills: [phone].

Hours: Open for lunch, dinner and snacks from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. daily.

When we last reviewed: Oct. 3, 1991.

How long in business: The Sherman Oaks location opened on June 21, 1972, Woodland Hills a year later.

Menu/cuisine changes: It's actually surprising how many of the original items are still on the menu. La Frite's traditional bistro menu of quiches, omelettes, crepes, chicken frites, steak frites and the like gradually picked up a few pasta dishes, both the noodle types and ravioli with either lobster or portobello mushroom stuffing, also pizzas just like many of the bistros in France, especially in the southern regions, did. Recently, La Frite added crepes Suzette to its menu. And for the past 15 years it has maintained its very popular Friday bowl of bouillabaisse between October and April.

Decor/physical changes: Very little change has occurred in the looks of La Frite other than minor cosmetic improvements, though in 1999 the original bentwood chairs were replaced by authentic cafe chairs imported from France. The sidewalk seating in Sherman Oaks, probably the first of its kind on Ventura Boulevard, was finally allowed by the authorities in 1975 after much haggling.

Personnel changes: Owner Andre Ramillon has always been in charge of both the kitchens and the dining rooms, but for the past 17 years chef Jean Bellordre, previously the owner of the now defunct Le Cellier, has been his executive chef. He has several long-term employees, the longest being a cook, Javier Guttierez, who has worked at La Frite for 30 years. Alex Ramillon, 26-year-old son of owner Andre, is now a co-owner and host at the Sherman Oaks location.

Recommendable dishes: Soups and salads are always good here. (Bean and pea soup du jour and a hearts of palm salad were recent enjoyments). Escargots, baked brie with herbs, pate du jour, croque madame and monsieur sandwiches, quiche lorraine, chopped steak (various ways) and the Grand Marnier souffle are recommended.

Service quality: Varies. Some servers seem more attentive than others.

Pricing: Obviously much has changed in 34 years. Owner Ramillon says that when La Frite opened, his highest-priced dishes were $7 or $8. Now they're $22 and $22.50 for steak plates. But this is the kind of place where a salad or a crepe can be ordered anytime and nobody raises an eyebrow.

Wine list/service: Owner Ramillon has always kept a decent number of wines on hand, moving from primarily French at the outset to mostly Californian today. His wine by the glass program of changing labels indicates a careful selection process. Corkage is $7.

Policies worth mentioning: La Frite's same lengthy menu is used all day in true bistro fashion with special daily changes on a soup, a fish plate, a meat dish and a terrine-style appetizer.

Miscellaneous: Chef-owner Andre Ramillon also owned two L'Express brasseries (one in Sherman Oaks, the other near Universal City) in the late '80s until 1997.

Our latest ratings: food: Three stars - wine: Three stars - service: Two and one half stars.

CAPTION(S):

photo

Photo:

Half duck as served at La Frite. A new generation is enjoying the French-style bistro, which opened 34 years ago.

Joe Binoya/Special to the Daily News