RESTAURANT REPLICAS: FROM CHEFS' CREATIVE HANDS TO YOURS.

Byline: Natalie Haughton Food Editor

With mad cow disease grabbing headlines these days, some concerned restaurant diners are steering away from beef and ordering more fish.

``We had a 30 percent decline in beef sales initially (when the news hit), but it's now leveled off at about 15 percent,'' says Andre Guerrero, chef/owner of Max in Sherman Oaks.

``Although people are still eating beef (and it isn't bothering them), some are switching to fish selections in both appetizers and entrees,'' he adds.

Diners will find plenty of seafood options on restaurant menus around town. A few favorites include Stir-Fried Shrimp and Scallops and Crab Cakes with Corn Salad and Remoulade Sauce at Max along with Sizzling Mussels Mariniere at Vert in Hollywood (and often at Spago in Beverly Hills).

For cooks interested in sampling these ideas at home, give our copycat versions a try. We've tweaked and streamlined the creations with good results and a little assist - ingredient- and technique-wise - from Guerrero and Lee Hefter, executive chef/partner at Spago Beverly Hills and Vert, who designed the Vert menu with Wolfgang Puck.

``Everyone loves crab cakes,'' says Guerrero. Although his rendition is made with fresh lump crab meat, due to price constraints (fresh crab meat was $37.99 to $39.99 per pound at Gelson's), we settled for canned white lump crab meat ($4.79 to $5.19 per 4.5-ounce can) and were pleasantly surprised with the results.

Guerrero keeps the crab mixture simple, adding only mayonnaise, sauteed shallots, Dijon mustard and lemon juice. Use panko Japanese style bread crumbs (found in the Asian section of markets), as the restaurant does, for the coating. Guerrero pairs the cakes with corn salad and his take on classic remoulade sauce for delicious eating.

Stir-Fried Shrimp and Scallops, a colorful Max menu mainstay loaded with vegetables, dates back to the '80s (when Guerrero was at Alice's Restaurant on the Malibu Pier) and was resurrected due to requests from loyal followers. Guerrero's sauce is based on salted black beans that are soaked 15 minutes, rinsed and mashed slightly. For ease, we doctored up black bean sauce (be sure to use a Chinese version) with similar flavor results.

The dramatic Sizzling Mussels Mariniere, the top ranking appetizer on the menu at Vert, are served (about 50 per order) topped with a couple of rustic bread slices spread with a wonderful, velvety bearnaise sauce. Share them or make a meal of them.

The recipe is Hefter's interpretation of the classic dish moules mariniere, which he sampled over the years in his travels to France, Belgium and other European countries. ``Fries, crusty bread, fresh bearnaise and sizzling mussels are my way of a decadent way to enjoy mussels,'' says Hefter. ``I've always loved bread dipped in mussels. It is more exciting to eat the dipped bread than the mussels, and I love bearnaise on the bread.''

Depending on availability, Vert and Spago use small bouchot mussels from Maine (rope grown in the sea) or Prince Edward Island black mussels from Canada.

Although the mussel recipe requires a bit of preparation time for soaking and cleaning the shellfish and making the bearnaise, cooking time is short. However, because heat levels on most consumer stove-top burners don't get nearly as hot as those on commercial restaurant equipment, we've (unlike the restaurant) reduced the pan liquid over high heat before serving over the cooked mussels.

Last in today's roundup - to serve as a starter with seafood or meat entrees, or in a larger portion as an entree - is our replica version of the popular Ruth's Chris Steak House Chopped Salad. With its eclectic mix of 11 ingredients, it's a winner, says Tarzana reader Candi Stern, who often dines at the Woodland Hills location and requested a facsimile.

``It has refreshing flavor, '' notes chef Roger Ortiz. Since the salad is made to order, diners can customize it to suit personal tastes. Some request it without eggs or bacon while others like shrimp added.

Although the restaurant prepares a from-scratch Caesar-like dressing (without anchovies and cheese) zipped up with lemon juice and fresh basil, our quick version utilizes sour cream or mayonnaise.

Natalie Haughton, [phone]

natalie.haughton(at)dailynews.com

CHOPPED SALAD WITH LEMON BASIL DRESSING

8 cups packed julienne strips OR chopped iceberg lettuce 

1 cup packed julienned strips fresh spinach

1 cup packed julienned strips radicchio 

1/3 cup very thin slices red onions OR chopped red onions

1/2 cup chopped green olives

1 (6-ounce) package sliced fresh mushrooms (about 2 cups), rinsed and drained

4 hard-cooked eggs, chopped

1 (14-ounce) can chilled hearts of palms, rinsed, well-drained and sliced

1/2 pound apple bacon, chopped, fried until crisp and drained

1 cup crumbled blue cheese (4 ounces)

1/2 cup plain croutons

Lemon Basil Dressing

Cherry tomatoes, halved

Crispy fried onions (see Note)

In a very large bowl, combine lettuce, spinach, radicchio, red onions, green olives, mushrooms, eggs, hearts of palm and bacon. Toss well. Add crumbled blue cheese, croutons and about 1/2 to 3/4 of Lemon Basil Dressing. Toss until well-mixed.

To make stacked salads like those served at the restaurant, using a 4- inch diameter souffle or other dish, pack it full of salad and turn it upside down in the center of a dinner plate. Carefully top it with a second dish full of salad. Repeat making stacked salads on 3 more dinner plates. Garnish with cherry tomato halves and top salads with crispy fried onions. Makes 4 main dish servings.

LEMON BASIL DRESSING: In a medium bowl, combine 2 cups sour cream (OR use 1 cup sour cream and 1 cup mayonnaise), 1/4 cup chopped fresh basil and 4 to 5 tablespoons fresh lemon juice (1 lemon). Add seasoned salt and garlic pepper to taste. Mix well. Refrigerate until serving. Refrigerate any leftover dressing.

NOTE: The restaurant makes the onion rings, notes chef Roger Ortiz in Woodland Hills, by coating very thinly sliced red onion rings with flour, then deep-frying in hot oil. Substitute canned french-fried onion rings, if desired (granted, they're not the same) or skip the onion rings completely.

CRAB CAKES WITH CORN SALAD AND REMOULADE SAUCE

Unsalted butter

1 large shallot, chopped

3 (4.5-ounce) cans lump white crab meat, rinsed and well-drained (squeeze out any excess liquid)

1/3 cup mayonnaise

1 1/2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

4 teaspoons Dijon mustard

1 cup panko Japanese-style bread crumbs

Olive oil 

Remoulade Sauce

Corn Salad

In a medium skillet, heat 1 tablespoon butter until hot; add shallot and saute until soft, but not dark. In a medium bowl, combine crab meat, mayonnaise, lemon juice and mustard; mix well.

Shape into 12 (2-inch) patties. Put bread crumbs in a flat bowl. Gently dip both sides of crab cakes in crumbs to lightly coat. Let stand on a wax paper-lined baking sheet 1/2 hour for crumbs to adhere.

Heat 1 tablespoon butter and 1 tablespoon oil in a large skillet over high heat until hot. Coat both sides of crab cakes again with panko crumbs. Over high heat, saute 6 crab cakes at a time on both sides until golden brown. Remove crab cakes to a foil-lined jelly roll pan or low-sided baking pan.

Bake in a preheated 375-degree oven 8 to 10 minutes or until heated through. Serve 3 crab cakes on each of 4 plates with Remoulade Sauce and Corn Salad. Makes 4 appetizer servings.

REMOULADE SAUCE: In small bowl, combine 1/2 cup mayonnaise, 1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh parsley, 2 tablespoons finely chopped gherkins OR dill pickles, 2 tablespoons drained capers, 1 tablespoon finely chopped red or white onion and 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard. Add black pepper to taste. Mix well. Keep refrigerated until serving. Refrigerate any leftover sauce. Makes 3/4 cup.

CORN SALAD: In a large skillet, saute 1/2 cup diced white onions and 1/2 red bell pepper, diced, in 1 tablespoon canola OR olive oil over medium-high heat until soft. Add 2 cups frozen white corn, thawed, and cook a few minutes longer. Add 1 1/2 tablespoons seasoned rice vinegar, 2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro and black pepper to taste. Cool. Refrigerate until serving. Refrigerate any leftovers. Makes about 2 1/3 cups.

MUSSELS MARINIERE

2 pounds mussels, soaked in water, rinsed and drained, scrubbed and debearded

5 tablespoons unsalted butter

3 tablespoons shallots, minced

3 to 4 garlic cloves, pressed

1 sprig fresh rosemary

1 sprig fresh tarragon 

1/2 cup dry white wine

1/4 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf Italian parsley

2 toasted French OR Italian bread slices

Bearnaise Sauce

Place mussels in a large bowl and cover with cold water. Soak 1 hour, changing water once if mussels are very gritty. Rinse and drain. Discard any with broken shells or shells that are not tightly closed. Scrub mussels with a brush and pull or cut off beards. Rinse again.

In a 12-inch deep nonreactive skillet, heat 2 tablespoons butter over medium-high heat until melted. Add shallots and garlic. Cook, stirring over high heat, 2 to 3 minutes, until soft. Add rosemary, tarragon, mussels, wine and remaining 3 tablespoons butter. Cover and heat to boiling over high heat. Reduce heat to medium and steam 3 to 4 minutes or until shells open. With a slotted spoon, transfer mussels to a large serving pan or dish; discard any unopened shells.

Reduce liquid in skillet slightly by cooking, uncovered, over high heat 5 to 6 minutes. Stir in parsley and ladle over mussels. Top with bread slices spread with warm Bearnaise Sauce. Makes 2 or more servings.

BEARNAISE SAUCE: In a small saucepan, combine 3 tablespoons EACH white wine and tarragon OR champagne vinegar, 1 tablespoon chopped fresh tarragon and 1 tablespoon minced shallots. Cover over high heat until reduced in half. Cool to room temperature. In a small food processor, combine 3 egg yolks and reduced vinegar mixture. Process until well-blended. In 2 batches, add 6 tablespoons (3/4 stick) unsalted butter, melted in microwave oven until very hot and bubbly, and process until smooth. If mixture is not thick enough, turn mixture into a saucepan, add 1 tablespoon chopped fresh tarragon and place over VERY LOW HEAT. Whisk constantly until sauce thickens (do not let it curdle). Serve warm. Makes 3/4 cup sauce.

STIR-FRIED SHRIMP AND SCALLOPS

(On the cover)

5 tablespoons canola OR vegetable oil

1/2 pound frozen uncooked jumbo shrimp, thawed, shelled and deveined

1/2 pound jumbo (New England) scallops, thawed if frozen

1 white OR yellow onion, cut into julienne strips

4 green onions, chopped

4 cups packed broccoli florets, microwaved covered with plastic wrap 1 1/2 minutes to blanch 

1 red bell pepper, cut into julienne strips

2 cups fresh snow peas (about 6 ounces), ends trimmed

2 to 4 cloves garlic, pressed

1 teaspoon grated OR minced fresh ginger (OR more to taste)

1 tablespoon reduced sodium soy sauce

2 tablespoons oyster sauce

2 tablespoons sherry wine

3/4 teaspoon sugar

Few dashes red pepper flakes

3/4 cup water

1 tablespoon bottled black bean with garlic sauce OR black bean sauce (see Note)

1 tablespoon cornstarch mixed with 2 tablespoons cold water

In a 12-inch nonstick wok or skillet, heat 1 tablespoon oil until hot over high heat. Add shrimp and stir-fry over high heat until shrimp turn pink on both sides, about 1 to 2 minutes. Remove to a plate. Heat another tablespoon of oil in the same wok or skillet, add scallops and sear over high heat on both sides until almost cooked through, about 2 to 4 minutes, depending on thickness. Remove to plate with shrimp.

In same wok, heat 2 tablespoons oil over high heat. Add onions, broccoli, red pepper strips and snow peas. Stir-fry until crisp tender, 3 to 5 minutes. Remove to another plate.

In same wok, heat remaining 1 tablespoon oil until hot. Add garlic and ginger and saute about 1 minute, stirring, until soft. Add soy sauce, oyster sauce, sherry wine, sugar, red pepper flakes, water and black bean sauce; heat to boiling. Boil 1 minute. Whisk in cornstarch mixture and cook, whisking constantly, until mixture boils, clears and thickens.

Stir in shrimp, scallops and vegetables. Heat to boiling over high heat. Cook 1 minute. Serve over pan-fried egg noodles (purchase the noodles - cooked - in refrigerated section of markets and simply pan-fry them in a little hot oil to crisp them) as the restaurant does, or hot steamed rice. Makes 4 servings.

NOTE: In place of black bean sauce, you can use 1 tablespoon salted black beans (available in cans at Asian markets), soaked, rinsed well , drained and partially mashed. Be aware that this sauce is salty due to the black beans/black bean sauce; do not add additional salt.

CAPTION(S):

4 photos

Photo:

(1 -- cover -- color) What's on YOUR menu?

Restaurant Replicas liven up at-home dining

(2 -- color) CHOPPED SALAD WITH LEMON BASIL DRESSING

(3 -- color) CRAB CAKES WITH CORN SALAD AND REMOULADE SAUCE

(4 -- color) MUSSELS MARINIERE

Gus Ruelas/Staff Photographer