QUIET ADVANTAGES COME WITH TAHOE'S OFF-SEASON.

Byline: Stan Wawer San Gabriel Valley Tribune

Lake Tahoe is swarming with vacationers in the summer, and overrun with skiers in the winter. It has little or no spring, depending on the snowfall. Last winter, El Nino dumped a ton of snow on the area, allowing euphoric skiers and snowboarders to do their thing well into May.

Fall in Lake Tahoe, however, offers all the summertime activities without the crowds.

Only about 500 miles away, Lake Tahoe is flat-out gorgeous. Surrounded by mountains, including monolithic Mount Tallac, and pine trees, the lake is 6,223 feet above sea level.

``The lake never freezes because of its depth (about 1,645 feet at its deepest point) and its size (12 miles by 22 miles),'' said Matt Bishop, the 24-year-old manager of the Camp Richardson Marina.

Richardson has been working at Camp Richardson Resort since he was 12 years old.

``With the amount of water in Lake Tahoe, you can cover the entire flat area of the state with 14 inches of water,'' Matt said with unmistakable pride.

Located off Highway 89 near Emerald Bay, Camp Richardson Resort is open all year round and offers many outdoor activities. It includes a historic hotel, cabins, ice cream parlor and chocolate factory. The sports center rents bicycles and mountain climbing equipment.

``I always encourage fall for any outdoor activities,'' said John Drum, manager of the mountain sports center. ``The crowds are gone, the weather is good, the aspens are changing, and the salmon are running.''

In 1924, Capt. Alonzo Richardson bought the property and began to build cabins and a lakefront pavilion. He built the long wharf, which is now the resort pier, and operated a launch and other water services for guests.

Today, Camp Richardson is operated under special-use permit from the U.S. Forest Service. The hotel and the resort have been nominated for the National Register of Historic Places.

The camp holds the Kokanee Salmon Festival Oct. 3 at Taylor Creek. Highlights include a trip to the newly completed Lake Tahoe Stream Profile Chamber at the Forest Service Visitor Center on Taylor Creek.

The fourth annual Oktoberfest takes place Oct. 3-4. The festival includes craft booths, jugglers, a pumpkin patch, hay rides, face painting, contests and the traditional Oktoberfest Beer Garden.

The third annual Lake Tahoe Marathon is scheduled for Oct. 11, featuring several runs for the entire family. The event starts in Tahoe City and winds along the water's edge to Camp Richardson.

A must visit to the south shore is a tour of Vikingsholm Castle in beautiful Emerald Bay. The day my wife and I toured, our guide was Helen Smith, who spent many of her first 14 summers at the castle. Her parents were friends of Lora Moore Knight, who built Vikingsholm in 1929 at a cost of $125,000.

Emerald Bay reminded Knight of a Scandinavian fiord, thus the home's name. The home, designed by her son-in-law, took only five months to build.

Knight had helped finance Charles Lindbergh's trans-Atlantic flight in 1927. Lindbergh became a regular visitor to Vikingsholm.

Carol Spain, of the Tahoe Tallac Historic Association, gave us a tour of the Valhalla Estates on the other side of Camp Richardson. The area includes the captivating Heller Estate, the Pope Estate and the Baldwin Estate, home to Lucky Baldwin's daughter.

The Valhalla Christmas Faire is held each November (Nov. 20-22 this year) in the Heller Estate's grand hall, with its incredible stone fireplace taking up the entire south wall from floor to ceiling.

When the association organized about 20 years ago, the area was falling apart. It is various stages of restoration.

The Boat House has been converted into a beautiful theater. ``A grant from Hewlett-Packard helped complete the 196-seat theater,'' Spain said. ``It took us well over 15 years to complete the renovation for the theater.''

Hiking at Heavenly is another way to spend a day in this magnificent setting. Lake Tahoe's wilderness is the most heavily used wilderness in the United States.

Heavenly rises to 8,200 feet, so it helps to be in good shape when hiking its trails. I was winded by the time we reached 8,500 feet, but our Swedish guide, Roger Bostron from Stockholm, reassured me that I wasn't the only person breathing heavily.

Guided hikes are offered at 11 a.m. and 1 p.m. daily through mid-October. The gondola ride up is $12 for adults and well worth the trip.

Lake Tahoe encompasses nearly 300 miles of trails winding past scenery that rivals any of the national parks. A wilderness permit is required.

Golf has become a big sport in Lake Tahoe. Five courses on the South Shore and others within a half-hour drive allow ample opportunity to sample this burgeoning golf venue.

The Dixie II, one of two paddlewheelers on the lake (the other is the Tahoe Queen), leaves from Zephyr Cove Marina, for several fun cruises daily. The champagne brunch cruise continues through November, the historic Glenbrook Bay breakfast tour runs through October and the Emerald Bay sightseeing cruise and the sunset dinner dance cruise go year round. For more information, call [phone].

IF YOU GO

Where to stay

Embassy Suites Resort, 4130 Lake Tahoe Blvd., South Lake Tahoe, [phone]. Large suites from $139 to $179. Full complimentary breakfast. Golf packages through Oct. 31.

Camp Richardson Resort, South Lake Tahoe, [phone]. Cabins, lodge, beachside inn, duplex and rustic ski cabins. Prices change seasonally.

Harrah's Hotel & Casino, Lake Tahoe Boulevard at Stateline, [phone]. Large rooms from $119 to $179.

Harvey's Resort Hotel, Lake Tahoe Boulevard at Stateline, [phone]. Rooms from $99 to $225 a night.

For more information, call the Lake Tahoe Visitors Authority at [phone]. Its reservation service covers 85 properties on the South Shore.

- Stan Wawer

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