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Q&A.


Q: We have a small (750 sq feet) house that is livable liv·a·ble also live·a·ble  
adj.
1. Suitable to live in; habitable: a livable dwelling.

2. Possible to bear; endurable: livable trials and tribulations.
 but needs work. We are looking to increase our living space. Should we build an addition onto the existing structure or plan to construct a new separate home? What are the pros and cons pros and cons
Noun, pl

the advantages and disadvantages of a situation [Latin pro for + con(tra) against]
 of each option?

A: There is nothing wrong with building a new home, but some considerations need to be assessed. New construction requires an investment and it is not getting less expensive; do you have that capability? A new home will give you the opportunity to design what you want. What will you do with the old home? Selling it will help fund the new home, but where will you live during construction? Renting it will provide income and, at the moment, seems to be a popular way to help secure your future. Who will design your home, an architect or draftsperson or a design/build construction company? How will you choose a builder, and are they familiar with sustainable construction, which not only looks at the economic bottom line but also the environmental/ health and social bottom line. Building a new home is a large undertaking. On the upside, you get what you want (read 'can afford') and have a brand new home that fits your needs.

Expanding your existing home presents different considerations. Additions have less impact on the environment. The site already has a house on it; no new land is being developed. A smaller investment is needed; maybe you don't need a bank. Additions increase the value of your home and you have a place to live during construction. If going to a lender, you can roll in the cost of remodeling remodeling /re·mod·el·ing/ (re-mod´el-ing) reorganization or renovation of an old structure.

bone remodeling
 the existing home during construction.

Other considerations related to the question are the following: do you want to move away from the neighborhood and friends? Will children have to change schools or leave their friends? Do you need a refreshing change in your life? Building new or adding on deserves in-depth study and will ultimately boil down to your personal needs. You don't have to do it alone, either; ask friends and family and talk to professionals who are involved with each choice. Take your time, weigh every option, and you are sure to be happy with your choice.

Marcus Renner is chair of the Western NC Green Building Council, he teaches sustainable construction classes at ASU ASU Arizona State University (Tempe, AZ)
ASU Appalachian State University
ASU Arkansas State University
ASU Angelo State University
ASU Alabama State University
ASU Australian Services Union
, and during the day he works for Appropriate Building Solutions, Inc, an area sustainable construction company. He can be reached at marcus@abuildingsolution.com or 828-350-0451.

Q: I want to buy a window unit air conditioner. What are the pros and cons, what should I look for, and how can I get the right size for my room?

A: For those of us that don't have central air-conditioning, a window-unit may seem like an appealing option during the warmer summer months. There are a few things that you should know about before making your purchase, and a few things that will help you squeeze the most comfort from it, once installed.

First, you must decide how much space you're going to cool with this window-unit. If you're going to try to cool your entire house with a window unit, it may be in your best interest to use two units, since they will provide a more efficient distribution of air to all spaces.

See the chart in the next column to correctly "size" your unit.

Do not buy a larger unit than you really need, as this will decrease the air conditioner's effectiveness at removing moisture from the living space and decrease operating efficiency. Moisture plays a large role in the comfort of the space, so ... Bigger isn't always better!

The technology of an air conditioner is the same as your refrigerator or a dehumidifier Dehumidifier

Equipment designed to reduce the amount of water vapor in the atmosphere. There are three methods by which water vapor may be removed: (1) the use of sorbent materials, (2) cooling to the required dew point, and (3) compression with aftercooling.
. An evaporator evaporator

Industrial apparatus for converting liquid into gas or vapour. The single-effect evaporator consists of a container or surface and a heating unit; the multiple-effect evaporator uses the vapour produced in one unit to heat a succeeding unit.
 coil cools the interior (in this case the room) and the condenser condenser

Device for reducing a gas or vapour to a liquid. Condensers are used in power plants to condense exhaust steam from turbines and in refrigeration plants to condense refrigerant vapours, such as ammonia and Freons.
 coil releases the heat outdoors. Refrigerant re·frig·er·ant
adj.
1. Cooling or freezing; refrigerating.

2. Reducing fever.

n.
1. A substance, such as air, ammonia, water, or carbon dioxide, used to provide cooling either as the working substance of
 is moved by a pump through tubes between the two coils to transfer the heat. A fan blows the interior air over coils, which removes the heat from the air, and then returns this same air into the room.

When the refrigerant takes this heat to the outdoor-side of the air conditioner, it wants to release the heat to the outdoors. Therefore, the cooler the surroundings, the better. If possible, put the air conditioner in a window that faces north or is shaded. Keeping the air conditioner out of direct sunlight improves its efficiency.

Ceiling fans (or other fans) can be used to move air around within your home. This will help spread the cooled air as well as provide evaporative cooling Evaporative cooling is a physical phenomenon in which evaporation of a liquid, typically into surrounding air, cools an object or a liquid in contact with it. Latent heat describes the amount of heat that is needed to evaporate the liquid; this heat comes from the liquid itself and  against your body (evaporating your body's perspiration perspiration: see sweat.
perspiration

Fluid given off by the skin as vapour by simple evaporation or as sweat actively secreted from sweat glands to evaporate and cool the body.
).

As far as efficiency goes, the more you spend upfront, the more you save over the long-haul. So, invest a few more dollars; it'll pay you back quickly. The efficiency of window units is typically described with an EER EER - An extended entity-relationship model.  Rating. Anything above ten is considered pretty efficient these days.

Experiment a bit to determine the highest temperature setting at which you can be comfortable. Try 78 degrees F to start. Every degree higher will save about four percent in operating costs operating costs nplgastos mpl operacionales .

If you have a whole-house fan, you can save substantially on your electric bill by using the fan at night when weather conditions permit: usually when the outside temperature falls below 78 degrees F, and the humidity is not oppressive. But early in the morning, before the temperature begins to rise, turn off the fan and close the windows to capture the cool air. With this charge of cool air, the house can "coast" without the air conditioner until late morning or early afternoon. The whole-house fan should be air-sealed and insulated in·su·late  
tr.v. in·su·lat·ed, in·su·lat·ing, in·su·lates
1. To cause to be in a detached or isolated position. See Synonyms at isolate.

2.
 if it is not used during the air conditioning air conditioning, mechanical process for controlling the humidity, temperature, cleanliness, and circulation of air in buildings and rooms. Indoor air is conditioned and regulated to maintain the temperature-humidity ratio that is most comfortable and healthful.  season, and air-sealed/ insulated during the winter to prevent the loss of warm air, which likes to rise through holes in the top of your house.

Window units, if left in place during the winter, should be wrapped on the inside, and weather-stripping should be used to block air infiltration infiltration /in·fil·tra·tion/ (in?fil-tra´shun)
1. the pathological diffusion or accumulation in a tissue or cells of substances not normal to it or in amounts in excess of the normal.

2. infiltrate (2).
 around the unit (this applies to winter and summer). If wrapped on the outside, warm moist air from inside the home can condense con·dense  
v. con·densed, con·dens·ing, con·dens·es

v.tr.
1. To reduce the volume or compass of.

2. To make more concise; abridge or shorten.

3. Physics
a.
 and freeze inside the unit, possibly causing damage to the system. Happy shopping ... and stay cool!

Isaac Savage is president of Home Energy Partners, a Building Performance Contracting firm that is located in Asheville, NC. He can be reached at 828 350-1155 or on the web at www.HomeEnergyPartners.com.

Send in your sustainable building and healthy home questions to healthyhome@newlifejournal.com.
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Title Annotation:the healthy home
Publication:New Life Journal
Geographic Code:1USA
Date:Aug 1, 2005
Words:1101
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