Provencal Christmas.

Byline: Jim Boyd The Register-Guard

Reveillon (from the verb "to awaken') is the French name for a Christmas Eve supper or a New Year's Eve party, and it's a tradition that Marche restaurant has introduced to Eugene.

Restaurateur Stephanie Pearl Kimmel isn't the sort of person to say "Bah, humbug!" at Christmastime. In fact, until three Christmases ago, she closed whatever restaurant she was operating just after lunch on Christmas Eve so employees could get ready for their own Christmas celebrations.

But when she opened Marche, her French-inspired restaurant in the Fifth Street Public Market, she started getting requests from customers for a Christmas Eve meal and decided to fulfill that need.

"So I started thinking about ways to make it fun and festive," she said. "That's how we came up with the idea of doing a reveillon dinner in the style of Provence."

Traditionally served after Christmas midnight Mass, the reveillon meal can consist of as many as 15 courses and last all night, author Corinne Madden Ross says in the book "Christmas in France."

Kimmel and her son-in-law, executive chef Rocky Maselli, did six courses for Marche's first reveillon on Christmas Eve 2001. They found, however, that families with children preferred fewer courses and more choices for the main course.

So the menu has evolved into a four-course meal, with recipes for three of this year's dishes listed here for those who might like to try making their own reveillon meal at home.

The first course at Marche this year will be an hors d'oeuvres plate with bites of brandade (salt cod puree) in puff pastry, an anchovy-flavored celery salad and slices of toasted baguette spread with black and green styles of tapenade.

A salad of mesclun greens, goat cheese and blood oranges, dressed with Champagne vinaigrette, will follow.

The main course is a choice of roast chicken, a bouillabaisse of shellfish and rockfish, or a vegetarian cannelloni with wild mushrooms and Oregon truffles.

Dessert is Marche's version of Les Treize Desserts de Noel, the traditional 13 desserts representing Christ and the 12 apostles.

Placed in individual bowls or on a single tray but always served together, the 13 desserts are a collection of nuts and dried fruits, fresh winter fruits, white and black nougat, quince jam and, often, pompe a l'huile (a brioche made with olive oil and flavored with orange blossom water or lemon peel).

Four represent religious orders who begged for food: almonds for the Carmelites, figs for the Franciscans, raisins for the Dominicans and walnuts for the Augustines.

Today, creating its own tradition, Marche serves a sampler plate of four desserts made with nuts and fruits as the ingredients.

Here in the United States, reveillon suppers are carried to an extreme by restaurants in New Orleans. As a way of attracting tourists, New Orleans several years ago began a one-month celebration in December called Christmas New Orleans Style. Restaurants there offer four- or five-course fixed-price reveillon dinners nightly, not just on Christmas Eve.

In Provence, the Christmas season begins on Dec. 4, the day of Saint Barbe. Wheat and lentil seeds are sown in dishes and, after they sprout, are used as table decorations and as part of the creche, the Christmas crib.

Local legend has it that Jesus was born in Provence and the figurines made in Provence for the manger scene include not only Mary, Joseph and the baby Jesus, but also villagers in period dress.

Traditionally, a ceremonial lighting of the hearth fire occurs in homes before the feasting begins on Christmas Eve.

The table is laid with three white cloths layered over each other and three white candles, symbolizing the Holy Trinity. A Lenten-style meal called "le gros souper" (big meal) is eaten before midnight Mass and a second meal follows the service.

Originally a simple dinner, the big meal before Mass remains meat-free, and traditionally consists of seven courses representing the seven sorrows of the Virgin Mother. The 13 desserts are served at the end of the meal and nibbled on when the family returns from church.

"After midnight Mass on Christmas Eve, people gather in their homes or in restaurants for a meal, Le Reveillon," the Web site riviera.angloinfo.com says. "This was originally a simple snack, but over the centuries, it has grown in lavishness, although in more recent times, it is often eaten on Christmas Day.

"The menu varies from region to region, but commonly served are specially prepared walnut, orange and peach flavored aperitifs, followed by a variety of roasts and game, accompanied by Provencal wines. This is followed with fruit paste, local chocolates and liqueurs, and the traditional buche de noel, a log-shaped rolled sponge cake, with a creamy filling and chocolate coating."

Marche's menu is adapted from the meal that's served before Mass in Provence, not the feast that may follow during the hours before dawn. Serving hours begin at 5 p.m. on Christmas Eve.

No Scrooge, Kimmel treats her staff to their own reveillon dinner when the restaurant closes at 9:30 p.m.

Her recipes follow:

Tapenade

(Provencal Olive Paste)

This traditional condiment is wonderful as a spread for croutes, a dip for vegetables, or as an accompaniment to grilled meats.

1/2 cup imported black or green Mediterranean olives, pitted

1 1/2 tablespoons capers 

1 salt-cured anchovy, rinsed, filleted

1 clove garlic

1 teaspoon lemon juice

2 tablespoons chopped Italian parsley

4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

Place olives, capers, anchovy, garlic, lemon juice and parsley in the work bowl of a food processor. Pulse for a few seconds to chop the ingredients but don't allow it to blend to a totally smooth paste. Put into a bowl and stir in the olive oil until combined. Adjust seasoning.

This sauce will keep well for up to two weeks.

Makes about 1 cup.

Northwest Bouillabasse With Saffron Aioli and Croutes

2 medium leeks (white part only), cut into julienne strips

2 ounces fennel bulb, cut into thin slivers lengthwise (about 1/2 cup)

6 ounces (about 1 1/2 cups) assorted julienned vegetables, depending on the season (carrots, celery, turnips for winter)

8 cups Fish Fumet (recipe follows) or 8 cups clam juice

2 pounds rock fish, cod or red snapper fillet, cut into 8 portions

1 pound mussels and/or clams in the shell (add a crab leg to each bowl to make it extra special)

Pinch saffron

1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon lemon juice

2 tablespoons chopped parsley

Salt and pepper to taste

8 toasted French bread croutes (slice a French bread baguette on the diagonal for a croute about 3 inches long, brush with olive oil or butter and toast until golden)

8 tablespoons Saffron Aioli (recipe follows, or dissolve a little saffron in a bit of warm water and add to a good quality mayonnaise like Best Foods to which you've added a touch of finely minced garlic)

Blanch vegetables in water until just al dente and set aside.

Bring fish fumet to a boil. Turn the heat down to a simmer and add the seafood and vegetables. Poach fish until just done and the mussels and clams have opened, about 5 to 10 minutes depending on the thickness of the fish.

Remove the fish from the pot and arrange in large flat soup bowls.

Finish broth with saffron, lemon juice, parsley, salt and pepper, and ladle over fish.

Garnish with the shellfish, toasted French bread croutes and a generous teaspoon of Saffron Aioli.

Serves 8.

Fish Fumet

2 pounds white fish bones (ask your seafood store for parts for stock - halibut carcasses are perfect)

1 onion

1 leek 

1 celery rib

4 large cloves garlic

3 ounces fennel bulb

1 cup white wine

Strip of orange peel

1/2 teaspoon coriander seeds

1/2 teaspoon fennel seeds

5 black peppercorns

1 sprig fresh thyme

Rinse fish bones under cold running water. Chop into small, manageable pieces.

Peel or trim onion, leek, celery, garlic and fennel. Chop into small dice.

In a large saucepan, combine vegetables, wine, orange peel, spices and thyme. Bring to a simmer, cover and cook over low heat for 8 to 10 minutes.

Add fish bones and just enough cold water to cover bones.

Bring to a boil, reduce heat to a simmer and cook for 20 minutes. Be sure to skim any impurities that rise to the surface.

Strain through a fine sieve and then strain again through cheesecloth to obtain a clear stock.

Makes about 12 cups, and freezes well.

Saffron Aioli

2 egg yolks

1/4 cup virgin olive oil

1/4 cup vegetable oil

Pinch of saffron threads dissolved in a little warm water to cover

2 cloves garlic, finely minced

Salt and black pepper

Lemon juice (optional)

Put the egg yolks in a mixer fitted with a whisk and mix on low speed to blend. Add the saffron and garlic. Combine the oils and add in a thin and steady stream until the mixture becomes emulsified and mayonnaise consistency is achieved. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Add a little lemon juice if necessary to brighten flavors.

Dried Fruit Tart

1/2 cup dried apricots

1/2 cup prunes

1/4 cup currants

1/2 cup golden raisins

1/4 cup dried cherries

2 tablespoons brandy (optional)

1/2 cup dried figs

Juice of 1 medium orange

1/2 teaspoon cinnamon

1/4 teaspoon nutmeg

1/4 teaspoon cloves

1/2 cup sugar

1 pre-baked 9-inch tart shell (recipe follows)

Pour boiling water over apricots and prunes, then drain. Place the drained apricots and prunes in a bowl and cover with cold water. Let stand for 3 hours. Drain, reserving liquid. Cut soaked fruit in small pieces, then place in saucepan with the soaking water and simmer until about 1/3 cup liquid remains. Remove from heat.

While apricots and prunes are soaking, toss currants, raisins and cherries in brandy if desired and allow to macerate.

Preheat oven to 400 degrees.

Add the mixture of currants, raisins and cherries to the fruit in the saucepan along with the figs, orange juice, spices and sugar. Stir to combine well.

Cook over medium heat for a minute or two to meld flavors and reduce the liquid.

Spread filling in a pre-baked tart shell and bake for 30 minutes, or until the crust is golden brown. Cool and serve with whipped cream or vanilla or eggnog ice cream.

Short Crust Pastry

"Our favorite pastry dough recipe for fruit tarts is this one by Lindsey Shere and comes from the 'Chez Panisse Desserts' cookbook." - Stephanie Pearl Kimmel

Makes one 9-inch pastry shell:

1 cup flour

1 tablespoon sugar

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon grated lemon peel

1/2 cup unsalted butter, not too cold

1 tablespoon water

1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

Mix the flour, sugar, salt and lemon peel. If you have only salted butter on hand, omit the salt.

Cut the butter into 1/2 -inch slices and work into the flour mixture with your hands or a pastry blender until the butter is in mostly cornmeal size pieces and the mixture is beginning to hold together - the softer your butter is, the faster this will happen. You can make this pastry with butter that is quite soft, as it might be in the summer, as long as you don't work it too much.

Combine the water and vanilla and work into the flour-butter mixture just until the pastry is blended and will hold together if you press it. Gather it into a ball and wrap it in plastic. Let it rest for 30 minutes so the flour will absorb the moisture more completely.

At this point, you can wrap the pastry in foil and freeze it for up to a month.

Press the pastry into a 9-inch tart pan, making sure that you have an even layer of thickness over the bottom and the sides. If the thickness is uneven, some parts will bake too much before other parts are cooked.

Do not use a black tart pan; the shell may burn if you do.

Before baking, set the shell in the freezer for 30 minutes or overnight, wrapped in foil. You won't need to fill the shell with beans before baking: this pastry doesn't shrink much.

Bake in a preheated, 375-degree oven for about 25 minutes, or until the shell is light golden brown and baked all the way through.

CAPTION(S):

Reveillon dishes (left to right) include a dried-fruit tart, tapenade or whole green and black olives on French bread, and chocolate or almond nougat. Kevin Clark / The Register-Guard A bouillabaisse of shellfish and rockfish will be one of the main courses offered at Marche restaurant in Eugene this Christmas Eve.