Portland: confluence and evolution in Portland, Oregon.

"Well Portland Oregon and sloe gin fizz / If that ain't love then tell
me what is"-Loretta Lynn and Jack White, "Portland Oregon" (2004)

Portland is a town where tough pioneer spirits brush up against liberal political sensibilities, where the forest and the mountains seem just on the cusp of overtaking the highways and high rises, where idealism and ambition fuse with the stately synergy of the Columbia and Willamette Rivers.

Also, it's possible to have a really good time there.

Long considered the hub of craft brewing in the US, Portland hosts a different beer festival for each of the four seasons of the year. The North by Northwest music showcase comes to town every September. And then there's the Acropolis, under whose roof a visitor can enjoy both a surprisingly good S6 steak and four stages of what we'll call interpretive dancing.

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Portland's dining scene is in a period of unprecedented growth and change. New restaurants open seemingly every day, and more often than not they're being helmed by men and women just old enough to remember the Reagan administration. While passing several pleasurable and well-fed days and nights in Portland, Art Culinaire visited three of the city's best chefs: Scott Dolich, of the diminutive Park Kitchen, whose vibrant "neighborhood" cooking has put him on a national stage; John Eisenhart, he of the refined sensibility and intellectual curiosity that have breathed new life into Pazzo; and clarklewis' Morgan Brownlow, a culinary journeyman-turned-orange t-shirted sorcerer.

COLLECTIVE CONSCIOUS

Morgan Brownlow

clarklewis

Portland, OR

IF IT'S A WEDNESDAY MORNING, you'll probably find Morgan Brownlow, clad in the orange t-shirt that is the clarklewis kitchen uniform, waiting to take delivery of a recently butchered hog.

"I don't believe in cyrovac packages," says the chef, who buys his pigs from nearby Laughing Stock Farms. "I use the whole animal, and that's the way I structure my menu, to sell whatever cuts we have. It's a bigger challenge, to use everything, and I like that." Brownlow credits chef Paul Bertolli with teaching him what he knows about butchering and curing meat, although he laments, "Right now, I don't have the cellar space to do salami."

A native of Portland, Brownlow decamped for Northern California in 1991 because, as he saw it, "Portland was stuck behind the times as far as food and organics, and even the restaurant scene itself. It was kind of old-school, stuck in that starch-vegetable-protein pattern." He cooked with Bertolli at Olivetto in Oakland; at Rubicon, Stars and Cypress Club in San Francisco; and at the Crescent Park Grill in Palo Alto. Upon his return to Portland three years ago, he joined the youthful, feelgood quasi-collective known as Ripe, a catering and restaurant group of which clarklewis is the crown jewel. Ripe was founded in 2000 by husband and wife team Michael and Naomi Hebberoy, veteran restaurant cooks who sought to avoid the impersonality and stress of professional kitchens by starting their own underground supper club. In time, their offerings grew from 22-person meals served in the Hebberoys' living room to the current incarnation at Portland's Gotham Building, where, under the name Family Supper, dinner is served seven nights a week, with one seating, no menu options, and family-style service. Brownlow and the Hebberoys opened clarklewis in February 2004, and were almost immediately named one of the Wall Street Journal's "ten most notable restaurants of 2004." clarklewis also earned a place on Gourmet's "top restaurants of 2004" list, and the "restaurant of the year" designation from the Oregonian. March 2005 saw the opening of the Gotham Building Tavern, the group's latest venture, featuring gastropub-meets-trattoria cuisine as created by Naomi and co-chef Tommy Habetz.

Brownlow describes his attention-grabbing food at clarklewis as "clean and dirty", and explains, "It's clean in flavor and approach, and focused. I don't overdo flavors or put too many flavors together at once. And it's dirty in that it's rustic, peasant food. It's soulful old Italian cooking, which is in its own way deep and complex." He strives to use organic products whenever possible, but does have to allow for some practicalities.

"Organic lemons cost about three times as much as conventionally grown lemons, and I go through enough lemons in a week that it's just not possible to use organic. But my eggs come from a local farm that raises free-pastured chickens, we use local cheeses and organic produce galore," he says. Brownlow originally intended to enroll at the Culinary Institute of America, but eventually found a series of informal apprenticeships with chefs in Northern California more to his liking. He explains, "I'm more of a hands-on type learner. Being exposed to techniques and what really goes on in a working kitchen--I was more into that than classical training. I've worked for a lot of good people who have mentored me."

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Now that he's the man in charge, Brownlow takes an unconventional approach to his kitchen brigade, in which all cooks are considered equal. "Most of my guys have already been chefs and sous chefs in other kitchens," he says. "So I don't call them cooks--we're all chefs, creating food together."

FROM PORTER TO PORTLAND (BY WAY OF THE PARK)

Scott Dolich

Park Kitchen

Portland, OR

FROM THE KITCHEN OF HIS RESTAURANT IN PORTLAND'S PARK-LINED Pearl District, Scott Dolich can confidently coax subtly brilliant flavors from Oregon halibut, fresh cherries and fava beans, but he's just as happy making hot dogs.

"I love hot dogs, and I wanted Park Kitchen to be a place where I could cook what I love to eat," says the New York native. "Silly as that sounds, many chefs don't get to do that. Plus, I love the craft of charcuterie. I have two young kids, and I knew that my friends would bring their kids in for lunch, and what kid doesn't like hot dogs?" Dolich makes his franks from pork and beef, and serves them on brioche buns baked by pastry chef and chef de cuisine Ellen Jackson, with house-made ketchup alongside.

Dolich was a student at Duke University, pursuing a dual degree in biology and history, when he began to work part-time as a butcher. He'd take home scraps at the end of his shifts and cook them into something delicious, eventually attracting enough dinner guests to make him feel like he was running his own restaurant. He realized that he could--and wanted to--cook for a living, so after earning his bachelor's degree in 1990 and working as a dishwasher and prep cook for a year, he enrolled at the Culinary Institute of America. His first job out of school was as a kitchen porter at Lark Creek Inn in Larkspur, CA.

"At that point in time, Brad Ogden was fanatical about sourcing local produce. He had about two dozen farms on his source list," says Dolich. "My biggest challenges were finding space for all the produce that arrived, being able to rotate it properly and keeping track of all of Brad's suppliers. Walk-in space was minimal and produce arrived every day," he adds. From California, he moved north to Portland, and cooked at Lauro Kitchen, under David Machado; at Wildwood, under Cory Schreiber; and at Higgins, under Greg Higgins. In 2001, after about eight years refining his skills and palate in Portland, Dolich was named executive chef at Tapeo, in the Northwest neighborhood, where he remained until opening Park Kitchen, in 2003.

Offering a relatively brief list of small and large plates and a six-item dessert menu, Dolich serves what he calls "updated tavern fare", and at first expected that his clientele would be comprised of a local crowd.

He says, "I thought the majority of our customers would walk or ride their bikes in." But that was before the national press, including Gourmet, the Wall Street Journal and Sunset took notice of the little 12-seat restaurant with the bocce courts across the street. "Now we have people calling from New York for reservations." Dolich was named one of Food & Wine's "Best New Chefs" in 2004, and although he says that the acclaim has not changed the way he writes his menu, he adds that, "I can now afford to get some more expensive ingredients that I couldn't afford when I started out."

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In addition to his upgraded pantry, he notes that the way he spends his time as a chef has changed. "At first, I did all the cooking myself," he says. "I now spend the majority of my time making sure that the whip-smart cooks that I have had to hire actually get the privilege of focusing on producing the best food they can. The rest of my time I spend on trying to keep my seats full so I can afford to keep my cooks happy. I can only hope that they're as happy as I was when I was cooking all the time. It's a vicious cycle."

Dolich says that his wife provides his greatest culinary inspiration, explaining, "There are times when it's more relaxing to be in my restaurant on a Friday night than to be home cooking dinner, cleaning up the kids, cleaning up the house, breaking up the fights, reading bedtime stories ... I've got full time help. My wife doesn't."

OF HEARTLAND AND HISTORY

John Eisenhart

Pazzo

Portland, OR

He's lived and worked in New York, San Francisco and Italy, but Omaha native John Eisenhart still considers himself a child of the Midwest, and all that that implies.

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"I like to see what I'm getting, and get what I order," he says. "If something is listed on the menu and I can't find it on the plate, I'll never go back." Early in his career, he was disheartened to find himself working for a chef (he won't say which one) whose menu advertised a soup made with homemade pheasant broth but whose kitchen used packaged chicken stock. "I just don't dig that," he says. "Sure, I like making a lot of money on perceived high-value items that don't cost much, but I like to give people what they're expecting."

Eisenhart is a 1991 graduate of the California Culinary Academy who cooked at Masa's and Aqua, both in San Francisco, before moving to New York in 1995. He spent two and a half years at La Grenouille before becoming a sous chef at Babbo, Mario Batali and Joseph Bastianich's flagship Italian restaurant. After nearly three years at Babbo, during which time it was named "Best New Restaurant" by the James Beard Foundation, Eisenhart enlisted Batali's help in securing a series of cooking gigs in Lucca, Alba and Venice.

"I cooked at a place outside of Venice, La Laguna Capellino, that had ocean water piped in, and we used it to clean the fish," he recalls. "Now, if I'm at the [Oregon] coast, doing a demo or teaching, I like to scale, gut and clean the fish in the water that it comes from. It adds to the shelf life and also gives it a nuance of freshness, similar to what you would expect from an extremely fresh oyster, that briny iodine flavor."

After returning from Italy, Eisenhart put in another year at Babbo before falling in love with the laid-back lifestyle and abundance of organic meats and produce he observed during a visit to Portland. He worked for two years as a sous chef at the Heathman Restaurant, under executive chef Philippe Boulot, then moved a few blocks up Broadway to take over from executive chef Nathan Logan at Pazzo, on the ground floor of the Vintage Plaza Hotel. While the hotel and its dining outlets are part of the Kimpton Group, a boutique hotel chain with 40 properties across the US and Canada, Eisenhart says that the company's policies make him feel more like an independent proprietor than a cog in the machine.

"Kimpton treats every property as an individual entity, and they recognize the fact that I'm here every day, and I know best what's going on," he says. "It's a smart way to run a business." He has even begun to cultivate an interest in marketing because, as he says, "In Portland there are so many restaurants, sometimes you end up feeling like you're all in one room, with a bunch of voices all trying to be heard at the same time." As for his own approach to marketing, Eisenhart jokes, "I'm a slut. I'll do anything. I like to get out there and teach, do demos, enter cooking competitions, charity events, whatever." The chef is particularly fond of p:ear, a Portland-based non-profit that gets homeless teens involved in the arts, music and athletics. Some would say that even his approach to service is a form of marketing, in that he is perfectly happy to run food to the dining room if a busboy or runner is not available.

"I don't see why I should stand there like a prima donna while hot food gets cold," he explains. "I would much rather see the food get to the people quickly, and besides I'm the most qualified person to answer their questions about the food. People seem to like it," he adds. Eisenhart admits to being somewhat challenged by matters of service in Portland, saying, "The days of the part time actor/full time waiter are dwindling, and people can be somewhat lax about work, which I don't necessarily understand. I try to meet people halfway and understand why they do certain things, rather than just barking orders."

When it comes to his kitchen staff, Eisenhart says, "I'm a strong believer in body language. I look at the eyes, how they carry themselves. I can't hire someone on the phone. Right now we're living in an information age. Twenty years ago I imagine it was harder to find a good cook that would have a nice amount of knowledge about food in his head, but these days, everything is so easy to find, it kind of nulls itself out in a way." For adding to his own book smarts, he often turns to texts picked up in Italy, especially Pellegrino Artusi's La Scienza in Cucina e l'Arte di Mangiar Bene ("Science in the; Kitchen and the Art of Eating Well"), written in 1891, and Le Ricette Regionale Italiane ("Regional Italian Recipes"), by Anna Gosetti della Salva, written in 1997 but containing classic recipes from each region. Says Eisenhart, "My greatest source of inspiration is history."

RELATED ARTICLE: Beef Tongue with Chervil and Capers (Serves 6)

morgan brownlow

Barolo

Mauro Molina

La Morra, Italy 1996

directions

For the tongue: Lightly salt tongue and refrigerate one hour. In large pot, combine remaining ingredients. Fill pot halfway with water and bring to a simmer. Submerge tongue in water and poach gently until cooked through, about 1 hour. Let cool in poaching liquid in refrigerator.

For the chervil and capers: In bowl, combine all ingredients and toss gently.

To serve: Peel and slice tongue very thinly on electric slicer. Arrange slices on chilled plates and top with salsa verde. Serve immediately.

ingredients

For the tongue:

1 bcef tongue
1 onion, peeled and thinly sliced
1 bunch sage
1 star anise
1 teaspoon mustard seeds
1 tablespoon chili flakes
1 bay leaf
1 teaspoon allspice
1 bunch parsley
Sea salt to taste

For the chervil and capers:

1 bunch chervil, leaves only
2 tablespoons caper berries, rinsed and drained
1 shallot, peeled and finely chopped
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 eggs, hard boiled and coarsely chopped
Sea salt and pepper to taste

RELATED ARTICLE: Yellowtail Jack with Stewed Zucchini, Tomatoes and Basil (Serves 6)

morgan brownlow

Pinol Grigio

Vie di Romans

Friuli, Italy 2002

directions

For the stewed zucchini: In saute pan, heat oil over medium-low heat and add onions and garlic. Sweat over low heat five minutes, then add chili flakes and salt to taste. Stir one minute, then add zucchini and basil. Cook over low heat until zucchini is tender. Keep warm.

For the tomatoes: In bowl, combine all ingredients and toss gently.

For the yellowtail jack: Season fish with salt and pepper. Heat oil in saute pan over high heat and sear fish on both sides to medium-rare.

To serve: Divide zucchini mixture among plates and top each portion with one piece of fish. Top fish with tomato mixture and serve.

ingredients

For the stewed zucchini:

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 onion, peeled and thinly sliced
3 cloves garlic, peeled and thinly sliced
Pinch of chili flakes
3 zucchini, cut in half lengthwise
1/4 cup loosely packed basil leaves
Sea salt to taste

For the tomatoes:

15 cherry tomatoes, cut in half
4 fresh white anchovies, cleaned and bones removed
Zest of 1 lemon
1/4 cup loosely packed basil leaves
Extra virgin olive oil, as needed
Sea salt to taste

For the yellowtail jack:

6 4-ounce portions of yellowtail jack
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
Sea salt and pepper to taste

*Yellowtail jack (Seriolas dorsalis) is a white-fleshed Pacific fish; may substitute pompano.

RELATED ARTICLE: Gnocchi with Summer Corn and Truffles (Serves 6)

morgan brownlow

Vintage Tunina

Silvio Jermann

Friuli, Italy 2001

directions

For the gnocchi: Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Simmer potatoes in salted water until easily pierced with paring knife. Drain potatoes and place in oven 5 to 10 minutes. Peel potatoes and pass through food mill onto clean work surface. Crack egg onto potatoes and scatter cheese evenly over surface. Season with salt and dust with most of flour, reserving about one tablespoon. Gently knead ingredients together by hand until dough is uniform but not sticky. Divide dough into two pieces and roll each into a 3/4-inch thick cylinder. Cut cylinder into 1-inch lengths and gently press thumb into each piece to create indentation. Place on sheet pan and freeze until ready to cook.

For the sauce: In cold saute pan, combine butter, corn, water and salt and bring to a simmer.

To finish: Bring large pot of salted water to a boil. Cook gnocchi in boiling water until they float. Drain and add to sauce. Add truffles and toss gently over high heat one minute. Divide among six warmed bowls and garnish with cheese and chives.

ingredients

For the gnocchi:

2 Russet potatoes
1 egg
1/2 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
1/2 cup all-purpose flour
Sea salt to taste

For the sauce:

4 tablespoons butter
2 ears summer corn, removed from the cob
1/4 cup cold water
2 ounces summer truffles, mortared to a coarse paste
Sea salt to taste

For the garnish:

Grated Parmesan cheese
Finely chopped chives

RELATED ARTICLE: Gazpacho Deconstructed (Serves 6)

morgan brownlow

Vitovska

Edi Kante

Friuli, Italy 2001

directions

For the octopus: In saucepot, combine fennel canes, Pernod, onions, chili flakes and salt. Fill pot halfway with water and bring to a gentle simmer. Add octopus and poach over low heat until tender, about 10 minutes. Remove from liquid and refrigerate.

For the tomato essence: Pass tomatoes through food mill into large bowl. Whisk in oil and salt.

For the gazpacho: In large bowl, combine onions, juice, conserva and oil and toss gently. Let sit five minutes. Cut octopus into thin strips and add to onion mixture. Add peppers, cucumber, parsley and salt and pepper. Divide mixture among avocado halves.

To serve: Sauce plates with tomato essence and divide stuffed avocados among plates. Garnish with fennel pollen, oil and salt.

ingredients

For the octopus:

4 wild fennel canes*
Splash of Pernod
1 onion, coarsely chopped
1 tablespoon chili flakes
1 tablespoon sea salt
2 octopus tentacles

For the tomato essence:

4 ripe summer tomatoes, peeled, or 16 ounces canned San Marzano
  tomatoes, with their juices
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
Sea salt to taste

For the gazpacho:

1 red onion, peeled and thinly sliced
Zest and juice of 1 lemon
1 teaspoon hot pepper conserva**
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
Poached octopus (from above)
1 red bell pepper, seeded and thinly sliced
1 yellow bell pepper, seeded and thinly sliced
1 cucumber, thinly sliced
1 bunch parsley leaves
3 avocados, peeled, pitted and cut in half lengthwise
Sea salt and pepper to taste

For the garnish:

Wild fennel pollen***
Extra virgin olive oil
Sea salt

*Fennel canes are the hollow stems of the wild fennel plant: may substitute canes from cultivated fennel bulbs.

**Fresh cherry peppers, ground and aged in vinegar; made in-house at clarklewis.

***Pollen extracted from flowers of wild fennel plant. Available through Sugar Ranch, [phone], or www.fennelpollen.com.

RELATED ARTICLE: Sardines en Saor with Preserved Blood Oranges and Oil-Cured Olives (Serves 6)

morgan brownlow

Grillo

Marto di Bartoli

Sicily, Italy 2002

directions

For the saor: In saucepot, combine all ingredients. Bring to a simmer and cook over low heat until flavors bloom, about 20 minutes. Remove from heat.

For the sardines: Heat oil in black steel pan until nearly smoking. Season sardines with salt and pepper and sear, skin side down, until crisp. Transfer to deep platter and pour saor mixture over so that sardines are submerged. Hold at room temperature until ready to serve.

To serve: Arrange frisee on plates and top with two sardines per plate. Drizzle with saor mixture and garnish with olives, parsley and salt.

ingredients

For the saor:

1 onion, peeled and thinly sliced
1 fennel bulb, trimmed and thinly sliced
3 cloves garlic, peeled and thinly sliced
1/4 cup fresh sage leaves
1 tablespoon rosemary leaves
Pinch of chili flakes
1 cup aged red wine vinegar
Fennel pollen to taste*
2 cups extra virgin olive oil
1 preserved blood orange, thinly sliced**
Salt and pepper to taste

For the sardines:

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
12 sardines, gutted, spine and ribs removed, tail intact
Saor mixture (from above)
Salt and pepper to taste

To serve:

1 bunch frisee
1/2 cup oil-cured olives, pitted
1/2 cup parsley leaves
Sea salt

*Pollen extracted from flowers of wild fennel plant. Available through Sugar Ranch, [phone], or www.fennelpollen.com.

**Whole blood orange preserved in salt; made in-house at clarklewis.

RELATED ARTICLE: Salad of Shrimp, Yams and Dandelion Greens (Serves 4)

scott dolich

Cream Sherry NV

Rancho de Philo

Cucamunga Valley, CA

directions

For the vinaigrette: Combine all ingredients except oil in blender and begin to puree. With motor running, slowly drizzle in oil to emulsify. Season with salt and pepper. Note: yields more than necessary for recipe.

For the salad: In large mixing bowl, combine shrimp, lemon juice, salt and pepper and let stand two minutes. Drain excess liquid, add all remaining ingredients to bowl and toss well. Serve immediately on chilled plates.

ingredients

For the pimiento vinaigrette:

2 ounces baked and yam
1 teaspoon smoked Spanish paprika
1/2 tablespoon Dijon mustard
1/4 cup sherry vinegar
1/2 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme
1 cup olive oil
Salt and pepper to taste

For the salad:

1 pound rock shrimp, poached and shocked
1 tablespoon lemon juice
10 ounces baked and peeled yam, cut into 1/3-inch cubes
1/4 cup capers, rinsed, drained and coarsely chopped
2 shallots, peeled and thinly sliced
1 bunch dandelion greens or I head Belgian endive, cut into 1/2-inch
  ribbons
3 tablespoons pimiento vinaigrette (from above)
Salt and pepper to taste

RELATED ARTICLE: Three Ways with Pork (Serves 5)

scott dolich

Urbane (++)

directions

For the pork belly: Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Season pork with salt and pepper. Heat large saute pan over medium-high heat; sear pork in pan until browned on all sides. Remove from pan and set aside on paper towel. Discard excess fat from pan, then add onions, garlic, carrots and celery and saute until browned, about five minutes. Deglaze with sherry, then add tomato paste. Cook until mixture thickens, then add pork belly, paprika, stock and bay leaves. Bring to a simmer, transfer to oven and cook, uncovered, for 2 1/2 hours or until pork is fork-tender. Remove meat from pan and set aside. Strain sauce, skim fat and adjust seasoning. Return meat to sauce and keep warm.

For the spaetzle: Place flour in an electric mixer fitted with a paddle and slowly mix in eggs, cream and water. Once all are incorporated, increase mixer speed and beat batter for eight minutes. Remove batter from mixer and let rest, refrigerated, one hour. Bring large pot of salted water to a boil. Using perforated pan or pasta strainer and a rubber spatula, push batter through perforations into boiling water. When dumplings float to the surface, strain through clean colander and shock in ice bath. Strain, toss with oil and transfer to sheet pan.

For the bacon and Brussels sprouts: In large saute pan, heat butter until it foams and subsides. Add bacon and cook over medium-high heat until crispy and browned. Add spaetzle and cook until slightly browned, then add leaves. Cook one minute over high heat, drain excess fat, season to taste and set aside, keeping warm.

For the chicharrones: In small bowl, combine chicharrones, garlic and lemon zest, season with salt and pepper and toss to combine.

To serve: Divide bacon and spaetzle mixture among plates and top each portion with two pieces pork belly. Drizzle with braising liquid, garnish with chicharrones mixture and serve.

ingredients

For the pork belly:

2 1/2 pounds uncured pork belly, cut into 2 1/2-inch cubes, lightly
  salted and refrigerated overnight
2 onions, finely chopped
1/2 head garlic, peeled and coarsely chopped
2 carrots, peeled and coarsely chopped
1 rib celery, peeled and coarsely chopped
2 cups dry sherry
1/2 cup tomato paste
1 tablespoon Spanish paprika
2 quarts chicken stock
2 bay leaves
Salt and pepper to taste

For the spaetzle:

1 pound all-purpose flour
3 eggs
1/3 cup heavy cream
1 cup water
1/2 tablespoon vegetable oil

For the bacon and Brussels sprouts:

2 tablespoons butter
1/4 pound bacon, thickly julienned and blanched
2 cups spaetzle, from above
4 cups Brussels sprouts leaves, blanched and shocked
Salt and pepper to taste

For the chicharrones:

3/4 cup chicharrones*
1 tablespoon finely chopped garlic
1/2 tablespoon finely chopped lemon zest
Salt and pepper to taste

*Crispy, twice deep-fried pork skin; available in Latin markets.

(++) 1 1/2 ounces Maker's Mark[R] Bourbon, 1/3 ounce Cointreau, juice of 1 Meyer lemon, splash each of cranberry juice and simple syrup; shake with ice, strain into high ball glass on rocks.

RELATED ARTICLE: Razor Clams with Saffron, Sorrel and Vermouth (Serves 4)

scott dolich

Plymouth Gin Martini (++)

directions

For the saffron onion sauce: Combine all ingredients except vinegar in small, non-reactive saucepan, cover and bring to a simmer. Cook 45 minutes, or until onions have completely melted. Puree in blender and strain through fine mesh sieve. Stir in vinegar and season with salt and pepper. Reserve and keep warm.

For the cipollini onions: Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Toss onions, vermouth, oil and salt and pepper together and roast on sheet pan 20 minutes or until onions start to brown. Remove from oven and stir into saffron onion sauce. Keep warm.

For the sorrel sauce: Combine all ingredients in bowl. Hold at room temperature for service.

For the razor clams: Season clams with salt and pepper. Dredge each clam in flour, then egg, then breadcrumbs. Melt butter in large skillet over high heat until it foams, subsides and begins to brown. Fry clams in butter, working in batches if necessary, for 10 seconds per side. Drain on paper towels after cooking.

To serve: Place ladle of saffron onion sauce and roasted onions on plate and place one clam on each plate. Top clam with a few tablespoons of sorrel sauce and serve.

ingredients

For the saffrom onion sauce:

1 large yellow onion, peeled and finely sliced
2 cloves garlic, peeled and finely sliced
3/4 cup vermouth
3/4 cup heavy cream
3/4 cup fish stock
3 juniper berries
Pinch of saffron
1 teaspoon white wine vinegar
Salt and white pepper to taste

For the cipollini onions:

1/2 pound cipollini onions, peeled and cut into quarters with root stub
  left intact
1/2 cup vermouth
1 tablespoon olive oil
Saffron onion sauce (from above)
Salt and pepper to taste

For the sorrel sauce:

1/4 pound sorrel leaves, finely chopped
2 tablespoons finely chopped parsley leaves
1 clove garlic, peeled and finely chopped
2 anchovy fillets, rinsed, drained and finely chopped
1 shallot, peeled and finely chopped
1 tablespoon capers, rinsed, drained and finely chopped
Finely chopped zest and juice of 1 lemon
1 cup extra virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon chili flakes

For the razor clams:

4 razor clams, shucked and gently pounded flat
1 cup all-purpose flour
1 egg, lightly beaten
1 cup panko breadcrumbs
3 tablespoons butter
Salt and pepper to taste

(++) 2 ounces Plymouth[R] Gin, splash of dry vermouth, dash of Fee Brothers[R] orange bitters; stir and strain into chilled martini gloss. Garnish with lemon twist.

RELATED ARTICLE: Seared Scallops with Lettuce Sauce and Fennel Pickles (Serves 4)

scott dolich

Vincent's Ear (++)

directions

For the paprika oil: In small saute pan, combine paprika and oil and bring to a simmer. Remove from heat and let cool. May be stored in refrigerator for up to one week.

For the fennel pickles: Toss fennel with salt and refrigerate one hour. Drain fennel and toss with orange zest and pepper. In saucepan, combine orange juice, vinegar and sugar and bring to a simmer. Pour liquid over fennel and let cool. May be stored in refrigerator for up to two weeks.

For the lettuce sauce: Heat butter in saute pan over medium-low heat and add onion and garlic. Sweat 10 minutes or until soft and translucent, then add potatoes and stock and bring to a simmer. Cook until potatoes are tender and remove from heat. Add lettuce, stir to combine, and immediately puree with immersion blender. With motor still running, add oil, juice and salt and pepper. Strain through fine mesh sieve and cool to room temperature.

For the scallops: Heat oil in saute pan over high heat until nearly smoking. Season scallops and sear in hot oil one minute per side.

To serve: Gently reheat sauce in saute pan. Place spoonful of lettuce sauce on plate and spread to coat surface. Stack three scallops per plate in pyramid fashion and top with fennel pickles and fronds. Drizzle paprika oil onto sauce and serve.

ingredients

For the paprika oil:

1 teaspoon Spanish paprika
1/3 cup grapeseed or canola oil

For the fennel pickles:

1 fennel bulb, cored and thinly sliced
1 teaspoon Kosher salt
Zest and juice of 1 orange
Pinch of cracked white pepper
4 tablespoons Champagne vinegar
1 tablespoon granulated sugar

For the lettuce sauce:

1/2 teaspoon butter
1/2 small onion, finely chopped
1 clove garlic, finely chopped
1/2 small Idaho potato, peeled and finely chopped
2 cups clear vegetable stock
1/2 head Romaine lettuce or escarole, coarsely chopped
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1/2 teaspoon lemon juice
Salt and pepper to taste

For the scallops:

1 tablespoon vegetable oil
12 U-10 scallops
Salt and pepper to taste

For the garnish:

Fennel fronds

(++) 1 1/2 ounces Medoyeff[R] Vodka, 1/3 ounce Pernod[R], juice of one lime 1/4 ounce simple syrup; shake with ice, strain into large martini glass, Garnish with orange twist.

RELATED ARTICLE: Sweet Potato Cornbread Pudding with Maple Caramel Sauce and Pralined Pecans (Serves 8)

scott dolich & ellen jackson

Woodford Reserve[R] Bourbon NV

directions

For the sweet potato cornbread: Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Combine cornmeal with sugar, then sift in flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt and nutmeg. Whisk to combine. In separate bowl, lightly beat eggs together. Add sour cream, vanilla and butter and whisk gently until uniform. Stir in sweet potatoes just until blended. Add wet ingredients to dry all at once and stir to just moisten. Transfer mixture to 9-x5-inch loaf pan and bake 45 minutes, or until golden brown.

For the bread pudding custard: Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Scald cream and milk with cinnamon stick, vanilla bean and orange zest. Remove from heat and let infuse 10 minutes. Whisk together eggs, maple syrup, brown sugar and salt. Temper egg mixture by adding one-third of hot cream mixture to egg mixture, while whisking constantly. Whisk tempered egg mixture back into hot cream mixture. Strain custard and let cool slightly. Arrange bread in overlapping layers in buttered and sugared 8X10-inch baking dish or half hotel pan. Ladle custard over, making sure all bread is coated. Let sit 15 minutes. Bake in water bath for about one hour, or until custard has set.

For the maple caramel sauce: In heavy saucepan, combine sugar, maple syrup, water and cream of tartar. Cook over medium heat. When sugar appears deep amber, add cream, followed by butter and creme fraiche. Whisk until smooth and season with vanilla and salt.

For the pralined pecans: Combine nuts, sugar and water over high heat until liquid has evaporated and sugar is sandy textured. Reduce heat and cook five minutes, or until light caramel colored. Remove from heat, stir in butter and sprinkle with salt. Cool on parchment paper or a lightly oiled sheet pan.

To serve: Warm pudding in 300 degree oven or under broiler. Drizzle warm maple caramel sauce on bottom of plate. Cut pudding into wedges and serve with dollop of creme fraiche alongside, topped with pralined pecans.

ingredients

For the sweet potato cornbread:

8 ounces cornmeal
1 1/2 ounces granulated sugar
5 ounces all-purpose flour
1/4 ounce baking powder
1/4 ounce baking soda
1/4 ounce salt
Freshly grated nutmeg, to taste
2 eggs, room temperature
6 ounces sour cream
1/4 ounce vanilla extract
2 ounces butter, melted and cooled
8 ounces cooked, peeled and mashed sweet potatoes, cooled

For the bread pudding custard:

2 1/2 cups heavy cream
1/2 cup milk
1 cinnamon stick
1/2 vanilla bean, split and scraped
Zest of 1/2 orange
6 eggs
1/2 cup maple syrup
2 ounces brown sugar
Pinch of salt
1 loaf sweet potato cornbread, cut into 1/2-inch slices (from above)

For the maple caramel sauce:

10 ounces granulated sugar
1/4 cup maple syrup
1/4 cup water
Pinch of cream of tartar
3/4 cup heavy cream, room temperature
4 ounces butter
1/4 cup creme fraiche
1/4 ounce vanilla extract
Salt to taste

For the pralined pecans:

2 1/2 ounces pecans
2 1/2 ounces confectioners' sugar
1 1/2 ounces water or nut-based liqueur
1/2 ounce butter
Salt to taste

For the garnish:

Creme fraiche

RELATED ARTICLE: Beet and Cucumber Salad with Horseradish Mascarpone (Serves 4)

john eisenhart

Reisling "Eroica"

Chateau Ste. Michelle

Woodinville, Washington 2003

directions

For the beets: Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Roast beets in oven 45 minutes, or until cooked through. When cool enough to handle but still warm, peel and cut into 1/4-inch thick slices. Let cool to room temperature.

For the horseradish mascarpone: In food processor fitted with metal blade, combine mascarpone, water, horseradish and salt and puree.

To serve: In bowl, combine beets, cucumbers, juice and salt and pepper and toss to coat. Place loose quenelle of horseradish mascarpone on each plate, top with walnuts and arrange salad alongside.

ingredients

For the beets:

2 medium chiogga beets
2 medium golden beets

For the horseradish mascarpone:

9 ounces Galbani mascarpone*
2 tablespoons cold water
1/2 to 3/4 cup finely grated horseradish root
Salt to taste

To serve:

1 1/2 English cucumbers, peeled and cut into 1/4-inch thick slices
Juice of 1/2 lemon
Salt and pepper to taste
1/2 cup coarsely chopped walnuts

*Galbani brand mascarpone available in Italian markets, or through Marky's Caviar, www.markys.com or [phone].

RELATED ARTICLE: Agnolotti Castelmagno (Serves 4)

john eisenhart

Barolo Ginestra Casa Mate

Elio Grasso

Monforte d'Alba, Italy 1998

directions

For the filling: Combine cheese, yolks and water in medium bowl and mix with wooden spoon to combine. Season with salt and pepper and refrigerate until ready to use.

For the pasta: Sift flours together and place in food processor fitted with metal blade. Combine three eggs and yolk and drizzle into running machine, in a steady stream, until incorporated. Remove from machine and set aside, covered in plastic for 1 hour. Divide dough into two pieces and roll each through a pasta machine, starting on the thickest setting and finishing on the second-thinnest setting. Lay pasta sheets out on floured work surface. Working along the bottom edge of the pasta sheet and leaving a 1/4-inch margin closest to you, drop tablespoons of filling at 1 1/2-inch intervals. Beat remaining egg with a splash of water; brush egg wash along far edge of pasta sheet. Make horizontal fold in pasta to cover filling with pasta. Cut off excess pasta with pastry wheel. Pinch separation between fillings, then cut into individual pieces, using fluted pastry wheel. Finished product should resemble a pillow. Place agnolotti on baking sheet dusted with semolina and refrigerate until ready to use.

To finish: Bring 10 to 12 quart pot of water to a boil and add hay. Simmer 15 minutes and strain, reserving water. Return water to boil and add salt so that water tastes like seawater. In saucepan over medium-high heat, combine butter, truffles and splash of cooking water. Cook pasta in water 2 to 3 minutes, then drain and add to pan with butter. Swirl pan over high heat one minute and serve immediately in pasta bowls.

ingredients

For the filling:

1 pound Castelmagno cheese
2 egg yolks
2 to 3 tablespoons water
Salt and pepper to taste

For the pasta:

3 ounces semolina flour, plus more for dusting work surface and pasta
7 1/2 ounces all-purpose flour
4 large eggs
1 egg yolk
1/2 teaspoon salt

To finish:

2 ounces clean hay**
2 ounces unsalted butter
1 white truffle from Alba, about 3 ounces, slivered
Salt, as needed

*Castelmagno is a raw cow's milk cheese from the Piedmont region of Italy, sold as pressed curds with a brushed rind and a slightly dry interior. It has a tart, nutty flavor slightly reminiscent of extra sharp cheddar. Available through Artisanal Cheese Center, www.artisanalcheese.com or [phone].

**Eisenhart uses the hay to add a slightly grassy flavor to the butter and pasta.

RELATED ARTICLE: Cichetti di Mare: Octopus Testina with Squid Ink Aioli; Calamari with Fingerlings; Salmon Cheeks with Green Onion and Egg Salad; Skatewing en Saor

john eisenhart

Lange Pinot Gris

Yamhill Valley Vineyards

McMinnville, Oregon 2003

Prosecco

Azienda Agricola Trevisiol

Valdobbiedene, Italy 2003

Nuthouse Chardonnay

Argyle Winery

Dundee, Oregon 2000

Pinot Grigio

Silvio Jermann

Friuli, Italy 2002

directions

For the calamari and fingerlings: Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Arrange potatoes in even layer in oven-proof dish and add calamari, jalapenos and splash of water. Cover with foil and cook 5 to 8 minutes, until calamari is just cooked through. Drizzle with olive oil and season with salt. Serve hot.

For the skatewing en saor: Season fish and dredge in rye flour. Heat oil in saute pan over medium-high heat. Brown fish in pan but do not cook through. Drain fish on paper towels. Add onions to pan and cook until translucent but not browned. Add currants and verjus and simmer on medium heat until reduced by a third. Set aside. Preheat oven to 250 degrees. Place fish in shallow baking dish and pour liquid over. Cover loosely with foil and cook in oven 20 minutes. Let cool to room temperature and drizzle with olive oil. Serve fish with cooking liquid drizzled over.

For the squid ink aioli: In food processor fitted with metal blade, combine garlic and yolk. Start machine and slowly drizzle in oil, processing constantly until mixture is emulsified. Whisk in ink and juice and season with salt and pepper. Thin with water if necessary.

For the octopus testina: Heat oil and garlic together over high heat in a 6 quart pot. Add octopus and wine and reduce heat to medium-low. Simmer until tender, about 50 minutes. Using slotted spoon, transfer octopus to ceramic dish or terrine mold; add cooking liquid to cover, top with plastic wrap and press with weights. Refrigerate overnight. Slice very thinly and serve at room temperature, with squid ink aioli.

For the aioli: In food processor fitted with metal blade, combine garlic and yolk. Start machine and slowly drizzle in oil, processing constantly until mixture is emulsified. Whisk in lemon juice and season with salt and pepper. Thin with water if necessary.

For the salmon cheek salad: Season cheeks and set aside for 20 minutes. In pot, combine vinegar, water, shallots and bay leaf and bring to a boil. Add cheeks and remove from heat. Let sit in liquid until just cooked through, about 10 minutes. Drain and cool to room temperature. In bowl, combine 2 tablespoons aioli, onions, peppers, cheeks and salt and pepper. Toss to coat and place on plate. Garnish with egg and serve.

ingredients

For the calamari with fingerlings:

4 small fingerling potatoes, boiled and mashed with a fork
6 ounces Monterey Bay calamari, cleaned, bodies cut into 1/4-inch thick
  rings
1/2 jalapeno chili, sliced into thin rings
Da Vero extra virgin olive oil, as needed*
Salt to taste

For the skatewing en saor:

1 8-ounce skatewing, cleaned and cut into 4 equal portions
Bob's Red Mill rye flour, for dusting**
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 red onions, peeled and thinly sliced
1/4 cup dried currants
2 tablespoons white verjus
Da Vero extra virgin olive oil, as needed*
Salt and pepper to taste

For the squid ink aioli:

1 clove garlic, peeled and finely chopped
1 egg yolk
1 cup canola oil
1/2 teaspoon squid ink
Juice of 1 lemon
Water as needed
Pinch of salt

For the octopus testina:

3 tablespoons canola oil
10 cloves garlic, peeled
1 pound baby octopus
2 cups Willamette Valley Pinot Gris
Squid ink aioli (from above)

For the aioli:

1 clove garlic, peeled and finely chopped
1 egg yolk
1 cup canola oil
Juice of 1 lemon
Water as needed
Salt and pepper to taste

For the salmon cheek salad:

4 salmon cheeks, skinned
1/2 cup Moscato vinegar***
2 cups water
2 shallots, peeled and thinly sliced
1 fresh bay leaf, folded in half
Aioli (from above)
2 green onions, thinly sliced
Da Vero Sparkler peppers, finely chopped*
1 egg, hard boiled, peeled and grated
Salt and pepper to taste

*Da Vero olive oil and Sparklers (thin threads of dried red pepper) available through Da Vero Ingredienti, www.davero.com.

**Available through Bob's Red Mill, www.bobsredmill.com or [phone].

***Moscato vinegar is produced from Moscato grapes, typically used to produce sweet sparkling wine; available through AG Ferrari Foods, www.agferrari.com.

RELATED ARTICLE: Grilled Squab with Wild Rice and Black Grape Salad (Serves 4)

john eisenhart

Turriga Isola dei Nuraghi

Argiolas

Sardinia, Italy 1999

directions

For the wild rice: In saucepan, combine butter, rice and water over low heat and bring to a simmer. Cook over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally. Gradually stir in pine nuts and tomatoes and continue to cook until rice is tender. Stir in cheese, season with salt and pepper and keep warm.

For the squab: Preheat grill. Season birds inside and out with salt and pepper and grill to medium rare. Let sit two minutes.

For the black grape salad: In small mixing bowl, combine grapes, celery leaves and juice and toss to combine. Season with salt and pepper.

To serve: Place rice mixture on center of plate. Squeeze each bird around edge of plate to extract blood. Cut each squab into halves and place two halves atop each portion of rice. Garnish with salad and serve.

ingredients

For the wild rice:

2 tablespoons butter
1 cup wild rice
1 1/2 cups water
3 ounces pine nuts, toasted
1 green Zebra Stripe tomato, peeled, seeded and finely chopped
3 ounces Parmesan cheese, grated
Salt and pepper to taste

For the squab:

4 whole squab, cleaned
Salt and pepper to taste

For the black grape salad:

10 black grapes, thinly sliced and held in simple syrup
12 celery leaves
Juice of 1/2 lemon
Salt and pepper to taste

RELATED ARTICLE: Ceci Pappardelle with Lamb Ragu (Serves 4)

john eisenhart

Pinot Noir "Laurene"

Domaine Drouhin Vineyards

Dundee, Oregon 2000

directions

For the pasta: Sift flours together and place in food processor. Combine eggs, water and salt and drizzle into running machine, in a steady stream, until incorporated. Remove from machine and set aside, covered in plastic for 30 minutes. Divide dough into two pieces and roll each through a pasta machine, starting on the thickest setting and finishing on the thinnest setting. Cut into 1 X 5-inch strips. Set aside on a lightly floured sheet pan.

For the ragu: Preheat oven to 500 degrees. Place a large pot over medium-high heat. Add canola oil and anchovy paste and cook over medium-high heat five minutes, stirring occasionally. Add onions and cook until translucent, then add celery and carrots and cook until fragrant, stirring frequently. Add tomatoes and cook for five minutes. Season lamb neck with salt and pepper and toss in olive oil. Arrange lamb on sheet pan and sear in oven until browned, about 20 minutes. Transfer meat to mirepoix mixture and stir in wine and herbs. Cook over medium-low heat until meat falls apart, about 2 1/2 to 3 hours. Adjust seasoning and keep hot.

To serve: Bring large pot of water to a boil and add enough salt so that water tastes like seawater. Cook pasta in water until tender but al dente, about two minutes. Strain pasta and toss with hot ragu, butter and mint leaves over high heat. Serve immediately.

ingredients

For the pasta:

6 ounces all-purpose flour
2 1/2 ounces chickpea flour
3 ounces semolina flour
3 eggs
2 ounces water
1 1/2 teaspoons salt

For the ragu:

2 tablespoons canola oil
1/2 tablespoon anchovy paste
2 Spanish onions, peeled and finely chopped
2 ribs celery, finely chopped
2 carrots, peeled and finely chopped
1 1/2 cups San Marzano tomatoes, drained and crushed by hand
1 1/2 pounds lamb neck, cut into chunks
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 bottles Willamette Valley Pinot Noir
1 tablespoon coarsely chopped fresh thyme leaves
1 tablespoon coarsely chopped fresh rosemary leaves
Salt and pepper to taste

To serve:

7 tablespoons unsalted butter
10 spearmint leaves, coarsely chopped
Salt, as needed

RELATED ARTICLE: Walnut Tart with Barolo Gelato (Serves 6)

john eisenhart

Graham's 30 Year Old Tawny Port

directions

For the tart dough: In electric mixer fitted with paddle attachment, combine sugar, butter and salt and mix at low speed until evenly blended. Add yolk and mix until just incorporated. Add flour and mix until just combined. Remove from mixer, flatten into a 1-inch thick disk, wrap in plastic and refrigerate for at least 1 hour. Roll chilled dough out to 1/4-inch thickness and fit into individual tart pans. Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Bake tart shells 15 minutes, then remove from oven.

For the tart filling: In saucepan, combine butter, corn syrup and sugar and bring to a boil. Remove from heat and chill to room temperature. In bowl, whisk together cream, egg and salt. Add egg mixture to butter mixture and stir to combine. Divide walnuts among par-baked tart shells and fill each with filling mixture, covering walnuts completely. Bake in 325 degree oven 20 minutes, or until filling is nicely browned.

For the Barolo gelato: Combine all ingredients in top of double boiler and whisk over simmering water until mixture reaches 135 degrees. Remove from heat, strain and cool in ice bath. Pour into ice cream machine and freeze according to manufacturer's instructions.

To serve: Serve tart warmed with quenelle of gelato on top or alongside.

ingredients

For the tart dough:

2 ounces granulated sugar
4 ounces butter
Pinch of salt
1 egg yolk
6 ounces all-purpose flour

For the tart filling:

5 1/2 ounces butter
2 ounces corn syrup
3 ounces granulated sugar
1/3 cup heavy cream
1 egg
1/3 tablespoon salt
6 ounces walnuts, toasted

For the Barolo gelato:

4 ounces Barolo wine, reduced by 1/3 and chilled
11 ounces milk
4 egg yolks
3 ounces granulated sugar
1 1/2 ounces honey