Pop culture gives a lift to the skin care market.

IN THE PAST YEAR there has been an explosion of makeover programs on European television, many featuring cosmetic surgery and some even going as far as to show live coverage of operations. For most women, however, this is still a step too far, and many continue to place their hopes in facial skin care products. And the cosmetics industry is eager to fulfill these hopes, trying to convince women that they have the perfect products for their age, skin type, condition and lifestyle. Most major manufacturers now have clearly defined sub-brands aimed at different age bands and further divided into key skin care concerns and different areas of the face such as eyes, lips and decolletage.

This is vital as sales are slowing in many major European markets. In France, for example, growth in 2003 slowed from 9% to 6%, but was still the largest of the European markets with sales of $2.58 billion. Although results are not yet in for full year 2004, the signs are that growth will be much more modest as sales through super/hypermarkets fell 1.2% and the selective market continued to stagnate. Matters were even worse in Germany, where IRI says that sales for January to October 2004 came in at $711.38 million, representing a decline of 0.6%. In Italy, however, sales received a boost in 2003 as the recovering perfumeries helped growth rise from 1.6% to 3.5%, generating overall sales of $1.35 billion. Mintel estimates that 2004 sales will record slightly slower growth of 3.4% for a total of $1.39 billion. It was a very different situation in the UK, where 2004 sales rose a massive 12.8% to $1.01 billion.

Unsurprisingly, France is the highest user of skin care products. Some 78% of French women use a skin care product in an average week, and they apply the products 11 times. However, despite the low sales total, Germany comes in second with 75% and 12 usage occasions. Then comes Spain with 59% and 10 occasions, the UK on 58% and 10 occasions, and lastly Italy with 53% and nine occasions.

Across the Big 5 markets, cleansers are the most widely used products, with penetration averaging 52% and cleansers, 36%. However, there's still plenty of room for growth in the anti-aging sector, where penetration stands at just 8%, while eye and lip products registered even lower penetration of 7% each.

This demonstrates the potential of the segmented approach, even in the toiletry sector, where basic cleansers and toners are tightly targeted to specific consumer groups and offer additional value to their functionality. In 2004, Neutrogena, for example, introduced the Visibly Clear cleansing and toning line for 14-24 year olds. RoC targeted teens and women in their early 20s with its Purif-Ac range, while Henkel appealed to the under 30s with Diadermine Purity. Gamier, meanwhile, extended its youth-driven Pure range with a cleansing milk and cream, while Biore launched a new line aimed at pore-deep cleansing, including an ice cleanser and a self-heating scrub. All of these products respond to the demands of youthful, problem skin, incorporating anti-bacterials and ingredients to combat excess sebum production.

Oily Skin Solutions

Lancome and Estee Lauder, however, both say that oily skin isn't just a problem for the young. Lancome has developed Pure Focus, a skin care program for women who suffer from oily skin, whatever their age. The range features a Dermo-Guide system of sebum-absorbing microcaptors along with purifying active ingredients and a cinnamon-based antibacterial complex. Lauder's solution is the Clear Difference line, which it claims helps reprogram the skin with an Advanced Moisture Complex, absorbent powders and microsponges to produce less oil, and reduce redness and blotches with caffeine and sucrose.

Toiletry products are even making anti-aging claims now. Next month will see the introduction of Olay's Total Effects Age Defying cleansers, a face wash, cleansing milk, toner and facial wipes, all of which contain the brand's signature VitaNiacin formula.

Moisturizers are also becoming increasingly multifunctional. Clinique's Superdefense Triple Action Moisturizer is designed to shield the skin from damage caused by hereditary, lifestyle and environmental factors by using patented RNA fragments, cats claw and yeast extracts to enhance the skin's natural repair processes. It also contains the antioxidants and sunscreens that are present in most care products.

YSL Beaute's Nutri Systeme Creme Nourrissante Profonde, meanwhile, is described as the first cosmetic nutritionist. The company says the moisturizer provides all the nourishment that dry skin needs thanks to NutriCapsules of soya and corn extracts and a black tea derivative that is said to re-energise skin cell functions, restore the lipid balance and restore suppleness and radiance to the skin.

Future Perfect Anti-Wrinkle Radiance Creme is an anti-aging moisturizer from Estee Lauder that contains Cell Vector technology, claimed to help increase the skin's antioxidant capacity, boost its collagen production and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

Advances in Anti-Aging

However, the real money is in specifically anti-aging products. Nivea has acknowledged the desire for segmentation by working with an improved CoEnzyme Q10 complex to develop a complete anti-aging program of four products targeting specific skin care concerns. The Anti-Wrinkle Q10 Plus program comprises a day cream offering protection and intense hydration, a night cream promising regenerative effects, an antiwrinkle fluid for normal and combination skin and an eye contour treatment to illuminate and protect the delicate skin around the eyes.

And in the latest development, Dior is encouraging women to think about the shape of their face when they look for anti-aging treaments. Capture Sculpt 10 is a four-step program for women aged 40+ who want help lifting and firming their skin. As well as a basic lifting, sculpting moisturizer, the line includes a cheek and lip plumping emulsion for people with long or pointed faces whose cheeks are subject to sagging and lips to thinning during the aging process.

For those with round faces, double chins and jowliness are the signs of aging, and Dior has developed a product to tighten these tissues.

Beauty at Any Price

In the prestige market, there is also a developing niche of high priced products aimed at older women who are both willing and able to pay more than $250 for anti-aging treatments perceived to provide the best and most expensive skin care technology.

Sisley led the way in 1999 with Sisleya Global Anti-Age, and in 2004 launched Sisleya Anti-Age Extra-Riche for dry skin. It was joined at the end of the year by Lancaster's Ultimate, a day cream, night cream and set of four vials of serum which together provide an intensive anti-aging treatment to be used several times a year. The products contain Retinol III along with a phyto-hormonal botanical extract called trigonella, RPF complex and grapeskin extract.

Dior also developed a multi-part program as part of its Prestige sub-brand. Outstanding Skin Perfection comprisees serum pearls containing an anti-melanin complex and tyrosinase inhibitors which should be mixed into a revitalizing cream, which claims to clarify and rejuvenate the complexion. The products should be kept in the fridge and used as an intensive 15-day treatment two to four times a year.

However, manufacturers are also trying to convince women that it is never too early to start an anti-aging regimen. Lancaster, for example, has introduced Reversible First Signs for women in their 30s who have just started to notice expression lines. The product is said to have a 3D action which helps stop the formation of expression lines, smooth out fatigue lines from within, reduce dehydration lines and prevent new fine lines. The key ingredient is the Botanical D-Creaser Complex of melissa, red poppy, mint and passion flower which is said to help reduce voluntary contractions of the face muscles.

It's no coincidence that this sounds rather like Botox. A new generation of skin care products are claiming to reproduce the effects of professional products in the home and without the pain. Lancome's Renergie Morpholift is described as a lifting, firming and redefining treatment inspired by the latest developments in aesthetic surgery. The serum, anti-wrinkle cream, eye contour treatment and mask target morphological changes in the face with nanosomes of Laminaria ochroleuca, rice peptides, microparticles of silica and proteins and malt extract.

Do Try This at Home

Home chemical peels are also becoming popular. In the mass market, RoC introduced Peel-Ex Radiance, said to creates the impression of new skin by reducing fine lines, improving skin texture and clarifying the complexion. Rather than abrasives or AHAs, the mask contains a new generation of actives called Mucor Miehei.

In the prestige market, Lancome's Resurface Peel is a four-step process consisting of a preparatory towlette, a peel solution of 8% glycolic acid boosted by a Physio-Peel Enhancer, a soothing cloth and, finally, a comforting cream containing soothing and conditioning rose extract and shea butter.

But while these are designed to be used once or twice a week, Biotherm's daily Line Peel has a biopeeling system that uses Stimuline, supported by exfoliants such as capryloyl salicylic acid and glycolic acid.

New advances are giving facial skin care a lift, and marketers and consumers have a lot to smile about.

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