Pickling kitchen arts and crafts. (Back to Basics).

A TASTE OF HOME AND HARVEST

Ask any true pickle connoisseur why they love pickled foods and you'll usually get the same answer: They're memory-evoking, comforting, and satisfying. We often wax nostalgic about our mothers, grandmothers or favorite aunts filling jars and crocks with tangy, spice-laden brines and just-picked vegetables.

PICKLE HISTORY IN THE MAKING

Civilizations long before ours knew that a simple pickling solution acted as a catalyst to transform a variety of ingredients into flavorful delights. As a result, we've seen evidence throughout history that many different cultures pickled fruits and vegetables in mixtures of spices, salt, brine, and vinegar, as well as immersing flavorful herbs in oils. As a matter of fact, pickling recipes date as far back as medieval Europe and the Ming Dynasty in China. Pickling and preserving was also an integral part of survival before the advent of refrigeration. The summer's harvest was stored to provide sustenance for the winters and lean times; we know of emigrants' deep appreciation for pickling and preserving via their careful recordings throughout their travels.

Asian cultures have always been passionate about their sour-tasting pickles and relishes which complement many a meal. It's been said that rice and pickles are to the Japanese what bread and cheese are to the English, and bread and wine to the French. Considered an integral part of the meal, a dish of pickles always has a place on the Japanese table, and people in the northern provinces of Japan even consume pickles at afternoon tea.

Chinese and Korean-inspired kimch'i was most likely the forerunner of sauerkraut as we know it. Spicy-hot and quite pungent, kimch'i is usually made of fermented cabbage or turnips but there are many versions of this Asian staple. Kimch' is are not only enjoyed on their own but are also added to stews, soups, and stir-fries. Traditionally, the vegetables are pickled before being sealed in ceramic pots, jars, or barrels and often placed underground to ferment. Providing vitamin C and niacin and billed as a purported aid in digestion, this simple dish plays a significant role in the dietary life of these Asian cultures.

Additionally, the sweet and hot chili peppers that come from South America and India have become an important part of the pickle mix. Brightly displayed in large bottles, jars, crocks, and barrels, they abound in specialty gourmet shops and upscale markets both here and abroad. Because of boundless variety and accessibility, there is no need for those less adventurous to journey from country to country to taste local specialties.

The melting pot of America has gleaned dishes and customs from different lands and this process, in turn, has contributed to our varied cuisine. Pickling was and is an integral part of our culinary heritage. Who would have thought that pickled items, which many of us consider condiments, could be the foundation upon which much creative cooking is based?

PICKLING RESURGENCE

Nowadays, since many restaurant kitchens barely have space for putting up pickled food, chefs often employ the quick-pickle or fresh-pickle process. The fruits and vegetables to be pickled do not go through a lengthy brining process; instead, ingredients are merely soaked in brine water or spicy concoctions just long enough to give them the proper "bite" and added flavor. This process bodes well for fruit pickles and some sweeter relishes because brining solutions may overwhelm or mask the inherent flavors of ingredients if they are kept in the solutions for a long period.

Current trends in the industry include serving pickled items as starters or serving them at the same time the patron's bread and butter is placed on the table. But you'll also find them making their way onto your entree plate, adding a tantalizing contrast to meat, poultry, and seafood whose flavors may be "rounder" and seem to cry out for something a bit unexpected.

Because commercially made, pickled food items are so plentiful these days, it doesn't always readily occur to us to preserve the vegetables and fruits from our own gardens for use throughout the long months of winter. But pickling allows us to capture spring's asparagus and summer's earthy-smelling tomatoes and sweet corn at the height of their tastes and textures. The pleasure of eating uniquely flavored and perfectly seasoned pickled fruits and vegetables that you've prepared yourself is one that you'll "relish" long past the tease of Indian summer.

PICKLING PROPERTIES

There are three basic types of pickles: those preserved in vinegar, those preserved in salt, and those preserved in oil.

Items pickled in vinegar are not fermented but a minimal amount of salt is usually added for flavor. These are known as vinegar pickles, fresh pickles, or quick pickles. Salt actually plays a vital part in both the fresh and fermented pickling processes as it aids in extracting the excess water from fruits and vegetables as well as unlocking flavorful juices, concentrating their flavors, and ultimately giving them the firm texture that we so love to bite into.

The reverse is true for fermented pickles. Fermented pickles, which can either be salt-cured or brined, are always produced with salt. The salt aids in controlling the fermentation process. In this process, a touch of vinegar is usually added for flavor and also to prevent the growth of undesirable microorganisms before fermentation has a chance to kick in.

Oil is another superb medium for preserving as it simply seals off the air from the item you're pickling. Although most oils do not add much to the flavor of pickles, this situation can be remedied by the infusion of herbs, spices, and chiles. The oil also helps the seasonings adhere to the fruits and vegetables. As an added benefit, these flavor-infused oils can be used for cooking.

VINEGAR

Vinegar is used both for flavor and as a preservative. One of the oldest food products known to man, vinegar is also one of the few items to come down from Biblical times with its essential form virtually unchanged. An almost perfect act of Mother Nature, naturally fermented vinegars can be either fruit or grain-based.

DISTILLED WHITE VINEGAR: Without a doubt, this vinegar is the most popular one used in the U.S for pickling. Made from grain, it is inexpensive and won't discolor or darken the foods you are pickling. Unfortunately, its taste is rather bitter and unpleasant. If distilled white vinegar is your choice, the foods you choose to pickle in it should either be strong in flavor or you should take care to use just the right spices and aromatics. You'll have a difficult time getting the correct balance of flavors with this vinegar.

WINE VINEGAR: Sweeter and mellower than distilled vinegar, wine vinegar is the pickling medium of choice for cooks in countries such as France, Spain, and Italy, or wherever grapes grow in abundance. In making wine vinegar, grape must is first allowed to ferment. It is then pushed into a second fermentation by the addition of vinegar bacteria. Wine vinegar is an ideal medium for pickling fruit and vegetable combinations.

BALSAMIC VINEGAR Many currently used balsamic vinegars contain wine vinegar, sugar, caramel, and artificial colors and flavorings. However, true balsamic vinegar is cooked grape juice or must that is barrel-aged for decades. The grapes (usually white Trebbiano and black Lambrusco) used to make true balsamic vinegars are picked in the late fall when their sugar content is high. Because some pickling requires large amounts of vinegar, true balsamics prove an expensive option for pickling, but the taste of items pickled in this vinegar are incomparable. Commercially made grocery store balsamic vinegars work well as long as they're not too sweet or bitter.

CIDER VINEGAR Basically cider vinegar is fermented apple juice. If you're not concerned about the fruits or vegetables darkening, this vinegar will add a nice, mellow flavor as well as a soft, golden color to your food.

RICE VINEGAR: White and brown rice vinegars come from rice that is polished (white) or unpolished (brown). Rice vinegars are mild in taste and are usually enhanced with a bit of salt and sugar. Again, if you re not concerned about the vinegar darkening your pickled items, this vinegar is another viable option.

SALT

PICKING OR CANNING SALT Pickling or canning salt is pure, granulated salt with a somewhat coarser texture than that of table salt; in addition, pickling or canning salt does not contain any additives such as iodine or noncaking agents which allow table salt to free flow. Additives also cloud the final product. Pickling or canning salt dissolves easily and quickly and is a good choice for fresh as well as fermented pickles.

KOSHER SALT: Kosher salt has a distinctively strong, salty flavor and dissolves clearly in liquid, two positive attributes when pickling. Also, it contains no additives to cloud the brine or possibly add off flavors to the desired finished product.

RELATED ARTICLE: PICKLE PARTNERS FOUR CLASSIC (AND NOT SO CLASSIC) PAIRINGS

Spices and aromatics play a strong role in pickling. Although some people prefer to select just a few flavorings such as dill seed, black peppercorns, and allspice for each batch of pickles, others like a broader range of spiciness that comes from a multiple blend of aromatics and flavorings grouped as follows:

COMBINATION # 1 bay leaves, dried chile peppers, black peppercorns, yellow mustard seeds, fennel seeds, whole allspice, whole cloves, whole coriander, nutmeg pieces, cinnamon stick, fenugreek, dill seeds,

COMBINATION # 2 serrano peppers, kosher salt, fenugreek seeds, cumin seeds, fresh ginger, yellow and black mustard seeds.

COMBINATION # 3 jalapeno peppers, salt, light brown sugar, cumin, marjoram, cinnamon, fresh garlic, clove.

COMBINNATION # 4 soy sauce, fine black pepper, corn oil, light brown sugar, fresh garlic, fresh ginger, serrano peppers, lime zest.

(Serves 6)

Napa Cabbage Kimch'i

ingredients


For the cabbage:
2 heads Napa cabbages, quartered
1 1/4 cups coarse salt
4 cups water
For the radishes:
6 ounces giant white radishes,
shredded
5 tablespoons coarse salt
3 tablespoons sugar
2 cups red pepper flakes
2 teaspoons ginger, peeled and
finely minced
2 cups onion ]uice
5 tablespoons garlic, peeled and
crushed

directions

For the cabbage: Dissolve 1-1/4 cups of salt in 4 cups of water in a wide and shallow basin or bowl. Dip each stalk of the cabbage into the saltwater and then rinse it but do not shake out all of the saltwater. Place the soaked cabbage in a gallon-size container with large, clean stones placed on top of the cabbage to act as weights. Discard the remaining saltwater. Cover the container and let the cabbage pickle for 4 hours with the weights in place. Turn over and pickle for 4 more hours.

For the radishes: Combine the shredded radishes with the salt, sugar, red pepper flakes, ginger, onion juice, and garlic in a large mixing bowl. Mix together using your hands.

To finish the kimch'i: Generously smear the radish mixture on the cabbage stalks and fill in plentifully between the leaves as well. Pack the cabbage tightly in the gallon container. Cover the surface with plastic wrap, pressing down to get rid of all air pockets. Store at 70 degrees for 48 hours to ferment.

BRAIN BISTRONG

CITARELLA THE RESTAURANT

NEW YORK, NEW YORK

Passionate about food at an early age, Brian Bistrong spent his high school years working on a neighborhood turkey farm that also had orchards full of apples, cherries, and peaches: "I dealt mostly with the produce, not the turkeys -- I was never into the slaughtering aspect of turkey farming, which normally happened in the fall when the turkeys were getting plump and ready for the holidays. I did enjoy working the land and felt a lot of satisfaction when the orchards produced an abundance of great fruit."

After finishing his time at the turkey farm and graduating from high school, Bistrong attended The Culinary Institute of America to continue his culinary trek. From there, he went on to work in notable restaurants in New York City. Along the way, he was able to work with Gray Kunz at Lespinasse: "Gray is amazing. He truly is my mentor. His kitchen was magical and the experience of working with him was both incredible and intense. At the time, Lespinasse was the hottest restaurant in Manhattan ."

After several years at Lespinasse and a short stint as sous chef at The Dock on Fire Island, Bistrong felt ready to take a much needed break from cooking and decided to try his hand at baking bread. He ended up working with Amy Sherber at Amy's Bread: "My time with Amy was well spent. I basically walked into Amy's with no bread baking experience, and she gladly took me on board. She was one of the best bosses I've ever had. She was even-tempered and fair. She also realized that there's a quality of life that you give up to work in this industry and felt it was important to hold onto this affirmation as you pursue your goals."

While working for Sherber, Chef Bistrong got the bug to go back into a restaurant kitchen and took a job as saucier at Restaurant Bouley. From there, Bistrong took a short sabbatical from Restaurant Bouley to "stage" in Europe and, upon his return to the States, worked again at Bouley until it closed in 1996. Chef Bistrong continued to work with David Bouley on other projects and, at Bouley's request, returned to the kitchen as Chef de Cuisine at Bouley Bakery. After the restaurant garnered four stars from The New York Times during his tenure there, Bistrong accepted a new job offer that took him out West to the Navio Restaurant at the Ritz Carlton in Half Moon Bay, California. But the draw and challenge of working in New York City eventually pulled him back.

Since returning East and taking on the job as Executive Chef at Citarella The Restaurant, Bistrong has achieved excellence in the kitchen and in the food he serves. He has also realized the sacrifices it takes to be successful: "I love what I do, and I'm definitely obsessed. Most everything you do, you have got to love, but there are easier ways to make money than what we do. The job's physical, the kitchen's hot, the hours are long, and I spend more time at the restaurant than I do with my wife. Fortunately, my wife really understands what I'm trying to achieve and has always been very supportive. She also loves to eat, which doesn't hurt."

SUSANNA FOO

PHILADELPHIA, PENNSYLVANIA

Susannah Foo was born in Inner Mongolia and raised in Taipei, Taiwan and, as a result, her earliest food memories center on ingredients indigenous to both of these regions. Her early childhood in Inner Mongolia exposed her to a part of China that is known for cold-weather fare such as game, noodles, dumplings, pancakes, steamed bread, and wheat; yet, growing up in Taiwan introduced her to foods indicative of warm, tropical climates. An abundance of fresh fish and seafood, vegetables, warm-weather flowers and lush fruits, such as dragon's eye, were available to this budding cook.

In talking with Chef Foo, it's easy to understand her enduring devotion not only to the cuisine of northern China, but also to the use of fresh, simple ingredients:" I get to the market once or twice a week. In the summer, I am able to buy very small cucumbers for pickling, similar to the ones we picked when I was a child. They're very sweet and have great flavor. The market affords me the opportunity to look for ingredients that are a bit more unique to my cuisine. If I see something at the market that I'd like to try at the restaurant, I can pass this information on to my suppliers so that they can get them for me, also."

The flavors and textures that influence Chef Foo's cooking are based on Chinese foundations and traditions. But she is quick to admit that the success of her food also depends on her integration of cross-cultural influences: "I think the French have shown us for many years just how important it is to build on classical foundations. In my case, it gives me guidance to do what I do. Otherwise, it is easy to get too creative and lose sight of what I'm trying to achieve. Since the French and Chinese have been cooking this way for many, many years, there must be something to it because so many people still enjoy this type of cuisine to this day."

Diners come away from Susannah Foo's with a truer picture of authentic Chinese cuisine: "Customers come to the restaurant because the foods I prepare still taste original. Each individual ingredient tastes how it should, whether it be an artichoke or piece of fish. I'm not a fan of covering them up with a heavy sauce. These are the tastes of my childhood. When your taste buds develop at a young age, it is hard to change them or introduce them to a different way of flavoring something. So I go back to the comforting flavors of my youth and what makes me happiest."

MUNGJA KWAK

The first culinary collaboration of Myung Ja Kwak and her daughter, Jenny, Dok Suni (which means strong woman) showcased traditional home-style Korean food that represented, as owner Jenny Kwak puts it, "food that you would eat at home in your own kitchen." Authentic and casual, Dok Suni made its mark on the restaurant scene with its simple and true-to-form Korean cuisine. Their latest venture, Do Hwa (which translates to Dao Flower and implies growth and blossoming) specializes in traditional, yet upscale, Korean fare that is a bit more formal and intended to be served to dinner guests.

As a small child, Jenny Kwak had dreams of opening a restaurant. Upon finishing college, her dreams finally became a reality. Living in downtown Manhattan, she was very aware of the lack of Korean restaurants in the area: "I thought a Korean restaurant would do well in this part of town because our food is so different. I also wanted my Mom to be the chef of this restaurant. She's very astute, a good businesswoman, and, obviously, a wonderful cook. She also has the innate sensibility of being a mother. She's very accommodating, caring, and nurturing, and this is reflected in her food."

Jenny and her mother Myung's intuitiveness and ambition for opening authentic Korean restaurants have paid off. They attribute their success to staying true to their culinary roots and feel it is equally important to include culturally inspired ritual as a part of the meal: "Ideally, we want to satisfy the customer and find different ways to get them into the restaurant, educate them, and help them appreciate the varied and vibrant tastes of our cuisine. The flavors that we use have a real 'kick' and are very bold. Fermented flavors, like that of our kimch'i, are extremely addictive. Ultimately, we'd like our customers to return to dine often because in the end, this is what it's all about."

MYUNG JA KWAK

JENNY KWAK

DO HWA

NEW YORK, NY

BRIAN BISTRONG

Sand Dabs with Pickled Swiss Chard.

Ingredients

For the pickled white Swiss chard:
Juice of 4 lime:
1/3 cup water
1 3/4 ounces granulated sugar
1 kaffir lime leaf
3 ribs white Swiss chard, stems cut into diamonds are blanched,
leaves reserved
For the pickled red Swiss chard:
1/2 cup red wine
1/3 cup water
1 3/4 ounces granulated sugar
3 ribs red Swiss chard, stems cut into diamonds and blanched,
leaves reserved
For the pickled yellow Swiss chard:
Juice of 3 lemons
1/3 cup water
1 3/4 ounces granulated sugar
1 teaspoon curry powder
3 ribs yellow Swiss chard, stems cut into diamonds and blanched,
leaves reserved
For the pickled orange Swiss chard:
Juice of 2 oranges
1/3 cup water
3 ribs orange Swiss chard, stems cut into diamonds and blanched,
leaves reserved
For the pickled striped Swiss chard:
1/4 cup brandy
1/3 cup water
1 3/4 ounces granulated sugar
3 ribs striped Swiss chard, stems cut into diamonds and blanched
leaves reserved
For the artichokes:
4 large artichokes, bottoms and stems only
1/3 cup olive oil
Juice of 1 lemon
1 bunch thyme
4 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed
1 lemon, thinly sliced
Salt and pepper to taste
Par the cannellini beans:
3/4 cup chicken stock
1 leek, trimmed and chopped
1 rib celery, chopped
2 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed
1 bay leaf
5 ounces cannellini beans, soaked overnight
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
Salt and pepper to taste
For the Swiss chard:
1 tablespoon canola oil
Reserved Swiss chard leaves, blanched
Reserved cannellini beans
Salt and pepper to taste
For the sand dabs:
Wondra[R] flour, as needed
1 tablespoon canola oil
8 filets sand dab, skin on
2 ounces unsalted butter
1 shallot, peeled and chopped
1/3 cup white wine
5 tablespoons reserved pickling liquids
Juice of 1/2 lemon
Reserved artichokes
Reserved Swiss chard stems
1/4 bunch parsley, stemmed and minced
1/4 bunch chives, minced
Salt and white pepper to taste
For the garnish:
Extra virgin olive oil
Fleur de sel

Directions

For the pickled Swiss chard stems: In separate saucepans, combine all of the ingredients for each respective variety of Swiss chard and bring to a boil. Set aside to cool. Transfer each type of the pickled Swiss chard into separate containers. Cover and refrigerate overnight. Reserve one tablespoon of picking liquid from each.

For the artichokes: Preheat the oven to 200 degrees. In a bowl, mix the artichokes with one-quarter cup of olive oil and the juice of half a lemon and season. In a roasting pan, arrange the thyme in an even layer and place the artichokes on top. Top with two garlic cloves and lemon slices. Cook in the oven for two hours. Remove from the heat and discard the aromatics. Cut each artichoke into six wedges and toss with the remaining olive oil, lemon juice, and garlic.

For the cannellini beans: In a saucepan, combine the chicken stock, leeks, celery, garlic, and bay leaf. Simmer for thirty minutes and strain the liquid through a fine mesh sieve, discarding the solids. Return the liquid to a saucepan and add the beans. Season and simmer until the beans are tender, about one hour.

For the Swiss chard leaves: In a saute pan, heat the oil. Add the Swiss chard leaves and reserved cannellini beans. Saute until warmed through. Remove from the heat and keep warm.

For the sand dabs: Season the sand dabs and dust with Wondra [R] on the skin-side only. In a large saute pan, heat the oil and saute the sand dabs, skin-side down, until golden brown. Turn the fillets over and add the butter and shallots to the pan. Baste the fillets with the butter and cook to the desired doneness. Deglaze the pan with white wine, the reserved pickling liquids, and lemon juice. Add the artichokes, chard stems, parsley, and chives and warm through.

To serve: Place the cannellini beans and Swiss chard leaves in the center of a plate. Arrange the sand dab fillets on top. Place three artichoke wedges on top. Arrange assorted pickled Swiss chard stems around the dish and spoon the sand dab sauce on top. Drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle with the fleur de sel.

Chardonnay

ZD Wines

Napa, California 1999

Grilled Pompano with Preserved Lemon Sauce (Serves 4)

Ingredients


For the pompano:
1 1/2 cups extra virgin olive oil
2 1/2 cups canola oil
1 teaspoon cracked black peppercorns
Zest of 1 lemon
2 sprigs rosemary
3 bay leaves
3 sprigs thyme
4 6-ounce pompano filets, skin on 1/2 head garlic, cut
horizontally
Salt and pepper to taste
For the preserved lemons:
2 cups kosher salt
1 cup granulated sugar
3 quarts water
5 cloves
5 coriander seeds
1/4 teaspoon saffron threads
10 black peppercorns
1 cinnamon stick
4 lemons
For the gnoccbi:
Kosher salt, as needed
5 Yukon gold potatoes
2 egg yolks
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
7 ounces all-purpose flour
1 1/2 teaspoons sea salt
1/2 teaspoon ground white pepper
5 sprigs parsley, stemmed and minced
1/4 bunch chives, minced
5 sprigs tarragon, stemmed and minced
5 sprigs chervil, stemmed and minced
2 tablespoons olive oil
For the preserved lemon sauce:
1 preserved lemon, rind only, minced
2 tablespoons pitted and minced
Sicilian green olives
1/2 cup chicken stock
1 teaspoon preserved lemon liquid
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1/2 tablespoon minced chives
1/2 tablespoon minced parsley
Salt and white pepper to taste
For the garnish:
Chorizo crisp
Green Sicilian olives, pitted and finely minced
Zest of 1 lemon, finely minced

Note: The recipe for preserved lemons yields more than what is called
for in the final dish. Preserved lemons can be stored for up to one
month prior to use.

directions

For the pompano: In a casserole dish, combine 1/2 cup of the olive oil, 1/2 cup of the canola oil, the peppercorns, lemon zest, rosemary, bay leaves, and thyme. Submerge the pompano filets in the marinade; cover and refrigerate overnight.

For the preserved lemons: In a saucepan, combine the salt, sugar, water, cloves, coriander seeds, saffron, peppercorns, and cinnamon stick. Bring to a boil; reduce the heat and simmer until the sugar is dissolved. Add the lemons and simmer over low heat until softened, about 15 minutes. Remove from the heat and let cool. Reserve one teaspoon of the liquid for the sauce.

For the gnocchi: Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Cover a sheet pan with kosher salt and place the potatoes on top. Roast until tender; about 30 minutes. Remove from the heat; peel and put through a ricer. In a medium bowl, combine the potatoes, egg yolks, extra virgin olive oil, flour, salt, and pepper. Fold in the parsley, chives, tarragon, and chervil. Transfer the dough to a lightly floured work surface and roll the dough into 1/2-inch round strips. Using a sharp knife, cut the strips into 1-inch pieces and place on a flour-dusted sheet pan. Prepare a bowl with ice water. Bring a saucepan of salted water to a boil. Add the gnocchi and simmer until they rise to the top. Strain and place in the ice water until cooled. Strain and toss with one tablespoon of the olive oil.

For the preserved lemon sauce: In a saucepan, combine the preserved lemon rind, olives, chicken stock and preserved lemon liquid. Simmer until heated through. Add the butter; chives, and parsley and whisk to combine. Season and keep warm.

To finish the pompano: Preheat the grill. Prepare a paper-towel lined sheet pan. Season the filets and mark both sides on the grill. In a large saucepan over medium heat, combine the remaining extra virgin olive oil, canola oil, and garlic. When the temperature reaches 110 degrees, add the pompano filets and cook until done, about five to ten minutes. Drain on the sheet pan and keep warm.

To finish the gnoccbi: In a saute pan, heat the remaining olive oil. Add the gnocchi and saute until golden brown. Season.

To serve: Set a mound of gnocchi in the center of a plate and place a pompano filet on top. Place a chorizo crisp on top of the filet. Spoon a small amount of the sauce around the dish and garnish with the olives and lemon zest.

Mersault Les Tillets

Patrick Javillier

Burgundy, France 1998

(Serves 6) Corned Beef Braised Short Ribs with Pickled Cabbage

Ingredients


For the cabbage:
1 head napa cabbage, trimmed
and quartered
1 cup white vinegar
1/4 cup granulated sugar
1 tablespoon sea salt
4 cloves garlic, peeled and
chopped
1/2 cup water
1 carrot, peeled and julienned
1 daikon radish, peeled
and julienned
2 opal basil leaves, julienned
For the brine:
1 cup sea salt
1/2 teaspoon potassium nitrate *
3 quarts warm water
2 bay leaves
1 tablespoon fennel seed
1 tablespoon coriander seed
1 tablespoon black peppercorns
1 tablespoon pink peppercorns
1 cinnamon stick
5 pounds beef short ribs
For the short ribs:
2 tablespoons canola oil
Reserved short ribs
2 onions, peeled and diced
1 carrot, peeled and diced
1 rib celery, diced
3 quarts beef stock
1 leek, green part only, blanched
1 bunch chives, blanched
For the consomme:
Reserved short rib liquid
2 onions, peeled and diced
1 carrot, peeled and diced
1 rib celery, diced
2 egg whites
1/4 pound ground beef
For the vegetables:
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1 tablespoon honey
1 parsnip, peeled and cut
into diamonds
1 small celeriac, peeled and
cut into diamonds
4 baby carrots, peeled
1/4 cup water
4 broad beans, blanched and
cut on the bias
Salt and pepper to taste
For the Asian pear salad:
1 large Asian pear, peeled
and grated
1/2 teaspoon lemon juice
1 teaspoon extra virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon chopped chives
1 teaspoon grated fresh
horseradish
Salt and pepper to taste
For the garnish:
Horseradish, grated
* Potassium nitrate is available
through De Choix Specialty
Foods at [phone].

directions

For the cabbage: Place the cabbage in a container and set aside. In a saucepan, bring the, vinegar, sugar, salt garlic, water, carrot, and radish to a boil. Remove from the heat: and set aside for five minutes. Pour the hot liquid over the cabbage and let cool. Cover and refrigerate for one week. Remove the cabbage from the liquid and cut into half-inch wide strips. Place the strips of cabbage on a flat work surface. Divide the carrot, radish, and basil slices equally and place each individually on the cabbage strips. Roll the cabbage strips to encase the carrot, radish, and basil.

For the brine: In a bowl, dissolve the salt and potassium nitrate in the warm water. Add the remaining ingredients and submerge the short ribs in the liquid. Cover with plastic wrap and store in the refrigerator for four days. Remove the meat from the brine and pat dry. Discard the brine.

For the short ribs: In a large saucepan, heat the oil. Acid the ribs and sear on all sides. Remove from the pan and set aside. Add the onions, carrot, and celery and saute until the onions are translucent. Return the ribs to the pan and add the stock. Bring to a boil; reduce the heat and simmer until the meat is tender, about three to four hours. Remove the meat from the liquid; strain through a fine mesh sieve and let cool. Remove the bones from the centers of each rib and discard. Place the pieces of meat together. Wrap a leek around the middle of the meat and tie to secure. Wrap a chive around each piece of leek and tie to secure. Repeat to make six short rib bundles. Keep warm.

For the consomme: In a food processor, pulse the onion, carrot, celery, egg white, and ground beef to form a rough paste. Transfer to a large saucepan and add the reserved short rib liquid. Gently simmer until a raft forms on the surface, about one hour. Remove from the heat. Discard the raft and, using a ladle, carefully strain the liquid through a coffee filter-lined mesh sieve. Keep warm.

For the vegetables: In a saute pan, melt the butter and add the honey. Add the celeriac, parsnips, and carrots and toss to coat. Add the water; simmer and reduce to a glaze. Add the broad beans. Toss to coat and simmer until warmed through.

For the pear salad: In a bowl, combine all of the ingredients and toss to coat.

To serve: Place six cabbage rolls per serving on a long plate. Spoon a portion of the vegetables into the center of a shallow bowl. Set a short rib bundle on top of the vegetables and ladle consomme over the ribs and vegetables. Top with the Asian pear salad and grated horseradish.

Blaufrankisch Joanneshohe

Prieler

Neusiedlersee-Hugelland, Austria 1998

(Serves 4)

Grilled Sardines with Pickled Spring Onions

Ingredients


For the pickled spring onions:
1 cup balsamic vinegar
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 teaspoon sea salt
1/4 teaspoon white pepper
1 teaspoon granulated sugar
12 spring onions, bulbs only, sliced thinly *
For the Parmesan tuiles:
3 1/4 ounces unsalted butter
3 eggs
4 ounces Parmesan cheese, grated
3 1/4 ounces all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon black sesame seeds
For the sardines:
10 sardines, fileted
1 tablespoon olive oil
1/4 bunch parsley, stemmed and minced
Zest of 1 lemon
1 shallot, peeled and sliced
Salt and white pepper
For the garnish:
Reserved tuiles, crushed
Zest of 1/2 lemon, minced
1 teaspoon pink peppercorns, crushed
Micro scallions **
Reserved spring onion pickling liquid

* Chef Bistrong suggests using pearl onions if spring onions are not
available.

** Available through The Chef's Garden at [phone].

directions

For the pickled spring onions: In a bowl, whisk the vinegar, oil, salt, pepper, and sugar together to combine. Place the Onions in a container and pour the liquid over the Onions. Cover and refrigerate for four hours.

For the Parmesan tuiles: Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. In the howl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the butter until smooth. Add the eggs, one-half ounce of Parmesan cheese, and flour and mix to combine, scraping down the sides of the bowl as needed. Using an offset spatula, spread the batter evenly onto a silpat-lined sheet pan. Sprinkle the tuile batter with the remaining Parmesan cheese and the sesame seeds. Bake until golden brown, about five minutes. Remove from the oven, cool, and crush.

For the sardines: In a shallow dish, combine the olive oil, parsley, lemon zest, and shallots. Season the sardine filets and coat with the mixture. Marinate for two hours in the refrigerator. Preheat the grill. Grill the sardines on both sides for about 30 seconds.

To serve: Arrange the spring onions on a plate and lay five sardines filets, evenly spaced, on top. Sprinkle with the crushed tuiles, lemon zest, pink peppercorns, and micro scallions. Drizzle the plate with a small amount of the spring onion pickling liquid.

Gavi Di Gavi

La Scolca

Piedmont, Italy 2000

Tempura Lobster Salad with Celery-Basil (Serves 4) Dressing

ingredients


For the celery juice emulsion:
1/2 cup celery juice
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
Salt and white pepper to taste
For the basil oil:
1/4 bunch basil, blanched, shocked,
and squeezed dry
1/2 cup blanched, shocked, and
squeezed dried spinach leaves
1/4 cup canola oil
For the green papaya salad:
2 Maine lobsters, 1 1/2 pounds each
1 medium green papaya, peeled,
seeded, and julienned
1 Thai chili, julienned
1 tablespoon roasted and
chopped peanuts
Juice of 6 times
1 teaspoon rice wine vinegar
1 tablespoon fish sauce *
2 teaspoons palm sugar **
1/4 bunch chives, minced
5 springs cilantro, stemmed and minced
For the tempura:
1 cup all-purpose flour
1 egg
3/4 cup sparkling water, chilled
Reserved lobster tails
Salt and white pepper to taste
For the garnish:
Purple micro shiso ***

* Fish sauce is the liquid from salted and fermented fish. Available in
Asian markets.

** Palm sugar is a dark, coarse, unrefined sugar derived from palm trees
and/or sugarcane juice. Available in Asian markets.

*** Available through. The Chef's Garden at [phone].

directions

For the celery juice emulsion: Pour the celery juice in a blender and mix. Slowly add the olive oil until emulsified. Season and set aside.

For the basil oil: combine all of the ingredients in a blender and puree until smooth.

For the green papaya salad: Prepare a large bowl of ice water. Bring a large saucepan of water to a boil. Separate the tails and claws from the lobsters. Reserve the bodies for stock. Blanch the tails for three minutes; shock in the ice water and reserve. Blanch the claws for five minutes; shock in the ice water and reserve. Remove the meat and discard the shells. Slice the claw meat, cut the tails in half lengthwise and reserve. In a bowl, combine the lobster claw meat, green papaya, chili, and peanuts. In a separate bowl, whisk together, the lime juice, rice wine vinegar, fish sauce, and palm sugar to make the dressing. Reserve one tablespoon of the dressing. Pour the remaining dressing over the lobster and toss to combine. Mix in the chives and cilantro. Keep chilled.

For the tempura: Preheat the deep fryer to 350 degrees. In a bowl, mix together the flour, egg, sparkling water, salt, and pepper. Dip the lobster tails into the tempura batter and deep-fry until light golden brown. Transfer to a paper towel-lined sheet pan to drain. Keep warm.

To finish the dish: In a bowl, mix the celery juice emulsion, basil oil, and reserved green papaya salad dressing together. Season to taste.

To serve: Spoon 1 tablespoon of the celery-basil sauce into a shallow bowl. Top with a portion of the green papaya salad. Place a lobster tail on top of the salad and garnish with the micro shiso.

Riesling Cuvee Frederic Emile

Frederic Emile Trimbach

Alsace, France 1998

SUSANNA FOO:

Slow Roasted King Salmon in Sake and Soy Brine (Serves 4)

ingredients


For the sake ginger brine:
1/2 cup sake
1/2-inch piece ginger, peeled
and sliced
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1/2 cup water
1/2 ounce rock sugar
1/2 tablespoon kosher salt
2 sprigs lemon thyme
1/8 cup coriander leaves, minced
For the salmon:
8 4-ounce Wild King salmon
filets, center-cut and skin on *
Reserved sake ginger brine
1 small fennel bulb, diced, tops
and fronds chopped
1/4 cup olive oil
For the couscous:
2 tablespoons soybean oil
1 shallot, peeled and sliced
1 clove garlic, peeled and sliced
3 turmeric roots, peeled and grated **
2 jalapeno peppers, stemmed,
seeded, and chopped
Reserved diced fennel bulb
1/2 cup Israeli couscous, soaked
in warm water for 10 minutes,
drained and rinsed
2 tablespoon unsalted butter
2 cups chicken stock
1 tomato, peeled, seeded, and diced
1 ear white corn, kernels removed
1/4 bunch basil, stemmed and chopped
2 springs thyme, stemmed
Salt and pepper to taste
For the garnish:
Zucchini flowers
Asparagus tips, blanched
Yellow tomatoes, peeled
Reserved fennel fronds
Reserved sliced fennel
Note: Chef Foo recommends roasting
the salmon at 250 degrees for thirty
minutes. Slow roasting at a low
temperature will yield a moist and
tender center.

* Wild King salmon is a available in the spring and summer. Available
through Samuels and Son Seafood at [phone].

** Fresh turmeric root can be found in Indian markets. If fresh turmeric
is unavailable. Chef Foo suggests substituting one teaspoon of turmeric
powder for the fresh turmeric.

directions

For the brine: In a medium saucepan, combine the sake, ginger, soy sauce, water, rock sugar, and salt. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, and simmer for ten minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside.

For the salmon: Place the salmon filets, skin-side up, in a single layer in a shallow container. Pour the brine mixture over the salmon. Cover and set aside in the refrigerator for two hours. Preheat the oven to 250 degrees. Place the chopped fennel tops in a single layer in a shallow baking pan. Remove the salmon from the brine mixture and drain, reserving the brine. Place the salmon in a medium bowl and toss with the olive oil. Transfer to the shallow pan and place on top of the fennel. Place in the oven to roast for 30 minutes, occassionally basting with the reserved brine. Remove from the heat and set aside, keeping warm.

For the couscous: In a medium saucepan, heat the oil. Add the shallots, garlic, turmeric, peppers and diced fennel and saute until tender. Add the couscous and butter and saute until melted. Add the chickenstock, tomatoes, and corn. Bring to a boil; reduce the heat and simmer until the couscous is tender. Remove from the heat; season and add the basil and thyme. Set aside keeping warm.

To serve: Spoon equal amounts of conscous into shallow soup bowls. Arrange two salmon filets in the center of each dish. Place the asparagus and cherry tomatoes on top of the filets. Garnish the filet with the zucchini blossoms and reserved fennel.

Sauvignon Blanc

Spy Valley

Matlborough, New Zealand 2001

SUSANNA FOO (Serves 4) Tea-Smoked Poussin with Pickled Brussels Sprouts 

ingredients


For the Brussels sprouts:
1 pound Brussels sprouts, blanched,
quartered, and shocked
1 small red bell pepper, stemmed,
seeded, and julienned
2 hot peppers, thinly sliced
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1 tablespoon Szechuan peppercorn oil *
2 cloves garlic, peeled and sliced
2 tablespoons white vinegar
1 tablespoon granulated sugar
For the plumcots:
5 plumcots, pitted and halved **
1 cup water
1 cup granulated sugar
2 star anise
2-inch piece ginger, peeled
and julienned
1 red chili pepper, sliced
For the poussins:
1 1/2 tablespoons kosher salt
1/2 tablespoon Szechuan peppercorns
4 1-pound poussins
1/2 cup all-purpose flour
1/2 cup granulated sugar
1/2 cup rice
1/2 cup green tea leaves
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 shallots, peeled and chopped
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar
1 tablespoon sesame oil
For the sauce:
2 tablespoon soybean oil
12 ounces shallots, peeled
and quartered
1/2 head garlic, peeled and chopped
5 springs thyme
3 cups Chardonnay wine
2 gallons water
2 1/2 pounds duck bones, roasted
3 star anise
1/2 tablespoon black peppercorns
Salt and pepper to taste

* Available in Asian markets.

** Plumcots are a hybrid cross between a plum and an apricot. Available
through most produce purveyors.

directions

For the Brussels sprouts: In a medium bowl, combine the Brussels sprouts, red pepper, hot peppers, and salt and refrigerate. In a saucepan, mix together the Szechuan peppercorn oil and garlic. Saute over medium heat for three minutes. Remove from the heat; add the vinegar and sugar and stir to dissolve. Set aside to cool. Pour the garlic mixture over the Brussels sprouts. Transfer to a container; cover and refrigerate for three days. Remove the Brussels sprouts and discard the liquid. Separate the Brussels sprout leaves.

For the plumcots: Place the plumcots in a bowl. In a saucepan, bring the water, sugar, star anise, ginger, and chili peppers to a boil, Reduce the heat and simmer for 15 minutes. Set aside to cool. Pour the cooled liquid over the plumcots. Cover and refrigerate for one day. Remove the plumcots and discard the liquid. Peel the plumcots; dice one and thinly slice the remaining.

For the poussins: Place a wok over low heat. Add the salt and Szechuan peppercorns and roast slowly, stirring often, until the mixture just begins to smoke, about twenty minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool. Rub the mixture onto the poussins. Cover and refrigerate turning occasionally. In a medium bowl, combine the flour, sugar, rice, and green tea. Prepare a hot smoker with a wire rack. Place the poussins on the wire rack and smoke over high hear for five minutes. Reduce the heat and smoke for an additional ten minutes. Turn off the heat and let stand covered for ten more minutes. Remove the poussins from the smoker and set aside to cool. Cut the poussins in half lengthwise and place on a sheet pan. In a saucepan, heat the oil. Add the shallots and saute until brown, about two minutes. Remove from the heat and add the soy sauce, vinegar, and sesame oil.

For the sauce: In a large saucepan, heat the oil. Add the shallots, garlic, and thyme and saute until tender. Deglaze with two cups of the wine and reduce until almost dry. Add the water and duck bones. Bring to a boil; reduce the heat and simmer for three hours. Strain through a fine mesh sieve and reserve. In a saucepan, combine the remaining Chardonnay, star anise, and black peppercorns. Simmer and reduce by half. Add the reserved liquid and simmer until reduced by half. Strain the mixture through a fine mesh sieve and return to the saucepan; reserve the star anise separately for garnish. Reduce the sauce until thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. Season and keep warm.

To finish the poussins: Preheat the broiler. Brush the tea-smoked poussins with the soy sauce mixture on both sides. Place in the broiler and baste until desired doneness turning once.

To serve: Cut each poussin in half again. Arrange on the plate with a small amount of the pickled Brussels sprout leaves. Lay a sliced plumcot next to the Brussels sprout leaves and sprinkle with the julienned ginger. Spoon a portion of the sauce around the poussin and garnish with the star anise and diced plumcot.

Chardennoy, Vire Cheese

Andre Banhomine

Burgundy, France 2000

Poached Brined Lobster (Serves 4)

ingredients


For the red pepper tuiles:
5-ounces all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon salt
17 ounces confectioners' sugar
1 tablespoon Chinese red pepper *
8 ounces unsalted butter, softened
1 cup orange juice
For the lobster stock:
2 2-pound lobsters
1 cup soybean oil
1 small onion, peeled and chopped
1 rib celery, chopped
1 fennel bulb, fronds only
2 shallots, peeled and chopped
5 quarts water
For the lobster brine gelee:
1 fennel bulb
Reserved lobster stock
8 ounces salt
2 tablespoons fennel seeds
Reserved lobster tails and claws
4 sheets gelatin, soaked in cold water
For the vegetables:
2 tablespoons olive oil
Reserved fennel bulb, trimmed
 and sliced into wedges
Reserved lobster brine
4 ounces chanterelle mushrooms
6 ounces soybeans, blanched
 and peeled
Salt and pepper to taste
For the garnish:
Red jalapeno pepper, sliced
Endive leaves, chopped
Dill
Oregano flowers **

* Available in Asian markets.

** Available through The Chef's Garden at [phone].

directions

For the red pepper tuiles: Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, combine the flour, salt, sugar, and pepper on low speed. Add the butter and mix to combine. Add the orange juice and mix to combine, scrapping down the sides of the bowl as needed. Cover and chill the batter for about thirty minutes. Using an offset spatula, spread the batter onto a silpat-lined sheet pan to form 6 thin squares. Place in the oven and bake until golden brown, about eight minutes. Remove from the heat and while still warm; shape the squares into cones and set aside to cool.

For the lobster stock: Separate the tails and the claws, with the knuckles attached from the bodies. And set aside. Remove the lungs and discard. Roughly chop the bodies. In a stockpot heat the oil. Add the lobster bodies and saute until the shells turn deep red. Add the onion, celer, fennel and shallots and saute until golden brown. Add the water and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer for one hour. Remove from the heat and strain through a fine mesh sieve; discarding the solids. Return the stock to a large saucepan and keep warm.

For the lobster brine gelee: Cut the top off of the fennel bulb with the fronds intact and chop Trim and reserve the bulb. In a large saucepan, bring the lobster stock salt, fennel seeds, and chopped fennel top to a boil Reduce the heat and simmer. Remove two cups of the brine and strain through a fine mesh sieve. Add the gelatin to the two cup of brine and sur until dissolved. Pour the gelee into four shallow bowls and refrigerate until set, about two hours: Add the lobster tails and claws to the remaining brine and poach for five minutes. Remove from the brine, remove the meat from the shells and discard the shells. Cut the tail meat lengthwise down the center.

For the vegetables: In a medium saute pan, heat one tablespoon of olive oil. Add the fennel and saute on both sides. Add the lobster brine and reduce the heat. Simmer until the fennel is tender, about 15 minutes. Strain the brine from the fennel and set both aside. In the same saute pan, heat the remaining olive oil. Add the chanterelle mushrooms and saute until wilted. Add the fennel, mushrooms, and soybeans and mix to combine.

To serve: Spoon the vegetables into a bowl with the lobster brine gelee. Top with the sliced red jalapenos and chopped endive. Place half of a lobster tail and claw on top of the vegetables. Spoon the lobster brine around the vegetables. Place the dill and oregano flowers inside of the tuile and set against the lobster claw. Garnish the plate with additional dill.

Riesling

Dopff & lifon

Alsace, France 2000

Panko Crusted Goat Cheese with Pickled Beets (Serves 8)

Ingredients


For the pickled beets:
2 medium golden beets, boiled and peeled.
2 medium striped beets, boiled and peeled
1 cup water
1/4 cup granulated sugar
2 tablespoons vinegar
1 star anise
1-inch piece ginger, peeled and minced
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
For the cifrus vinaigrette:
1/4 teaspoon cornstarch
1 teaspoon water
1 cup orange juice
Juice of 1/2 lime
Zest of 1/4 orange
Zest of 1/2 lime
1/2 shallot, peeled and minced
1 sprig rosemary leaves, finely chopped
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
Salt and white pepper to taste
For the goat cheese:
1 12-ounce log goat cheese
1/2 cup all-purpose flour
2 eggs, slightly beaten
1 cup panko breadcrumbs
1/2 cup coybean oil
For the garnish:
Lemon and orange zests
Baby red mustard greens *
Roasted yellow cherry tomatoes, skinned

* Available through The Chef's garden at [phone].

directions

For the pickled beets: Cut the tops and bottoms off of the beets. Using a mandolin, cut the golden beets into paper-thin rounds. Cut the striped beets into even to a large glass container. In a saucepan, bring the water, sugar, vinegar, star anise, ginger and salt to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer for ten minutes. Remove from the heat and let cool. Once cooled, pour the liquid over the beets; cover and refrigerate for one week.

For the citrus vinaigrette: Whisk the cornstarch and water together to form a slurry. In a medium saucepan, bring the orange juice, lime juice, and orange and lime zests to a boil. Whisk in the cornstarch slurry. Simmer and reduce the liquid to yield approximately three-quarters of a cup, about 20 minutes. Transfer to a medium bowl to cool. Place the liquid in a blender; add the shallots and rosemary and blend. While blending, slowly add the olive oil to combine. Season to taste.

For the goat cheese: Slice the goat cheese into eight equal pieces. Place the flour, egg, and panko in three separate bowls. Dredge a goat cheese slice in the flour, patting off any excess. Dip in the egg and roll to coat well with the panko. Repeat with remaining goat cheese slices. In a large saute pan, heat the soybean oil. Add the goat cheese slices and saute on both sides until golden brown. Transfer the slices to a paper towel-lined sheet pan to drain. Keep warm.

To serve: Arrange slices of the golden beets in a circular pattern on a plate with a small amount of pickling liquid. Top with the baby mustard greens. Drizzle the golden beets and the plate with citrus vinaigrette. Place a goat cheese slice and two wedges of the striped beets next to the golden beets. Garnish the wedges with lemon zest. Place the roasted yellow cherry tomatoes next to the beets.

MYUNGJA KWAK

Pickled Perilla Leaves with Kimch'i Buchim (Serves 2)


ingredients
For the perilla leaves:
1/2 tablespoon toasted sesame seeds
1/2 tablespoon sea salt
1/4 cup soy suace
1 tablespoon finely minced scallion
1/4 onion, peeled and minced
1 clove garlic, peeled and minced
1 tablespoon Korean red chili pepper powder *
2 tablespoons sesame oil
1 tablespoon brown sugar
1 bunch perilla leaves, washed and drained **
For the kimch'i buchim:
1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour, sifted
1/2 cup water
2 cloves garlic, peeled and minced
10 ounces kimch'i, coarsely chopped
1/2 bunch scallions, green tops, cut into 1-inch pieces
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 red chili peppers, slied on the bias
For the dipping suace:
2 tablespoons soy sauce
1 1/2 teaspoons red pepper flakes
1 teaspoon sesame seeds
1 1/2 teaspoons rice vinegar
For the garnish:
Sesame seeds

Note: Kimchi's buchim is traditionally made into one large pancake.

* Korean red chili pepper powder is ground from dried, spicy, red chili
peppers. Available in Korean markets.

** Perilla leaves are heart-shaped leaves from the Korean mustard plant.
Available in Korean markets.

*** Kimch'i is commonly known as spicy, pickled cabbage in Korea. Chef
Kwak's recipe for kimch'i can be found on page 7.

For the perilla leaves: In a mortar and pestle, crush the sesame seeds with the salt until finely ground. Transfer to a bowl and add the soy sauce, scallion, onion, garlic, pepper flakes, sesame oil, and brown sugar. In a small container, spoon a layer of the soy sauce mixture on the bottom and lay one perilla leaf on top of the mixture. Spoon additional soy sauce mixture on top of the leaf and lay another perilla leaf on top. Repeat, alternating layers of the soy sauce mixtrue with the remaining perilla leaves. Cover and refrigerate for five hours.

For the kimch'i buchim: In a bowl, combine the flour and water to make a batter. Add the garlic, kimch'i, and scallions. In a large saute pan, heat 1/2 tablespoon of oil. Using a two-ounce ladle, spoon the batter into the hot oil to form four pancakes. Place a slice of red chili pepper in the center of each pancake and cook until done. Transfer to a paper-towel lined sheet pan and keep warm. Repeat with the remaining batter.

For the dipping sauce: In a medium bowl, add all of the ingredients and whisk to combine.

To serve: Set a portion of perilla leaves in a small dish and garnish with sesame seeds. Arrange kimch'I buchim on a plate with a small bowl of dipping sauce on the side.

OB Lager

Seoul, Korea

Pickled (Serves 6) Peppers, Garlic, and Ramps

ingredients


For the pickled garlic and peppers:
3 heads garlic, peeled
1 1/2 pounds Korean twist peppers, pierced
through the center *
5 cups soy sauce
2 cups rice vinegar
1 cup brown sugar
For the pickled ramps:
1 pound ramps, bottoms cut 1 1/2-inches long
2 cups soy sauce
2 cups water, boiled and cooled to room temperature
Sesame oil to taste
Granulated sugar to taste
Red pepper paste to taste **
For the pepper sauce:
1 1/2 teaspoon sea salt
1 1/2 teaspoon toasted sesame seeds
4 tablespoons soy sauce
1 scallion, finely minced
1/4 onion, peeled and minced
1 clove garlic, peeled and minced
1 tablespoon Korean red pepper flakes ***
2 tablespoons sesame oil
1 tablespoon brown sugar
For the garnish:
Sesame seeds
Steamed white rice
Sliced cucumbers

Note: Makalee is an undistilled rice wine popular in Korea. It is
traditionally served chilled with a slice of cucumber. Available in
Korean markets.

* Korean twist peppers (Gwari goit-chu) are small, sweet, green peppers,
usually less than two inches long. Jalapeno peppers can be used as a
substitute.

** Korean red pepper paste (Goit-chujang) is made from dried Korean red
pepper. Available in Korean markets.

*** Korean red pepper is a dried, spicy, bright red pepper that comes in
four grades; powdered, flakes, crushed, and whole. Available in Korean
markets.

directions

For the pickled garlic and peppers: Place the garlic and peppers in separate, half-gallon jars. In a mixing bowl, combine soy sauce, vinegar, and sugar, and stir to dissolve. Divide the mixture in half and pour over the garlic and the peppers in their respective jars. Cover the tops with plastic wrap, ensuring that the surface is in contact with the liquid in each jar, and cover the jars. Keep in a cool area at 60 to 70 degrees for five days. Transfer to the refrigerator for 15 days. Strain the liquid from the jars and pour into separate saucepans. Bring the liquids to a boil and set aside to cool to room temperature. Return the respective liquids to their jars. cover and set aside in the refrigerator.

For the pickled ramps: combine ramps, soy sauce, and water, and transfer to a half-gallon jar. cover with the lid and store at room temperature for 72 hours. Strain the liquid from the jar into a saucepan, leaving the ramps in the jar. Bring the liquid to a boil and set aside to cool to room temperature. Pour the liquid into the jar with the ramps and refrigerate until chilled. Strain through a fine mesh sieve and transfer the ramps to a medium bowl, discarding the liquid. Season to taste with sesame oil, red pepper paste, and sugar, and set aside.

For the pepper sauce: In a medium bowl, combine all of the ingredients. Mix to combine and set aside.

To serve: Set a portion of pickled peppers on a plate and drizzle with the pepper sauce on top. Place a small portion of pickled garlic with pickling liquid in a small shallow bowl. Arrange seasoned pickled ramps in a small serving dish and sprinkle with sesame seeds. Serve with a bowl of steamed white rice and a cup of Makalee with sliced cucumber.

Makalee

Wong Go

Pochun, Korea

Pickled Oysters with Salt-Cured Croaker (Serves 4)

Ingredients


For the salt-cured croaker:
2 1/2 pound eroakers
2 tablespoons sea salt
2 tablespoons vegetable, oil
For the pickled oysters:
2 tablespoons sea salt
1/3 cup water, boiled and cooled to room temperature
12 medium sized oysters, shucked
2 tablespoons Korean red chili pepper powder *
Water as needed
For the garnish:
Sesame seeds
Steamed white rice

* Korean red chili pepper powder is ground from dried, spicy, red chili
peppers. Available in Korean markets.

Note: Chef Kwak sggests serving one croaker for two people.

Directions

For the salt-cured croaker: Place the croakers on a sheet pan and sprinkle evenly with the salt. Place in the refrigerator for 20 minutes. Transfer the fish to a wire rack and air for two days. In a saute pan, heat the oil over medium heat. Saute the fish until golden brown on both sides and drain on a paper towel-lined sheet pan.

For the spicy-pickled oysters: In a medium bowl, dissolve the salt in the water. Add the oysters and set aside for 20 minutes at room temperature. Strain the oysters, discarding the brine. Combine the chili pepper powder with a small amount of water. Add to the oysters and toss to coat. Place in a container, cover and refrigerate for thirty-six hours.

To serve: Spoon a portion of pickled oysters in a small dish and sprinkle with sesame seeds. Arrange a croaker on a plate and serve with steamed white rice.

Rice Wine

Jun Jang

Chungha, Korea

Kimch'i-Chigae with Marinated Soybeans (Serves 8)
Ingredients


For the marinated soybeans:
2 cups dried black soybeans *
2 cups water
2 cloves garlic, peeled and minced
1 cup soy sauce
1/3 cup vegetable oil
1/4 cup brown sugar
For the kimch'i chigae:
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 clove garlic, peeled and minced
7 ounces pork belly, thinly sliced
1 pound kimch'i, cut into 1-inch pieces **
1 cup kimch'i juice ***
1 cup water
8 ounces firm tofu, cubed
1 bunch scallions, cut into 1-inch pieces
For the garnish:
Sesame seeds
Sliced red chili peppers

Note: Soju is a vodka-like beverage made of sweet potato and is popular
in Korea and Japan.

* Chef Kwak notes that these soybeans are only cooked until semi-soft
and have a nuttier quality than beans cooked until soft. They are meant
to be eaten in small quantities during the meal. Available in Asian
markets.

** Kimch'i is commonly known as a spicy, pickled cabbage in Korea. Chef
Kwak 's recipe for kimch'i can be found on page 7

*** Kimch'i juice is the liquid that is produced during the fermentation
process for kimch'i and is used for cooking.

Directions

For the marinated soybeans: In a saucepan, combine the soybeans and water. Simmer over medium heat, about 20 minutes. Add the garlic, soy sauce, vegetable oil, and sugar. Continue to simmer, stirring occasionally until almost dry, about 15 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool. Transfer to a container, cover, and refrigerate.

For the kimch'i chigae: In a large saucepan, heat the oil. Add the garlic and pork. Saute until the pork is browned. Add the kimch'i, kimch'i juice, and water, and bring to a boil. Add the tofu and scallions and warm through. Remove from the heat and keep warm.

To serve: Set a portion of marinated soybeans in a small dish and sprinkle with sesame seeds. Serve the kimch'i chigae in a fondue-style pot. Garnish with sliced red chili peppers.

Soju

Andong

Kyungbuk, Korea