Patzcuaro: Tata Vasco's Legacy: Colonial city, a hub for handicrafts, maintains indigenous heritage.

The first time I visited Patzcuaro was some 20 years ago when I arrived a day late for the Day of the Dead. The restaurants had run out of food and the hotels were all full. And, to cap it all, I had to wander up and down the highway between Patzcuaro and Morelia past midnight searching for my inn. Patzcuaro is one of the biggest tourist attractions in the country come Nov. 1 and 2, when Mexico celebrates el Dia de los Muertos.

Every November, Mexicans remember their dear departed by erecting altars to the dead in their homes, visiting their graves and preparing elaborate meals for those no longer in this world. Colorful adornments, traditional music and noisy fireworks also play a key role in the celebrations.

My only thought at the time however was what a splendid tradition to honor the dead, but did this place ever think about feeding and lodging the living? Long after that first trip, my curiosity was piqued. Was it worth a second chance? I had to go back and find out ...

Instead of high season, I chose a time when visitors were at low ebb. I wanted to see authentic Patzcuaro, not frenetic Patzcuaro. After a leisurely 40-minute drive from Morelia, I found myself at the town's main square, a good starting point for any tour of a colonial city. In 1540, Bishop Vasco de Quiroga transferred the regional bishopric from the indigenous settlement of Tzintzuntzan to the colonial city of Patzcuaro, making it the capital of Michoacan.

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Gleaming, two-story whitewashed buildings with wrought-iron balconies and long, ornate porticos encircle the square. A statue of don Vasco de Quiroga keeps a watchful eye over the plaza that carries his name, and the palace of the last indigenous emperor of the Purepechas, the ancient name for the people of Michoacan, sits cattycorner to it. This seems fitting enough since Vasco de Quiroga and Antonio Hotzimenguario became friends. Frequently referred to as the benefactor of the indigenous, the priest was affectionately called "tata" as a sign of respect. Even today, Patzcuaro is more indigenous than Spanish because of the good father's influence.

I then strolled a few blocks north and climbed a small rise to the Casa de Once Patios (House of Eleven Patios), a former nuns' cloister. Here in the center for handicrafts, I watched artisans creating Michoacan lacquer, once used to decorate the gourds worn by indigenous nobles. Intricate in its manufacture, the lacquer is composed of linseed oil, garlic and oil from a tree worm that is used to seal in the colors. Reds come from the cochinilla bug and blues from the anil root, while other colors are derived from flowers.

Traditional lacquer designs look very oriental, a throwback to the days when Mexico traded with the Philippines. During that era, a lively cultural exchange was responsible for introducing much in the way of Asian art to Mexico.

Corn paste is another indigenous invention replicated at the Casa. In olden times, warriors fashioned deities out of the paste and carried them into battle as protection. If they were defeated, they burned the figures to prevent them from falling into the hands of the enemy.

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Many artisans sell their goods in shops off the inside patios. Among them are the famous textiles of Michoacan fashioned into tablecloths, napkins and place mats. Lacquer designs can also be found on everything from trays to boxes to furniture to earrings. It is a pleasant place to browse and stock up on high-quality gifts.

Patzcuaro is known for its lacquer and textiles because of the way the townships, which encircle Lake Patzcuaro, were set up by "Tata Vasco." He established village cooperatives that each produced one special handicraft. Santa Clara de Cobre, for example, makes copperware, Tzintzuntzan produces straw ornaments and Paracho turns out hand-made guitars. In this way, Vasco de Quiroga found a way for the indigenous to make a living for themselves.

The prelate also built la Basilica de Nuestra Senora de Salud (the Basilica of Our Lady of Health), which gave life to the town. A brisk walk west of the Casa de Once Patios, the 16th century house of prayer complimented the town hospital located across the street. Quiroga's mission was to build as many hospitals as he could to tend to the sick and dying. The basilica is also the final resting place of his remains. His mausoleum is opened once a year for viewing and the faithful still pray to the bishop for healings. Many hand-written letters of gratitude--some scrawled on paper from school notebooks--line the wall outside his chapel, a touching tableau.

The basilica is one of the few churches with a shrine behind the main altar. It is dedicated to St. Ramon of Spain, who sold himself as a slave in order to preach to prisoners. Legend tells us that when he was found out the authorities put a lock on his tongue, preventing him from speaking. Over the years, this has come to symbolize not taking the name of a person in vain or, in other words, not gossiping.

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Patzcuaro is perfect for either a day trip or a longer stay. With the latter in mind, Priscilla Ann Madsen opened the Mansion de los Suenos, a 17th century property that operates as a boutique hotel. The dynamic red-head, who never tires of extolling the charms of her adopted Mexican town, had this to say about living there: "Patzcuaro is one of those places where you encounter magic, spirituality and adventure. It has nice energy, very positive energy." She likens it to Sedona, Arizona, or Tepoztlan near Cuernavaca.

Madsen, a native of San Diego, California, first journeyed to Patzcuaro 34 years ago. She fell in love with the town and vowed to return one day to run a hotel, she said. Returning soon after to her "fast track" life as an owner of a chain of beauty salons, she never forgot the promise she made to herself. Divesting herself of the beauty businesses, she found her dream hotel in 1998.

Located a half block from the historic main square, the hotel exudes the nostalgia of Mexico's colonial era with its thick adobe walls, high beamed ceilings, exquisite gold-leafed trim, chandeliers, period antiques, and attractive hand-made wood furniture. The National Institute of Anthropology and History, or INAH, has even declared it a national monument. Mexicans have been investing in colonial hotels here all along, especially those surrounding the plaza. Madsen's property is the first one on Patzcuaro's main plaza to be declared a national monument and, hopefully, it will not be the last.

Among the handicrafts that Michoacan is famous for are masks. The village of Tucuaro near Patzcuaro is one of those small specks on a map that would be all but forgotten were it not for the Orta family. Two cousins, Juan and Gustavo, are mask makers who have shown their work in Europe and Japan to wide acclaim. Juan specializes in preserving masks used in traditional folk dances, some 150 years old. Gustavo carves masks from his imagination.

Gustavo, like his cousin, has his workshop in his modest adobe and brick house and visitors can make an appointment to come and see the master at work. In his backyard and open-air workshop, I watched Gustavo carefully chop away at a piece of tree trunk with his machete, preparing it for finer strokes later on. He specializes in devils and has been carving masks since he was 8 years old. He worked briefly as a carpenter in his teen-age years, but then decided to dedicate his life to masks instead. A family business, his sons also carve and his wife adds paint to the masks.

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Why devils? He explained that one night, during his time as a carpenter, he dreamed of a devil. The next day he carved his first devil mask. But he ended up drinking large quantities of spirits because he thought this was the only way to keep his creativity flowing. Many hangovers later, his creativity took on a life of its own, he said, and he stopped drinking. Now the only bottles he touches are sodas.

Gustavo sells his masks in outlets in the United States, France and South Korea. He was also the subject of a documentary made recently by the UK's BBC television network. He is reluctant to set up a shop in town because he fears that other artisans will copy his designs. By working out of his home, he keeps them exclusive, he says.

As I returned to Patzcuaro's main square in time to see it bathed in the glow of the setting sun, I found it easy to understand why people are drawn back to this place.

Story and photos by Patricia Alisau

Patricia Alisau is a travel writer based in San Antonio, Texas. She lived in Mexico for more than 20 years and still travels extensively throughout the country.