Paella ... more than your average rice dish.

PAELLA has a rich tradition reflecting many different cultures. Although there are countless variations of this popular dish, the basic ingredients of paella consist of medium short-grain rice, saffron, and olive oil; in addition, a wealth of garnishes including vegetables, meat, seafood, and herbs are added to create one of Spain's most celebrated dishes. Paella transforms simple rice--one of the world's most popular staples--into a complex and extraordinary meal.

History: it's actually interesting ...

Many of you who fell asleep during your language classes might think that the pa in paella might mean "pan," but you would be wrong; it actually means, "to drink." Derived from the Latin term pa (which originally comes from the Sanskrit language), paterna, patina, and patella all mean "a chalice or a culinary utensil used for frying." Patina and patella eventually became known as a pan or "paella" during Roman times.

When the Romans originally introduced the paella pan to Spain, it had a concave bottom. It has since evolved into a round, flat-bottomed pan which exposes the entire base to the heat. The pan stands about two to three inches tall and has handles on either side. Traditional paella, as most of us rice lovers know, actually originated in the Spanish region on the Mediterranean, known as Valencia.

Rice originated in Asia around 3000 BC, but the Moors introduced short grain rice used in Spanish paella in the eighth century AD. This basic food, which has served for centuries as the foundation of many dishes, was first introduced to two regions of Spain--Andalusia and Valencia, on the southern and eastern shores of the Mediterranean, respectively. In paella, short grain rice is far superior to long-grain rice, simply because the short grain variety soaks up all of the flavors added to the dish. Arroz bomba, the rice many Spanish restaurants use for paella, is very rare and expensive. It has a unique texture and absorbs liquid like a sponge.

Rice was grown successfully in Andalusia and Valencia because the Moors also introduced the concept of irrigation into these two regions. They channeled water from the mountains in order to grow the highly prized short grain rice. This irrigation system--combined with the high humidity and warm temperatures of the regions--created an ideal growing environment for rice and is still in use today. Saffron, another important ingredient in paella, was and is still widely cultivated in the eastern Mediterranean. Cultivating saffron takes a great deal of skill and is an incredibly labor-intensive flower to cultivate. It takes about 400,000 stigmas or 85,000 flowers to yield one pound of saffron. Grown today in the south of France and Spain and sold by the ounce, pure saffron is worth its weight in gold.

The Arabs introduced this valuable spice to Spain in the eighth century, and the Spanish began cultivating it themselves by 960 AD. It was used until the Middle Ages in cooking, medicine, the practice of magic, and, up to the Renaissance era, as both perfume and dye.

Depending on the region in which it was prepared, paella had many different variations. In Islamic Andalusia, dishes were based on rice and fish paired with spices and were mostly consumed at family and religious gatherings. As part of the Lenten season and when rice eventually became a staple in people's diet, vegetables, pulses, and dry cod were added to the mix. Along the coast, meals were always centered around fish, so in this case, the rice was eventually added to create paella that is most familiar to Americans.

Valencia, not just for oranges

According to the book Paella!, the items used in original Valencian paella include rice, saffron, water, chicken, rabbit, snails, green (Italian) peppers, onion, garlic, green beans, snap peas, artichoke hearts, tomatoes, parsley, paprika, rosemary, olive oil, and salt. At that time, the peasants had all of these ingredients at hand. (However, it is difficult to imagine that they would have had access to the frozen artichokes the recipe in the book suggests!) Today, according to The Oxford Companion to Food, authentic paella ingredients also include fresh butter beans--but not green Italian peppers, onion, garlic, snap peas, artichoke hearts, parsley, or rosemary.

In order for paella to be truly authentic, it must have a thin, crusty brown (and sometimes even burned) layer of rice at the bottom of the pan called the socarrat or quemado. This crust is considered to be a fundamental part of the dish; in fact, it is a sought after treat that is often savored after the main part of the paella is consumed.

It's a "man's job"

Preparing paella in Valencia is considered a "man's job." We all know what that entails: Many men (perhaps chefs can be excluded from this scenario), who might not even think of stepping foot in the kitchen except to eat, pride themselves on cooking paella. According to the author of A Season in Spain, these same men argue vehemently over the correct way to prepare and cook paella. One such argument involves determining the correct ratio of water to rice and the manner in which the water should be added. Another controversy involves whether it is best to cook paella in the oven, on the top of the stove, or over an open fire. To make matters more complicated, advocates of the open-fire method have heated debates about what type of wood is most effective in cooking paella.

In earlier times, however, paella was always cooked over an open fire. Along the Mediterranean coast, the only wood available was an occasional log, vine shoots, and the branches from a pruned tree. These types of vegetation maintained the embers at a constant heat because of the acid composition of the wood. Today, it is generally conceded that cooking paella over an open fire is the best, as this method infuses the paella with an unmistakable smoky flavor.

10,000 pounds of paella

Paella is often cooked for large groups of people. Known in their region for their paella cooking skills, chefs called "paella maestros" go on tour to show off their talents. They will cook for hundreds--even thousands--of people using one huge pan. The Guinness Book of World Records documents one instance in which paella was made for 50,000 people using 10,000 pounds of rice with the paella pan measuring 60 feet across. More realistically, paella is frequently sold in restaurants as a dinner for two.

Today in Spain, most people regard paella as a dietary staple eaten every day as a main meal, usually for lunch and sometimes for dinner. Valencians consume more than fifty pounds of rice a year per person, and much of this rice is found in paella. Paella suits every taste and budget: Based upon what ingredients one decides to add to it, paella can be a poor man's dish or an extravagant blend of expensive meats and seafood.

So, invite about 50,000 people to your restaurant and drag out your 60-foot paella pan. Cook up some rice with saffron and olive oil over an open fire, clean out your walk-in, and have a paella party. Make sure to give everyone a traditional triangular-shaped spoon to get the full effect--and maybe a sangria or two!

Paella with Mushrooms and Asparagus

(Serves 4)

ingredients

For the paella:
4 tablespoons olive oil
1 leek, white part only, finely chopped
1 green pepper, seeded and finely chopped
1 small onion, peeled and finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped
4 sprigs parsley, stemmed and chopped
8 ounces assorted mushrooms
1 tomato, chopped
1/4 teaspoon saffron
1/4 cup white wine
2 cups vegetable stock
8 ounces Spanish short grain rice
4 ounces asparagus, peeled and
  cut into 1/2-inch pieces
4 ounces lava beans
Salt to taste

For the garlic dressing:
2 cloves garlic, peeled
  and finely chopped
4 sprigs parsley, stemmed
  and chopped
3 tablespoons extra
  virgin olive oil
Salt and pepper to taste

For the garnish:
Julienned piquillo peppers

directions:

For the paella: Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Place a large paella pan over medium heat and add the oil. Add the leek, pepper, and onion and cook until tender. Add the garlic, parsley, and mushrooms and saute until lightly browned. Add the tomato and saffron and cook for two minutes. Add the wine; bring to a boil and cook for one minute. Add the vegetable stock and rice; bring to a simmer and cook for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally. Transfer to a clay casserole dish. Season with salt and add asparagus and lava beans. Place in the oven and cook for five minutes. Remove from the oven and set aside, keeping warm.

For the garlic dressing: In a bowl, add the garlic, parsley, and olive oil. Season with salt and pepper. Whisk to combine and set aside.

To serve: Serve in the clay casserole dish. Drizzle with the garlic dressing and garnish with the piquillo peppers.

Mas Igneus, FA104

Mas Igneus

Priorat, Spain 2000

marianoAZNAR

Gifted with an engaging smile and an infectious zest for life, Chef Mariano Aznar possesses a personality and genuine generosity surpassed only by the authentic and flavorful Spanish cuisine that comes out of his kitchen. Cooking in a professional kitchen at the age of thirteen, Aznar recalls his earliest memories of the business as harsh. Yet, during his twenty-four years in the kitchen, he has been able to use those memories to his advantage: "At age thirteen, I was in school but not very happy. I wanted to make money instead. I wanted to work. I was lucky in that I found a job cooking right away. I was cooking French Catalan in Barcelona, Spain. I worked for a very tough French chef who treated his staff poorly. I remember, at that young age, crying every night while waiting for a bus to take me home after my shift. But, I did take away something from that experience and that something was discipline. I also vowed that if I ever got my own restaurant kitchen, I'd never treat my staff the way I was treated. I still believe in teaching my staff discipline, but there's always fun involved--it keeps up the morale."

One would think that Chef Aznar had garnered his knowledge of and practical experience in Spanish cuisine while living in Spain for so many years. Not so. While there, he cooked the cuisine of his neighbors in French Catalan: "I expected to learn about Spanish food while in Spain but literally learned more about the cuisine while working in New York City. I don't like to fight with ingredients. Spanish cuisine speaks for itself. When guests come to Solera, I know it's for original Spanish food--food that is true to its country. Diners come for good food, good wine, and good sangria. I want them to feel like they're dining in Spain and get the total experience. And for those that are actually from Spain--I want them to feel like they're getting a little bit of home. We have some regulars that eat here five days a week--so we must be doing something right!"

After a twelve-year stint as the chef of Park Avenue Cafe, any sane person would take a break, but not David Burke. He recalls his days at the restaurant: "I had so many things going on I was just twisted. I was spinning and flying all over the place. It's time to pull back, get organized, take in a few offers, and build a team again ... then back to the restaurant business."

He is currently working on his newest endeavor, The David Burke Restaurant, which will likely debut at the beginning of 2004. According to Burke, "I'd like to combine the elements of everything I've done thus far, like [taking] some of the whimsical, creative things and [intertwining] them with some all-American, heartier things. I want to find a happy medium between both." In addition, efficiency is crucial to Burke; he wants nothing on the table when the guests arrive. "Why should a table be set for four and then when a table of two arrives, the waiter has to come and clear away two settings? It's a nuisance and a waste of work," says Burke.

His future restaurant isn't the only thing that keeps Burke busy. With one book--Cooking with David Burke--under his chef's hat, he is working on another unique cookbook entitled David Burke's Updated American Classics. The book will feature classic all-American recipes as well as updated versions of those recipes; in addition, the book will include a "leftover" recipe for each of the updated recipes. His goal is to inspire people to think creatively. According to Burke, "The whole book flows that way, whether you buy it for the contemporary, creative aspect or you just take it off the shelf and say, 'Hey, we have two pork chops left; let's see what he does.' Most people will experiment a little more with leftovers because they don't feel like they're wasting [food] so they'll take a chance."

However, if Burke isn't working on his restaurant or his cookbook, you can find him consulting with ARAMARK[TM] and Duck Trap River Farms--a smoked fish company--or expanding his appetizer or lollipop businesses. Originally, GourmetPops[TM] began offering smoked salmon lollipops, which were featured in Art Culinaire, Issue 61. He currently has a cheesecake line of pops, which is doing very well. "I mean, the cheesecake pops are fairly new, and they're really taking off," says Burke. He is also developing his Gourmetizers[TM], a box of twenty-four frozen gourmet appetizers, due out this fall. They include crab cakes, Reuben tarts, vegetable spring rolls, shrimp quiches, and smoked chicken cordon bleu appetizers, all of which can be cooked at the same time.

For obvious reasons, Burke won't quit; he's too ambitious: "I just ended a twelve-year run and I'm ready for the next challenge. I think I'm at the right age now to know what to do and what not to do and young and smart enough to do it right. I still have the energy to beat down the house a little bit, he creative, inspire people, and not be lazy. I've never been lazy. So it doesn't matter where I work; I'm always going to work the same."

Catalan Pasta Paella

(Serves 4)

ingredients

For the broth:
8 ounce's white fleshed fish bones
2 cups cold water
1 bay leaf
1 sprig thyme

For the paella:
3 tablespoons olive oil
8 ounces capellini pasta, broken
  into 1-inch pieces
6 shrimp, shelled and deveined
4 ounces monkfish, cleaned and
  cut into 1/2-inch cubes
4 ounces squid tubes and tentacles,
  cleaned, tubes sliced into 1/2-inch ring
1 small onion, peeled and finely chopped
4 cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped
1 green pepper, seeded and finely chopped
1 tomato, chopped
1/4 teaspoon saffron
1 teaspoon Spanish paprika
4 springs parsley, stemmed and chopped
Reserved broth
10 mussels
10 Manila clams
Salt and pepper to taste

For the garlic dressing:
2 cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped
4 springs parsley, stemmed and chopped
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
Salt and pepper to taste

For the garnish:
Julienned piquillo peppers

directions

For the broth: In a large saucepan over medium heat, combine the fish bones, water, bay leaf, and thyme. Bring to a boil; reduce the heat and simmer for 30 minutes. Remove from the heat; strain through a fine mesh sieve and set aside, keeping warm.

For the paella: Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Place a large paella pan over medium-high heat and add two tablespoons of oil. Add the pasta and cook until golden brown. Remove the pasta and set aside. Heat the remaining oil in the same pan. Season the shrimp with salt and pepper and cook for one minute. Remove from the pan and set aside. Season the monkfish and squid with salt and pepper and cook for two minutes in the same pan. Remove from the pan and set aside. Add the onion, garlic, and pepper and cook until tender. Add the tomato and cook for two minutes. Add the reserved pasta, saffron, paprika and parsley and mix to combine. Add the reserved broth; bring to a boil and cook for six minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the reserved shrimp, monkfish, and squid. Mix in the mussels and clams; season with salt and pepper. Place in the oven; cook for four minutes. Remove from the oven and set aside, keeping warm.

For the garlic dressing: In a bowl, add the garlic, parsley, and olive oil. Season with salt and pepper. Whisk to combine and set aside.

To serve: Serve in the paella pan. Drizzle with the dressing and garnish with the piquillo peppers.

Llopart Leopardi Brut Reserve

Bodegas Llopart

Penedes, Spain 1994

marianoAZNAR

Paella Valenciana

(Sevres 4)

ingredients

For the paella:
4 tablespoons olive oil
8 ounces chicken wings, cleaned
8 ounces rabbit legs, cleaned and halved
4 ounces green beans, halved lengthwise
4 ounces snow peas
4 fava beans
1 small onion, peeled and finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped
1 green pepper, seeded and finely chopped
1 tomato, chopped
2 sprigs parsley, stemmed and chopped
1/4 teaspoon saffron
1/2 teaspoon Spanish paprika
8 ounces Spanish short grain rice
2 1/2 cups chicken stock, hot
Salt to taste

For the garlic dressing:
2 cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped
4 sprigs parsley, stemmed and chopped
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
Salt and pepper to taste

For the garnish:
Julienned piquillo peppers

directions

For the paella: Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Place a large paella pan over-high heat and add then oil. Add the chicken and rabbit and cook until golden brown, about five minutes. Remove the chicken and rabbit and set aside. Add the been beans, snow peas, and fava beans; cook until tender and remove from the pan; set aside. In the same pan, add the onion, garlic, and pepper and cook until tender. Add the tomato and parsley; saute for one minute and add the saffron and paprika. Add the rice and stock and bring to a boil. Add the reserved chicken and rabbit and cook for five minutes, stirring occasionally. Season with salt; place in the oven and cook until the rice is tender, about 15 minutes. Remove from the oven and add the reserved green beans, snow peas, and fava beans.

For the garlic dressing: In a small bowl, add the garlic, parsley, and olive oil. Season with salt and pepper. Whisk to combine and set aside.

To serve: Serve in the paella pan. Drizzle with the garlic dressing and garnish with the piquillo peppers.

Muga Reserva

Bodegas Muga S.A.

Rioja Alta, Spain 1998

mariano AZNAR

Squid Ink Paella with Monkfish

(Serves 4)

ingredients

For the broth:
12 ounces white fleshed fish bones
3 cups cold water
1 bay leaf
1 sprig thyme

For the aioli:
1 eggyolk
2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
1 clove garlic, peeled and chopped
1/2 teaspoon Spanish paprika
2/3 cup vegetable oil
1/3 cup olive oil
Lemon juice to taste
Salt and white pepper to taste

For the paella:
3 tablespoons olive oil
4 ounces squid tubes and tentacles,
  cleaned, rubes sliced into 1/2-inch rings
4 ounces cuttlefish, cleaned,
  cut into 1/2 inch cubes
1 small onion, peeled and finely chopped
3 doves garlic, peeled and finely chopped
1 bay leaf
1 sprig thyme
1 green pepper, seeded and finely chopped
1 tomato, chopped
1 sprig parsley, stemmed and chopped
2 tablespoons squid ink
8 ounces Spanish short grain rice
Reserved broth
Salt and pepper to taste

For the dish:
1/2 pound monkfish fillets, cut
  into 1/2 inch picots
Olive oil as needed
Salt and pepper to taste

For the garnish:
Julienned piquillo peppers

directions

For the broth: In a large saucepan over medium heat, combine the fish bones, water, bay leaf, and thyme. Bring to a boil; reduce the heat and simmer for 30 minutes. Remove from the heat; strain through a fine mesh sieve and set aside, keeping warm.

For aioli: In a bowl, add the egg yolk, mustard, garlic, and paprika and whisk to combine. Slowly drizzle in the vegetable and olive oil in a thin steady stream while whisking constantly until well combined and smooth. Season with lemon juice, salt, and pepper.

For the paella: Preheat the oven to degrees 400 degrees. Place a large paella pan on medium-high heat and add two tablespoons of olive oil. Season the squid and cuttlefish with salt and pepper and cook for two minutes. Remove from the pan and set aside. Heat the remaining oil in the same pan. Add the onion, garlic, bay leaf, thyme, and pepper and cook until lightly browned, about 10 minutes. Add the tomato and parsley and cook for two minutes. Add the squid ink and rice and mix to combine. Add the reserved broth; bring to a boil and cook for five minutes, stirring occasionally. Season with salt and pepper and place in the oven and cook for 13 minutes. Add the reserved squid and cuttlefish and cook until rice is tender, about two additional minutes. Remove from the oven; remove the bay leaf and thyme and set aside, keeping warm.

For the dish: Prepare a hot grill. Season the monkfish with olive oil, salt, pepper. Mark both sides of the fillets on the grill and cook to desired doneness

To serve: Spoon a portion of paella onto a plate. Arrange the monkfish on top and garnish with the aioli and piquillo peppers.

Allende

Finca Allende

Rioja, Spain 1998

mariano AZNAR

Paella Marinera

(Serves 4)

ingredients

For the lobster stock:
1 lobster, shell only, reserve meat
3 cups cold water
1 sprig thyme
1 bay leaf
1/4 teaspoon saffron

For the paella:
2 tablespoons olive oil
4 ounces squid and tentacles,
  cleaned, tubes sliced into 1/2 -inch rings
Reserved lobster meat
4 ounces scallops, halved
6 shrimp, shells on
1 small onion, peeled and finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, peeled
  and finely chopped
1 green pepper, seeded and chopped
1 red pepper, seeded and chopped
2 sprigs parsley, stemmed and chopped
1 tomato, chopped
1/2 teaspoon, Spanish paprika
8 ounces Spanish short grain rice
Reserved lobster stock
6 mussels
6 Manila clams
3 ounces shelled green peas
Salt and pepper to taste

For the garlic dressing:
2 cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped
4 sprigs parsley, stemmed and chopped
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
Salt and pepper to taste

For the garnish:
Julienned piquillo peppers

directions

For the lobster stock: In a large saucepan over medium heat, combine the lobster shells, water, thyme, bay leaf, and saffron. Bring to a boil; reduce the heat and simmer for 30 minutes. Strain through a fine mesh sieve and set aside, keeping warm.

For the paella: Preheat the oven to Degrees. Place a large paella pan on medium-high heat and add the oil. Season the squid and reserved lobster meat, scallops, and shrimp with salt and pepper and cook for one minute. Remove from the pan and set aside. Add the onion, garlic, peppers, and cook until tender. Add the tomato and cook for four minutes. Add the paprika and rice; mix to coat and cook for one minute. Add the reserved lobster stock; bring to boil and cook for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the reserved lobster meat and cook for four minutes. Add the reserved squid, scallops, and shrimp. Mix in the mussels, clams, and peas. Season with salt and pepper; place in the oven and cook for four minutes. Remove from the oven and set aside, keeping warm.

For the garlic dressing: In a bowl, combine the garlic, parsley, and olive oil. Season with salt and pepper. Whisk to combine and set aside.

To serve: Serve in the paella pan. Drizzle with the garlic dressing and garnish with the piquillo peppers.

Gran Bazan Ambar

Agro de Bazan S.A.

Rias Baixas, Spain 2001

mariano AZNAR

Sea Urchin "Rice Pudding" Paella

(Serves 8)

ingredients

For the paella:

2 tablespoons butter
1/4 cup chopped chorizo
2 shallots, peeled and
  finely chopped
1 clove garlic, peeled and
  finely chopped
1 red pepper, seeded
  and finely chopped
1 cup Arborio rice
2 cups chicken stock
1 tablespoon chopped oregano
2 teaspoons saffron
2 teaspoons chopped chives
12 mussels, cooked, shelled,
  and chopped
8 ounces lobster, cooked,
  shelled, and chopped
Salt and pepper to taste

For the custard:
4 tablespoons butter
6 shallots, peeled and chopped
6 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped
1 red pepper, seeded and chopped
1 pound shrimp shells
1 cup tomato coulis
1 tablespoon saffron
2 pints heavy cream
6 eggs
Salt and pepper to taste

For the sea urchin:
8 large California sea urchins
Reserved paella
16 thin slices chorizo, cut lengthwise
2 tablespoons butter
1 cup, sweet peas, blanched
1 small tomato, chopped

For the garnish:
3 tablespoons chopped chives
2 tablespoons chopped oregano
Reserved chorizo slices

For the paella: Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Place a medium paella pan over medium heat and melt the butter. Render the chorizo; add the shallots, garlic and pepper and cook until the shallots turn translucent. Add the rice and cook for three minutes. Add the stock, oregano, saffron, and chives. Bring to a simmer until rice is cooked through, about 20 minutes. Add the mussels and lobster; season with salt and pepper. Set aside, keeping warm.

For the custard: Place a medium saucepan over medium heat and melt the butter. Add the shallots, garlic, and pepper and cook until the shallots turn translucent. Add the shrimp shells, tomato coulis, saffron, and heavy cream. Simmer for 15 minutes. Strain the mixture through a fine mesh sieve. In a bowl, add the eggs and whisk. Temper the eggs, adding one-third of the hot mixture while whisking constantly. Whisk the tempered egg mixture into the hot mixture; season with salt and pepper and set aside.

For the sea urchin: Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Cut a hole in the top of each sea urchin and reserve the tops. Scoop out the uni and set aside. Place two ounces of paella into the sea urchin and top with four ounces of the custard. Place each sea urchin in a waterbath covered with foil and place into the oven until custard is set, about 45 minutes. Set the chorizo slices on a sheet pan; place into the oven and cook until crisp. Reserve the chorizo slices and pour the rendered oil into a small saute pan. Add the butter and melt over medium heat; add the uni, peas, and tomato. Cook until heated through and top the custard with the mixture.

To serve: Place one sea urchin on a plate and garnish with the chives and oregano. Top the rim of the sea urchin with the chorizo slices. Garnish the plate with the top of the sea urchin.

Riesling, Spatlese

JJ Prum

Mosel-Saar Ruwer, Germany 2001

david BURKE

Rabbit Stuffed with Lobster Paella

(Serves 4)

For the paella:
2 tablespoons butter
1/4 cup chopped chorizo
2 shallots, peeled and finely chopped
1 clove garlic, peeled and
  finely chopped
1 red pepper, seeded and
  finely chopped
1 cup Arborio rice
2 cups chicken stock
1 tablespoon chopped oregano
2 teaspoons saffron
2 teaspoons chopped chives
12 mussels, cooked, shelled,
  and chopped
8 ounces lobster, cooked,
  shelled and chopped
Salt and pepper to taste

For the rabbit and sauce:
2 rabbit saddles, boned
Caul fat as needed
Olive oil as needed
2 rabbit racks, frenched
4 rabbit kidneys
1/4 bunch sage, stemmed and chopped
1/4 bunch thyme, stemmed
  and chopped
1 shallot, peeled and finely chopped
1/2 red pepper, seeded and
  finely chopped
1/4 cup clam juice
1 cup white wine
2 cups pea shoots
16 cockles
8 ounces butter
Salt and pepper to taste

For the lobster:
2 cups olive oil
1/4 bunch chives, chopped
1/4 bunch thyme, stemmed
2 lobster tails, cut each tail into
  two pieces cross-wise

For the garnish:
Thyme sprigs

directions

For the paella: Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Place a large paella pan over medium heat and melt the butter. Render the chorizo; add the shallots, garlic, and pepper and cook until shallots turn translucent. Add the rice and cook for three minutes. Add the stock, oregano, saffron, and chives. Bring to a simmer until rice is cooked through, about 20 minutes. Add the mussels and lobster; season with salt and pepper. Set aside, keeping warm.

For the rabbit and sauce: Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Lay out the saddles and spread one cup of paella in each. Roll up the stuffed saddles and wrap separately in caul fat. Season with salt and pepper and tie string around each saddle to secure the caul fat. Place a large saute pan over medium-high heat and add the oil. Season the racks and kidneys with salt and pepper. Add the saddles, racks, kidneys, sage, and thyme to the pan and brown on all sides. Remove the rack and kidneys and set aside, keeping warm. Place the saddles in the oven for 12 minutes and add the rack and kidneys back to the pan. On the stovetop, cook until desired doneness. Remove the saddles, racks, and kidneys from the pan and cut each saddle into four pieces. In the same pan, combine the shallot and pepper over medium heat. Cook until the shallot turns translucent. Deglaze the pan with the clam juice and white wine. Bring to a boil; reduce the heat and simmer. Add the pea shoots and cockles. Cover the pan and cook until the cockles open. Add the butter and season with salt and pepper to taste. Set aside, keeping warm.

For the lobster: Prepare a hot grill. In a container, combine the olive off, chives, and thyme. Add the lobster and marinate for one hour. Remove from the marinade and season with salt and pepper. Place the lobster on the grill and cook until desired doneness.

To serve: Place two pieces of rabbit saddle, one rabbit rack, one kidney, one piece of lobster, and paella on a plate. Drizzle the entire dish with the sauce and garnish with the Cockles. Pea shoots, and thyme sprig.

Pinot Noir

Flowers, Camp Meeting Ridge

Sonoma, California 1999

david BURKE

Asparagus Paella with Chicken Wings and Frog's Leg's

(Serves 4)

ingredients

For the asparagus broth:
48 stalks asparagus
4 1/2 cups chicken stock
2 cups spinach leaves
Salt and pepper to taste

For the paella:
24 chicken wings, flat center section
Reserved 2-inch pieces asparagus
1/4 cup olive oil
12 sets frog's legs, separated
  and frenched
Flour as needed
1/2 cup chopped chorizo
1/2 onion, peeled and finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped
2 red peppers, seeded and
  finely chopped
2 cups Spanish short grain rice
4 cups asparagus broth
1 bay leaf
1 teaspoon chopped oregano
2 teaspoons saffron
Salt and pepper to taste

For the dish:
1 teaspoon olive oil
1 clove garlic, peeled
  and finely chopped
1 tomato, chopped
Reserved frog's legs
Chervil sprigs
Salt and pepper to taste

directions

For the asparagus broth: Peel the asparagus; cut off the tips into 2-inch pieces and reserve for the chicken wings. Reserve the trimmings. Place a medium saucepan over medium heat and combine the asparagus trimmings and chicken stock. Bring to a boil; reduce the heat and simmer for 10 minutes. Add the spinach, salt, and pepper; simmer for an additional five minutes and strain through a fine mesh sieve. Set aside, keeping warm.

For the paella: Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Stuff the chicken wings along the bones with two tips of asparagus and season with salt and pepper. Place a large copper pan over medium-high heat and add the oil. In two separate batches, sear the chicken wings until golden brown. Remove from the pan and set aside, keeping warm. Season the frog's legs with salt and pepper and dredge in the flour. In the same pan, add the frog's legs and cook until desired doneness. Set aside, keeping warm. In the same pan, render the chorizo. Add the onion, garlic, and peppers and cook until the onion turns translucent. Add the rice and cook for three minutes. Add the broth, bay leaf, oregano, saffron, salt, and pepper. Bring to a simmer and place the chicken wings around the perimeter of the pan. Place in the oven until the rice and chicken wings are cooked through, about 20 minutes.

For the dish: Place a small saute pan over medium heat and add the oil. Add the garlic and tomato and season with salt and pepper. Cook for four minutes. Garnish the paella with frog's legs and chervil and spoon the tomato mixture over the frog's legs; serve as shown.

Gran Feudo Rose

Juan Chivite

Navarra, Spain 2001

david BURKE

Paella Cakes with Yellow Pepper Barbecue Squab

(Serves 6)

ingredients

For the paella cakes:
2 tablespoons butter
1/4 cup chopped chorizo
2 shallots, peeled and finely chopped
1 clove garlic, peeled and finely chopped
1 red pepper, seeded
  and finely chopped
1 cup Arborio rice
2 cups chicken stock
1 tablespoon chopped oregano
2 teaspoons saffron
2 teaspoons chopped chives
12 mussels, cooked, shelled, and chopped
8 ounces cooked, shelled,
  and chopped lobster
3 tablespoons olive oil
Salt and pepper to taste

For the barbecue sauce:
1 tablespoons olive oil
2 shallots, peeled and finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1 teaspoon chili powder
1 teaspoon ground coffee
4 yellow peppers, steamed, peeled
  seeded, and chopped
1 pinch saffron
1/2 cup honey
1/2 cup sherry vinegar
2 tablespoons lemon juice
Zest of 3 lemons
1/2 cup chicken stock
Salt and pepper to taste

For the green sauce:
1/4 bunch parsley, stemmed and blanched
1/4 bunch chives, stemmed and blanched
1/4 bunch tarragon, stemmed and blanched
1/4 bunch chervil, stemmed and blanched
1/2 cup olive oil
Salt and pepper to taste

For the olive sauce:
1/2 cup pitted nicoise olives
1/4 cup olive oil
Salt and pepper to taste

For the squab:
6 squabs, halved
Chorizo oil
Reserved barbecue sauce
Salt and pepper to taste

For the garnish:
Sunflower sprouts
Chorizo oil

directions

For the paella cakes: Place a medium paella pan over medium heat and melt the butter Render the chorizo; add the shallots, garlic, and pepper and cook until the shallots turn translucent. Add the rice and cook for three minutes. Add the stock, oregano, saffron, and chives. Bring to a simmer until the rice is cooked through, about 20 minutes. Add the mussels, lobster, salt, and pepper and mix to combine. Transfer the paella into six 3 1/2-inch ring molds and refrigerate for one hour. Place a large saute pan over medium heat and add the oil. Place the paella cakes, with the ring molds, in the pan and saute until golden brown. Remove from the pan and set aside, keeping warm.

For the barbecue sauce: Place a medium saucepan over medium heat and add the oil. Add the shallots and garlic and cook until translucent. Add the cumin, cayenne, chili powder, and coffee and cook until aromatic. Add the peppers, saffron, honey, vinegar, lemon juice, zest, and stock. Simmer for 25 minutes and transfer to a blender. Season with salt and pepper and puree until smooth. Reserve for the squab.

For the green sauce: In a blender, puree the herbs with the olive oil and season with salt and pepper.

For the olive sauce: In a blender, puree the olives with the olive oil and season with salt and pepper.

For the squab: Prepare a hot grill. Season the squab with chorizo oil, salt, and pepper. Place the squab on the grill and baste with the barbecue sauce halfway through the cooking process. Cook until desired doneness.

To serve: Set the paella cake on a dinner plate and layer with the sunflower sprouts and squab; garnish with additional sunflower sprouts. Drizzle the green sauce, olive sauce, and chorizo oil on the plate.

Syrah

Joseph Phelps

Napa, California 1999

david BURKE

Billy Bi with Paella-Stuffed Mussels

(Serves 4)

ingredients

For the billy bi:
2 tablespoons olive oil
4 cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped
8 shallots, peeled and finely chopped
3 ribs celery, chopped
2 cups white wine
2 cups chicken stock
1 bay leaf
4 dozen mussels
3 cups heavy cream
4 ounces sweet butter
1 teaspoon cornstarch
1 teaspoon water
1 tablespoon saffron
Salt and pepper to taste

For the paella:
2 tablespoons butter
1/4 cup chopped chorizo
2 shallots, peeled and finely chopped
1 clove garlic, peeled and finely chopped
1 red pepper, seeded
  and finely chopped
1 cup Arborio rice
2 cups chicken stock
1 tablespoon chopped oregano
2 teaspoons saffron
2 teaspoons chopped chives
Reserved chopped mussels
8 ounces lobster, cooked, shelled,
  and chopped
Reserved 30 mussel shells
Salt and pepper to taste

For the game:
Reserved chopped mussels
Chives, chopped

directions

For the billy bi: Place a medium saucepan over medium heat and add the oil. Add the garlic, shallots, and celery and cook until the shallots turn translucent. Add the wine, chicken stock, and bay leaf. Bring to a boil; reduce the heat and add the mussels. Cover the pan and cook the mussels until they open. Strain the stock through a fine mesh sieve and return to a saucepan. Bring to a boil; reduce the heat and simmer until reduced by half. Shuck the mussels and reserve 30 shells. Chop the mussel meat and reserve half for the paella and half for the soup, keeping warm. Add the cream and butter to the stock. In a small bowl, combine the cornstarch and water and whisk into the soup; cook until thickened. Season with salt and pepper. Divide the soup into two separate batches and add the saffron to one batch. Allow the saffron to steep for five minutes. Set aside, keeping warm.

For the paella: Preheat the broiler. Place a medium paella pan over medium heat and melt the butter. Render the chorizo; add the shallots, garlic, and pepper and cook until the shallots turn translucent. Add the rice and cook for three minutes. Add the stock, oregano, saffron, and chives. Bring to a simmer until the rice is cooked through, about 20 minutes. Remove from the heat and add the mussels, lobster, salt, and pepper to taste and cool until cool enough to handle. Separate the mussel shells into halves and stuff them with paella. Set on a sheet tray and place under the broiler until golden brown.

To serve: Divide the chopped mussels between four soup bowls. Simultaneously pour the two separate batches of soups into separate sides of the soup bowls to create a bi-colored soup. Arrange 15 paella stuffed mussels around each soup bowl as shown and top the soup with chives.

Chardonnay

Shafer Vineyards, Red Shoulder Ranch

Napa, California 2001

david BURKE

Roast Turkey Paella

(Serves 8)

ingredients

For the paella:
3 tablespoons butter
1 1/2 pounds chorizo, chopped
1 large onion, peeled and finely chopped
6 cloves gallic, peeled and finely chopped
1 1/2 red peppers, seeded and chopped
1 1/2 large tomatoes, chopped
3 cups Spanish short grain rice
6 cups turkey, stock
2 tablespoons saffron
12 littleneck clams
12 large shrimp
12 mussels
Salt and pepper to taste

For the turkey:
1 7-pound organic turkey
Olive oil as needed
1/4 bunch oregano, stemmed and chopped
Salt and pepper to taste

For the garnish:
1 1/2 cups sweet peas, blanched
Assorted chopped herbs (parsley,
  thyme, and oregano)

directions

For the paella: Place a large paella pan over medium heat and melt the butter. Render the chorizo; add the onion, garlic, peppers, and tomatoes. Cook until the onion turns translucent. Add the rice and cook for three minutes; add the stock and saffron. Bring to a simmer and cook for 18 minutes. Add the clams, shrimp, and mussels. Cover and cook for five minutes until the rice and shellfish are cooked through. Season with salt and pepper and set aside, keeping warm.

For the turkey: Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Truss the legs and season with olive oil, oregano, salt, and pepper, inside and out. On a roasting rack, position the turkey to stand on end. Place a foil ring around the turkey to stabilize it and place in the oven. Roast until desired aloneness, about two hours.

To serve: Transfer the turkey to a platter; fill the cavity and surround the turkey with paella, peas, and herbs.

Gran Muralles

Miguel Torres

Penedes, Spain 1998

david BURKE