PRIME TIME PANACHE COSTUME DESIGNERS TURN TELEVISION'S WORKING STIFFS INTO THE WORKING CLASS.

Byline: Barbara De Witt Fashion Editor

Power purses, silk blouses with open collars, fitted tweed suits. Career classics with '40s flair and a ladylike neatness are back, and the fall TV lineup reflects the trend.

And even the men are more sartorially correct.

Whether it's a prime-time favorite like ``West Wing,'' ``Law & Order'' or ``Judging Amy'' or one of the new dramas such as ``The District,'' ``The $treet'' or ``Deadline,'' costumers are making the professionals look more professional, observes Bobbe Aiona, manager of the Studio Services department at Bloomingdale's in Sherman Oaks, where many of the clothes for these shows are purchased by TV costumers.

``From the looks of what TV costumers and stylists are pulling for the fall season, I'd say women's skirts are longer (to the knee or just below), worn with dainty pumps, while pants are more tailored and worn over boots, and jackets are long and fitted,'' says Aiona. ``I've also noticed that there's not so much interest in bare legs this fall, as many of the shows are choosing opaque or textured hosiery for the female actors.''

Brand names? Forget Armani, as costumers are more likely to suit their TV attorneys, stock brokers and white collar workers in traditional career brands such as Jones New York, Anne Klein, Donna Karan, Tahari and Ellen Tracy.

And it's the same for menswear. Conservative brands in conservative dark suits, sometimes in navy pinstripes and usually single breasted jackets, are what they're choosing for the actors, Aiona says.

Executives, especially those on NBC's ``West Wing,'' will continue to wear dress shirts in either white or cream, while other costumers are buying into the dramatic monochromatic solid color shirt-and-tie style of Regis Philbin on ``Who Wants to Be a Millionaire.'' Whether it's white, midnight blue or sage green, men's shirts, however, are dressy. Designers are smitten with suits.

Costume designers Rebecca and Patricia Field, who were recently hired to dress the stars of Fox's new Wall Street traders drama ``The $treet,'' will do their best to spice up the cast's basic black suits (altered a bit to enhance the actresses' figures) and show a lot of bare arms when jackets are removed after hours.

But don't expect any major trends like nameplate necklaces, anklet socks with pumps and big flower corsages that the Fields started on ``Sex and the City.''

``Since 'The $treet' really focuses on working people who are all in the same business,'' says Rebecca Field, ``we can't funk it up like we do on 'Sex and the City,' but you'll see a few emerging trends, like gold cuffs on the wrist, and oversized brooches at the neckline or even the waist of a wrap-front blouse. And we'll be using really thin silk scarves - in solids, Pucci or python prints - knotted in the center like a tie or or tucked into a fitted blouse in a way that's a little like an ascot but more rock 'n' roll.''

The blouse, by the way, is the biggest news in the workplace wardrobe.

``Gone are the tight sweaters and twin sets, and back in style is the silk shirt, worn open to give a longer neckline,'' says ``West Wing'' costume designer Lyn Paolo. While several designers are featuring blouses, Paolo says ``West Wing'' women actors will be wearing blouses in dove gray or beige, sometimes unbuttoned far enough down to reveal a tank top, and teamed with a soft blue or lavender suit with a skirt at or below the knees.

This TV costume designer, like many ready-to-wear fashion designers, is also mad for plaid. According to Paolo, ``Plaid is so evocative of the preppy East Coast look, and I'm using a lot of Burberry plaid (a tan and black design) in trench coats with matching hats and umbrellas. Hopefully, it will be the next 'West Wing' trend that catches on with fans.''

Other names she drops for those shopping the ``West Wing'' career look, are MaxMara suits, Ralph Lauren shoes and St. John purses in the bowling bag and envelope silhouettes - and for the guys the trend-setting label is Hush Puppies. It's the preppy loafer that both Rob Lowe and Martin Sheen will wear to help run the country, along with their rep stripe ties.

With so many conservative styles available, ``Law & Order'' costume designer Jennifer von Mayrhauser says there won't be many changes, but shopping for the clothes will be much easier this year.

``For the men, the main change will be narrower ties,'' says von Mayrhauser, ``but viewers will note that Angie Harmon, who plays the assistant district attorney, will be wearing her skirts a little longer, past the knee.''

TV viewers looking for more flair in their work wardrobes will find it on ``Welcome to New York,'' about a TV producer, and ``Deadline,'' which focuses on the editorial staff of a New York newspaper.

Sarah Lemire, costume designer for ``Welcome to New York,'' describes the lead character (played by Christine Baranski) as looking like the two Hepburns - Audrey and Katharine - with a little Grace Kelly.

``You'll see her in a lot of tucked-in shirts with fitted skirts below the knee, slingback pumps and carrying a clutch purse,'' Lemire says, adding that the accessories she favors for her mostly beige-and-black (oh-so-Chanel) wardrobes are large pearl studs, long pearl necklaces, a gold chain belt and a Cartier-style watch with a square face and metal band. For a color accent, look for red, whether it's shoes or lips, she says.

After doing her costume research for ``Deadline'' at the New York Post, designer Ingrid Price observed, ``Newspaper staffs aren't known for dressing well, and their clothing is often related to their personality or beat, but we did notice that newshounds are starting to look a little sharper this year and we're showing that on the show.''

Calling it a character-driven wardrobe, Price turns to the investigative reporter/columnist played by Oliver Platt. ``He's different than everybody else, with a '40s newspaperman kind of style. He wears loose-fitting suits and sometimes a bow tie (and some artsy long red ties), but he wouldn't wear a hat,'' says Price.

The caustic editor played by Bebe Neuwirth is the ultimate fashion diva in skin-tight Italian ensembles while reporters and mid-level editors will suit up in tweed suits, she adds. Women reporters, however, will follow TV's legal eagle trend of baring their arms in the office, while the gossip columnist played by Lili Taylor will sport a few fun fads, including purple pony print slides.

Newshounds or not, Price promises the working class will have plenty of ideas for their career wardrobes in ``Deadline.'' And the show could get a few men to reconsider bow ties.

WORKING GIRL'S SHOPPING LIST

Not sure how to dress for success this fall?

Tune into the latest looks on the tube and tuck our cheat sheet into your handbag when you go to the mall:

Key clothes: A tweed suit, plaid skirt, silk blouse with a big collar, mid-knee (or longer) slim skirt, tapered trousers with a stove-pipe hemline and a long, fitted jacket. The sleeveless sheath with matching coat is still an office fave, updated with a chain belt (no dangling coins).

Color scheme: Black is still strong, but autumn shades of gold and green, camel, red and burgundy are newer and look very European. And navy blue is replacing gray at the corporate level.

Power purses: The handbag of the season is either a bowling bag style or a clutch (also called an envelope). Shoulder bags on TV's working girls are passe.

Key accessories: Oversize '80s-inspired earrings (drop pearls or hoops), triple strands of pearls, wide gold cuffs, gold chain belts and a big gold brooch to pin at throat or waist of a wrap-front blouse (yeah, they're trying for a comeback). The most timely wristwatch is Cartier-inspired with a big square or rectangular face and a leather or metal band. Rings and stretch crystal bead bracelets are fashion faux pas this season. Ditto with the anklets and nose rings and multiple piercings on ears.

Shoes: Pointed heels and toes are dainty choices for ladylike looks, but the square toe pump inspired by Prada is still strong. Boots are showing up at the office, worn tall with skirts or ankle-length with tailored pants. Chunky heels are out, stilettos (and the shorter pencil stub version) are in, even though they're hard to walk in and won't work in many real-life workplaces. And be careful when walking over grates on city streets.

Hosiery: Stockings are back, but not the suntan type. What's looking new again are dark opaque tights, textured hosiery and small-scale fishnets, even for the office.

Hair and makeup: Worn down in soft '40s waves or in a short-and-straight bob, with bright red or red/brown lips and longer nails painted to match. The French manicure has been retired at least until next spring, but you'll still see nude, well-buffed nails.

- Barbara De Witt

CAPTION(S):

11 photos, box

Photo:

(1 -- cover -- color) Turn on your TV and dress for success

Prime-time shows set the style for office attire

(2 -- 3 -- color) Alison Janney, below, of ``The West Wing'' reflects the new working-girl image in an open-collared blouse and traditional Cartier tank watch. ``Welcome to New York'' star Christine Baranski, right, adopts an edgier look in pricey designer ensembles.

(4 -- 5 -- color) On Fox's new drama ``The $treet,'' costume designers Rebecca and Patricia Field have dropped hemlines but also challenged traditional dress codes with plenty of bare arms, as shown on Bridgette Wilson, left, and Jennifer Connelly, below.

(6 -- color) Wall Street traders in ``The $treet'' reflect the bullish trend to dark suits and conservative ties. Stay tuned. Red could be the next power tie.

(7 -- color) no caption (Hoop Earrings)

(8 -- color) no caption (gold necklace)

(9 -- color) no caption (purse)

(10 -- color) no caption (Square-toe pump)

David Sprague/Staff Photographer

(11) ``The Practice'' provides plenty of fashion strategy, including pin- striped suits with crisp shirts, dark opaque pantyhose and lots of hoop earrings.

Box: Working girl's shopping list (see text)