PRELUDE TO A KISS IT'S NOT YOUR GRANDMOTHER'S PROM, BUT MAYBE SHE'LL LOAN YOU HER PEARLS.

Byline: Barbara De Witt Fashion Editor

LOCAL HIGH-SCHOOL GIRLS are eyeing classic ballgowns and accessories for prom, but they say that's where they'll draw the line.

``I'm patriotic, but I don't think the prom is the place for flag fashions,'' said Maria Castaneda of Pasadena. ``I'd rather wear a solid red gown.''

Stores such as Jessica McClintock and Windsor Fashions, which cater to prom-goers, are displaying red-white-and-blue gowns in windows and at a recent Seventeen magazine-sponsored fashion show at the Glendale Galleria. But it might be too much, too late.

``Americana? It's too far past 9/11 and would seem cliche by prom time,'' commented Sabrina Verano of Agoura Hills, who plans on wearing an understated two-piece dark blue gown.

Instead of buying into the new Americana-print evening gowns that look too much like costumes for a USO tour, local teens are waxing nostalgic over classic styles to wear with their pearl necklaces and long white gloves. They're even considering orchid corsages pinned to their dresses, much as their grandmothers wore them in the '50s.

An array of pink and lilac ball gowns and the knee-length dresses with bouffant skirts, like those Audrey Hepburn wore in ``Roman Holiday'' and ``Sabrina,'' turned out to be the crowd-pleasers at the fashion show.

Clearly, the diva is dead. And so is her turkey-feather boa, according to an informal survey of local prom-goers who talked about everything from their dresses to their nail polish.

``On prom night, I want to look glamorous,'' said Nadia Ranuschio of Valencia, who was shopping at the Glendale Galleria. ``Like a princess in a classic strapless ballgown in red or green with a rhinestone necklace ... a choker like the one Gwyneth Paltrow wore to the Oscars and have my hair up ... but I haven't found the perfect dress yet,'' said Nadia Ranuschio of Valencia.

Tiffany Morita of Canoga Park said she wants a long sheath - but not too tight - in the season's hottest shades of pink or purple, as she looked at dresses at the Charlotte Russe store at Westfield Shoppingtown Topanga Plaza.

Kari Hodge of Thousand Oaks has already decided on a strapless short dress with a bouffant skirt in nude embroidered tulle over satin with black ribbon trim. ``I'm going to wear nude fishnet stockings, black shoes and carry a black purse, and probably wear a pearl necklace with it,'' Hodge commented as she pulled her dress out of a bag for inspection.

Her friend Erica Wienzveg of Northridge said she hadn't bought her ensemble yet, but she's thinking about going western - accessorizing her dress with cowboy boots and a hat.

Ah, the power of accessories.

There's the hair, the makeup, the shoes and jewels, and of course, the corsage. Although cowboy boots are politically correct these days, most local teens are opting for stiletto-heeled sandals. Also hot on the local scene:

NO BIG HAIR: Most girls are wearing their hair up in a French twist or knot, but a few are having their hair straightened and worn down. Big hair is definitely passe. Ditto with artificial colors such as pink or orange.

JUST A PRINCESS: Tiaras that look like the prom queen's are out, but more subtle (think headband) styles with pearls or rhinestones are still strong. So are jeweled hair pins and clips.

SHIMMER AND SHINE: Remember that diamond choker that Paltrow wore to the Oscars with her pink Ralph Lauren gown? Variations on that style are must-haves, as are delicate lariat styles and necklaces with a single diamond drop. Dangle-style earrings are in but big chandeliers are out. Short strands of pearls are making a comeback, according to both teens and salespeople at Claire's Accessories, and they're worn with a matching bracelet and simple stud earrings.

HOLD THE MAKEUP, PLEASE: Ruby red lips might be fine for Oscar's red carpet but not the prom. Most girls prefer a natural look with lots of sheer gloss on their lips and sparkles on their skin and hair. And maybe body jewels.

PIN IT ON: Big, fluffy white orchids are predicted to make a comeback, and some girls are even wanting the old-fashioned kind of corsage that gets pinned at the bodice or waist (part of that '50s thing). Most girls, however, are going to wear wrist corsages with a single large rose bud. The profusion of tiny rose buds is over. Carnations? Not a chance, even in this retro-inspired year.

WHAT PURSE?: Tiny evening bags with fringe, beads or sequins - and a handle. Available in pastels, brights and basic black.

SHOW YOUR TOES: Open-toed stiletto pumps. Maybe dyed to match or in silver or black.

COVER THOSE HANDS: Gloves are definitely back and most popular in the over-the-elbow length in either black or white with floor-length gowns. The shorter dresses call for gloves that hit just before the elbow.

CAPTION(S):

4 photos

Photo:

(1 -- color) Nina Brunner, 17, of Burbank in vintage gown with sparkly tulle overdress, blows a few kisses from the runway.

(2 -- color) It's not too old-fashioned to wear a fabric flower as corsage. We found lots of flowers like this at David's Bridal.

(3 -- color) Patriotic fever hits with this rhinestone flag belt by Jessica McClintock.

Keith Birmingham/Staff Photographer

(4 -- color) Newest looks for the prom include classics like this tulle- trimmed gown paired with matching gloves, purse and stole from David's Bridal. $229.