PORTER GETS STAR TREATMENT.

Byline: Rob Lowman Entertainment Editor

AS ONE CRITIC has dubbed her, Andrea Marcovicci is the gold standard of cabaret singers, and given her stylish performance at Feinstein's at the Cinegrill on Tuesday night, there is no reason to switch criteria.

Marcovicci's current show is dedicated to the love songs of Cole Porter, the sophisticated composer of such classics as ``Anything Goes,'' who could rhyme ``high colonic'' with ``philharmonic'' and ``nymphomania'' with ``Pennsylvania.'' But while most cite Porter's wit, many of his songs reflect complicated romantic situations, which Marcovicci brings to the fore with her informed dramatic readings.

A star of stage and screen, Marcovicci does not possess a voice that will knock you out, but neither did Fred Astaire, who did many of Porter's songs first. Instead, she acts out songs in ways that make it seem like you're hearing lyrics for the first time - even on such familiar numbers as ``Let's Misbehave'' and ``You Do Something to Me.''

Her interpretations can be so effective that when Marcovicci - elegantly dressed in a long black gown - gazes into the audience and asks, ``How's Your Romance?''- you're likely to find yourself scrambling for an answer in your head. (Hopefully, the reply is, ``Going Well.'') Astaire, as Marcovicci informed us, originally did that tune for the Broadway show ``The Gay Divorce,'' changed to ``The Gay Divorcee'' for film. Throughout the nearly two-hour show, Marcovicci helped shed light upon Porter's life with many amusing anecdotes about the composer's fascinating life.

She mentioned, for instance, a photograph of Porter laughing that was taken on the set of ``Night and Day,'' the big-screen biography of his life starring Cary Grant. Porter was laughing, noted the singer, because not one bit of the notoriously trashy film was true. By the way, you'll be hearing more about Porter this year. A new big-screen version of his life, ``De-Lovely,'' is set for release in July, starring Kevin Kline and Ashley Judd. It no doubt will adhere closer to the truth - that, while Porter was married, he was also gay.

While the stories were fun and entertaining, it was Marcovicci's performance - especially on some of his lesser-known songs like ``Weren't We Fools,'' written for Fanny Brice - that stylishly carried the torch for Porter's music. The composer couldn't have found a better advocate.

Rob Lowman, [phone]

robert.lowman(at)dailynews.com

ANDREA MARCOVICCI - Three and one half stars

Where: Feinstein's at the Cinegrill in the Roosevelt Hotel, 7000 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood.

When: 8 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday, 8 and 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday; through March 13.

Tickets: Tuesday through Thursday and 10 p.m. Friday: $65, which includes three-course dinner and show. 8 p.m. Friday, 8 and 10 p.m. Saturday: $75. A limited number of seats are available for a $20 cover plus a two-drink minimum (except 8 p.m. Friday and 8 p.m. Saturday). Reservations and information: [phone]. Online at www.hollywoodroosevelt.com.

In a nutshell: Cole Porter's witty, sophisticated songs are given proper due by Marcovicci's elegant stylings.

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Andrea Marcovicci performs at Feinstein's at the Cinegrill through March 13.