POINT LOMA OFFERS MUCH FOR HIKERS CABRILLO MONUMENT BEST-KEPT SECRET.

Byline: William Toren Staff Writer

Sometimes a hike can be more of an extremely pleasant surprise than a carefully planned expedition. Such was the case when my friend Karen decided to treat me to one of the more spectacular, and moving, treks I've been on in some time when I went to visit her in San Diego.

Now, San Diego might be a bit far afield for a day trip, but if you're an avid hiker who also enjoys parrots, pandas and performing pinnipeds, there's a spot down there worth squeezing in between trips to the city's world-renowned animal exhibits. It's called Cabrillo National Monument and it's one of the city's best-kept secrets (well, maybe not for Karen, but none of my other friends living there ever mentioned it).

Located at the tip of Point Loma, the park has commanding views of both the city skyline and the wide-open Pacific. It's entirely surrounded by military installations, and the drive in takes you past a stately cemetery overlooking the waters. With Veterans Day fresh in my mind, I found this especially poignant.

The park itself began as a monument of a different sort, commemorating the landing of Juan Cabrillo in 1542, marking the first visit by Europeans to the West Coast of the United States. But recent efforts to restore the natural landscape with native plants made increasingly rare by coastal development has made the site a boon to hikers as well as historians.

This is not to say that the historical sights are to be overlooked. At the peak of the point sits the Old Point Loma Lighthouse, built in 1854. On some days, guides in 1800s clothes offer insights into what life was like 100 years ago, when hikes were less recreational, as the nearest trading post was five hours away by horse. Inside, the lighthouse is presented as it was at the turn of the century, complete with period furniture and tools.

Trails wind around the hilltop, past pieces of somewhat more recent history: gun batteries and bunkers from World War II, when the point's strategic location became paramount. You can't go inside them, but you get a chilling enough idea of the all-too-familiar tensions of the time in which they were built.

Such attractions make the trip to point worthwhile on their own, but the real treat of the park is leaving the recent past behind for the distant prehistory it preserves. Just past the lighthouse is the beginning of the Bayside Trail, which winds down the hill to San Diego Bay. The trail is a mile each way, and although the return trip is all uphill, the slope is gentle enough as to not pose a challenge for moderately conditioned hikers.

Keeping my eyes level, I was treated to a serene glimpse of Southern California's natural beauty without a hint of civilization other than the well-maintained path through the coastal scrub shared by lizards and songbirds alike. Looking up, I took in the expansive skyline of a 21st century metropolis, showing in most dramatic effect the contrasts of hiking in this part of the country.

An even bigger contrast can be enjoyed back at the top of the hill, however. While the view of the bay delivers a look at a host of man-made behemoths - battleships, cruisers and jumbo jets landing at the nearby international airport - the view of the ocean offers a chance to see natural wonders just as impressive. On a clear winter's day, of which there are many in San Diego, it is possible to see the mighty California gray whales on their 12,000-mile migrations down to their breeding lagoons in Baja. We didn't see any on this last trip, but it's a little early in their season; late December through mid-February is the recommended time.

For a closer look at nature, it's worth a trip to the tide pools on the west side of the point. With the ocean in retreat, it's possible to leap from rock to rock, stopping to gaze down at sea anemones, starfish and other shore life in their natural element.

The national monument has such modern amenities as a visitor's center and restrooms, though these can easily be forgotten about 100 yards into the Bayside Trail. There's also a $5 entrance fee per vehicle, but compared to what it costs to get into Sea World or the San Diego Zoo, it doesn't seem like real money compared to what you get. Information: [phone].