PASSOVER POTLUCK STYLE CELEBRATE FREEDOM FROM SLAVERY BY SHARING THE COOKING.

Byline: Natalie Haughton Food Editor

If you plan to host a Passover Seder on March 27, invite family and friends to share in the food festivities.

That's what Dianne Gorsey of Sherman Oaks plans to do. She takes care of the main dishes - Chicken Marbella and brisket - and some other must-have family favorites (like Passover Puff Muffins, Cake Au Chocolat and Coconut Macaroons), but fills out the buffet table with potluck contributions.

Although her mother rarely cooked, and Passover was not a big deal during her growing-up years, Gorsey has become the quintessential Passover hostess. She's been hosting Seders at her home yearly for almost three decades. This year she anticipates 30 people at the celebration.

``Passover is my favorite holiday,'' says Gorsey, ``because it is a challenge. You have to be creative to make it good.''

Flours, grains, bread products and leavening of any kind are forbidden. Contrary to popular opinion, food at the Passover table can be sensational and delicious, she adds. The trick is to select wonderful-tasting desserts and other dishes that can be adapted to the holiday.

Although her potluck Passovers are loosely structured, Gorsey keeps track of items guests will be bringing to avoid duplication and steer the buffet in the right direction. If someone is already bringing a kugel, she'll suggest something else, like a vegetable or dessert or whatever else is specifically needed. But it needs to be an item that the guest feels comfortable preparing.

Gorsey leaves nothing to chance. Usually one friend brings a fruit platter, another asparagus and someone else a green salad. Another person is assigned to bring the Passover wine. The matzo kugel honors go to a close friend, while a cousin provides the chicken soup with matzo balls for the crowd. Her sister-in-law, Candi Stern, usually prepares a Carrot Souffle. Sometimes she also contributes chocolate-covered matzo, always a big hit.

For convenience and ease, Gorsey asks guests to bring items attractively garnished on a beautiful dish, ready to present on the buffet table (or keep warm in the oven, if necessary).

Looks do count. But Gorsey ultimately controls the presentation with the appearance of a festive and fabulous buffet table. She decorates the table with flowers, leaves and greenery down the center. She presents various dishes on different levels, at varying heights using a variety of table linens to accomplish the task and surrounding with more foliage. She also uses her best china for dinner service.

Gorsey starts her Passover cooking and baking in advance and freezes as much as possible - including the entree, muffins and a few desserts.

The following are some of the favorite dishes you'll find on Gorsey's Passover buffet. Be aware that in many instances kosher for Passover.

FABULOUS CAKE AU CHOCOLAT

1 1/2 cups granulated sugar 

1/2 cup water

2 tablespoons vanilla

8 ounces unsweetened chocolate, finely chopped

4 ounces bittersweet (not unsweetened) OR semisweet chocolate, finely chopped

1 cup (2 sticks) margarine, cut into pieces, at room temperature

5 large eggs, room temperature

Grease a 9-inch diameter cake pan with 1 1/2-inch high sides. Line bottom with waxed paper. Bring 1 cup granulated sugar, water and vanilla to a boil in heavy medium saucepan. Remove from heat. Add 1/2 of unsweetened chocolate and 1/2 of bittersweet chocolate and stir until smooth. Whisk in 1/2 of margarine. Add remaining chocolates and margarine; whisk until smooth.

Using an electric mixer, beat eggs with remaining 1/2 cup granulated sugar in a large bowl until pale yellow and slowly dissolving ribbon forms when beaters are lifted. Beat in melted chocolate mixture.

Pour batter into prepared pan. Place cake pan in a large baking pan. Add enough boiling water to baking pan to come halfway up sides of cake pan. Bake in preheated 350-degree oven until cake remains firm in center when shaken, about 30 minutes. Remove cake from water and cool 10 minutes. Unmold onto plate. Cool completely (Can be prepared 1 day ahead. Cover cake loosely with plastic wrap and store at room temperature.)

Sift powdered sugar over cake. Cut into wedges (cake will be very soft). Serve with fresh berries. Makes 16 servings.

CHICKEN MARBELLA

This dish is good hot or at room temperature. The overnight marination is essential to the moistness of the finished product.

4 chickens, 2 1/2 pounds EACH, quartered OR cut into pieces

1 head garlic, peeled and finely pureed

1/4 cup dried oregano 

Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

1/2 cup red wine vinegar 

1/2 cup olive oil 

1 cup pitted prunes

1/2 cup pitted Spanish green olives

1/2 cup capers with a bit of juice

6 bay leaves

1 cup brown sugar

1 cup white wine

1/4 cup finely chopped Italian parsley OR fresh cilantro

In a large bowl, combine chicken quarters, garlic, oregano, coarse salt and pepper to taste, vinegar, olive oil, prunes, olives, capers and juice and bay leaves. Cover and let marinate, refrigerated, overnight.

Arrange chicken in a single layer in one or two large, shallow baking pans and spoon marinade evenly over. Sprinkle chicken pieces with brown sugar and pour white wine around them.

Bake in preheated 350-degree oven 50 to 60 minutes, basting frequently with pan juices. Chicken is done when thigh pieces, pricked with a fork at their thickest part, yield clear yellow (rather than pink) juice.

Remove bay leaves. With a slotted spoon, transfer chicken, prunes, olives and capers to a serving platter. Moisten with a few spoonfuls of pan juices and sprinkle generously with parsley or cilantro. Pass remaining pan juices in a sauceboat.

To serve cold, cool to room temperature in cooking juices before transferring to a serving platter. If chicken has been covered and refrigerated, allow to return to room temperature before serving. Spoon some of reserved juice over chicken. Makes 10 or more servings.

From ``The Silver Palate Cookbook,'' by Julee Rosso and Sheila Lukins.

CARROT SOUFFLE

(Shared by Candi Stern)

1 pound cooked (until soft) carrots (frozen can be used)

3 eggs

1/3 cup granulated sugar

3 tablespoons matzo cake meal

1 teaspoon vanilla

1 stick plus 1 tablespoon margarine, melted

Dash nutmeg

1/4 to 1/2 cup finely chopped pecans

3 tablespoons packed brown sugar Combine carrots and eggs in blender (not food processor); blend smooth. Add granulated sugar, matzo meal, vanilla, 1 stick melted margarine and nutmeg; blend well. Turn into a greased 1-quart souffle dish. Combine remaining 1 tablespoon melted margarine, pecans and brown sugar. Mix together and sprinkle on top of carrot mixture. Bake in preheated 350-degree oven 40 minutes or until puffed. Makes 6 servings.

MOM'S FRUIT KUGEL

(Shared by Bernice Fishman)

2 eggs

5 tablespoons cooking oil

1 1/4 cups granulated sugar

3 matzos, soaked in boiling water briefly and liquid squeezed out

Juice and grated peel of 3 lemons

7 Pippin apples, peeled and grated

1 (12-ounce) package cubed dried fruit

1 (8-ounce) package dried apricots

2 heaping tablespoons plum jam

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/4 cup packed brown sugar

1 cup water

Mix together eggs, 2 tablespoons oil, granulated sugar, matzos, lemon juice and peel, apples, dried fruits, jam and cinnamon. Turn into a greased 9x13-inch baking pan.

In a small saucepan, combine remaining 3 tablespoons oil, brown sugar and water. Heat to boiling, reduce heat and simmer 15 minutes. Pour over mixture in pan. Bake, covered, in preheated 350-degree oven 30 minutes. Uncover and continue baking at 325 degrees 30 minutes or longer, until set. Makes 10 servings.

PASSOVER PUFF MUFFINS

2 cups water

3/4 cup solid vegetable shortening (Crisco)

1 tablespoon sugar

1 teaspoon salt

2 cups matzo meal

6 eggs

Boil water and shortening together. Add sugar and salt. Remove from heat. Add matzo meal and mix well. Cool. With a fork, add beaten eggs, a little at a time, until all are incorporated. Grease muffin tins. Fill 7/8 full with batter. Bake in preheated 400-degree oven 50 to 60 minutes or until golden and cooked through. Makes about 12 muffins.

NOTE: Do not double recipe. Make each batch separately. These freeze well. To reheat, thaw and place on a baking sheet. Place in a preheated 400-degree oven 5 minutes. Use Baker's Secret muffin pans for best results.

COCONUT MACAROONS

2 2/3 cups flaked coconut

2/3 cup sugar

1/4 cup matzo cake meal

1/4 teaspoon salt

4 egg whites

1 teaspoon almond extract

1 cup chopped almonds

Semisweet chocolate, melted (optional)

Combine coconut, sugar, matzo cake meal and salt in a mixing bowl. Stir in egg whites and almond extract. Stir in almonds; mix well. Drop from a teaspoon onto lightly greased baking sheets. Bake in preheated 325-degree oven 20 to 25 minutes or until edges of cookies are golden brown. Remove from baking sheets immediately. Cool. Dip half of each cookie in melted semisweet chocolate, if desired, and let stand until set. Makes about 2 1/2 dozen.

NOTE: These freeze well.

MERINGUE COOKIES

4 egg whites

1 1/4 cups sugar

1/8 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon vanilla

1 (12-ounce) package semisweet chocolate chips

Let egg whites stand at room temperature 1 hour. Beat until soft peaks form. Add sugar, 2 tablespoons at a time, and salt and beat until stiff. Fold in vanilla and chocolate chips. Drop by teaspoonfuls 1-inch apart on parchment-lined cookie sheets. Bake in preheated 300-degree oven 25 to 30 minutes or until faintly colored. Cool on wire racks. Makes 5 to 6 dozen.

NOTE: These freeze well.

HAROSET

(on the cover)

1/2 cup chopped almonds

1/4 cup chopped walnuts

1 tablespoon sugar

1 cup grated apples

1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon

Concord grape wine

Combine nuts, sugar, apples and cinnamon, mixing well. Moisten with wine as desired. Makes about 1 3/4 cups.

CAPTION(S):

4 photos

Photo:

(1 -- cover -- color) Seder simplified

Invite your guests to contribute to the buffet table

David Sprague/Staff Photographer

(2 -- 3 -- color) Chicken Marbella, above, is a great Passover entree choice. Meringue Cookies and chocolate-dipped Coconut Macaroons, left, are favorite Seder dessert selections.

(4 -- color) Candi Stern, left, and Dianne Gorsey.