PANTRY TURNS 75; CHEFS TAKE STAB AT GRIDDLECAKES.

Byline: Rick Orlov Daily News Staff Writer

The oldest hash house in Los Angeles, a landmark for late-night revelers and early birds working downtown, celebrated its 75th anniversary Friday with famous chefs trying to improve on The Original Pantry's pancakes.

The pancakes won.

The kickoff for a weeklong party at the restaurant owned by Mayor Richard Riordan featured chefs Wolfgang Puck of Spago, Susan Feniger of the Border Grill, Jean Francois Meteigner of La Cachette, Joachim Splichal of Patina and Giorgio Baldi of Giorgio's trying to come up with their own combinations making use of the buttermilk pancake mix for which the Pantry is known.

Riordan, wearing a white chef's jacket, served coffee behind the counter, while Councilman Richard Alatorre told him he was flatly rejecting any of the gourmet offerings.

``I took a taste,'' he admitted. ``I'm sticking with the pancakes.''

So did Police Chief Bernard C. Parks and City Council candidate Nick Pacheco, as well as the throng of regular patrons who were surprised by the event that featured performances by the Deacon Jones Blues Band.

Instead of the fancy versions served up by the chefs, the Pantry's usual menu eggs - with bacon, sausage or steak - along with the pancakes appeared to be winning the favor of diners.

Feniger, who also appears on the cooking show ``Two Hot Tamales,'' said she understood.

``This is a great hash house,'' she said. ``It's like home. You see restaurants like this in Topeka or Des Moines or any city in the country. It's good solid food. And it's a comfort.''

Riordan purchased the restaurant in 1980.

``I had been coming in here for breakfast for a long time and one of the waiters told me to read the article about it going to close,'' Riordan said. ``I couldn't let that happen, so I bought it.''

And, it has been profitable ever since - although not without its recent controversies when the county Health Department shut it down for eight hours for health violations.

``Everyone pitched in, even the customers, and we were able to get it cleaned up overnight,'' Riordan said.

The restaurant now has a ``B'' grade from the county, and workers said they were just a point shy of receiving an ``A.''

The Original Pantry opened in 1924 at the corner of 9th Street and Francisco Avenue, one block from its present location at 9th and Figueroa streets.

To keep true to its slogan of ``We never close,'' when the restaurant moved in 1951, the owners and customers walked from the original location carrying their coffee mugs and plates of foods to the new spot.

As part of the celebration, Riordan saluted one of the restaurant's oldest regulars, Robbie Eisenberg, who was celebrating his 101st birthday. As a gift, Riordan said Eisenberg would be getting free meals as long as he lives.

Also, from now through Friday, a free meal will be given to anyone over the age of 75 and events will be held throughout this weekend.

The restaurant serves up to 3,000 meals a day and in a typical week serves up more than a ton of sourdough bread and goes through 17,000 eggs, a ton of fresh vegetables, 40 gallons of maple syrup and 2-1/2 tons of cole slaw.

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2 Photos

PHOTO (1) From left, Joachim Splichal, Wolfgang Puck, Mayor Richard Riordan and Susan Feniger sit and chat at The Original Pantry.

(2) The Deacon Jones Blues Band plays at the mayor's eatery.

John McCoy/Daily News