PANCHO'S ON MONEY WITH SOME DISHES.Byline: Larry Lipson Restaurant Critic With a couple of established (since 1975) successful Mexican restaurants to the north in Camarillo and Oxnard, Money Pancho decided to brave the tougher competition of the Los Angeles Los Angeles (lôs ăn`jələs, lŏs, ăn`jəlēz'), city (1990 pop. 3,485,398), seat of Los Angeles co., S Calif.; inc. 1850. area's San Fernando Valley San Fernando Valley Valley, southern California, U.S. Northwest of central Los Angeles, the valley is bounded by the San Gabriel, Santa Susana, and Santa Monica mountains and the Simi Hills. in Calabasas. This puts them very close to the well-run, creatively conceived La Paz La Paz, city, Bolivia La Paz (lä päs), city (1992 pop. 713,378), W Bolivia, administrative capital (since 1898) and largest city of Bolivia. The legal capital is Sucre. . Consequently, the comparison can't be avoided. Where La Paz serves numerous whole fish, goat and Southern Mexican specialties in addition to more familiar Mexican fare, Money Pancho sticks mainly to the expected dishes and delivers them in the historic local manner with generous portions of rice and refried beans re·fried beans pl.n. Beans that have been cooked and then mashed and fried with seasonings. [Translation of Spanish frijoles refritos : frijoles, pl. , often with that homey coating of melted cheese. Not a whole lot to get excited about. However, I really like the new restaurant's chunky-ish guacamole ($6 or $7), much better than the smooth, diluted, liquefied, blender-version found often today. Money Pancho's kitchen also puts out tasty, savory savory, name for any plant of the genus Satureja, aromatic herbs and subshrubs of the family Labiatae (mint family). Commonly cultivated as border ornamentals or potherbs are two species of the Mediterranean region and surrounding areas: summer savory (S. tortilla and albondigas soups ($3 and $5 each), available with entree orders for $2 extra. But main plates are somewhat inconsistent. While filete de pescado Veracruzano ($13.95) made with Alaskan cod fillets is nicely cooked with white wine, onions, green peppers and garlic, a plate of tri-tip in chipotle chi·pot·le n. A ripe jalapeño pepper that has been dried and smoked for use in cooking. [American Spanish, from Nahuatl xipotli.] Noun 1. sauce ($12.95) came up with meat that was somewhat overcooked and dryish one evening. Another night carne adobada ($12.95) with marinated pork arrived with several gristly gris·tly adj. gris·tli·er, gris·tli·est 1. Composed of or containing gristle. 2. Resembling gristle. gris pieces that should have been discarded before serving. And a ranchera The ranchera is a genre of the traditional music of Mexico. Although closely associated with the mariachi groups which evolved in Jalisco in the post-revolutionary period, rancheras are also played today by norteño (or Conjunto) or banda (or Duranguense) groups. steak plate supposedly garnished with hot tomatillo sauce ($12.95) didn't possess either the piquancy or color (vivid green) usually associated with the tomatillo. On the plus side, Money Pancho's tostadas, tamales, enchiladas and the like are respectable renditions, making the number 12 combination entree option ($9.95) of any two of six possibilities with rice, beans and cheese a relatively satisfying $10 main course. Also, there's a deep-fried ice cream concoction ($5) that provides a worthy, palate-refreshing ending. And one must consider Money Pancho's comfortable booths, pleasant green and red-toned surroundings, obvious desire by the management - evidently part of a large family - to please, that could eventually make this a neighborhood favorite. Meanwhile, to improve its chances the new Money Pancho just needs a little sharpening up in the kitchen. MONEY PANCHO Where: 26500 W. Agoura Road, Calabasas. When: Open for lunch from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. weekdays, for dinner from 4 to 10 p.m. nightly. Recommended items: Guacamole, albondigas or tortilla soup, pescado Veracruzano, optional combination plate, deep-fried ice cream. Children's menu: Hamburger, cheeseburger, quesadilla que·sa·dil·la n. A flour tortilla folded in half around a savory filling, as of cheese or beans, then fried or toasted. [American Spanish, from Spanish, diminutive of quesada, , taco or cheese enchilada with rice, beans and a soft drink costs $5.95 for children under 12. How much: Starters from $2 to $11, entrees from $10 to $19, desserts $5. Alcohol license pending. Major credit cards accepted. Reservations: Helpful. Call (818) 871-9848. Our rating: Two stars for food; three stars for service. |
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