PALOMINO PLEASES AT FULL GALLOP.Byline: Larry Lipson Restaurant Critic What is this Euro affectation af·fec·ta·tion n. 1. A show, pretense, or display. 2. a. Behavior that is assumed rather than natural; artificiality. b. A particular habit, as of speech or dress, adopted to give a false impression. going on in Westwood Village? Michael Chow calls his new, spectacular, domed dining emporium Eurochow (reviewed on these pages Aug. 6). And down the street in the imposing Center West building on the corner of Glendon and Wilshire, Seattle-based Restaurants Unlimited Inc. (RUI) has opened its 12th Palomino Palomino Colour type of horse distinguished by its cream, yellow, or gold coat and a white or silver mane. It is popular in pleasure and parade classes. Palominos may conform to the breed types of several light breeds, including the Arabian horse and the American Quarter Horse. Euro Bistro. You may remember RUI's Cutters and Stepps locally (both closed). Now the restaurant company emphasizes its Palominos, described as ``sleek,'' ``modern'' and with ``an eclectic look and urbane feel,'' as well as its Kinkaid restaurants, ``today's interpretations of a traditional fish, chop and steak house.'' Palomino's charge into Westwood substantiates its remarkable drawing power. Even on a traditionally slow Monday night recently, the place was packed during the majority of the dinnertime period. Thankfully, they still allowed drop-ins like us full dinner service in the restaurant's expansive, comfortable bar area. No expense has been spared to make this a colorful and engaging environment for a mixed clientele. You'll see all types here, from neighborhood residents and local business people to retirees and college students. Massive ebony and red columns soar toward high ceilings, and impressive interior textures are displayed in the highly polished rich woods and expensive varieties of marble on floors, table and counter tops. As for the food, it's certainly not lacking in imagination, yet some dishes work a lot better than others. You'll discover that the chef, David Shaw, a talented 31-year-old Chicago native who already has 13 years' experience under his spatula spatula /spat·u·la/ (spach´u-lah) [L.] 1. a wide, flat, blunt, usually flexible instrument of little thickness, used for spreading material on a smooth surface. 2. a spatulate structure. , likes exotic and assertive seasonings. He calls his food ``passionate and sexy.'' For example, cinnamon turned up in a hot, spicy chicken soup chicken soup Chicken broth Folk medicine Jewish penicillin A fowl broth with a long tradition as a home remedy for URIs, which may be a nasal decongestant, inhibit growth of pneumococci in vitro, and stimulate immune responsiveness in WBCs Mainstream medicine A ($4.95) with couscous cous·cous n. 1. A pasta of North African origin made of crushed and steamed semolina. 2. A North African dish consisting of pasta steamed with a meat and vegetable stew. one day. And the same cinnamon-flavored couscous materializes both in a grilled chicken plate ($13.50) that possesses an imposing array of flavors - apricot, ginger, cilantro, onion and tomato - and a swordfish and red pepper-sauced entree ($17.95). The house spit-roasted garlic chicken ($13.95) manifests the taste satisfactions of pancetta pan·cet·ta n. Italian bacon that has been cured in salt and spices and then air-dried. [Italian, diminutive of pancia, belly, from Latin pantex, pantic-.] (Italian bacon), a restrained amount of rosemary, fresh lemon, garlic and olive oil. But like so many rotisseried items in restaurants today, it loses a bit too much moisture by the time it gets to the diner. Consequently, the chicken becomes dryish. On the other hand, the New York New York, state, United States New York, Middle Atlantic state of the United States. It is bordered by Vermont, Massachusetts, Connecticut, and the Atlantic Ocean (E), New Jersey and Pennsylvania (S), Lakes Erie and Ontario and the Canadian province of stripper Stripper Slang for an individual homeowner who strips the equity out of his or her home through mortgage refinancing. Proceeds are generally not re-invested, but spent on consumer goods. Notes: Most people get rich by saving and investing wisely. steak with crispy sweet, fried onions ($23.95) is a lovely, juicy slab of tender beef joy. But why hamper this plate by accompanying this fine steak with mashed potatoes with skins left in. (Some people, I understand, prefer them this way.) But Palomino's kitchen can rise to unsurpassable heights with such featured entrees as escolar ($14.95), the freshest, flakiest, tenderest fish imaginable, served up with a delightful salsa creation of such unusual companions as strawberries, cilantro, blueberries and sweet peppers. It does well with very thin-crusted pizzas, particularly the sausage and mushroom rendition ($10.95) and produces passable pass·a·ble adj. 1. That can be passed, traversed, or crossed; navigable: a passable road. 2. Acceptable for general circulation: passable currency. 3. crispy calamari with a curry-flavored coating and an above-average artichoke artichoke, name for two different plants of the family Asteraceae (aster family), both having edible parts. The French, or globe, artichoke (Cynara scolymus and garlic mayonnaise dipping sauce. With portions relatively generous, so many menu possibilities, enthusiastic service, and a worthy range of beverages, including 12 draft brews ($3.95 each), Palomino looks like another Westwood winner - with or without its Euro affectation. The Facts The restaurant: Palomino Euro Bistro. Where: 10877 Wilshire Blvd., Westwood Village. When: Open for lunch from 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. weekdays, from noon to 2:30 p.m. Saturdays and Sundays, for snacks and limited dishes from 2:30 to 5 p.m. daily, and for dinner from 5 to 11 p.m. nightly, to midnight Friday and Saturday. Recommended items: Soups, grilled wild mushroom salad, Italian sausage and wild mushroom pizza, char-crusted New York strip Noun 1. New York strip - steak from upper part of the short loin strip steak beefsteak - a beef steak usually cooked by broiling steak, escolar with berry salsa. How much: Starters and salads from $5.50 to $11, pastas and entrees from $11 to $27, desserts from $4 to $7. Full bar. Major credit cards. Wine list: Short but workable, with 14 pleasant choices by the glass ($4.75 to $8.50) or bottle ($17 to $37). No great bargains, though. Corkage cork·age n. A charge exacted at a restaurant for every bottle of liquor served that was not bought on the premises. corkage Noun a charge made at a restaurant for serving wine bought elsewhere : $10. Reservations: Helpful. Call (310) 208-1960. Our rating: Three stars for food; three stars for service; two stars for wine. CAPTION(S): Photo PHOTO Palomino Euro Bistro chef David Shaw, 31, with 13 years' experience under his spatula, calls his food ``passionate and sexy.'' John McCoy/Staff Photographer |
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