ON THE WATERFRONT A WEALTH OF DIVERSIONS AWAITS VISITORS TO SAN DIEGO'S HARBOR AREA.

Byline: Story by Eric Noland Travel Editor

SAN DIEGO - On the edge of this city's downtown district, you're likely to hear all the requisite sounds of urban bustle: a bus engine groaning as it pulls away from the curb, a jumbo jet on approach to Lindbergh Field, heavy construction equipment at work overhead on a new high-rise, a siren.

But mixed in with these will be sounds not normally associated with a major city: the shriek of a seagull, a boat whistle, the deep-basso warning of a foghorn.

San Diego is distinctive in that its downtown region spills right down to the edge of its superb natural harbor - which, after explorer Juan Cabrillo spied it 460 years ago, served as the impetus for the founding of the settlement.

Although many cities (notably Los Angeles) confine their waterfronts to the gritty commerce that requires an outlet to the sea, San Diego has enthusiastically embraced its embarcadero, ensuring that it is a profoundly visitor-friendly area.

People stopping by the city for rest and recreation find harbor tour boats, verdant parks, a shopping village, an impressive museum complex - that floats - and a seemingly infinite number of establishments at which diners may sit at the water's edge and fork down succulent chunks of mesquite-broiled halibut, sea bass or red snapper.

It's all accessible, too. From the convention center on the south to the entrance to Point Loma on the north, a pedestrian walkway winds a full five miles along the edge of San Diego Bay. (Along many stretches, there is a separate, dedicated bike path, so you don't have to lurch out of the way of the spokes crowd.) The heart of the embarcadero - where the boat tours, the museum, a cruise-ship terminal and one of those fish restaurants cluster together - is also convenient to the Amtrak train station, which is two blocks away.

At any point along this pedestrian route, if you lean on a railing and gaze out over the bay, you'll likely survey a flotilla of astounding diversity: recreational sailboats bent against the wind, Navy warships in a no-nonsense shade of gray, cabin cruisers, commercial fishing boats, kayaks, water taxis, tour boats, ferries.

If you want to get out on that water, there are a number of opportunities. The tour boats, which embark on one- and two-hour excursions to both ends of the bay, are a popular option. Conducted by two different companies at the B Street Pier, they leave at regular intervals throughout the day, and guides provide information on just about everything afloat. The ride also affords an unmatched view of the downtown skyline.

The San Diego Maritime Museum is just a short walk to the north of the tour-boat dock, and many visitors check their watches, realize they have 30 or so minutes before having to board for their boat tour, and elect to breeze through the museum. Don't make this mistake; allow more time, because the complex features a tremendous store of information and exhibits.

First head up the gangplank to the Star of India. It's impossible to miss - a three-masted, iron-hulled sailing ship that was launched in Great Britain as the Euterpe in 1863. Walk its decks and descend deep into its hold and you can't help getting a sense of its rich history: the jute trade between Britain and India, the ferrying of emigrants to New Zealand, trade in Pacific Northwest timber, Hawaiian sugar, Alaskan salmon.

A typical sailor's berth is included in the exhibits, and it looks about as inviting as a coffin. The immigrant quarters are just as claustrophobic. Women were assigned to berths that measured 18 inches wide by 54 inches long (men, by contrast, got to stretch out in a space that was all of 20 by 60 inches).

Two other vintage ships are tied up here as part of the museum complex, including an 1898 ferry boat and a 1904 steam yacht.

After stumbling around on a historic ship or riding about on the harbor, you might be inclined to relax over a seafood lunch in a waterfront restaurant, and many tourists seem to stream directly into Anthony's, a family-run establishment that sits squarely between the tour-boat dock and the museum. It's a San Diego institution and is perfectly suitable, but for an even better experience, head south on the walkway a short distance to the Fish Market restaurant.

It, too, sits at the edge of the water, and features impressive menus for either casual dining (downstairs) or a more elegant experience (upstairs). It's true to its name - there is a display counter just inside the door, where homeward-bound office workers stop by to look over the fresh filets and shellfish. Peer over the top of the counter and you'll likely see the fishmongers carving up the fresh catch with their sharp knives.

The broad selection is reflected on the menu, too. For lunch in the downstairs restaurant, we deliberated over 17 different varieties of fresh fish, from Baja California halibut to Pacific thresher shark to Hawaiian ono. There was also an extensive selection of raw oysters and sashimi, plus steamed clams, mussels and scallops.

To walk off lunch, head south along the embarcadero and you'll first come to the source of some of that menu, the commercial fishing boats in Tuna Harbor. (If this sight inspires an urge to drop a hook in the water, check out the sportfishing outfits at Scott's Harbor, just a few miles away in Point Loma.)

A short distance still farther along the walkway, you'll come into the tourist force field of Seaport Village. Don't feel embarrassed if it sucks you in; you won't be the first.

The village is a waterfront complex of 57 shops and 17 eateries, all aimed unapologetically at visitors (you'll be hard-pressed to find a San Diegan in the crowd). Inveterate shoppers will delight in specialty shops that hawk nautical knickknacks, shells, kites, seascape paintings - and of course all the standard souvenir items: T-shirts, refrigerator magnets, coffee mugs.

Nearly all of the eating establishments have takeout windows, to make it easier for strolling shoppers to slurp over popcorn, ice cream cones or (of course) bowls of clam chowder.

Don't even try to nail down the Disneyland-derivative architecture. Cape Cod meets Monterey Colonial meets Old West? But there is considerable authenticity in the Broadway Flying Horses Looff carousel, an 1890 treasure that gleams from its restoration. And various street performers are retained here to enliven the experience. During our visit, a rockabilly trio, a brass quartet and one annoying mime were performing simultaneously at various spots in the complex.

From Seaport Village or other locations along the waterfront, you can catch a water taxi over to Coronado Island - [phone]. Ferries to Coronado leave from the Broadway Pier, next to the tour-boat dock. And if money is no object in your quest to get out on the water, you can hire a yacht (with skipper) at the adjacent marina.

Simpler recreation can be found at Embarcadero Marina Park, which wraps around the entrance to the leisure-boat harbor. The broad, green expanses and shady trees make this an ideal spot for a picnic. The show is provided by the harbor itself - the continual comings and goings of crafts of all sizes, from 1,100-foot aircraft carriers to 11-foot kayaks.

It's a seaborne parade that has been passing by here for centuries. In his chronicle ``Two Years Before the Mast,'' Richard Henry Dana tells of sailing into San Diego Bay in 1835 and finding the harbor so busy that his ship promptly collided with two others just trying to get moored.

Wood railings splintered. Anchor chains rattled. Sailors cursed.

Even then, San Diegans on dry land had probably grown accustomed to such maritime melodies.

IF YOU GO

GETTING THERE: San Diego is 121 miles south of Los Angeles via Interstate 5. As you approach the downtown area on I-5, exit at Front Street/Convention Center. The off ramp will fork; take the right lane. Proceed to West Ash Street and turn right to North Harbor Drive. This will put you in the heart of the embarcadero area.

LODGING: Two hotels, a Marriott and a Hyatt, are positioned right on the water at the south end of the embarcadero. Though not normally fond of chain properties, we found the Marriott Hotel & Marina to be very comfortable, and its towers are positioned to maximize the bay views (even our lower-priced city-view room picked up a sideways view of the bay). The hotel has been offering a lot of competitive packages lately, most of which include breakfast. Web site quote for a weekend stay for two in early February: $204 per night. Information: [phone]; www.marriott.com. The Hyatt Regency is right next door. Web site quote for the same February dates: $235. Information: [phone]; www.hyatt.com. A short walk from the waterfront and also very popular is an Embassy Suites. Web quote: $209. Information: [phone]; www.embassysuites.com. Convenient to both the train station and the tour-boat docks is a Holiday Inn. Web quote: $126.50. Information: [phone]; www.holiday-inn.com.

DINING: There are more than a dozen seafood restaurants sprinkled along the waterfront, from Seaport Village to Shelter Island. One of the best is the Fish Market, 750 N. Harbor Drive (between Seaport Village and the tour boat dock). It has a casual dining room downstairs (ideal for lunch), a more elegant one upstairs. The fresh fish is abundant, and the restaurant's mesquite broiler is ideal for preparing it. Information: [phone]. If you eventually burn out on such grub and desire a change of pace, consider Rainwater's, which feels like a cross between a 1950s steak house and a private men's club. It features steaks, chops and other hearty entrees, with side dishes that are decidedly not heart-smart. It's a couple of blocks from the embarcadero, just steps from the train station, at 1202 Kettner Blvd. Don't worry: It has plenty of seafood on the menu, too. Information: [phone]. For breakfast, avoid the nondescript fare and the astronomical prices at your hotel and head to a delightful locals hangout, Cafe 222, also near the waterfront at the corner of Island Avenue and Second Avenue. The casual setting is pleasant, the food creative, and the service friendly and attentive. Information: [phone].

INFORMATION: San Diego tourist information can be obtained at [phone]; www.sandiego.org.

CAPTION(S):

10 photos, box, map

Photo:

(1 -- color) Passenger on a harbor tour take in the San Diego skyline as their boat returns to the dock. The city's downtown district is convenient to the attractions of the harbor area.

(2 -- 4 -- color) Among the features of the San Diego waterfront are, from top to bottom at left, the vintage sailing ship Star of India, which houses the Maritime Museum; eateries that perch on the water's edge, such as the San Diego Pier Cafe; and the Broadway Flying Horses, a 19th-century carousel at Seaport Village.

(5) A tourist eases away from a statue of a sheriff at Seaport Village, a statue that turns out to be street performer Bill Brinsfield.

(6) Walking along the waterfront of San Diego is an enjoyable pastime for tourists and residents alike.

(7) Kids play at the capstan of the Star of India, which is moored along San Diego's waterfront, while a docent explains the rigging to another boy.

(8) One of the businesses in Seaport Village boasts this elaborate mobile on its front porch.

(9) The impressive masts of the Star of India stand out against San Diego's brilliant sky.

(10) Strolls along the waterfront of San Diego are enhanced by views of the quite-close marina.

David Sprague/Staff Photographer

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IF YOU GO (see text)

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SAN DIEGO