ODE TO SOY SALES OF THE BEAN HAVE EXPLODED, BUT ARE ITS HEALTH BENEFITS BEING OVERSTATED?

Byline: Mariko Thompson Staff Writer

ORDER THAT LATTE with soy milk, add a sprinkling of edamame to stir fry, and don't forget the old standby block of tofu. Once dismissed as plate filler only a health-food nut could love, soy has muscled its way into supermarket aisles and shopping carts.

Fueled by research touting soy's health benefits, soy sales have nearly tripled, from $1.2 billion in 1996 to $3.3 billion today, according to the United Soybean Board. In a recent USB survey, 27 percent of Americans reported eating soy at least once a week, while 42 percent said they ate soy once a month.

Whether in the form of cereal, burgers, milk, green pods or nuts, there's a soy product for virtually every slot on the food pyramid. Soy has become the yogurt of the 2000s, says Mark Messina, senior editor of Loma Linda University's Vegetarian Nutrition & Health Letter and former program director of the National Cancer Institute's diet and cancer branch.

``In the early '70s, yogurt was healthy food that you only ate if you wanted to live to be 110,'' Messina said. ``Yogurt moved into the mainstream. The buzz about health effects has created a similar window of opportunity for soy.''

A staple in Asian countries, soy is a complete protein containing all of the amino acid building blocks. Soy also provides an anti-oxidant boost from plant chemicals called isoflavones. Forty percent of soy calories are fat calories. But as a plant food, soy is low in saturated fat - the bad kind of fat.

Soy is credited with a wide range of health benefits. Some are speculative, based in part on the lower incidences of cancer and other diseases in countries with high soy consumption, such as Japan. Messina gave an overview of where the research stands.

Health claim: Lowers cholesterol and the risk of heart disease.

Reality: Studies have shown soy has a modest effect on cholesterol levels. People with high cholesterol levels saw a 10 to 12 percent decrease. Data also suggest that isoflavones may improve other factors that contribute to coronary heart disease, such as flexibility of the arteries. The Food and Drug Administration recommends eating 25 grams (about four servings) per day to achieve cholesterol reduction benefits.

Health claim: Reduces calcium loss.

Reality: Soy protein decreases the amount of calcium excreted from the skeletal system. Lack of calcium can lead to osteoporosis, a condition that results in weakened and brittle bones.

Health claim: Prevents breast cancer.

Reality: There's no conclusive evidence that eating soy as an adult will reduce the risk of breast cancer, though research suggests preventive benefits if eaten regularly in childhood and teen-age years.

Health claim: Eliminates hot flashes in menopausal women.

Reality: Soy may provide modest improvements. In some studies, women taking placebos had similar improvements.

Health claim: Prevents prostate cancer.

Reality: Early studies show promise that eating soy can reduce the odds of getting prostate cancer.

Some scientists have raised concerns that soy could have an adverse effect on the body's hormones and increase the risk of cancer because isoflavones act as a weak form of estrogen. In approving health claims for soy on food labels, the FDA differentiated between soy protein, where the benefits are backed by dozens of clinical trials, and soy isoflavones, where debate continues. The FDA extended the health claim to soy foods, but did not include dietary supplements that isolate isoflavones.

Dr. Michael Hirt, director of the Center for Integrative Medicine at Encino-Tarzana Regional Medical Center, advises his patients against taking isoflavone tablets, saying more research needs to be done. He does advocate a diet with moderate amounts of soy foods.

``There have been some studies giving animals high unnatural doses of soy, things you can't imagine a human coming close to consuming,'' Hirt said. ``There are no studies showing normal human consumption of two to four servings a day would have any detrimental effect.''

Experts say those in good health should strive for 15 grams, or two servings per day, to receive the nutritional benefits of soy. When shopping for soy products check the labels for soy protein. Condiments like soy sauce don't contain the powerful punch of soy protein products.

The easiest way to add soy to your daily diet is at breakfast, by choosing soy milk and soy-based cereal. For mainstream tastes, Messina also likes the freshness and convenience of edamame, the green vegetable soy pods. At Japanese restaurants, they're served boiled and salted. But they also make a tasty addition to stir-fries, rice dishes and pasta dishes. Edamame, shelled and unshelled, can be found in the freezer section of most supermarkets.

For cooking, tofu and soy milk are the most versatile items, said Patricia Greenberg, host of ``Local Flavors'' on California State University, Northridge's KCSN 88.5 FM and author of several soy cookbooks. Soy milk can take the place of milk or cream in any recipe. Substitute tofu for eggs, meat and cheese, said Greenberg, who also teaches local classes on cooking with soy.

``People turn up their noses at it, but some of the soy products are just fantastic,'' Greenberg said. ``You don't need to throw out everything in your refrigerator. Treat soy as an ingredient.''

Tofu for you

Tofu has the dubious honor of being one of the most versatile soy foods - but it's also one of the most maligned.

Tofu fans say the pressed soybean cake soaks up the flavors of a dish's ingredients. Critics dislike tofu for the same reason, its lack of flavor.

To please the most palates, nutritionists recommend using tofu as a filler rather than as the star of the show. Bettye Nowlin, a Calabasas-based registered dietitian and spokeswoman for the American Dietetic Association, offered these guidelines when shopping for tofu:

-- Soft tofu: Blend and use in dressings, dips and sauces.

-- Medium tofu: Best for puddings, cheesecakes and pie fillings.

-- Firm tofu: Ideal for grilling and marinating, and for use in stir-fries and casseroles. Also try tempeh, a fermented soybean cake with a smoky or nutty flavor, which can be used in the same types of dishes as firm tofu.

- M.T.

Give soy a try

Looking for easy ways to incorporate soy into your diet? Soy experts Mark Messina, senior editor of Loma Linda University's Vegetarian Nutrition & Health Letter, and Patricia Greenberg, author of ``The Whole Soy Cookbook,'' each shared one of their favorite recipes.

SPICY PUMPKIN SOUP

1 (28-ounce) can solid-pack pumpkin

4 cups plain soy milk

2 tablespoons margarine

1 tablespoon firmly packed brown sugar or brown sugar substitute

1/2 cup freshly squeezed orange juice

1 tablespoon soy sauce

1 teaspoon dried tarragon 

1 teaspoon chili powder

1/4 teaspoon cinnamon

1/4 teaspoon mace

In a large saucepan, combine pumpkin, soy milk, margarine and brown sugar. Heat slowly, stirring, over low heat. Add remaining ingredients and cook over low heat until heated through, 2 to 3 minutes. Serve hot or cold. Makes 6 servings.

From ``The Convenient Vegetarian'' by Virginia Messina and Kate Schumann, MacMillan Publishing, 1999.

SOY CAESAR SALAD

1/4 cup olive oil

3/4 cup soy milk

4 garlic cloves, minced

1/4 cup soy Parmesan cheese

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon black pepper

1 large head romaine lettuce, rinsed and dried

2 slices whole wheat bread

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 teaspoon dried oregano 

In a medium mixing bowl, whisk together olive oil, soy milk, garlic, soy cheese, salt and pepper. Dressing can be made ahead and refrigerated for up to one week.

Tear the lettuce into bite-size pieces and chill in a large bowl.

Cut the bread into small cubes. Toss the bread with one tablespoon of olive oil and oregano. Place on an ungreased baking sheet. Bake in oven preheated to 450 degrees for 10 minutes or until brown. Remove from oven and set aside.

Just before serving, toss the lettuce with the dressing, sprinkling the croutons on top. Makes 6 servings.

From Patricia Greenberg, author of ``The Whole Soy Cookbook'' and host of ``Local Flavor,'' airing 6:30 p.m. Wednesdays on KCSN 88.5 FM. Visit www.thefitnessgourmet.com for more information.

CAPTION(S):

6 photos, 2 boxes

Photo:

(1 -- cover -- color) The buzz is that it lowers cholesterol, lessens menopausal symptoms and prevents certain cancers. What is this 21st-century wonder food

Charlotte Schmid-Maybach/Staff Photographer

(2 -- 6) Here are some ways to fit soy into your diet (bottom to top): Grains, soy-enriched bread, pasta, cereal and crackers; vegetables: edamame; dairy: soy milk, cheese and yogurt; protein: soy burgers and hot dogs, tofu and soynuts; fats: soy margarine and chips.

Box:

(1) Tofu for you (see text)

(2) Give soy a try (see text)