Not dogs anyone? Meatless market goes mainstream.

Being a carnivore can be confusing. Few have been able to identify the species of origin of the "mystery meat" served by airlines, and the perennial debate in school cafeterias as to which unmentionable animal parts have made their way into the hot dogs will probably never be settled. But today, there's a growing array of products available which originate not on the hoof but in the field - soybean and wheat fields, to be precise. Some so successfully imitate the taste and texture of meat that fast food fans are duped and vegetarians unsettled by the sinewy similarity of these products.

One reason for the growing popularity and availability of these "meat substitute" is nutritional: meat's high saturated fat and cholesterol content has led heart disease and cancer prevention-oriented people to cut back on the real thing. A related issue is food safety; a burger "with everything on it" may include a dollop of E. coli or salmonella bacteria as well as various drug residues. And many environmentalists aware of the devastating impacts of "factory" farms and slaughter-houses on land and water - and on the animals themselves - are increasingly avoiding meat for these reasons.

Meat alternatives appeal to people with such concerns as well as those who just want to try something new. Since these products are not of animal origin, they are cholesterol free, lower in saturated fat, and not subject to the same contamination problems. The high soy content of many meat substitutes makes them a good source of protein and provides a growing market for bioregionally-correct, American-grown soybeans, 90 percent of which are now fed to livestock.

The most popular meat substitutes, not counting the ubiquitous bacon-flavored bits which are generally used as a salad topping, are pseudo-frankfurters - a tofu success story. Tofu is naturally chewy and so is pulverized pork, beef or poultry. The characteristic frankfurter flavor comes mainly from various seasonings. So soy-based hot dogs readily satisfy our expectations of what a hot dog should look, smell, taste and chew like. "My husband's a real meat and potatoes man," says Ida Halpern. "But he chowed down a veggie franks-and-beans dinner last week, and he never knew the difference." Many "not dog" brands (including Not Dogs themselves) are now available, mostly in health food stores, but increasingly in supermarkets, too. Yves Tofu Wieners browned in a pan with a little oil have a particularly good taste, especially when served on a whole wheat bun.

Also in the totally-convincing category are Worthington Food's Morningstar Farms Meatless Breakfast Links, a sausage imitation often found near the cholesterol-free egg substitutes in the supermarket frozen foods sections. Not for vegans (vegetarians who eat no eggs or dairy), this product contains egg white, which lightens up its texture, compared with other brands which can be denser.

Tempeh - a chewy melange of cultured soybeans and brown rice - is the star in Lightlife's Fakin' Bacon. This product and other bacon substitutes work well with eggs or in sandwiches (finally, a cholesterol and nitrate-free BLT!) rather than as a stand-alone.

Cold cuts are also making a debut in soy and wheat-based disguises. New products include "turkey," "ham" and "beef" slices as well as Yves' Veggie Pepperoni and Lightlife's Foney Baloney. Depending on your perspective and taste buds, these items can be a great boon or a great bust.

In the meatless burger arena, the big news is that Archer Daniel Midland's (ADM) Harvest Burger, a frozen soy patty, will be marketed under Pillsbury's Green Giant label, and will debut in over 50 percent of U.S. grocery stores by next fall - a development which attests to the successful mainstreaming of meatless meats. "We have the product and Pillsbury has the shelf space," noted ADM chair Dwayne Andreas. "We're combining our strengths." The agreement may require ADM to double its production to a billion Harvest Burgers a year.

Veggie-burgers run the gamut from those which truly substitute for the taste, texture and appearance of beef to patties whose only hamburger-like trait is the ability to fit nicely on a bun. Beef burger mimics like Yves Burger Burger taste best when barbecue-grilled and served with all the traditional fixin's. The flavorings in these (usually soy-based) burgers are used to impart a beef-like taste, not just to copy a seasoning profile as in the sausage and hot dog products. While some people adore these beefy tasting burgers, others describe them as "too weird" and would rather eat a delicious grain or vegetable-based patty that doesn't try to taste like anything other than what it is.

The most widely available (even in some restaurant chains) of this product genre is Wholesome and Hearty Foods' Gardenburger. It consists predominantly of mushrooms, onions, oats and rice, but also contains some egg white and lowfat cheese made from vegetable rennet. Although they don't barbecue particularly well, Gardenburgers are delicious heated up in a pan or oven. A similar patty is featured in Amy's Kitchen frozen Vegetarian Salisbury Steak Dinner. A new-age TV dinner, the "steak" is accompanied by organic green beans, mashed potatoes and apple crisp - definitely worth a trip to the health food store to have on hand in a pinch.

Also noteworthy is Worthington's Natural Touch Garden Grain Pattie, made from a variety of vegetables bound together by soy, wheat and egg protein. It has an egg foo yung-ish feel to it and is delicious served with a healthy gravy, easily mixed up using equal parts sesame tahini, tamari sauce and water.

Lightlife Grills' line of veggie burgers made from tempeh are also widely available. These have a hearty texture, and come in burger, lemon and barbecue flavor marinades. Dry mixes which need no refrigeration, like Nature's Burger, are also tasty. Your best bet is just to pick up a few of the many dairy- and egg-free burger products available at your health food store and do some taste-testing.

If you prefer a lower-tech approach, try The Farm's unflavored textured vegetable protein (TVP), made from soy. It comes in granules (great for chili) or chewy nuggets (good in curries or marinated and skewered for shish kebabs). Like good ol' tofu, which develops a "meatier" texture if you freeze then thaw it before cooking, TVP takes on the flavor of any food, spice or sauce you cook it with. This adaptable characteristic is also shared by "seitan," a chewy wheat gluten product which substitutes nicely for beef chunks in stews and stroganoffs, and which is available in health food stores under a number of brand names.

Such a variety of meat alternatives can be incorporated into all kinds of menus and eating occasions. But the grand question still remains, particularly at this time of year: If you don't want to serve a turkey on Thanksgiving Day, what in the world do you put in the middle of the table? Of course, there's no law that requires one large dominant item on a holiday table - many people have "traditional" Thanksgiving dinners complete with cranberry sauce, mashed potatoes, stuffing and pumpkin pie; they simply hold "the bird."

For those who prefer a main course, thawing out numerous packages of veggie burgers and molding them into a pseudo-gobbler is not necessary. You can opt to make a gravy-topped grain, bean, rice or vegetable-based "roast" as the featured repast - there are myriads of recipes in various vegetarian cookbooks. The Moosewood Cookbook's recipe for "Comprehensively Stuffed Squash" is a real crowd pleaser. Frozen prepared items such as Worthington Foods' Nine Bean Loaf also make a nice alternative.

My favorite festive edible centerpiece is a stuffed pumpkin - a traditional Thanksgiving food served in an untraditional way. Just bake a medium-sized pumpkin (remove the seeds first) in a 350-degree oven for 20 minutes, then stuff with your favorite fruit and/or nut stuffing - you can even toss in some chopped soy sausage. Bake for another 45 minutes; then eat heartily. Repeat at Christmas time. Happy holidays!