New Zealand venison and red onion marmalade with a spring bean ragout. (Serves 6).

ingredients

For the venison

2 2-pound Cervena venison racks (*)

1/4 cup canola oil

For the veal stock:

1 pound veal bones, blanched and rinsed

1 yellow onion, peeled and chopped

1 leek, white part only, cleaned and chopped

1 stalk celery, chopped

1 bouquet garni

1 quart water

For the red onion marmalade:

1 cup red wine vinegar

1/2 cup granulated sugar

4 small red onions, peeled and sliced into 1/8-inch rings

1 whole clove

1 bunch chives, minced

Salt, sugar, and pepper to taste

For the sauce:

1/3 cup canola oil

Reserved venison bones and trimmings

1 small yellow onion, peeled and chopped

1 small carrot, peeled and chopped

1 leek, white part only, chopped

1/4 cup water

1/4 cup chicken stock

2 1/4 cups veal stock

Salt and pepper to taste

For the beans:

1/2 pound apple wood smoked bacon, chopped fine (**)

3 cups shelled limas

1 1/4 quarts chicken stock

1 shallot, peeled and minced

1 tablespoon white wine vinegar

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 small carrot, peeled, small dice, blanched, and shocked

1 small turnip, peeled, small dice, blanched, and shocked

1 leek, white part only, small dice, blanched, and shocked

Salt and pepper to taste

For the garnish:

Cracked black pepper

Sel Gris

Chervil

(*)Available through Kali Night Bird at [phone].

(**)Available through Hobbs Smoked Meat Company at [phone].

directions

For the venison, using a boning knife, french one venison rack, reserving the bone and meat separately. Tie with butchers' twine to secure and set aside. De-bone the remaining venison rack and tie with butchers' twine to secure. Reserve all keeping chilled.

For the veal stock, in a small saucepan over medium heat, bring all of the ingredients to a boil. Reduce the heat and maintain at a simmer for five hours, skimming the surface as needed. Remove from the heat, strain through a fine mesh sieve, and reserve keeping warm.

For the red onion marmalade, in a medium saute pan over low heat, simmer the vinegar and granulated sugar, until thick, about eight minutes. Add the onions and clove, stir to coat, and cover with a piece of parchment paper. Maintain at a simmer until almost all dry, about 30 minutes. Remove from the heat, season, and reserve keeping warm.

For the sauce, in a medium saucepan, heat the canola oil over high heat. Add the venison hones and trim and saute until golden brown, about eight minutes. Using a metal spoon, transfer the bones and trim to a plate, and maintain the hot saute pan. Add the onion, carrot, and leek and saute until golden brown, about five minutes. Return the bones to the saucepan, add the water, chicken stock, and veal stock, and simmer until reduced to one cup, about an hour, skimming the surface as needed. Remove from the heat and strain through a fine mesh sieve. Repeat two more times. Return to a small saucepan over medium heat and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer, until thick, about 10 minutes. Remove from the heat, season, and reserve keeping warm.

For the beans, in a medium saucepan over low heat, saute the bacon for five minutes. Add the beans and toss to coat. Add the chicken stock and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and maintain at a simmer until the beans are tender, about 20 minutes. Remove from the heat, season, and reserve, keeping warm.

To finish the venison, preheat the oven to 350 degrees. In a large, ovenproof saute pan, heat the canola oil over high heat. Season and sear the venison rack and venison loin on all sides until golden brown. Transfer to the oven and roast until desired doneness. Remove from the heat and set aside to rest for five minutes. Transfer to a cutting board, slice the rack into six chops, slice the loin thin, and reserve, keeping warm.

To finish the beans, strain through a fine mesh sieve and discard the liquid. In a medium saucepan over medium heat, combine the beans, bacon, shallot, vinegar, butter vegetables, some veal sauce, and toss to coat. Simmer until warmed through and remove from the heat. Season and reserve, keeping warm.

To serve, place a 3-inch ring mold in the center of a plate, fill with red onion marmalade and minced chives, and remove mold. Spoon some beans on top and arrange a venison chop and some sliced venison loin on top. Drizzle some venison sauce around dish, sprinkle with pepper and sel gris and garnish with chervil.

Zinfandel, Jackass Hill Vineyards

Martinelli

Fulton, California 1998