NUTTY FOR PEANUT BUTTER AMERICA'S FAVORITE SPREADS BEYOND THE HUMBLE SANDWICH.

Byline: Natalie Haughton Food Editor

Peanut butter is the ultimate American comfort food.

Found in more than 85 percent of American kitchens, it's a staple that can be mixed and matched with a variety of ingredients for a number of sweet and savory dishes.

``Peanut butter is far more than a spread,'' write Bruce Weinstein and Mark Scarbrough, co-authors of ``The Ultimate Peanut Butter Book'' (William Morrow; $16.95). ``It's an American original, an invention up there with the likes of Model A's, apple pie, Mark Twain novels, ice cream cones and Fanny Crosby hymns.''

Peanut butter consumption has increased more than 10 percent since 2001, with Americans eating an average of 3 pounds of peanut butter per person a year.

Georgia - the largest peanut-producing state, where more than half of this country's peanuts are grown - had a bumper crop last year, up 15 percent from 2004, according to the National Peanut Board. In Texas, the second-largest peanut-producing state, the crop also increased last year, by 16 percent.

Although peanut butter is associated with kids, adults consume far more of it than kids do each year.

Now 32, Lee Zalben was so obsessed with peanut butter while growing up in Philadelphia that, after graduating from Vassar (with a B.A. in Urban Studies) and moving to New York for an advertising career, he chucked it all to become an entrepreneur and open a peanut butter sandwich shop in Greenwich Village in 1998.

Today, the ever-popular Peanut Butter & Co. restaurant offers more than 20 variations on the PB sandwich theme, along with a variety of peanut butter-based snacks and desserts. Some 5,000 stores now sell the six flavors of his delicious natural peanut butters (Smooth Operator, Crunch Time, Cinnamon Raisin Swirl, The Heat Is On, White Chocolate Wonderful and Dark Chocolate Dreams - the last two are the top sellers). Some will be included in the Screen Actors Guild Awards gift bags later this month, along with a copy of his book. < In his recently released ``The Peanut Butter & Co Cookbook (Quirk Books; $16.95), Zalben spreads his joy of peanut butter in 80 gooey, tempting recipes, ranging from Peanut Butter Scones and Thai Peanut Soup to Cold Sesame Noodles and Peanut Butter Brittle.

``You can never have too much peanut butter. The thing I remember most from my childhood was that when my mom would bring out the peanut butter jar and a loaf of bread, I got to feel like a cook for the first time and make my own lunch,'' recalls Zalben of his experience as a 4-year-old.

``One of my favorite sandwiches now is crunchy peanut butter with apricot jam on wheat bread,'' he adds.

At his restaurant, the most popular sandwich is the Elvis, a combination of peanut butter, bananas, honey and crisp bacon on white bread, which is then grilled. You'll find the recipe in the book along with more than two dozen other creations served at the restaurant, including the most popular non-sandwich, a Chocolate-Peanut Butter Pie.

While some prefer the flavor of natural peanut butter to the standard variety, others don't see a huge difference. For best results, if you plan to use natural peanut butter in cooking, make sure the oil has been incorporated.

Also, be aware that if you substitute standard commercial varieties for natural, recipes may end up sweeter-tasting, since standard peanut butters contain added sugar.

Weinstein opts for using natural peanut butter in savory dishes, and uses mostly standard commercial peanut butters in baking and sweet recipes.

``Peanut butter is a really good ingredient for a whole array of different kinds of ingredients,'' he says. The 125 recipes in his book showcase the product's flexibility - from peanut butter hummus dip, peanut butter potstickers and peanut butter-glazed ham to peanut butter bread pudding and peanut butter biscotti.

Natural peanut butters usually separate over time because, unlike standard commercial varieties, they contain no stabilizers, notes Zalben, who uses a tiny bit of palm oil (not palm kernel oil) as a stabilizer in his four flavored varieties.

According to the U.S. Department of Agriculture, both natural and standard commercial brands of peanut butter contain no detectable trans-fatty acids, points out Marie Fenn, president and managing director of the Atlanta-based National Peanut Board, even though some peanut butters contain 1 to 2 percent partially hydrogenated oil as stabilizers to prevent oil separation and produce a smooth and creamy product.

Although peanut butter is high in fat - mostly the good monounsaturated and polyunsaturated fats (along with a little undesirable saturated fat) - it is a good source of protein, has 13 vitamins, 26 minerals and no cholesterol. Because it tastes good, is easy to use, enhances the flavor of other foods and works well in a variety of cuisines - including Asian, African, Indian and Latin American - peanut butter fits readily into today's busy lifestyles.

Natalie Haughton, [phone]

natalie.haughton(at)dailynews.com

PEANUT BUTTER BROWNIES

1 1/2 cups packed brown sugar

1 (16-ounce) jar creamy natural peanut butter

3/4 cup butter OR margarine, melted

4 eggs, lightly beaten

1 cup all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon baking powder

Dash salt

3 cups powdered sugar

1/2 teaspoon vanilla

3 to 5 tablespoons milk

Combine brown sugar, 1 1/4 cups peanut butter and 1/2 cup butter in medium bowl; mix until smooth. Add eggs; beat until well mixed.

Combine flour, baking powder and salt; stir into peanut butter mixture until well mixed. Pour into a greased 13x9-inch baking pan. Bake in a preheated 350-degree oven 25 to 30 minutes or until brownies begin to pull away from sides. Cool on wire rack.

Combine remaining peanut butter, remaining 1/4 cup butter, powdered sugar, vanilla and 3 tablespoons milk. Beat until smooth. Stir in more milk until frosting is of spreading consistency. Spread over brownies. Makes 2 dozen.

NOTE: Stir in 1 cup peanut butter chips or semisweet chocolate chips if desired, before baking.

CHOCOLATE-PEANUT BUTTER PIE

CRUST:

2 cups crushed chocolate wafer cookies

3/4 cup (1 1/2 sticks) unsalted butter

1/2 cup semisweet chocolate chips

FILLING:

1 cup heavy whipping cream 

1/2 of an 8-ounce package cream cheese (4 ounces)

3/4 cup smooth natural peanut butter

1/2 cup powdered sugar

2 tablespoons whole milk

2 tablespoons vanilla

TOPPING:

1/4 cup semisweet chocolate chips

1/4 cup peanut butter chips

3 tablespoons roasted, salted peanuts, coarsely chopped

Whipped cream, for garnish

To make Crust, place crushed chocolate wafer cookies into a 10-inch glass pie plate. Add 1/4 cup (1/2 stick) butter, melted, and toss with a fork until all crumbs are coated. Use your hands to press crust onto bottom and sides of pie plate. Refrigerate 10 minutes to set.

Make a double boiler by filling a medium saucepan halfway with water and placing a large glass bowl on top. Bring water to a boil and then turn off heat. Add remaining 1/2 cup (1 stick) butter and 1/2 cup chocolate chips and stir until chocolate is completely melted. Gently pour chocolate mixture into pie shell and tilt to coat bottom evenly.

To make Filling, in a medium bowl, using an electric mixer, whip cream until firm. For best results, start with very cold cream. Beat at low speed about 30 seconds, then turn mixer speed to high, continuing to beat until cream is firm and holds a peak. Place cream in refrigerator.

In a large mixing bowl, use an electric mixer to combine cream cheese, peanut butter, powdered sugar, milk and vanilla. Beat for about 30 seconds or until well combined. Remove whipped cream from refrigerator and carefully fold into peanut butter mixture.

To assemble pie, pour filling into prepared pie crust, spreading evenly. Top with chocolate chips, peanut butter chips and peanuts. Cover with plastic wrap and place pie in freezer about 1 hour or longer to set.

About 1 hour before serving, transfer pie from freezer to refrigerator. At serving time, cut pie into slices and garnish each slice with a dollop of whipped cream. Makes 6 servings.

From ``The Peanut Butter & Co. Cookbook: Recipes From the World's Nuttiest Sandwich Shop,'' by Lee Zalben.

OLD-FASHIONED PEANUT BUTTER COOKIES

2 1/2 cups flour

1 teaspoon baking powder

1 teaspoon baking soda 

1 teaspoon salt

1 1/4 cups smooth natural peanut butter

1 cup vegetable shortening

1 teaspoon vanilla

1 cup granulated sugar

1 cup packed light brown sugar

2 large eggs

In a large bowl, sift together flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt; set aside.

In a separate large bowl, using an electric mixer, combine peanut butter, shortening and vanilla. Add granulated sugar and brown sugar and beat until fluffy. Add eggs, one at a time, and continue beating until well combined. Add dry ingredients, 1/2 cup at a time, beating until dough is firm.

Use a tablespoon to make 1-inch balls of dough and place 3 inches apart on an ungreased cookie sheet. Using a fork, press down on each cookie twice, making a crisscross pattern on top of cookie.

Bake on the center rack of a preheated 350-degree oven 10 to 12 minutes, or until golden. Allow to cool 5 to 10 minutes before serving. Store in an airtight container up to 2 weeks. Makes 3 dozen cookies.

From ``The Peanut Butter & Co. Cookbook: Recipes From the World's Nuttiest Sandwich Shop,'' by Lee Zalben.

ZESTY PEANUT SAUCE

1 cup smooth OR crunchy peanut butter

1 cup unsweetened coconut milk

1/4 cup fresh lime juice

3 tablespoons soy sauce

2 tablespoons dark brown sugar

2 teaspoons finely minced fresh ginger root

2 cloves garlic, minced

1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper OR to taste

1/2 cup chicken stock

1/2 cup heavy whipping cream

Chopped fresh cilantro, for garnish

Combine peanut butter, coconut milk, lime juice, soy sauce, brown sugar, ginger, garlic and cayenne in a heavy saucepan. Cook over medium heat, stirring constantly, about 15 minutes or until thickened.

Whisk in stock and cream. Cook 1 minute more, whisking. Spoon over hot cooked boneless chicken breast and sprinkle with cilantro. Or use as sauce for chicken satays. Makes enough for 8 servings.

PEANUT CHICKEN LETTUCE ROLL-UPS

1 (3-ounce) package ramen noodles (any flavor)

1 (1/2-inch) piece peeled fresh ginger root, grated

2 cloves garlic, minced

3 tablespoons creamy natural peanut butter

1/3 cup rice vinegar

1/4 cup reduced-sodium soy sauce

2 cups coarsely chopped cooked chicken

1/2 cup chopped red bell pepper

1/2 cup chopped water chestnuts

4 green onions, sliced diagonally into 1/4-inch slices

2 tablespoons chopped cilantro

12 leaves Boston lettuce, rinsed and dried

1 cup low-sugar sweet orange marmalade, optional

Break ramen noodles, save flavor packet for another use, if desired. Cook noodles according to package directions; drain.

Spray a large nonstick skillet with no-stick cooking spray. Add ginger and garlic and cook on medium-high heat 1 minute. Add peanut butter, rice vinegar and soy sauce, stirring over medium heat until well combined. Remove pan from heat. Add chicken, noodles, red pepper, water chestnuts, green onions and cilantro. Mix to combine well. Cool; cover and refrigerate.

To serve, top each lettuce leaf with noodle salad; turn in sides and roll up. If desired, heat 1 cup marmalade in a microwave-safe bowl on high (100 percent) power 20 seconds or until melted. Serve as a dipping sauce for roll-ups. Makes 6 servings.

COLD SESAME NOODLES

1 (1-pound) package spaghetti

1 red bell pepper, julienned

1 large cucumber, julienned

1 green onion, chopped

2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint

1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro

2/3 cup smooth natural peanut butter

1 small yellow onion, chopped

3 cloves garlic

1 1/2 tablespoons grated fresh ginger

1/3 cup rice vinegar

1/3 cup soy sauce

3 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice

3 tablespoons toasted sesame oil

Cook spaghetti according to directions on package. Drain and rinse with cold water.

In a large bowl, combine spaghetti with red bell pepper, cucumber, green onion, mint and cilantro.

In a blender, puree peanut butter, yellow onion, garlic, ginger, vinegar, soy sauce, lime juice and sesame oil until smooth.

Toss sauce over pasta and vegetables. Refrigerate 1 hour before serving for optimum flavor. Serve chilled or at room temperature. Makes 6 servings.

From ``The Peanut Butter & Co. Cookbook: Recipes From the World's Nuttiest Sandwich Shop,'' by Lee Zalben.

Did you know?

--Peanuts are botanically classified as legumes (edible seeds enclosed in pods), not nuts. The peanut plant originated in South America. Peanuts flower above ground and then migrate underground to reach maturity. From planting (in April or May) to harvest (during September, October and November), the peanut growth cycle is about five months.

--Peanut butter was introduced in 1890, when an unknown St. Louis physician encouraged the owner of a food company to process and package a ground peanut paste as a nutritious protein substitute for people who had difficulty chewing.

--In 1904, peanut butter made its world debut at the Universal Exposition in St. Louis, but it was not until 1922 that it became commercially available.

--More than half of each year's peanut crop is churned into peanut butter.

--As defined by the FDA's Standard of Identity, peanut butter must contain at least 90 percent peanuts with no more than 10 percent by weight of seasonings and stabilizing ingredients. If it contains less, it must be labeled a peanut spread.

--Sixty percent of Americans prefer smooth over crunchy peanut butter. West Coasters and men prefer chunky peanut butter, while East Coasters, women and children like creamy.

--Four different kinds of peanuts are grown in the United States - Virginia, Spanish, Runner and Valencia. If you plan to try your hand at making your own peanut butter, use Runner or Spanish varieties for the best-tasting and -textured results. Most peanut butter in this country is made from Runner peanuts. Also, use unsalted peanuts for your own peanut butter so you can control the amount of salt in the finished product.

--To make flavored peanut butters at home similar to those produced by Peanut Butter & Co., here's what Lee Zalben, the company's founder, recommends.

--For a swirled cinnamon raisin version, add 1 tablespoon sugar, 1 teaspoon cinnamon and 1/4 cup raisins to 1 cup smooth natural peanut butter.

--For a hot and spicy peanut butter variation, stir 1 teaspoon crushed red pepper and 1 teaspoon cayenne pepper or hot sauce into 1 cup smooth natural peanut butter.

--For a white chocolate peanut butter, stir 2 tablespoons white chocolate chips, gently melted, into 1 cup smooth peanut butter, and for a dark chocolate version, add 2 tablespoons semisweet chocolate chips, gently melted, to the same amount of peanut butter.

--To make 1 cup smooth natural peanut butter at home, Zalben says to process 2 cups unsalted dry-roasted peanuts in a food processor to a paste, then add 1/2 teaspoon peanut oil and pulse for another minute. Add another 1/2 teaspoon peanut oil and pulse until peanut butter is smooth enough for your taste. Taste and add a pinch or two finely ground sea salt. Store in a covered plastic or glass container in a cool, dry place. If oil separates out, just stir it back in.

--Four of the 10 most popular candy bars manufactured in the United States contain peanuts or peanut butter.

--Look for the ``sell by'' date on the jar when purchasing peanut butter. Store natural peanut butter in the fridge and regular peanut butter at room temperature (or in the fridge). Freezing peanut butter is not recommended.

--Two tablespoons of peanut butter contains about 190 calories, 16 grams total fat and 8 grams protein.

- Natalie Haughton

Sources: National Peanut Board, ``Wellness Foods A to Z,'' ``The Ultimate Peanut Butter Book,'' ``The Peanut Butter & Co. Cookbook,'' Skippy Peanut Butter at www.peanutbutter.com.

CAPTION(S):

7 photos, box

Photo:

(1 -- cover -- color) Spread the love

Peanut butter shows its versatility

(2 -- color) PEANUT CHICKEN LETTUCE ROLL-UPS

From the J.M. Smucker Co.

(3 -- color) CHOCOLATE-PEANUT BUTTER PIE

(4 -- color) COLD SESAME NOODLES

From ``The Peanut Butter & Co. Cookbook,'' Quirk Books

(5 -- color) no caption (slice of bread)

(6 -- color) Peanut Butter Brownies

(7 -- color) Old-Fashion Peanut Butter Cookies

Box:

Did you know? (see text)