NOW IT CAN ALWAYS BE A BERRY GOOD YEAR.

Byline: Natalie Haughton Food Editor

Think strawberries. Think nearly year-round fruit. That's the message the California Strawberry Commission is striving to get out to consumers.

They're not just a spring fruit anymore, thanks to diverse growing regions. From early January through mid-May, strawberries are generally available from San Diego and Orange County, notes Dominique Hansen, communications director of the Watsonville-based commission. The season works its way up the coast, and, from late March to the end of June, berries become available from Oxnard and Santa Maria. Watsonville and Salinas supply berries from mid- to late April through October. And Oxnard, which plants some acreage now, then comes back into production in October and November.

Generally, peak season is April, May and June, with all areas in the state in production simultaneously. This year's crop - anticipated to be 80 million trays (six pint baskets to a tray) down from last year's record crop of 87 million trays - is of excellent quality and consumer demand is strong, says Hansen. After some unstable conditions earlier in the year, the weather has cooperated, contributing to beautiful, great-tasting fruit so far. Depending on Mother Nature, California consumers can expect to find plenty of strawberries in the months ahead. ``Over 50 percent of our crop is picked after June,'' says Hansen.

Although varieties vary from area to area and grower to grower, you'll find the Camarosa variety grown mostly from Oxnard south and the Diamante variety from Santa Maria north.

Some shippers like Driscoll's, the largest supplier of fresh strawberries (about 25 percent) in the country, use their own proprietary plants and growers, says Susan Boyer, president of Food Marketing Resources, San Ramon, and a consultant to Driscoll's in Watsonville. In addition to California, Driscoll's has growing areas in Florida and Mexico, which produce fruit in winter.

But no matter the variety, the goal is to satisfy consumer demand for beautiful, flavorful berries.

California produces 83 percent of the U.S. crop, with 25 percent going into frozen or canned items and another 12 percent being exported to places like Canada, Japan and Mexico.

When it comes to selecting berries, choose those with a consistent red color throughout, a good shine (not dull) and with a fresh and unwilted calyx (the little green leaves on the crown of the berry). They should be firm and free from mold. ``If the berries smell good, they probably are good,'' says Hansen.

Keep in mind that berries, unlike some fruits, don't ripen after picking. ``What you see is what you get,'' says Boyer, adding that size and color are not indicative of flavor but have to do with variety.

You may have noticed that many more strawberries are now sold in clear plastic ventilated clamshell containers rather than green plastic baskets. They were developed by Driscoll's in the early '90s - in response to consumer demand for packaging that protects the berries but allows them to be seen from all sides as well to save retailers labor (from repackaging and covering the top of the open berries with clear wrap), says Boyer. The 1-pound clamshell is most common (8-ounce and 2-pound clamshells are also available) with the weight only slightly more than the 1-pint basket. The strawberry commission recently began rewriting its recipes to reflect this change.

Don't overlook the versatility of strawberries. Besides enjoying them in their natural state, they can be served in meals from breakfast to dinner as well as snacks and desserts. Beyond pies, cheesecakes, smoothies and chocolate-dipped strawberries, experiment with them in savory creations like mango salsa, avocado salsa, spinach or other green salads, vinaigrettes, halibut with a strawberry salsa, chicken breasts with a red wine and balsamic sauce, curried chicken salad and more. For fun, a strawberry risotto, mascarpone-style fruit bruschetta and a recipe for strawberries roasted in the oven are also included.

STRAWBERRY-STUFFED FRENCH TOAST

2/3 cup (about 6 ounces) reduced-fat cream cheese (Neufchatel cheese), softened

1/2 cup maple syrup

8 slices bread

3 cups (about 1 pound) stemmed and sliced fresh strawberries

2 eggs

3 tablespoons milk

1 tablespoon butter

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

Powdered sugar (optional)

In a small bowl, using fork, mix cheese and 2 tablespoon maple syrup until blended. Spread 1 side of each bread slice with cheese mixture, dividing evenly. Cover EACH of 4 slices with just enough sliced strawberries to cover surface; reserve remaining strawberries. Close sandwiches with remaining 4 bread slices, facing cheese side down. Press together lightly.

In a shallow dish, beat eggs and milk until blended. In a large nonstick skillet, heat butter and oil over medium heat until hot. Dip sandwiches into egg mixture, turning to soak both sides; place in skillet. Cook 5 to 6 minutes or until browned, turning once.

Meanwhile, in a small saucepan, combine remaining 6 tablespoons maple syrup and remaining strawberries. Heat over low heat just until warmed; remove from heat. Sift powdered sugar, if desired, over French toast; cut each diagonally in half. Serve immediately with warm strawberry mixture. Makes 4 servings.

GOUDA AND STRAWBERRY SALAD

6 cups romaine, spinach OR radicchio greens

8 ounces sliced Gouda cheese, cut in wedge shape

1 1/2 cups sliced fresh strawberries

Strawberry Vinaigrette

1/2 cup toasted chopped pecans

Arrange greens on 4 salad plates. Arrange cheese and strawberries alternately on greens, dividing evenly. Drizzle Strawberry Vinaigrette over salads, using as much as desired. Garnish each salad with 2 tablespoons pecans. Makes 4 servings.

STRAWBERRY VINAIGRETTE: Whisk together 1/4 cup seedless strawberry jam OR strawberry preserves, 3/4 cup extra virgin olive oil, 3/4 cup red wine, strawberry OR raspberry vinegar and salt and pepper to taste. Place in jar with lid and chill until ready to use.

STRAWBERRY SPINACH SALAD WITH TOASTED ALMONDS

2 bunches fresh spinach, washed, trimmed and well dried

1/2 cup slivered almonds

1/2 cup orange juice concentrate (undiluted)

1/2 cup mayonnaise

2 cups fresh strawberries, rinsed, hulled and sliced

Tear spinach leaves into bite-sized pieces and place in a glass bowl. Cover with plastic wrap and chill.

Place almonds in a shallow pan and toast in preheated 350-degree oven 10 to 12 minutes. Let cool.

For dressing, whisk together orange juice concentrate and mayonnaise until well blended. To serve, pour dressing over spinach and toss until well coated. Serve on salad plates. Sprinkle each with some of strawberries and almonds. Makes 6 servings.

STRAWBERRY BRUSCHETTA

1 (8-ounce) loaf baguette-style French bread

1 (8-ounce) container mascarpone cheese OR 1 (8-ounce) tub cream cheese

2 tablespoons brown sugar

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

16 fresh strawberries, rinsed, hulled and sliced

Honey

Slice bread into 1/2-inch slices; arrange on a cookie sheet. Bake in preheated 375-degree oven about 8 to 10 minutes or until golden. Turn oven setting to broil.

Meanwhile, mix together mascarpone, brown sugar and cinnamon. Spread cheese mixture on one side of each toasted baguette slice.

Broil bread slices 4 inches from heat about 1 minute or until cheese is hot. Arrange strawberry slices on cheese. Lightly drizzle each bread slice with honey, if desired (or sprinkle with a little powdered sugar). Serve immediately. Makes 12 to 16 servings.

ROASTED STRAWBERRY SUNDAES

1 (1-pound) package fresh strawberries, whole, halved OR quartered

1/4 cup sugar

2 teaspoons lemon juice

2 tablespoons Framboise, brandy OR raspberry flavored syrup

1 pint vanilla OR strawberry OR raspberry ice cream OR gelato 

Rinse, drain and hull berries. Turn into bowl and sprinkle with sugar and lemon juice. Toss gently to coat. Turn coated berries into a shallow casserole or ovenproof 10-inch skillet and arrange in single layer. Roast in preheated 500-degree oven, stirring twice until berries are just softened and syrup forms, about 5 minutes. Remove from oven. Stir in framboise. Let cool 5 to 10 minutes.

Divide ice cream among 4 bowls. Spoon warm berries and sauce over. (Can also be served over pound or angel food cake slices.) Makes 4 servings.

STRAWBERRY, KIWI AND CUCUMBER SALSA WITH HALIBUT

1 pint fresh strawberries, rinsed, hulled and chopped

4 kiwi, peeled and chopped

1 small cucumber, peeled, seeded and chopped

1 tablespoon chopped fresh mint

1/4 teaspoon EACH salt and toasted cumin seed, ground, OR ground cumin, (see Note)

Juice of 2 limes 

1 tablespoon EACH unsalted butter and vegetable oil

6 halibut steaks OR other white fish, about 6 ounces each

1 cup basmati OR jasmine rice, cooked according to package directions

Place strawberries, kiwi, cucumber, mint, salt, cumin and lime juice in a non-aluminum bowl. Stir; set aside to allow flavors to blend.

Meanwhile, heat butter and oil in oven-proof skillet. Sprinkle fish with salt. Add to skillet. Cook until fish turns opaque halfway up sides, about 2 minutes. Transfer to oven. Bake in preheated 400-degree oven until cooked through, about 7 minutes. To serve, mound rice on plates. Place fish on top. Divide salsa around fish. Makes 6 servings.

NOTE: Toast cumin seeds in a small skillet over medium heat until fragrant, stirring occasionally, about 5 minutes.

Adapted from ``The Dining Room,'' Kendall College, Evanston, Ill.

STRAWBERRY SAUTE

3 tablespoons butter

1/4 cup coarsely chopped walnuts

3 tablespoons dark brown sugar

2 cups fresh strawberries, rinsed, hulled and halved OR quartered

3 tablespoons grated semisweet chocolate

1/4 cup crumbled cookies

In a medium skillet, melt butter until bubbly. Add walnuts; cook and stir briefly, just until nuts begin to color. Add brown sugar and stir 20 to 30 seconds.

Remove pan from heat. Add strawberries and chocolate. Quickly stir to coat berries and melt chocolate. Spoon over ice cream, custard pie or angel food cake. Sprinkle with crumbled cookies. Makes 4 servings.

STRAWBERRIES IN BALSAMIC VINEGAR

2 (1-pound) packages fresh strawberries

1 cup packed light brown sugar

1/2 cup balsamic vinegar

1/4 teaspoon salt

Rinse, drain and hull strawberries. Gently toss with sugar, vinegar and salt. Chill about 30 minutes. Toss once more, then drain and spoon into glass serving bowls or glasses. Save juice and stir into sparkling water or drizzle over ice cream, brownies, angel food or pound cake. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

STRAWBERRY AVOCADO SALSA

1 (8-ounce) can pineapple chunks OR tidbits 

1 small avocado, pitted and diced

1 (1-pound) package fresh strawberries, rinsed, hulled and diced

1/2 to 1 whole jalapeno pepper, seeded and minced

1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar

1/2 teaspoon onion salt

Drain and reserve 2 tablespoons pineapple juice. In a glass or pottery bowl, combine pineapple, reserved pineapple juice, avocado, strawberries, jalapenos, balsamic vinegar and onion salt. Let stand 5 to 10 minutes for flavors to blend. Serve with chips, or over grilled halibut or chicken breasts. Makes about 3 1/2 cups.

STRAWBERRY MUFFINS

2 cups flour

2 teaspoons baking powder

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 cup plus 6 teaspoons sugar

1 1/2 cups chopped fresh strawberries

2 eggs

1 stick (1/2 cup) unsalted butter, melted

1/2 cup whole milk

1 teaspoon vanilla

Combine flour, baking powder, salt and 1 cup sugar in a medium bowl. Toss in strawberries; set aside. Beat together eggs, butter, milk and vanilla in a small bowl. Add wet ingredients to dry ingredients; stir until just combined.

Spoon batter into muffin tins lined with paper liners. Sprinkle 1/2 teaspoon sugar on top of each muffin. Bake in preheated 375-degree oven until a toothpick inserted into center comes out clean, about 25 minutes. Makes 12 muffins.

Developed by Chicago Tribune test kitchen.

GRILLED CHICKEN BREASTS IN STRAWBERRY, RED WINE BALSAMIC SAUCE

1 (16-ounce) package fresh strawberries

2 teaspoons light olive oil

2/3 cup sliced shallots

1 clove garlic, crushed

1 small bay leaf

1/2 teaspoon dried thyme leaves

2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

1/3 cup full-bodied dry, red wine

3/4 cup chicken broth

1 1/2 teaspoons cornstarch mixed with 2 teaspoons cold water

Salt and pepper to taste

4 (4 to 5-ounce) boneless, skinless chicken breasts

Rinse, dry, hull and slice berries.

In a small saucepan over medium high heat, heat oil. When oil is hot, add shallots, garlic, bay leaf and thyme. Cook, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned, about 2 to 3 minutes. Add 3/4 cup sliced strawberries and cook an additional minute. Add balsamic vinegar. Boil mixture 1 minute. Add red wine, reduce heat to medium and simmer until liquid reaches to just below vegetables, about 5 to 8 minutes. Add broth and simmer 5 minutes. Stir. Bring liquid to a boil. Whisk in cornstarch mixture and boil 30 seconds, whisking constantly. Remove from heat. Strain sauce into another small saucepan. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Set aside.

Grill chicken breasts over medium-high heat on grill or in grill pan on stove top. Cook until browned, about 6 to 8 minutes. Turn breasts over and cook until done, about 2 to 5 minutes. Transfer to warmed platter.

To serve, gently reheat sauce. Place breasts on individual plates. Scatter remaining strawberries over and around breasts. Spoon sauce over breasts. Serve with rice, potatoes or pasta and vegetables of your choice. Makes 4 servings.

EASY STRAWBERRY VINAIGRETTE

1 (1-pound) package fresh strawberries

2 1/2 tablespoons rice vinegar

2 1/2 tablespoons lemon juice

1 small clove garlic, minced

1 1/2 tablespoons chopped fresh chives 

1 1/2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil

1 1/2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon seasoned pepper

Rinse, drain and hull strawberries. Puree in blender or food processor. Stir in all remaining ingredients. Store in a covered jar in refrigerator. Serve over field greens or spinach salad. Makes 2 cups.

STRAWBERRY RISOTTO

2 cups milk

1 (14-ounce) can unsweetened coconut milk

1/2 cup sugar

1 vanilla bean, halved lengthwise 

2 strips lemon peel

2 tablespoons butter

2/3 cup arborio rice

2 tablespoons strawberry eau de vie OR Kirschwasser (cherry brandy) OR white wine

1 1/4 cups sliced fresh strawberries

1/2 cup lightly toasted sweetened, flaked coconut (optional, see Note)

1/4 cup lightly toasted sliced almonds (optional)

Combine milk, coconut milk, sugar, vanilla bean and lemon peel in a medium saucepan. Heat to simmering. Reduce heat and keep warm.

Melt butter in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add rice; stir to coat. Reduce heat to a simmer. Remove vanilla bean and lemon peel from milk mixture. Add 1/2 cup hot milk mixture to rice mixture; cook, stirring, until milk is absorbed. Repeat, using all of milk mixture, until rice is tender but firm to bite, about 35 minutes total. Remove from heat. Stir in eau-de-vie and 1 cup strawberries. Spoon into shallow bowls. Garnish with remaining 1/4 cup strawberries, coconut and almonds. Makes 6 servings.

NOTE: To toast coconut, heat oven to 400 degrees. Place coconut on a baking sheet. Toast until lightly browned, about 4 minutes.

Adapted from ``Taste,'' by David Rosengarten.

CALYPSO STRAWBERRY-MANGO SALSA

2 cups (about 12 ounces) stemmed and chopped fresh strawberries

1 large mango, peeled, seeded and chopped

1/4 cup sliced green onions with tops

2 tablespoons fresh lime juice

1 tablespoon chopped fresh cilantro

1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper

1/4 teaspoon ground cumin

Salt to taste

In a bowl, toss all ingredients except salt to blend thoroughly. Season with salt. Serve immediately or cover and refrigerate up to 1 day. Serve with corn chips, grilled or broiled chicken or mild, white fish. Makes about 3 cups salsa.

When cooking

When it comes to buying and cooking with berries, use these equivalents as an approximate guide.

--1 (1-pound) container of strawberries equals 3 to 3 1/4 rounded cups cups whole berries; 18 medium strawberries; 3 rounded cups sliced berries; OR 1 3/4 cups pureed berries.

--1 cup sliced strawberries equals 6 to 7 medium berries.

Handle with care

Strawberries are very perishable and should be chilled as soon as possible after buying.

Refrigerate berries in the original package (you may want to place a paper towel in the bottom) or spread them out on paper towels on a baking sheet if you have room. Make sure the berries are not wet.

Don't rinse the berries until you're ready to use them, as they break down quickly when they come in contact with water. Rinse berries with caps on under cool water, then remove caps. Although berries can be kept two to five days in the fridge, they are best used as soon as purchased.

Good for you

Strawberries pack lots of nutritional punch. A serving of eight medium berries contains about 50 calories and provides 96 milligrams of vitamin C (160 percent of the Recommended Daily Value) - more than a medium orange, which contains about 60 milligrams. Strawberries are considered an excellent source of folate as well as a good source of fiber, and they contain no fat and no cholesterol.

CAPTION(S):

6 photos, 3 boxes

Photo:

(1 -- cover -- color) Berried Alive!

Bring vitality to all sorts of recipes with a surprising ingredient

Bob Fila/Chicago Tribune

(2 -- color) no captionn (Strawberry Stuffed French-Toast)

(3 -- color) Expand strawberry horizons beyond desserts - try the fruit in a salsa with halibut.

(4 -- color) no caption (strawberries)

(5 -- color) no caption (Strawberry Muffin)

(6) Calupso Strawberry-Mango Salsa is good with chips or chicken.

Box: (1) When cooking (see text)

(2) Handle with care (see text)

(3) Good for you (see text)