NORTH HOLLYWOOD'S INEXPENSIVE THAI TRIUMPH.

Byline: Larry Lipson Daily News Restaurant Critic

It's another of those little neighborhood Thai cafes where the description ``good and cheap'' suits so well.

Ben is its name, and it's located next to a Taco Bell off the beaten track on Magnolia Boulevard in North Hollywood. Years ago, this same small facility housed a little gem of a place called Bon Appetit, which attracted foodies from all over town.

Now, a long way from London, this Ben is big in both quality and value.

Open a couple months, Ben actually will feed you a meal of sorts for as low as $2.99. And it lures budget-minded eaters with a $3.99 combination plate that draws from 13 choices, with such plates as Thai barbecued chicken paired with either chow mein or an egg roll plus rice.

The barbecued chicken here is tastily prepared with obvious cilantro seasoning. An order of a half chicken as an appetizer ($4.95) results in a heaping plate of a hacked half-bird featuring plenty of seasoned, moist white meat that provides lots to share and actually looks big enough for one person's lunch.

The same with Ben's satay ($4.99), which brings forth several wooden skewers holding large, thick, juicy ovals of seasoned chicken (or beef) with a zingy peanut-flavored sauce and a small dish of cucumber salad.

A combination plate ($4.99) one day yielded a delicious assortment of puffy shrimp tempura, crunchy fried won tons and crispy, fresh veggie-filled egg rolls.

Mee krob, the traditional rice noodle dish of Thailand, comes up sweet, sticky and more moist here than some versions. And this reliable kitchen's pad thai rice noodle plate ($3.99 to $5.50) matches the best I've had.

Its tom kar kai ($3.95 or $4.99), the spicy chicken and coconut milk soup, is as good as you'll find at any Thai spot around town.

A woman chef-owner nicknamed Ben makes one of the best beef larb dishes experienced so far this year. Her larb neau ($4.50) of minced beef with spices and raw cabbage will have larb fanciers muttering superlatives all the way home.

She does almost as well with prik king (from $3.99 to $5.95 according to the choice of the main ingredient), which is superb with pork. The green bean curry has well-defined chili heat, good textures and flavors, and is served with a nice portion of steamed white rice.

And for a whole fish treat, the small angel fish ($7.99) cooked sweet and sour style, topped with fruit, is a true delight. It allows moist flakes of flesh with the caressing sweet-and-sour sauce to balance some of the fiery scorch of the spicier items on the palate.

From vegetable mixtures to seafood creations and all the chicken, beef and pork possibilities, Ben manages to please no end. This is superior Thai food at the lowest possible cost.

One Thai food fancier said that Ben's spicy seafood combination dish ($7.99) is one of the city's real oceanfare values, especially if you like a little peppery heat with your food.

Ben, a kindly faced woman with a hairnet, pops out of her kitchen every so often to see if customers are happy with her food.

I doubt she finds few complainers.

THE FACTS

The restaurant: Ben Thai.

Where: 11688 Magnolia Blvd., North Hollywood.

When: Open for lunch, dinner and snacks from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily.

Recommended items: Combination appetizers, shrimp tempura, satay, egg rolls, half barbecued chicken, mee krob, spicy chicken coconut soup, larb neau minced beef salad, vegetable dishes (mint leaves, broccoli), pad thai, pork prik king (green bean curry).

How much: Soups and appetizer plates from $2.75 to $8, noodle and main course platters from $4 to $8, special offerings from $3 to $8, beverages $1 each. No alcohol. AE, MC, V, Discover.

Reservations: Not usually necessary, but taken. Call [phone].

Our rating: Three and One Half Stars for food; Three Stars for service; Four Stars for value.

CAPTION(S):

Photo

Photo: Owner Ben Jamjuntr, left, daughter Teecha, Aoy Patan a and Pia Futra show off the cuisine at Ben Thai.

Tom Mendoza/Daily News