NORTH BEACH MEMORIES; CALIFORNIA MEETS ITALY IN DISHES OF ROSE PISTOLA RECIPES BRING CALIFORNIA, ITALY TOGETHER.

Byline: Natalie Haughton Food Editor

If you've visited San Francisco's North Beach in the last year or two, you may have run into Rose Pistola, a restaurant that has been packing in diners since chef and restaurateur Reed Hearon opened it in 1996. Featuring North Beach-style Italian food, the cooking and menu are influenced by California and Liguria (on the Northwestern coast of Italy).

``What's evolved here is a cuisine that's simple, pristine and at the same time very sophisticated. The nature of the food we do is homestyle cooking,'' says the Texas native who came to San Francisco more than a decade ago after honing his skills in kitchens in Austin, Denver and Sante Fe.

The restaurant was named after Rose Pistola (who passed away in 1998 at the age of 90), a colorful and feisty women who owned a bar and was renowned in North Beach for her Italian cooking. Her Silician father was a fisherman, and her mother was a fantastic cook. Hearon said he loved Rose's name, her attitude, her spirit and her joyfulness. ``She personified what I love about the neighborhood: its bawdy sense of history and its wry acknowledgment that it's futile to take ourselves too seriously.''

Now it's possible to sample some of Hearon's restaurant fare with a copy of his recently released ``The Rose Pistola Cookbook,'' co-written with Peggy Knickerbocker (Broadway Books; $35). It's filled with 140 recipes - mostly of dishes served at the restaurant - that evoke the spirit of North Beach and its Italian immigrant flavors.

Among them are signature dishes, including a colorful array of antipasti. You'll see many of them displayed on oval platters at the end of the open kitchen's counter when you enter the restaurant. Featured are Marinated Olives, Shaved Artichoke With Fava Beans and Parmesan, Shaved Raw Mushrooms, Endive and Parmesan and Asparagus Carpaccio along with Skillet-Roasted Mussels, Cioppino, Roasted Fish in a Salt Crust, Stuffed Focaccia, and Goat Cheese and Roasted Pepper Pizza.

Hearon has tried to keep the recipes simple. ``We geared them to the home cook and regular folks - and they are indicative of the food we serve - which is home food, not restaurant-style food. The cooking techniques in the book are based on home-cooking traditions - nothing fancy, nothing complicated.''

The recipes rely on readily available ingredients - and when testing the recipes, the authors shopped for ingredients in local stores rather than using items from the restaurant's kitchen. There are some exceptions - and in this instance mail-order sources are included for things like beans, specialty flours, organic polenta, hand-crafted cheeses and Ligurian olive oils - if you feel inclined to go to these lengths. Otherwise, Hearon gives substitutes - or you might search out local Italian specialty stores for products he mentions.

``We went out of the way to test each recipe three times in a home kitchen,'' Hearon said during a recent stopover in Los Angeles. To test the recipes, ``Peggy (Knickerbocker) and I had dinner once a week with friends at my house.'' Hearon ad-libbed or cooked at home from written recipes.

Hearon believes in using the freshest seasonal ingredients in his creations and recommends that home cooks shop before making a dish. They should buy what's fresh, in season, local and what catches their fancy.

``Use the recipes as guides, improvising based on what you bought.''

Most of the warm, savory dishes in the book begin by infusing cold oil and cold aromatics such as onions and garlic in a cold pan over medium-high heat, allowing the ingredients to warm up in the oil. This way, garlic and onions won't burn. Once you have the aromatic oil base, the main ingredient of the dish is added.

Hearon recommends using a Ligurian oil - one that is fruity, ripe and both delicate and full of flavor - as often as possible in the book's recipes. Among his favorites are Roi Mosto, Raineri and Isnardi. He also advises saving water from cooking pasta, beans, potatoes and vegetables and refrigerating or freezing for future use in sauces and other dishes to integrate and bring the dish together.

Another frugal trick is to save rinds from Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese. Wrap them in plastic wrap and store in the refrigerator to throw into a pot of bean soup without fish - or to enhance other dishes.

He also prefers cooking with sea salt because it has a broader, more complex range of flavors than table salt. However you can substitute kosher salt.

Tempt diners with this sampling of dishes from ``The Rose Pistola Cookbook.'' You're in for some delicious eating.

MARINATED OLIVES

Serve these with drinks before lunch or dinner. Offer a little dish alongside for the pits. It is nice to include an assortment of olives,with some green Bella di Cerignola mixed in with a variety of black olives, because they look and taste so good.

1 pound assorted olives, such as Nicoise, Gaeta, San Remo and green olives, such as Bella di Cerignola OR Picholine

1/4 pound sun-dried tomatoes, thinly sliced

1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil

Grated peel of 1 lemon

1 garlic clove, bruised

1/4 cup fresh basil leaves

Drain olives and toss in a bowl with sun-dried tomatoes, olive oil, lemon peel, garlic and basil. These can be served after marinating overnight in refrigerator or stored for 2 weeks.

Bring back to room temperature before serving. Makes 8 to 12 servings.

TUNA TAPENADE 

This flavorful, versatile spread can be served on crostini or on flatbread or as a dip for raw vegetables. However you plan on using it, the flavorful spread will keep well under a float of a few tablespoons of olive oil, well covered, in the refrigerator for up to two weeks. Bring it back to room temperature before using.

3/4 cup pitted Nicoise olives

1/4 cup pitted green olives

1 garlic clove

3 tablespoons capers, drained

1 teaspoon thyme leaves

1/4 teaspoon chopped rosemary leaves

1 (6 1/2-ounce) can Italian olive-oil-packed tuna, drained

Grated peel and juice of 1 lemon

1 tablespoon Cognac

About 1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil

Pulse olives, garlic, capers and herbs together in a food processor. Then pulse in tuna until combined.

Place tuna mixture in a bowl and add lemon peel, lemon juice and Cognac. Slowly mix in olive oil, a little at a time, until tapenade has a coarse texture. It should not be smooth.

Cover and refrigerate until needed. Serve at room temperature. Makes about 1 1/2 cups.

CROSTINI OF ASPARAGUS, PROSCIUTTO AND TELEME

In this antipasto the asparagus is grilled, taking on a slightly bitter, smoky flavor.

If you don't have a grill lighted and ready, you can use a stovetop grill pan or a very hot oven. Make this to nibble on while you fix the rest of the meal. It only takes 10 minutes from start to finish.

12 thick asparagus spears, trimmed to about 5 inches long OR 20 pencil asparagus spears

1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil

Kosher OR sea salt and freshly cracked black pepper

4 long slices country-style bread, same length as asparagus

1/4 pound ripe teleme OR crescenza cheese

4 thin slices prosciutto

Prepare a medium-hot fire in a grill, preheat stovetop grill pan or preheat oven to 550 degrees F (or to highest setting).

Toss asparagus with oil, then season to taste with salt and pepper. Place asparagus on grill rack, in grill pan or on a sheet pan in oven and cook, turning frequently, until nicely browned, about 5 minutes.

Meanwhile, toast bread on grill rack or in grill pan or oven, turning once, until golden on both sides.l

To serve, spread each piece of toast with a thick layer of cheese. Lay prosciutto on top and arrange grilled asparagus over it. Makes 4 servings.

MUSSEL, BROCCOLI AND POTATO SALAD

This unusual combination of flavors and textures is one of the most deeply satisfying, warming combinations. This dish is served as an antipasto or as a main course at Rose Pistola.

Most Americans are in the habit of barely blanching broccoli in boiling water to cook it, but by slowly braising the broccoli its flavors mellow and soften and gently combine with the potatoes and mussels.

3/4 pound Yellow Finn potatoes, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch slices

1 large head broccoli, preferably romanesco OR purple Venetian, cut into florets (reserve stalks for another use)

1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

Water

3 anchovy fillets, chopped OR 1 tablespoon anchovy paste 

2 tablespoons red wine vinegar

1 garlic clove, crushed

Pinch crushed red pepper flakes

3/4 pound mussels, scrubbed and beards removed

1/4 cup dry Italian white wine

Small handful flat-leaf parsley leaves

In a heavy flameproof casserole with a tight-fitting lid, combine potatoes, broccoli, 2 tablespoons olive oil and 3 tablespoons water. Cover and cook over medium-low heat, without stirring, until potatoes are tender, about 25 minutes. Drain and toss in a salad bowl with remaining 1/4 cup olive oil, anchovies, vinegar, garlic and crushed red pepper.

Meanwhile, put mussels and white wine in a large saute pan with a tight-fitting lid, cover and steam mussels until open over high heat 2 to 3 minutes. Discard any that do not open.

Add mussels and 1/4 cup steaming liquid to potato and broccoli mixture. Toss, season to taste and toss again. Serve warm or at room temperature, garnished with parsley. Serve mussels in shells or remove them. Makes 4 first-course servings or 2 main-dish servings.

SWORDFISH BROCHETTES WITH SALSA VERDE

When days are mild, grill these brochettes over a charcoal fire. In the winter, you can cook them on a stovetop grill pan, although you'll miss the flavor from the grill.

Firm fish, such as sea bass, mackerel, salmon, mahi mahi or halibut can be substituted. If you do not have rosemary stems for skewering the fish, you will need to soak wooden skewers in water for about 30 minutes before skewering so they won't burn on the grill

SALSA VERDE:

1 cup loosely packed flat-leaf parsley leaves

1 tablespoon capers, rinsed and drained

1 tablespoon red wine vinegar

1 garlic clove

2 anchovy fillets

1 tablespoon dried bread crumbs

1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil

BROCHETTES:

1/4 pound swordfish steak

1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil

Kosher OR sea salt and freshly cracked black pepper

8 sprigs rosemary (6 inches long) OR 8 wooden skewers, soaked in water 30 minutes

For Salsa Verde, combine all salsa ingredients in a blender or food processor and process until smooth. Set aside.

For Brochettes, prepare a fire in a charcoal grill or heat an oiled stovtop grill pan over medium-high heat. Cut fish into bite-size pieces, about 1x1-inch. Place fish in a bowl, add olive oil and salt and pepper to taste and toss to coat. Thread 1 or 2 pieces of fish onto rosemary or wooden skewers.

Place brochettes on oiled grill rack 6 to 8 inches above hot coals and cook, turning to brown on all sides, until nearly opaque throughout, about 1 minute per side. Or, cook brochettes on stovetop grill pan about 1 to 3 minutes on each side.

Serve at once on individual plates with Salsa Verde spooned over top. Makes 4 appetizer servings.

NOTE: Double salsa recipe and triple brochettes recipe and thread more fish pieces on skewers if planning to serve 3 to 4 as a main dish.

BRAISED SEA BASS WITH WILD MUSHROOMS

A variety of mushrooms would work well in this dish, such as chanterelles, crimini or morels. If you cannot find these mushrooms in your local market, try the dish with portobellos (with the black gills trimmed off) or button mushrooms. Any firm mild fish, such as halibut, that will not overpower the flavor of the mushrooms can be substituted for the sea bass.

1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil

1 garlic clove, bruised

1 sprig rosemary (about 6 inches long)

1 pound mushrooms, such as chanterelle, porcini, morel, crimini, portobello OR button, cleaned (black gills trimmed off, if using portobellos)

1 cup dry Italian white wine

4 (6-ounce) sea bass fillets

Kosher OR sea salt

In a flameproof baking dish or ovenproof skillet just large enough to hold fish, warm 3 tablespoons olive oil over medium-high heat. Add garlic, rosemary and mushrooms and cook until mushrooms start to brown, about 10 minutes. Add white wine and bring to a simmer.

Tuck fish fillets under mushrooms and season with salt.

Bake in preheated 500-degree oven about 10 minutes or until just cooked through.

Serve with a drizzle of remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil. Makes 4 servings.

SHAVED ARTICHOKES WITH FAVA BEANS AND PARMESAN

Here is one of the most irresistible antipasti served at Rose Pistola. Artichokes are very versatile and when thinly shaved and served raw, they are delicious. Their crunchy, slightly bitter flavor stimulates the appetite and palate.

Water

1 lemon, halved, plus a few drops additional lemon juice

16 baby artichokes

1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil

1/2 cup fava beans

Kosher OR sea salt and freshly cracked black pepper

1/4-pound wedge Parmigiano-Reggiano

Fill a large bowl with water and squeeze in juice from lemon, then toss in squeezed halves. Peel off and discard outer leaves from each artichoke until you reach part that is yellowish-green. Trim off top, peel off tough outer layer at bottom and cut artichoke in half lengthwise. Remove small thistle if it has started to form in middle. As each artichoke is trimmed, place in lemon water.

When all artichokes are prepared, pour olive oil in a serving bowl. Drain artichokes and lay halves, cut-side down, on a cutting board, and, using a sharp stainless steel knife, slice into lengthwise slices as thin as possible. Alternately, you can shave them with a mandoline, being very careful of your fingertips. Put slices in bowl with olive oil as you finish them, tossing to coat to prevent discoloration.

Add fava beans, toss well and season with salt and pepper and a few drops lemon juice. Shave shards of cheese over top with a vegetable peeler and serve. Makes 4 servings.

SKILLET-ROASTED MUSSELS

Mussels appear in cameo roles in cioppinos, pastas and sandwiches, but at Rose Pistola, they star, pure and simple, on a searing-hot plancha or iron skillet. This signature dish is one of the simplest, most satisfying dishes and it's very easy to prepare at home. The mussels' own juices provide the lovely smoky flavor.

Today, much of the mussel crop is aquacultivated in Washington State or along the East Coast. These cleaned and debearded mussels generally can be purchased in little net bags. There are some great planchas available in restaurant supply stores and gourmet stores. They come with small wooden boards upon which rest the hot skillet at the table and make for a great, straightforward presentation. You can always use a cast-iron skillet.

A chilled bottle of Barbera from California or Italy is just the thing to go with mussels.

1 pound mussels, scrubbed and beards removed

Kosher OR sea salt and freshly cracked black pepper

4 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

Heat plancha or cast-iron skillet over high heat (or over a hot wood fire) until extremely hot; when a bead of water dances across surface, it is ready.

Spread mussels in one layer in pan: The heat will cause mussels to open. Their juices will first pool and then burn on surface of pan, at which point they are ready to serve, 4 to 5 minutes cooking time. Discard any mussels that do not open.

Season mussels generously with salt and pepper and serve from pan at table, with melted butter on side. Makes 2 servings.

BRAISED CHICKEN WITH TURNIPS, POTATOES AND CARROTS

This is one of those dishes that evolved as a result of a trip to the market when I was very hungry and in the mood to cook something easy and all in one pot. It was the dead of winter and the produce section was not terribly inspiring, but there were beautiful baby turnips with their greens, potatoes, kale and dark orange carrots. While this recipe should be enough for four, it was so good that two of us ate it all up that night. For the cooking wine, in the spirit of frugal North Beach cooks, you can use half a bottle of leftover wine - red or white, whatever you have.

2 ounces pancetta, cut into 1/4x1-inch strips

1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil

1 garlic clove, bruised

1 sprig rosemary (about 6 inches long)

1 bunch kale, trimmed and coarsely chopped

1 bunch baby turnips, greens removed and chopped and turnips halved

2 large carrots, peeled and cut into chunks

4 Yellow Finn potatoes, peeled and quartered

Kosher OR sea salt

1 large chicken (3 to 4 pounds), quartered

Freshly cracked black pepper

2 cups (1/2 bottle) dry red OR white wine

In a large heavy casserole, cook pancetta in olive oil over medium-high heat until it renders its fat. Add garlic and rosemary and cook until fragrant. Add kale, turnips, turnip greens, carrots and potatoes. Season with salt and saute 5 minutes.

Generously season chicken with salt and pepper. Pour wine over vegetables and reduce by 1/3. Put chicken legs and thigh quarters on top of vegetables, reduce heat to low, tightly cover and cook 5 minutes. Add chicken breasts, cover and continue to cook until chicken is tender and juices run clear, about 35 minutes more.

Pour broth off vegetables and retain. Skim off any fat. Season to taste. With a slotted spoon, arrange vegetables on a serving platter and place chicken on top. Spoon broth (without fat) over all. Makes 2 to 4 servings.

CAPTION(S):

4 photos

Photo: (1 -- 3 -- color) For a taste of Rose Pistola, try Swordfish Brochettes With Salsa Verde, top right. Crostini of Asparagus, Prosciutto and Teleme, top left, can be assembled in a jiffy. Serve Mussel, Broccoli and Potato Salad, above, as an antipasto or a main course.

John Lazar/Staff Photographer

(4) Reed Hearon has been packing in diners at Rose Pistola in San Francisco's North Beach since 1996.

John Lazar/Staff Photographer