NO-FRILLS SPORTS BAR OFFERS SPICY BARBECUE.Byline: Larry Lipson Daily News Restaurant Critic The barbecue isn't a whole lot different at the new Mesquite Ranch in Canoga Park from Dakota's in Simi Valley Simi Valley (sē`mē, sĭm`ē), city (1990 pop. 100,217), Ventura co., SW Calif. in an oil, fruit, and farm region; laid out 1887, inc. 1969. . Even the prices are similar. But the trappings are worlds apart, and the portions overall may be more realistic - in plainer terms, not so huge. In the former British Bits 'n' Bobs building, obviously a made-over onetime fast-food facility, Mesquite Ranch is a friendly, no-frills sports bar replete with all those neon beer signs and paper pennants. There's a dining area with a few booths and tables surrounded by garden chairs. A television viewing room has those step-up small round tables with stools for sports fans who are interested in tap beers - they have Pete's Wicked, Sierra Nevada Sierra Nevada, mountain range, Spain Sierra Nevada (syā`rä nāvä`thä), chief mountain range of S Spain, in Granada prov., running from east to west for c.60 mi (100 km), parallel to the Mediterranean Sea. , Bass, Newcastle, Rolling Rock Rolling Rock is a brand of pale lager beer. Although founded as a local beer in Western Pennsylvania, it was marketed aggressively and eventually became a national product. The brand was sold to Anheuser-Busch of St. , Foster's and several major domestics - and munchie things such as spicy chicken wings Chicken Wings can refer to:
These appetizer goodies are actually done pretty well here. Best of them is a trio of picks: the half-dozen crunchy jalapeno poppers poppers Drug slang A regional street term for amyl nitrate or isobutyl nitrite ($3.95) served piping hot in both temperature and chile pepper heat, an unusual quesadilla que·sa·dil·la n. A flour tortilla folded in half around a savory filling, as of cheese or beans, then fried or toasted. [American Spanish, from Spanish, diminutive of quesada, stuffed with sliced tri-tip and cheddar ($4.95) and a satisfying bowl of chili ($4.95). And there's a welcome touch of whimsy whim·sy also whim·sey n. pl. whim·sies also whim·seys 1. An odd or fanciful idea; a whim. 2. A quaint or fanciful quality: stories full of whimsy. at this down-to-earth eatery. The menu lists a Chinese chicken salad Chinese chicken salad, as its name suggests, is a salad with chicken, popular in the United States. The Asian influence comes from common Asian-themed ingredients. Though many variations exist, common features of most salads described as "Chinese chicken" contain lettuce, chicken, for $250, priced to discourage anyone from ordering it because, as the explanation goes, ``Let's be honest, it just doesn't fit with BBQ BBQ barbecue .'' Agreed. The rest of the menu is pretty basic. There's chicken, beef ribs, baby backs, spare ribs and hot links in addition to tri-tip. The ribs are meaty and handled well. And in the middle of the dining room stands a convenient sauce bar where diners can spoon one or more of a handful of sauces into little plastic cups - a couple of regular spicy barbecue sauces, one with a touch more sweetness, the other with a touch more cumin cumin or cummin (both: kŭm`ĭn), low annual herb (Cuminum cyminum) of the family Umbelliferae (parsley family), long cultivated in the Old World for the aromatic seedlike fruits. ; a Cajun-spiced sauce and a milder one. The fun thing to do, of course, is to try all of them at one time, dipping meat or fries into each separately and deciding which one you like best. Full dinners come with a good garlic toast and a couple of sides, one being the house dinner salad, which is a surprising mix of lettuces, carrots, mushrooms, bell peppers, tomatoes, onions and cucumbers. About the only item considered less than recommendable here is the hot links, which are merely average or, in critical terms, not too hot. Also the promised ``mean beans'' (promised on the menu as ``very spicy'') are not. That's both mean and spicy. And the hoped for ``huge slice of apple pie'' for a reasonable $2, seemingly the signature dessert, wasn't available. But Mesquite does a good job elsewhere - for instance, with its potato salad. And with its garlic bread. In fact, Toluca Lake's famous home of garlic toast, the Smoke House, better look out. Mesquite's version, being a real triumph, is right on its tail. THE FACTS The restaurant: Mesquite Ranch Bar-B-Que. Where: 8215 De Soto Ave., Canoga Park. When: Open for lunch, dinner and snacks from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. daily. Recommended items: Jalapeno poppers, Sheila's chili, tri-tip quesadilla, baby back ribs, beef ribs, chicken dinner, spareribs spare·ribs pl.n. Pork ribs with most of the meat trimmed off. [Alteration of obsolete ribspare, from Low German ribbesper, pickled pork ribs roasted on a spit , tap beers. How much: Starters from $1.75 to $5, salads and sandwiches $6 and $7, entrees from $8 to $14, dessert $2. Beer and wine. All major credit cards. Wine list: No actual list. Four wines by the glass ($4) or bottle ($13) available. They are a '96 chardonnay, merlot and cabernet sauvignon, both '94 and all three Meridian, and a '96 Beringer white zinfandel. As many as 14 draft beers and around 34 bottled or canned. Reservations: Helpful. Call (818) 998-2767. Our rating: Three Stars for food; Three Stars for service; One Star for wine. CAPTION(S): Photo Photo: Mesquite Ranch Bar-B-Que owner Steven Lane, center, is flanked by chefs Marcus Molina, left, and Pat Wall as they show off their green salad, chicken dinner, Big Bones beef ribs and tri-tip sandwich. David Sprague/Daily News |
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