NO SIN TO LOVE ZIN.Byline: Larry Lipson Restaurant Critic With some 40 zinfandels promised in its finalized wine inventory and a fabulous location on the shore of scenic Westlake, the just opened Zin Bistro Americana brings local lakeside dining to new heights. As the fourth restaurant operated by the Fins (Calabasas and Westlake) and Moz Buddha Lounge (Agoura Hills) people, Zin has an ambitious menu featuring several retro dishes, and manages to present most everything with style and grace. How often do you see grenadine grenadine: see pomegranate. of beef on a menu these days? This onetime favorite returns impressively, though a trifle pricey ($26.95), as tender filet mignon medallions in a demi-glace, boosted with garlic and scallions and plated with a decorative spray of crunchy, julienned root vegetables. And there are plenty more beef dishes here to go with those fruity red zinfandel wines, in addition to a couple of expected steak (New York $29.95, ribeye $32.95) offerings. One is a satisfying steak and ale Steak and Ale is a semi-casual dining American restaurant chain founded by Norman E. Brinker with over 60 locations in 19 states in the United States. It is part of the Metromedia Restaurant Group, which also leases franchises for Bennigan's, Bonanza, and Ponderosa restaurants. pot pie ($21.95) flavored with Bass ale, chock full of Angus beef chunks. Another is a beef short ribs dish ($26.95) that materializes as tender, boneless pieces of zinfandel-soaked, steaklike beef nestled in comforting, porridge-soft polenta po·len·ta n. A thick mush made of cornmeal boiled in water or stock. [Italian, from Latin, crushed grain, barley meal.] Noun 1. . There's also the juicy house burger ($14.95), of freshly ground Angus, attractively presented with a mound of softish fries, quite tasty but sent out medium one day rather than the requested medium-rare. One of the better meat entrees here, listed as a pork porterhouse ($24.95), arrives as a large, juicy chop, thick and firm, flavored with rosemary and cranberry, accompanied by mashed sweet potatoes and definitely zinfandel-friendly. Lobster fanciers will find their No. 1 seafood pick on a chilled seafood platter ($45.95 or $72.95), in a chowder ($9.95) and in a rather unusual main course, as chicken-fried lobster ($26.95). The fried lobster comes forth slightly crispy and surprisingly endearing, really a comfort dish, gratifyingly grat·i·fy tr.v. grat·i·fied, grat·i·fy·ing, grat·i·fies 1. To please or satisfy: His achievement gratified his father. See Synonyms at please. 2. sauced in a thyme-flavored beurre blanc with good creamy mashers and silky Swiss chard Swiss chard: see beet. . Served with a respectable offering of herb-roasted, free-range chicken ($24.95) are the same chard chard: see artichoke; beet. chard or Swiss chard Edible-leaf beet (Beta vulgaris, variety cicla), a variety of beet in which the tender leaves and leafstalks have become greatly developed. and mashed potato accompaniments. Nonstringy spears of bright green asparagus are the companions to a perfectly grilled rendition of Atlantic salmon ($26.95) lightly coated with Bearnaise sauce, sprinkled with paprika paprika: see pepper. . Beginning options can be nicely executed: peppery pep·per·y adj. 1. Of, containing, or resembling pepper; sharp or pungent in flavor. 2. Vigorously sharp-tempered: a peppery sales clerk. 3. tuna tartare
Examples are
n. pl. cho·ri·zos A very spicy pork sausage seasoned especially with garlic. [Spanish.] Noun 1. dip ($8.95) with tomatillos and tortilla wedges; lovely, sweet Maui onion rings ($7.95) fashioned in a superior batter; and a welcome anchovy-enhanced version of Caesar salad ($9.95). The Caesar and tartare are prepared tableside ta·ble·side n. The area beside or around a table, especially in a restaurant. adv. & adj. Made or prepared alongside a table: lamb that was carved tableside; a tableside recitation of the menu. in the dining room, not on the patio. Endings include some interesting-sounding crepe crepe (krāp), thin fabric of crinkled texture, woven originally in silk but now available in all major fibers. There are two kinds of crepe. recipes that weren't available yet during our review visits. But who needs a fancy dessert here when you can sip a coffee and gaze at the moonlit water, then shut your eyes briefly and pretend for a minute that you're actually sitting alongside one of those larger Italian lakes -- Como, Garda or Lugano? Ciao, bella. Larry Lipson, (818) 713-3668 larry.lipson(at)dailynews.com ZIN BISTRO AMERICANA Food: Three and one half stars - Service: Three stars - Wine: Three stars Where: 32131 Lindero Canyon Road, Westlake Village. Phone: (818) 865-0095. Meals/hours: Open for lunch from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. daily (brunch on Sunday); for dinner from 5 to 10 p.m. nightly, to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Food type: American. Cost: Starters from $8 to $19, entrees from $15 to $35, desserts $7 each. Credit cards: All major except Discover. Patio dining: Yes, with scenic lakeside view. Parking/valet: Both valet and free lot parking. Full bar: Yes. Wine/corkage: Interesting starter selection of wines priced from $20 to $240, featuring 17 half-bottle offerings. No obvious bargains. Majority of full-size bottles priced above $40. Of 20 pinot noirs listed, lowest price is $44. Only 11 zins currently on list ($29 to $120). Not a white zinfandel in sight. 18 wines by the glass ($6.50 to $25 each). Corkage: $20 (waived with each bottle purchased). Music/entertainment:. No live performances. Takeout/delivery: Yes on takeout, no on delivery. Reservations: Heartily suggested. CAPTION(S): photo Photo: Chef Robert Leyva presents Zin Bistro Americana's iceberg lettuce shrimp salad. Joe Binoya/Special to the Daily News |
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