NO 'I' IN GOOD FOOD.Byline: Larry Lipson Restaurant Critic A new restaurant in Northridge is actually one of a vanishing breed. Emle's, as it's called - noticeably without the "i" that would make it Emile's - is an independent, no-frills, little cafe housed in a former Sharky's fast food space, that cooks full-service breakfasts, lunches, dinners and snacks from 7 a.m. every day. And its menu seems exceptionally large by today's standards, offering everything from a 99-cent English muffin or bagel in the morning to a $16 steak and shrimp dinner at night. Emle's moved south from Carmel where it had gained fame for its breakfasts, especially its french toast. Located within walking distance of the California State University Enrollment  Northridge (CSUN CSUN California State University Northridge ) campus, it packs its little dining room full of noisy eaters at peak meal hours during the day and during its 4-to-6 p.m. early-bird period when it serves 21 two-course dinners, all priced at $9.99. Keep in mind Emle's has no intention of being a highfalutin high·fa·lu·tin or hi·fa·lu·tin also high·fa·lu·ting adj. Informal Pompous or pretentious: "highfalutin reasons for denying direct federal assistance to the unemployed" dining spot. It wants a clientele that encompasses both students and pensioners. So at dinnertime don't expect the finest versions possible on such items as crab cakes ($6.79 as an appetizer, $12.99 as an entree), which have a tad too much breading for my taste, or fried shrimp ($12.99) and fried oysters ($10.99), the latter two a sort of coffee-shop presentation, though with a decent crunchy batter coating and thankfully no oily residue. And lobster ravioli ($6.99 or $13.99) is a questionable recommendation. Each pasta envelope might possess an intriguing stuffing and rich saucing, but the hard, brittle dough needs to be much softer and fluffier to get my vote. But there's plenty of good stuff here. Get ready to applaud the house lamb shank shank (shangk) 1. leg (1). 2. crus ( 2). shank n. The part of the human leg between the knee and ankle. plate ($13.99), a homey, substantial, satisfying rendition flavored with a merlot wine reduction. Here's a dish that resembles many uptown comparables at twice the price. And don't hesitate to order my favorite My Favorite is an independent synthpop band from Long Island, New York. They released two CDs: Love at Absolute Zero and Happiest Days of Our Lives. My Favorite broke up on September 14, 2005, when singer Andrea Vaughn left the band. main course here, the calamari steak ($7.49 at lunch, $10.99 at dinner). Swathed in a lilting lemonbutter-caper sauce, crusted lightly in a bread-crumb mixture, it is utterly delightful. Emle's may not top its tables with fancy linen and is not licensed to serve wine, but that doesn't stop it from presenting dinner guests with fresh bread and a piquant, premises-made, complimentary dipping sauce at the onset of an evening meal. And its clam chowder chowder, stew of fish or shellfish with potatoes, onions, and pork (usually salt pork), thickened with crumbled hard bread. The name chowder seems to have originated from the French word chaudière is a respectable option on a Friday night for those who prefer soup over the neatly presented, refreshing house salad with a choice of several dressings. However, lamb soup on another occasion seems watery and relatively flavorless. Pork loin loin (loin) the part of the back between the thorax and pelvis. loin n. The part of the body on either side of the spinal column between the ribs and the pelvis. fanciers though, will thoroughly enjoy the busy Emle kitchen's brandy-brushed recipe ($7.99 at lunch, $10.99 at dinner), thick, firm and moist, served on an oval white plate with well-executed mashed potatoes and an accompaniment of fresh cauliflower cauliflower (kô`lĭflou'ər, käl`ĭ–), variety of cabbage, with an edible head of condensed flowers and flower stems. Broccoli is the horticultural variety (botrytis); both were cultivated in Roman times. and broccoli florets. A number of enjoyable endings, most of which are freshly baked in Emle's productive kitchen, include warm apple pie, a frothy froth·y adj. froth·i·er, froth·i·est 1. Made of, covered with, or resembling froth; foamy. 2. Playfully frivolous in character or content: a frothy French farce. tiramisu tir·a·mi·su n. A dessert of cake infused with a liquid such as coffee or rum, layered with a rich cheese filling, and topped with grated chocolate. and a creamy, tart key lime pie Key lime pie is a dessert made of key lime juice, egg yolks, and sweetened condensed milk in a pie crust. The pie is topped with meringue, then baked until the meringue is a golden brown.[1] Some key lime pies use other types of whipped toppings or none at all. . Emle's, a brave, ambitious undertaking in this chain-conscious age, deserves neighborhood support. I'm sure its college student and teacher regulars give it an A for effort. Larry Lipson, (818) 713-3668 larry.lipson@dailynews.com EMLE'S Food: Three stars - Service: Three stars - Value: Three stars Where: 9250 Reseda Blvd., Northridge. Phone: (818) 772-2203. Meals/hours: Open for breakfast from 7 a.m. to 4 p.m., lunch from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. and dinner from 4 to 9 p.m. daily. Food type: American. Cost: Starters from $2 to $7, pastas and entrees from from $11 to $16, desserts $4 and $5 each. Credit cards: All major. Patio dining: Yes, weather permitting. Parking/valet: Free in lot. Full bar: No alcohol. Music/entertainment: None. Takeout/delivery: Yes on takeout, no on delivery. Reservations: Taken for parties of six or more, otherwise first come, first served. CAPTION(S): photo Photo: Among popular offerings from Emle 3/8s owners Sanaa and Nassir Elmachtoub is their Famous French Toast. Among Joel P. Lugavere/Special to the Daily News |
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