NIFTY NOUVEAU CHINESE AT MA'S.

Byline: Larry Lipson Daily News Restaurant Critic

With Mother's Day upon us, a review of the new Ma's Cafe might seem appropriate.

But Ma's has nothing to do with things matriarchal. It represents the surname of restaurateur Erwin Ma.

Ma owns four other restaurants, two called Hong Kong, plus Golden China Inn and Ghengis Khan. At Ma's, he has veered away from straight Chinese in a bright, casual cafe in the former Numero Uno on Reseda Boulevard in Northridge.

He describes it as a ``new concept of international cuisine.'' What it actually is, is a great place to graze on lots of small- and medium-size dishes, all under $6, most under $5, with items as low as 50 cents.

The menu jumps around the map, mostly in Asia.

You can enjoy a bowl-size portion of an amenable hot and sour soup - not too vinegary and not too spicy - it's designated a cup on the menu, and spend only $1. There are at least three other soup choices at the same price.

Other starters costing a pittance and worth trying include the refreshing Vietnamese spring rolls (two for $2) and the taro rice cakes (three for $2.50).

The former arrive well-stuffed, tightly wrapped in thin, fresh-tasting rice-flour crepes bursting with the flavor of fresh minty basil leaves.

Inside there's crunchy lettuce, herbs and a choice of diced chicken, pork or shrimp. With the rolls you receive tart, nuoc cham dipping sauce dotted with tiny flakes of red chili.

It's a great Asian tidbit for summer eating.

The more traditional egg rolls ($1.50 or $2 for two) are also nicely done here, these being crunchy, too, but on the outside, and thankfully not oily.

Ma's taro rice cakes will remind you of potato pancakes, here delivered as gratifying square-shaped goodies.

Tofu fanciers will like the simple bean curd salad ($1.50), a stack of cubed, somewhat creamy but fairly firm-textured bean curd pieces topped with small dollops of a savory brown sauce and flecked with chives.

Just about everything here is delicious, although chicken sate (three sticks for $2.50) done in the Thai manner was a trifle dry one day.

But anyone who likes spicy stuff should order a plate of fiery Korean kimchee (pickled cabbage) to use as an all-purpose condiment here.

Nine different noodle soups (with a choice of four different noodles) are offered. Recommended is the shredded pork with Szechwan vegetables ($3.75) and mi-fun (thin rice noodles), a meal in itself.

Ma's - catering to college students, nearby office workers and neighborhood families - even brings American-style sandwiches and plates to the table.

And there are several Chinese rice porridge and stir-fry dishes. Americans usually enjoy the seafood porridge mixture ($4.55).

To give you an idea of how inexpensive its fare is, there's actually a New York black pepper steak plate presented with good potatoes and a nicely executed vegetable (usually broccoli or cauliflower) for only $5.95.

And the grilled mussels (five per order, $4.95) are certainly a treat, with the meat scooped out of the shell and then put back with a mayonnaise and chunky avocado mixture and topped with a soupcon of smelt roe.

Operating without its beer and wine license, Ma's produces a number of refreshing juices and fruit mixtures. Try the cantaloupe and honey drink ($2). Or be adventurous and order a Tawainese-style cooling slush with a variety of flavors to choose from and optional sweetened condensed milk ($1.75 or $2).

Today's young moms would probably love this place. My ma never cooked or ate like this.

THE FACTS

The restaurant: Ma's Cafe.

Where: 9306 Reseda Blvd., Northridge.

When: [phone].

Recommended items: Vegetable egg roll, taro rice cake, Vietnamese rolls (chicken, pork, shrimp), hot and sour soup, shredded pork with Szechwan vegetables soup with mi-fun thin rice noodles, house combo plate (chicken, beef, shrimp and surimi with rice or pasta and steamed vegetable), chop suey, grilled mussels with avocado and smelt roe, New York steak with black pepper sauce, seafood rice porridge, Taiwanese slush with fruit and sweetened condensed milk, cantaloupe honey juice.

How much: Everything under $6. Items as low as 50 cents. Beer and wine license pending. AE, MC, V, Discover.

Reservations: Helpful. Call [phone].

Our rating: Three Stars for food; Three Stars for service; Four Stars for value.

CAPTION(S):

Photo

Photo: At Ma's Cafe in Northridge, waitress Carol Mu displa ys a teriyaki chicken sandwich, owner Erwin Ma holds a New York steak with black pepper sauce, and manager Chen Chiveh holds mussels with avocado.

Bob Halvorsen/Daily News