NEW YORK CHEF DANCES TO A LATIN BEAT.Byline: Natalie Haughton Daily News Food Editor Chef Douglas Rodriguez's restaurant kitchen at Patria PATRIA. The country; the men of the neighborhood competent to serve on a jury; a jury. This word is nearly synonymous with pais. (.q.v.) in New York New York, state, United States New York, Middle Atlantic state of the United States. It is bordered by Vermont, Massachusetts, Connecticut, and the Atlantic Ocean (E), New Jersey and Pennsylvania (S), Lakes Erie and Ontario and the Canadian province of beats to the tune of Nuevo Latino - a contemporary cuisine that combines flavors from South and Central America Central America, narrow, southernmost region (c.202,200 sq mi/523,698 sq km) of North America, linked to South America at Colombia. It separates the Caribbean from the Pacific. and the Spanish-speaking islands of the Caribbean. His recently released cookbook, ``Nuevo Latino'' (Ten Speed Press; $27.95), explores the newest culinary trend, which earned Rodriguez the Rising Star Chef of the Year Award from the James Beard Foundation The James Beard Foundation is a New York-based national professional non-profit organization named in honor of James Beard that serves to promote the culinary arts by honoring chefs, wine professionals, journalists, and cookbook authors at annual award ceremonies and providing last month. ``Many Latins will recognize the foods from their homeland, but will notice that they are served in nontraditional ways. I have endeavored to bring new meaning to them,'' Rodriguez writes in the book. Inspired by cuisines from more than 20 Latin American countries List of American countries Nations:
``People from a variety of Latin countries I had worked with at Yuca turned me on to other things besides Cuban food,'' Rodriguez said in a recent interview. But it was his move to Patria that put his Nuevo Latino cuisine on the culinary map. Just prior to opening the restaurant in 1994, Rodriquez took a three-month gastronomic gas·tro·nom·ic also gas·tro·nom·i·cal adj. Of or relating to gastronomy. gas  tro·nom expedition to South America and other Latin areas. ``My wife, Trish, and I ate our way through several countries, including Ecuador, Peru and the Dominican Republic, looking for Looking for In the context of general equities, this describing a buy interest in which a dealer is asked to offer stock, often involving a capital commitment. Antithesis of in touch with. inspiration,'' Rodriguez said. ``All of my Nuevo Latino dishes come from classical roots or traditional dishes in a particular country,'' he said. ``I'm not reinventing the wheel.'' Rather, Rodriguez opts to make adaptations with ingredients available here. ``For instance, in South America we had a ceviche ce·vi·che or se·vi·che n. Raw fish marinated in lime or lemon juice with olive oil and spices and served as an appetizer. [American Spanish, from Spanish cebiche, fish stew, from (raw fish marinated in citrus juice; the action of the acid in the juice ``cooks'' the fish) made with black clams. But you can't find black clams in this country, so I make a similar ceviche with steamer clams and black squid ink. ``I rely on corn, a variety of sweet bell peppers and fiery peppers as well as different beans, root vegetables and tropical and exotic fruits,'' he said. Rodriguez also uses nonsaturated oil rather than lard. ``I also might combine two dishes from two different countries or borrow elements from different countries and put them on one plate,'' added the 30-year-old chef. Most of Patria's desserts, he said, are based on milk like those in Latin America - or take advantage of tropical fruits. ``Today, the dessert chef made an elegant fruit gazpacho with seven different fruits in a nice broth - and is serving it with a scoop of ice cream made with mammee fruit,'' he added. Popular dishes on his menu dazzle and burst with excitement - and some can be found in his cookbook. They include Sugarcane Tuna with Malanga Noun 1. malanga - tropical American aroid having edible tubers that are cooked and eaten like yams or potatoes spoonflower, tannia, Xanthosoma atrovirens, Xanthosoma sagittifolium, yautia (a starchy starch·y adj. starch·i·er, starch·i·est 1. a. Containing starch. b. Stiffened with starch. 2. Of or resembling starch. 3. root vegetable with a nutty flavor) Puree pu·rée or pu·ree tr.v. pu·réed or pu·reed, pu·rée·ing or pu·ree·ing, pu·rées or pu·rees To rub through a strainer or process (food) in a blender. n. , Garlic Plantain plantain (plăn`tĭn), any plant of the genus Plantago, chiefly annual or perennial weeds of wide distribution. Many species are lawn pests and the pollen is often a hay fever irritant. P. Chips, Patria Colada, Mojito (a cocktail), Fresh Cilantro Adobo a·do·bo n. pl. a·do·bos A Philippine dish of marinated meat or fish seasoned with garlic, soy sauce, vinegar, and spices. [Spanish, from Old Spanish adobar, to stew , Dried Shrimp Salsa, the Original Plantain-Coated Mahi-mahi and much more. For dessert, try Bananas Tres Leches or the Smokeless smoke·less adj. 1. Emitting or containing little or no smoke: smokeless factory stacks. 2. Cigar. In whatever he creates or serves, ``freshness of the product is the most important consideration, followed by preparation, flavor and then presentation and execution of the dish,'' said Rodriguez. His presentations are splashy splash·y adj. splash·i·er, splash·i·est 1. Making or likely to make splashes. 2. Covered with splashes of color. 3. Showy; ostentatious. See Synonyms at showy. , dramatic and fun - served on large, colorful glass plates with garnishes such as fried plantain strips, toast triangles, cool salsas Salsas is a Portuguese parish in the district of Bragança. The population in 2001 is 424, its density is 16.5/km² and the area is 25.76 km². or squiggles of hot sauces such as chipotle chi·pot·le n. A ripe jalapeño pepper that has been dried and smoked for use in cooking. [American Spanish, from Nahuatl xipotli.] Noun 1. ketchup. ``Food has always been my passion - and it started at an early age,'' Rodriguez said. ``My hobby is eating at new places, tasting new foods and trying different ethnic cuisines. I enjoy putting together different textures and contrasts of flavors, color and heat intensities. ``As a young kid growing up on the Upper West Side of Manhattan, I spent a lot of time in the kitchen with my mother. I used to help her prepare the heavy, traditional foods of her Cuban homeland, including black beans, chicken and rice, ham croquettes and mashed potatoes stuffed with picadillo pic·a·dil·lo n. pl. pic·a·dil·los A spicy Spanish and Latin American dish made of seasoned ground meat and vegetables such as tomatoes, peppers, and onions. . She was my mentor and inspiration.'' Although Rodriguez is of Cuban descent, he has never visited Cuba. However, he was exposed to many different cuisines during family vacations (his mother worked for American Airlines) in Venezuela, Costa Rica, Mexico, Spain, Belgium, Italy and Germany. ``I always wanted to be a chef,'' noted Rodriguez. At 13, he was buying cookbooks at garage sales and experimenting with his own recipe creations in the kitchen, and at 14, when his family moved to Miami, he landed his first kitchen job as a summer apprentice at a hotel. After high school, he headed to Johnson and Wales Wales, Welsh Cymru, western peninsula and political division (principality) of Great Britain (1991 pop. 2,798,200), 8,016 sq mi (20,761 sq km), west of England; politically united with England since 1536. The capital is Cardiff. University in Providence, R.I., to study classic culinary techniques. After graduating in the mid-'80s, he landed a job as a saucier
A Saucier [sosˈje] at the Sonesta Beach Hotel in Miami. It was during stints as chef at the Wet Paint Cafe in Miami and chef/owner at Yuca that Rodriguez cooked contemporary renditions of Cuban foods that he eventually dubbed Nuevo Cubano. Although running the kitchen of Patria with its more than two dozen employees (the total restaurant has more than 60) and serving 300 dinners nightly is a challenge, Rodriguez makes time for his 7 1/2-month-old son, Leandro Tyler. ``My whole life is food, wine and entertaining, he said. Rodriguez eventually would like to return to Florida - and open another restaurant. ``New York is no place to raise a family,'' added his wife, Patricia. Here are some creations to try from ``Nuevo Latino.'' CHAMPAGNE SANGRIA san·gri·a n. A cold drink made of red or white wine mixed with brandy, sugar, fruit juice, and soda water. Also called sangaree. [Probably from Spanish sangría, This makes an excellent drink for summer entertaining. It's inspired by Spanish sangria, which is usually made with red wine. I've always liked to make my sangria somewhat unusual, mixing fruit with sparkling wine or champagne to make a white sangria. When they're in season, mangoes and peaches are ideal because their flavors combine perfectly with champagne and don't overwhelm it. Apples or pears make good alternatives, but avoid fruit with strong flavors, such as pineapple or cantaloupe cantaloupe: see gourd; melon. . (You can prepare the fruit ahead of time, but add the champagne at the last minute or you'll lose the bubbles.) 1 semi-ripe mango, peeled, pitted and sliced 2 peaches, peeled, pitted and sliced 3 limes limes plural limites (Latin; “path”) In ancient Rome, a strip of open land along which troops advanced into unfriendly territory. It came to mean a Roman military road, fortified with watchtowers and forts. , sliced 2 lemons, sliced 1 orange, sliced 1 cup seedless Seed´less a. 1. Without seed or seeds. Adj. 1. seedless - lacking seeds; "seedless grapefruit" seedy - full of seeds; "as seedy as a fig" seedless adj → green grapes 1/2 cup Cointreau 1 bottle champagne OR cava, chilled Place all sliced fruit and grapes in a large punch bowl. Pour Cointreau over fruit and toss gently. Just before serving, add chilled champagne and stir gently. Serve champagne mixture with some of fruit in large chilled wine glasses. Makes 6 cocktails. NOTE: Use any leftover fruit for a fruit salad. PATRIA COLADA This thirst-quenching cocktail is a spin on the pina colada. It's made with passion fruit juice instead of pineapple juice. The sweet-tart flavor of the passion fruit and the richness of the coconut forge a great combination of flavors. You'll love it. 1/2 cup frozen unsweetened passion fruit concentrate 2 ounces Coco Lopez 2 ounces light rum 1 ounce dark rum 1/2 cup crushed ice Shaved coconut, for garnish. Place all ingredients except shaved coconut in a blender and blend until smooth. Pour into a hurricane glass and garnish with coconut. Makes 1 cocktail. THE RUMM-BA Here's another of Rodriguez's rum creations inspired by the rumba. It's enough to make you want to shake your hips and take to the dance floor, especially after two or the three cocktails, he says. 1 ounce light rum 1/2 ounce banana liqueur liqueur (lĭkûr`), strong alcoholic beverage made of almost neutral spirits, flavored with herb mixtures, fruits, or other materials, and usually sweetened. The name derives from the Latin word to melt. Splash of Rose's Lime Juice Rose's lime juice, often known simply as "Rose's", is a brand of sweetened lime juice used in mixed drinks, most notably the Gimlet. It is made by the British company L. Rose & Co. (founded 1865), and distributed by Mott's in the United States. 1/2 ounce grenadine grenadine: see pomegranate. syrup Crushed ice 1 orange slice, for garnish 1 maraschino cherry, for garnish Place rum, banana liqueur, lime juice and grenadine in a cocktail shaker. Shake vigorously. Fill a highball glass with crushed ice and pour cocktail over ice. Garnish with orange slice and cherry. Makes 1 cocktail. CUBAN BREAD My father loves bread, and when I was growing up in Manhattan, I'd often go with him on his frequent trips to the bakery that his cousin Cachita owned. I enjoyed the wonderful aromas of freshly baked bread. There's nothing like a slice of the real thing, warm from the oven, with a cup of steaming cafe con leche. 1/3 cup solid vegetable shortening 1 teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon sugar 1 1/2 cups hot water 2 packages active dry yeast 6 cups bread flour 1/2 cup cornmeal corn·meal also corn meal n. Meal made from corn, used in a wide variety of foods. Also called Indian meal. Noun 1. In a large bowl, combine shortening, salt, sugar and hot water with electric mixer (or by hand) until shortening melts. Let mixture cool to at least 110 degrees F. Stir in yeast and let mixture proof 5 to 10 minutes. Add flour, 1 cup at a time, and slowly mix with a dough hook attachment (or by hand) until dough no longer sticks to bowl, 5 to 8 minutes. Transfer dough to a lightly oiled or buttered bowl, cover bowl with plastic wrap and let dough rise in a warm place until doubled in volume, about 1 1/2 hours. Punch down dough and turn over. Cover bowl and let dough rise 1 1/2 hours. Punch down dough and turn out onto a lightly floured work surface. Divide dough in half and shape into loaves. Sprinkle a baking sheet with cornmeal, place loaves on top and cover with plastic wrap. Let loaves rise 30 minutes. Uncover loaves and brush with warm water. Bake in preheated 400-degree oven 25 minutes. Remove baking sheet from oven and brush loaves again with warm water. Reduce oven temperature to 350 degrees F and bake about 25 minutes, until lightly browned. Remove bread from oven and turn out onto wire racks to cool. Makes 2 loaves. ROASTED CORN ANDPEPPER SALSA This summertime salsa puts fresh corn to good use. The key to this recipe is blanching
1 ear fresh corn 1 canned chipotle chile, seeded and minced 1 red bell pepper, roasted, peeled, seeded and cut into 1/2-inch dice 1 yellow bell pepper, roasted, peeled, seeded and cut into 1/2-inch dice 1 green bell pepper, roasted, peeled, seeded and cut into 1/2-inch dice 1/2 tablespoon chopped fresh oregano oregano (ərĕg`ənō), name for several herbs used for flavoring food. A plant of the family Labiatae (mint family), Origanum vulgare, leaves 1 tomato, seeded and cut into 1/2-inch dice 3/4 teaspoon sugar 1/4 cup olive oil 1 1/2 tablespoons cider vinegar Salt and pepper
Blanch blanch to become pale. corn 1 minute, then roast. Combine all ingredients in a mixing bowl. Refrigerate re·frig·er·ate tr.v. re·frig·er·at·ed, re·frig·er·at·ing, re·frig·er·ates 1. To cool or chill (a substance). 2. To preserve (food) by chilling. up to 2 days. Makes about 2 cups. SMOKED QUESO BLANCO SALSA Using cheese in a salsa may seem somewhat unusual, but this is a terrific dipping salsa for chips - especially plantain or yuca chips. You can use a different smoked cheese (such as Muenster) if the slightly salty queso blanco is unavailable. This salsa is best prepared at the last minute. 1 cucumber, rinsed 2 large tomatoes, cut into 1/4-inch dice 1 red onion, cut into 1/4-inch dice 2 tablespoons minced cilantro leaves 2 small jalapeno chiles, seeded and minced Juice of 4 limes 1/2 cup olive oil 8 ounces smoked queso blanco, cut into 1/4-inch dice Salt and pepper to taste Peel cucumber, leaving a small amount of flesh attached to skin. Finely dice peel and transfer to a mixing bowl, reserving rest of cucumber for another use. Add remaining ingredients to bowl and thoroughly combine. Refrigerate several hours before serving to allow flavors to blend. Serve same day with chips. Makes about 3 cups. GRILLED FLANK STEAK OVER MUSHROOM CEVICHE I first tried this Peruvian classic when I visited my dad at work. He's a barber, and all enthusiastic Peruvian customer insisted that we try his recipe for mushroom ceviche. (You could tell he was enthusiastic because he brought his ceviche with him!) We loved it. It was just regular field mushrooms marinated in lemon and lime juice, and this recipe builds on the simple formula. The smaller the mushrooms the better, so if you can't find button mushrooms, cut the regular-sized ones into quarters. STEAK: 1 (3-pound) flank steak 2 cups Fresh Cilantro Adobo (recipe follows) MUSHROOM CEVICHE: 2 pounds button OR tiny field mushrooms, rinsed and stems removed 1/3 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice 1/2 cup freshly squeezed lime juice 1/3 cup freshly squeezed orange juice 1/3 cup olive oil 1 small red onion, thinly sliced 1 small red bell pepper, seeded and julienned 3 cloves garlic, squeezed through a garlic press 1 tablespoon chopped cilantro leaves Salt and pepper to taste GREENS AND GARNISH: 6 ounces mixed baby greens, rinsed and patted dry 12 triangle-shaped toast pieces, for garnish Marinate mar·i·nate v. mar·i·nat·ed, mar·i·nat·ing, mar·i·nates v.tr. To soak (meat, for example) in a marinade. v.intr. To become marinated. steak in Fresh Cilantro Adobo 12 hours. Place mushrooms in a mixing bowl. Add citrus juices and olive oil and toss. Let stand at room temperature 1 hour, tossing occasionally. Add onion, bell pepper, garlic, cilantro and salt and pepper and mix well. Let stand in refrigerator to marinate mushrooms, about 2 hours. Heat grill to medium-high and grill marinated steak 7 minutes on each side for medium-rare. Slice thinly and serve over Mushroom Ceviche with mixed greens and toast triangles. Makes 6 servings. FRESH CILANTRO ADOBO We make large batches of this basic adobo at Patria. It's a good, all-purpose adobo, especially for poultry, pork or beef, which I like to marinate at least 12 hours. 1 1/2 cups fresh cilantro (leaves and stems) 3 bay leaves 2 teaspoons ground cumin cumin or cummin (both: kŭm`ĭn), low annual herb (Cuminum cyminum) of the family Umbelliferae (parsley family), long cultivated in the Old World for the aromatic seedlike fruits. 2 teaspoons dried oregano 2 teaspoon dried thyme 2 teaspoons pepper 1 tablespoon salt 1/2 cup coarsely chopped white onion 1/4 cup coarsely chopped garlic 1 cup distilled white vinegar 1/2 cup oil Place all ingredients, except oil, in a blender. Puree on high speed. Transfer mixture to a mixing bowl and whisk in oil. Makes 2 1/2 cups. CUBAN T.B.L.T. This is the classic B.L.T. (bacon, lettuce and tomato sandwich), with the addition of turkey. I call it Cuban because I make it on a sandwich press. This sandwich is a twist on the popular Cuban pressed sandwich that has ham, pork and cheese. Making this sandwich is almost an art form, and it's worth the effort! 8 slices bacon (about 8 ounces) 1 pound roasted turkey breast, cut into 32 thin slices 8 slices Cuban Bread (recipe above) 8 ounces Swiss cheese, cut into 8 slices American-style prepared yellow mustard to taste (optional) 3 tablespoons butter, softened 1/4 head iceberg lettuce 2 tomatoes, sliced Preheat a sandwich press or griddle. In a saute sau·té tr.v. sau·téed, sau·té·ing, sau·tés To fry lightly in fat in a shallow open pan. n. A dish of food so prepared. pan or skillet, cook bacon until crispy. Set aside. Place 8 slices turkey on each of 4 slices of bread. Layer each with 2 slices of bacon and 2 slices of cheese. Dress with mustard, and close sandwiches with remaining bread slices. Spread outside of each sandwich with a small amount of butter. Cook sandwiches in press (OR on a griddle, covered with a bacon iron) 5 to 7 minutes or until crispy and golden brown. Open sandwiches, add lettuce and tomato, and then close again. Cut each sandwich diagonally in half and serve immediately. Makes 4 servings. ROASTED YELLOWTAIL SNAPPER snapper, name for members of the Lutianidae, a family of spiny-finned food and game fishes found chiefly in tropical coastal waters. Snappers are carnivorous, active, and voracious, with large mouths and sharp teeth. Most species travel in dense schools. WITH POTATOES, OLIVES AND TOMATOES This is a fail-safe, simple recipe for yellowtail snapper, which is a game fish with a delicate flaky flaky - (Or "flakey") Subject to frequent lossage. This use is of course related to the common slang use of the word to describe a person as eccentric, crazy, or just unreliable. texture. You can prepare everything ahead of time and keep it in the refrigerator until your guests arrive. When you buy the yellowtail, ask to have it cleaned and scaled, if possible. Red snapper can be substituted. It is a bit firmer-fleshed than its cousin, the yellowtail. FISH: 1 yellowtail snapper (about 3 pounds), cleaned and scaled, with skin on 1 teaspoon salt VEGETABLES: 2 baking potatoes, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch-thick slices 3 tomatoes, halved and sliced 1 cup pitted alphonso OR nicoise black olives 1 teaspoon chopped oregano leaves 1/4 cup olive oil 4 cloves garlic, sliced 1/4 cup dry sherry Salt and pepper to taste 1 tablespoon chopped parsley, for garnish Make 3 slits, about 4 inches long, along each side of yellowtail, about 3 inches apart. Sprinkle yellowtail with salt and place in a deep-sided baking dish. Place all vegetables ingredients except parsley in a mixing bowl and mix well. Pour all around yellowtail in baking dish. Bake in preheated 450-degree oven, 30 to 35 minutes or until fish flakes easily. Remove dish from oven and serve fish whole at table or transfer fish and vegetables to individual serving plates. Sprinkle with parsley and serve. Makes 4 servings. LATINO-STYLE CHICKEN FRICASSE This is a no-nonsense kind of dish. Just pop it in the oven and let it cook without having to worry about it. To create the most flavorful fricassee fric·as·see n. Poultry or meat cut into pieces and stewed in gravy. tr.v. fric·as·seed, fric·as·see·ing, fric·as·sees To prepare (poultry or meat) by cutting into pieces and stewing in gravy. , use the driest white wine available. 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil 1 chicken (about 3 pounds), cut into 8 pieces, with backbone and skin removed 1 small onion, halved and sliced into half-moons 3 cloves garlic, minced 1 cup dry white wine 1 red bell pepper, seeded and cut into 1/2-inch dice 2 ripe tomatoes, seeded and cut into 1/2-inch dice 3 tablespoons drained capers CAPERS. Vessels of war owned by private persons, and different from ordinary privateers (q.v.) only in size, being smaller. Bea. Lex. Mer. 230. 1/4 cup slivered alphonso OR nicoise black olives 2 russet rus·set n. 1. A moderate to strong brown. 2. A coarse reddish-brown to brown homespun cloth. 3. A winter apple with a rough reddish-brown skin. 4. A russet Burbank. adj. potatoes, peeled and cubed Salt to taste Hot cooked rice In a large skillet, heat olive oil. Sear sear 1 v. seared, sear·ing, sears v.tr. 1. To char, scorch, or burn the surface of with or as if with a hot instrument. See Synonyms at burn1. 2. chicken pieces over medium-high heat until browned on all sides. Stir in onion and garlic and cook 2 minutes. Add wine, bell pepper, tomatoes, capers, olives and potatoes. Cover pan with a lid and reduce heat. Simmer 20 to 25 minutes, until tender. Season with salt and serve over rice. Makes 4 servings. COCONUT ICE MILK This rich-tasting dessert is a must for coconut lovers. In South America, coconut ice is a popular and soothing refreshment. 2 cups milk 1 cup sugar 1 can (14 ounces) unsweetened coconut milk 2 tablespoons dark rum Bring milk and sugar to a boil in a heavy-bottomed saucepan, stirring occasionally. Remove from heat and let cool. Stir in coconut milk and rum. Transfer to an ice cream machine. Freeze according to manufacturer's directions. Makes 1 1/4 quarts. CAPTION(S): 3 Photos Photo: (1--2--Color) no caption (Chef Douglas Rodriguez- Nuevo Latino food) (3) Smoked Queso Blanco Salsa is a wonderful and tasty dipping salsa for chips. The salsa is also a great with grilled steak or chops. David Crane/Daily News |
|
||||||||||||||
Bahamas 
Printer friendly
Cite/link
Email
Feedback
Reader Opinion