NEW SPAGO BETTER THAN THE ORIGINAL; BEVERLY HILLS PLAYS HOST TO PUCK'S LATEST.

Byline: Larry Lipson Daily News Restaurant Critic

The same town that's responsible for a ``Jurassic Park'' sequel now has a second Spago.

And, believe it or not, a second Chasen's as well. But that's another story.

The question is, can this town handle two Wolfgang Puck flagships at the same time?

I think it can, even though the newest one, the Beverly Hills Spago, automatically places the original several steps behind it.

When the opportunity arose for a brand-new Spago in Beverly Hills, Puck and partner/wife Barbara Lazaroff, wisely jumped at the chance.

And when the dilemma about the original location in West Hollywood lingered because nobody wanted to pay big bucks to acquire it, it made sense (the lease still had four years to go) to carry on as before with a restaurant that was still a consistent, proven winner.

So while the Sunset Strip hasn't lost its most illustrious dinery, Spago-Beverly Hills has become the hot table spot of the moment.

It is also a restaurant that now fits its image and the perception that most of the world had of it. As Puck himself puts it, ``We're now world class.''

As for its design, Lazaroff basically demolished the old Bistro Garden building (except for one banquet room) then pulled out all the stops in making it singular and distinctive while restraining her most outrageous impulses.

Her bright spots of color show up here and there, but in this instance, don't raise eyebrows.

Wood has been utilized effectively, lending sturdy comfort without denigrating an overall contemporary feel.

The j-shaped ``flame of life'' shows up throughout the restaurant, even on the chairs, as an an appealing, tasteful reminder that this is a place where, hopefully joy and contentment will reign.

As for the food, Puck and his talented staff headed by ex-Granita chef Lee Hefter, do things that are both expected and unexpected.

There's a bringing together of old-world homeyness and cutting-edge avant-garde cooking. Call it ``Austriasian-Califrench'' if you wish.

Where else can you find wonderful European tastes like rich beef goulash ($14 at lunch with spaetzles), an Austrian form of cheese ravioli called karntner kasenudeln ($13.50 at dinner), even that old fave wienerschnitzel ($26 at dinner with a mache salad) along with a couple of neo-Asians: an appetizer of marinated Japanese hamachi (yellowtail) with seaweed salad, pumpkin seed oil, yuzu and sticky rice ($16) and sesame-crusted monkfish with ginger-braised Napa cabbage and tamarind sauce ($25).

Seasonal ingredients have always been a hallmark of Puck-fare and it's not changed here. White asparagus spears were triumphantly large, crisp and crunchy with watercress, a lemon chamomile vinaigrette and a crisp parmesan chip ($9.50) as a lunch appetizer one day, easily a big enough dish to satisfy as a main course a normal lunchtime appetite. The dinner version jumps to $16.

Intensely flavored vegetable soups like a bright green pea and sugar snap pea recipe ($7.50) are constant delights, this one on a balmy Saturday afternoon with mint and basil flavorings and a scattering of Maine ``peeky toe'' crabmeat. An evening edition alternative of green asparagus soup ($12.50) offered a confit of baby leeks and Maine lobster meat another time.

Spagophiles have not been forgotten. They'd expect pizza and pasta at a Spago no matter how posh-looking it is.

And Puck doesn't disappoint. His smoked-salmon pizza is a regular lunch item. And there are others.

Also, the name Spago itself, a colloquially shortened form of the word spaghetti, indicates the importance of the venerable noodle; consequently, you'll always find several pasta options on any Spago menu.

One day recently, it was an enjoyable noontime rendition of premises-cut tagliatelle tossed with good shrimp, marinated tomatoes, garlic, basil and a touch of spicy chili pepper ($12).

And didn't Puck make appetizers with goat cheese famous?

At his new Spago, you'll find it with beets and nuts ($10.50) for a colorful nosh.

But there's always that global roamin' to the fare. Hefter's kitchen, for example, pan-roasts baby chickens simply and delivers them with a porcini mushroom risotto ($25.50) as a dinner satisfaction and roasts sea bass carefully for a somewhat traditional ``loup de mer'' plate with bouillabaisse broth ($26.50), yet he sometimes loops the loup, imparting that hint of Asia with a lemongrass broth.

Service has been slightly inconsistent to date, though never really bad. Sometimes, there even seems to be too many staffers bustling around - except your own waiter or waitress.

Eventually, of course, you can always ask one of them to get your assigned person. But should you have to?

Desserts, another shining Puck trademark, can be very good here from pastry chef Sherry Yard. Chocolatey things like an espresso ice cream cake concoction can be deliriously delicious. And other goodies like strawberry puffs, strudels and the like affirm Yard's talented hand.

But the best thing about the new Spago is that it's open for lunch and has a magnificent patio area (if you're lucky enough to secure a table), which means that you can enjoy a leisurely meal during the noon hours and still have some funds left for the rest of the week.

THE FACTS

The restaurant: Spago-Beverly Hills.

Where: 176 N. Canon Drive, Beverly Hills.

When: Open for lunch from 11:30 a.m. to 2:15 p.m. daily except Sunday, for dinner from 6 to 10 p.m. Monday through Thursday, from 5:30 to 10:30 p.m. Friday and Saturday, from 5:30 to 10 p.m. Sunday.

Behind the scenes: Wolfgang Puck and Barbara Lazaroff are co-owners. Lee Hefter is chef de cuisine.

Recommended items: Soups, white asparagus in season, goat cheese and beet terrine, pizzas, Austrian goulash, tagliatelle with shrimp, loup de mer (seabass), karntner kasenudeln (Austrian cheese ravioli), pan-roasted baby chicken, roast beef with mashed potatoes, espresso ice cream cake, strudel, strawberry puff.

How much: Starters from $7.50 to $18, pizzas from $14 to $15, pastas and entrees from $16 to $32, desserts $7.50 each. Full bar. All major credit cards.

Wine list: As well-rounded a list as you'll find in a restaurant these days, with plenty of rarities and a decent range of prices. The sommelier knows his wines. His house choices indicate he knows what he's doing. Recommended: Vega Sindoa cabernet/tempranillo, Navarra 1994 $6 per glass, $22 per bottle from Spain.

Reservations: Absolutely necessary. Call [phone].

Our rating: Four Stars for food; Three Stars for service; Three and One Half Stars for wine.

CAPTION(S):

Photo

Photo: Co-owner Wolfgang Puck puts a meal together at the new Spago on North Canon Drive in Beverly Hills.

Hans Gutknecht/Daily News