NEW COOKBOOKS BY STEWART, PEPIN TASTY BLENDS OF EARLIER EFFORTS.

Byline: Peter D. Franklin Special to the Daily News

Just when you think you have seen everything ...

Well, in the case of ``The Martha Stewart Cookbook: Collected Recipes for Every Day'' by Martha Stewart (Potter; $27.50) and ``Jacques Pepin's Table: The Complete Today's Gourmet'' by Jacques Pepin (KQED Books; $35), you may well have seen everything.

Both hefty cookbooks are compilations of works that the authors have presented before in different forms. Stewart's contains a whopping 1,600 recipes. The number represents all the recipes in nine previously published cookbooks, beginning with her first, ``Entertaining'' (Potter, 1982).

The Pepin book kills two birds with one stone. It not only collects the recipes from three seasons of cooking for public television, but also the three cookbooks that accompanied his 78 TV lessons: ``Today's Gourmet'' (1991), ``Good Life Cooking'' (1994) and ``Happy Cooking!'' (1994). All were published in paperback by KQED Books.

Should you be parsimonious, there's money to be saved in this sort of thing. Pepin's single volume represents a savings of $9.85 over buying each of the three previous books. As for Martha Stewart's collected works, the savings are Brobdingnagian. The retail on her ``Gardening'' book alone was $50.

Of course, what you lose in the transition are all the sumptuous color photographs of Stewart, her surroundings and her recipes. There's none of that in the new book. Nor are the hands of Pepin seen boning a chicken or shaping ``oeufs a la neige.'' However, his face is depicted in more full-page color portraits than Stewart ever enjoyed in any of her works. But then, it's not the face that matters here; it's the body of the work.

I enjoyed both books for what they are: collections of two culinary stars at the top of their profession. Although almost overwhelming, Stewart's 1,600 recipes are a wonderful reference to her 13 years as a cookbook author. I should say 1,602 recipes, because she could not resist adding two - Oven-Roasted Tomatoes and Grilled Fruit - in her introduction. They are among ``my current favorite recipes,'' she writes.

The 640-page book contains 21 chapters, from Hors d'Oeuvres, Eggs and Soups to Wedding Cakes, Preserves and Beverages. There are 76 pages of hors d'oeuvres, which should be enough to get anyone's gastronomic juices flowing. Among the pies and tarts, there are 15 recipes for apple but only one each for persimmon and papaya. Her 31 pages of salads range from Arugula and Red Oakleaf Salad With Flowering Chervil to a Warm Salad of Winter Vegetables.

Because of the way the 304 recipes are presented, Pepin's book is easier to read. In it he summarizes the theme of all his 15 cookbooks: ``Recipes that are delicious and, in large part, quick to prepare, uncomplicated, inexpensive and healthy.'' In that regard, each recipe is accompanied by a nutritional analysis.

The recipes are presented by course. After a list of the menus featured on his television show, Pepin takes us through 111 pages of first courses, 129 pages of main dishes, a paltry 53 pages of side dishes and 101 pages of desserts. There also is a chapter of Bread and Basics.

Ever the teacher, the French-born chef offers information and tips on many of the recipes. In making crepes, for example, he says the ``most important thing to remember ... is to spread the batter very quickly in the hot skillet so it will not solidify before it coats the bottom of the pan.'' Also, when cooking pasta, he does not add salt to the water. ``I'd rather save the salt for use in the sauce,'' he writes.

Stewart and Pepin fans undoubtedly will enjoy having so many recipes of theirs in single volumes. For those unfamiliar with either cook, the books are an excellent introduction to their work.

Pepin suggests this quick, easy and colorful dish as a first course to a festive dinner. The snow peas are cooked very quickly in a minimum of water so as to retain their nutrients.

SAUTEED SCALLOPS WITH SNOW PEAS

1/2 pound snow peas, trimmed

1/4 cup water

1/2 red bell pepper

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

2 tablespoons virgin olive oil 

12 ounces small sea scallops

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 

1/2 teaspoon Tabasco sauce

Place snow peas in 1 very large or 2 smaller skillets with water. Cook, covered, 2 minutes, and then uncover and cook until dry.

Meanwhile, remove skin from bell pepper with a vegetable peeler. Cut pepper flesh into 1/4-inch dice. Add red pepper to snow peas. Then add 1/2 tablespoon butter and 1 tablespoon oil. Saute over high heat 2 minutes. Arrange on 4 individual plates.

Remove and discard any tough muscles from scallops. Sprinkle scallops with salt and pepper. Heat remaining butter and oil in a skillet. When very hot, add scallops and Tabasco sauce. Saute over very high heat 2 to 3 minutes.

Arrange scallops on snow peas and serve immediately. Makes 4 servings.

From ``Jacques Pepin's Table The Complete Today's Gourmet'' by Jacques Pepin, KQED Books.

FRESH CRAB DIP

Garnish this dip with sprigs of fresh dill. As a festive way to serve the crab dip, you can use the top shell portion from a large Dungeness crab. The crab also will provide fresh meat for the dip. This is delicious with blanched sugar snap peas and pieces of red, yellow and orange bell peppers.

3/4 cup mayonnaise

3/4 cup Creme Fraiche (recipe follows)

1 teaspoon finely grated lemon peel

1 1/2 teaspoons Tabasco sauce

1/2 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

1/2 teaspoon finely minced garlic

Coarse kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

2 pounds crab meat, picked over for cartilage

In a large bowl, mix together mayonnaise, Creme Fraiche, lemon peel, Tabasco sauce, nutmeg, garlic, salt and pepper. Gently fold in crab meat.

Keep covered and in refrigerator until ready to serve. Makes 4 cups.

From ``The Martha Stewart Cookbook Collected Recipes for Every Day'' by Martha Stewart, Clarkson Potter.

CREME FRAICHE

Making your own creme fraiche requires planning ahead. If you find you don't have time, a dollop of sour cream may be substituted in the above recipe.

2 cups whipping cream

2 tablespoons buttermilk OR sour cream

Heat cream over low heat to 100 degrees F. Add buttermilk and mix well. Put in a covered jar and let stand at room temperature 6 to 8 hours.

Refrigerate at least 24 hours before using. Creme fraiche can be kept in refrigerator 2 to 3 weeks. Makes 2 cups.

TAPENADE 1/2 cup oil-cured Mediterranean OR Greek olives, drained and pitted

4 to 6 oil-packed anchovy fillets OR to taste, drained

1 to 2 tablespoons freshly squeezed and strained lemon juice

1 teaspoon dry mustard

Freshly ground black pepper to taste

About 1/4 cup olive oil

Place all ingredients, except oil, in bowl of a food processor and process until mixture forms a paste. Scrape down sides of bowl and slowly add olive oil in steady stream until mixture is creamy.

Adjust seasonings to taste. Refrigerate, covered, until ready to use. Makes 1 cup.

VARIATIONS: Tapenade can be flavored by placing any of the following in a food processor with other ingredients: 1 small crushed garlic clove, 1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, 1/4 teaspoon ground bay leaf, 1/4 teaspoon dried thyme, 3 tablespoons drained tuna, 1 hard-cooked egg, and/or 1 teaspoon cognac.

From ``The Martha Stewart Cookbook Collected Recipes for Every Day'' by Martha Stewart, Clarkson Potter.

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2 Photos

Photo: (1--2--Color) no caption (Book cover - JACQUES PE PIN'S TABLE & THE MARTHA STEWART COOKBOOK)