NEW & NOTEWORTHY.

COOKBOOKS: Simple, yet marvelous, is the easiest way to describe Greek cuisine, and now there are two new books that show how to make it.

``The Foods of the Greek Islands - Cooking and Culture at the Crossroads of the Mediterranean,'' by Aglaia Kremezi (Houghton Mifflin; $35), and ``The Glorious Foods of Greece,'' by Diane Kochilas (William Morrow; $40), offer recipes passed down through generations. Kremezi also includes recipes from New York's acclaimed Greek restaurant Molyvos.

Kremezi, who grew up in Greece and learned to cook primarily from her mother, received a Julia Child Award for her first book, ``The Foods of Greece.'' She toured Greece extensively for eight years, collecting traditional and contemporary recipes, including Tzatziki Me Maratho (yogurt, garlic, cucumber and fennel dip) and Kouneli me Skordo Ke Feta (rabbit baked in garlic, feta and lemon sauce).

Her recipes offer step-by-step instructions, along with the cultural or historical background of the dish. While most recipes are identified by both their Greek and English names, the index lists the Greek names, which can make the book difficult to navigate.

By contrast, Kochilas' book is like a Greek version of ``The Joy of Cooking.'' The 500-page book takes an extensive look at the culinary traditions of the region and encompasses the entire country's cuisine. The 400 recipes range from a simple Makaronopita (macaroni pie) to such complex dishes as Htapothi Capama tis Ithikas (Ithican octopus ragout with tomatoes and celery).

This book is organized geographically, with each chapter beginning with a culinary history of the region and a description of ingredients common or unique to the area. It features special traditions and preparation tips.

Kochilas' recipes, however, are not as well written as Kremezi's. For example, Broust'li (flat-bread with caramelized onions) had agreeable texture, but everybody tasting it reached for the salt shaker. Moreover, the directions failed to point out some simple yet important steps, like the proper water temperature for dissolving the yeast or the fact that bread rises best in a warm, humid environment. Such tips are needed by the novice cook.

Despite such minor shortcomings, both volumes would be welcome additions to any international cookbook collection.

- San Francisco Chronicle 

FREEBIE LEAFLET: Pyrex has teamed up with cookbook author Rick Rodgers to create some delicious recipes for those on the go in ``Rick Rodgers' Summer Recipes and Outdoor Entertaining Guide.'' Among the tempting-sounding dishes are Seven-Layer Vegetable Caesar Salad, Mediterranean Potato Salad With Roasted Peppers, Roasted Garlic and White Bean Dip and Fudgy Raspberry Brownies. For a free copy, send a self-addressed, stamped business-size envelope to Pyrex Portables Recipe Booklet Offer, CN-3604, Eatontown, N.J. 07724-3604. Allow six weeks for delivery.

- Natalie Haughton

NEW ON THE SHELF: Kellogg's recently introduced Special K With Red Berries cereal made with crunchy rice and wheat flakes and freeze-dried strawberries. Tasters gave this new cereal a thumbs up and noted that it really tasted good. Even better, one cup has just 110 calories and is fat- and cholesterol-free. Available in a pink and red box, a 12-ounce package has a suggested retail price of about $3.50.

- N.H.

WINE WINNERS

Beaulieu Vineyard (BV), one of Napa Valley's California stalwarts, has captured the Los Angeles County Fair Best of Competition award for the second year in a row.

This year Beaulieu won with its Meritage (Bordeaux-blend) 1997 Tapestry Reserve ($40) red wine.

Just under 3,000 wines were tasted by 68 judges last week in the annual Wines of the Americas competition, with the winning entries available for tasting by attendees at the upcoming L.A. County Fair, Sept. 7-23.

Other notable winners were Best Chardonnay - Oak Grove's partially barrel-fermented 1999 (in the under $10 category); Best Sauvignon Blanc - Geyser Peak's 2000 vintage (under-$10 category); Best Merlot - Orfila Vineyards' 1998 Ambassador's Reserve ($27); Best Cabernet Sauvignon - Geyser Peak's reserve 1998 ($40); Best Pinot Noir - David Bruce's 1999 bottling ($30); Best Zinfandel (red) - Perry Creek's Zin Man 1998 Sierra Foothills wine (in the $10 to $18 category); and Best Syrah - Echelon's 1999 ($13.50).

For more detailed results, call [phone].

- Larry Lipson

CAPTION(S):

4 photos

Photo:

(1) no caption (``The Foods of the Greek Islands'')

(2) no caption (``The Glorious Foods of Greece'')

(3) no caption (Kellogg's Special K cereal)

(4) no capiton (``Rick Rodgers' Summer Recipes'')