Mise en place.

Spring is a time of change. Change in attitude, in wardrobe, in the earth, and surely in appetite. The changing voice of the food industry is a constant source of inspiration for our feature ideas. As chefs express their autonomy in every way from literary memoirs to personalized apparel, their food is no longer the sole form of expression. Change also means flexibility. Take mint, for example, a truly cooperative herb. Though it is used in kitchens from Peru to Paris to Mae Ping, it is oft neglected in the kitchen; reduced to a walk on role as 'the garnish.' The more mainstream dish of fish and chips is cashed in for an ethnic over-hall as several chefs dive off the deep end to define fish and chips. And an old favorite is revisited in hopes of spawning new ideas.

Lately, a lot of people are dredging up the Danube. This curvaceous stretch of water, winds its way through the fertile valleys of six different countries; gathering momentum on its way past Alpine streams, dramatically affecting the food and wine culture of central Europe. As tempting as it was to feature the entire Danube region, we decided to focus on a single country, one known for its rich wine heritage, organic farming, and artisanal orchards. While in the southern plains of Austria we were treated to a tour and tasting of Herr Golles's incredible selection of vinegars and eau-de-vie style schnaps-not the fruity liquor you may have sucked down in college. So rejuvenated by what we saw and ate were we that we decided spring would be the ideal time to refresh the culinary world's memory about the majesty of Austria.

As the planting season begins and lamb returns to menus across the country, mint remains prolific outside and in. As we discovered, mint is a universal herb. Unmistakable in Middle Eastern salads, European herbal remedies, English teas, Thai spring rolls, and in the beverage of choice in the Deep South during May. We enlisted the help of three chefs, one known for his elegant and honest Italian cuisine, another heralded for the freshest Greek seafood menu in the United States, and a New Englander who has no doubt lived a past life in the south of France. Each chef imparts a distinct use of the herb, and reaffirms that this 'green' is all too often overlooked as an ingredient and over-employed as an obligatory, yet minor accessory on the plate.

As the warmth of spring works its way up the Eastern seaboard, so too does the shad. This saltwater fish swims inland along the great rivers to spawn. The appearance of shad roe is a sure sign of spring. Though many fail to see its culinary merits, those who love it await its arrival each year.

Fish and Chips is one of the few dishes for which the English gladly take the credit. As the weather warms and eating outdoors becomes an option, this ultimate street food becomes a feasible delight when going out for long awaited strolls or to a home opener. Though the oil soaked newspaper and malt vinegar stereotype sticks for a reason, the concept of fish and chips provides an interesting foil if taken out of context and placed into the soulful minds of three young chefs. Here too we sought the expertise of the chef's background. We were served up some of the most innovative versions by three chefs; a true Brit. and first time Executive Chef, a new corner to the New York restaurant scene, lauded for her accomplishments with seafood, and last but not least, a stalwart-someone we knew would stir things up with his bold and uninhibited approach to just about everything he does.

Enjoy!

The Crew at Art Culinaire