Middle Eastern savory salads. (International Flair).

WHEN I WAS A YOUTH, especially during the summer months, almost every day my mother would prepare a Middle Eastern salad. What I remember most is that these green dishes were always delectable and full of flavor. It never dawned on me until much later in life that these salads were also so very nourishing. Since then, I often prepare these dishes for my non-Arab friends and use the opportunity to inform them of the healthful qualities of the salads that they inevitably enjoy.

During our early farming years, in summer, the vegetables used in these delightful light meals, such as beets, cabbage, cucumber, lettuce, sweet peppers, and, above all, parsley, were all grown in our hand-watered garden. As our family became a little more affluent, we were able to buy, in winter, some fresh vegetables in the village store. To these, my mother would add other ingredients, like broad beans, chickpeas, and lentils--all grown in our garden and dried by hand--along with bulgur, to create wholesome salads.

Middle Eastern salads, like the ones my mother prepared, are made to be nourishing and delicious with a variety of ingredients. One of the most important of these ingredients is bulgur, a cooked wheat cereal, which has been eaten by people in the Middle East since the dawn of civilization. During the long depression years, it was the basic food of our family in western Canada. A very healthful cereal, it is a much enjoyed food by vegetarian and other health-conscious people in North America.

Lentils, used in a number of salads, are a lowfat legume; half a cup of cooked lentils contains about 116 calories. Highly nutritious, lentils are chock-full of minerals like iron, magnesium, phosphorus, and potassium, and are also rich in protein, fiber, and folate.

Chickpea salads, which often graced our table during the days of my youth, are just as good for you. Even though delicious when eaten fresh, chickpeas are usually used in salads once they've been cooked and dried. Soaked and peeled, they are excellent as a salad by themselves or when combined with other ingredients. Chickpeas have been used in salads for many centuries in the Middle East and are much loved.

Lesser known than chickpeas in the Western world are broad or fava beans. Their pods are delicious if picked green and tender. However, in salads, the dry beans are usually used. They are soaked, then cooked and drained, before being utilized as an ingredient.

As condiments, lemon juice, olive oil, and pomegranate syrup are mainly used, and the most common herbs are garlic, fresh cilantro, mint, and parsley. The most popular spices are cayenne pepper, cumin, nutmeg, pepper, and sumac. To give these salads even more zest, onions, olives, and pine or other nuts can be added.

Middle Eastern salads can be appetizers, entrees, or accompaniments to the main course. They are never monotonous, since they can be altered in many ways. In almost any salad recipe, other vegetables, herbs, or spices may be recombined.

The people of the Middle East have, through the centuries, refined their edibles into a tasty, healthy fare. It is no wonder then that this cuisine, with a history going back to early Egyptian and Mesopotamian civilizations, is often found on healthy menus in Europe and North America.

SAFSOOF
BULGUR AND
CHICKPEA SALAD
(Servos 8 to 10)

This salad becomes more crunchy and
flavorful if a half cup of dried chickpeas
is substituted for 1 cup of cooked.
The dried chickpeas should be soaked
overnight, then drained. Put the chickpeas,
one handful at a time, in a small
cloth bag, then roll over them with a
rolling pin to break them up. Discard
loose skins before using.

1/2 cup fine bulgur
1 large bunch parsley, finely chopped
1 cup cooked chickpeas
1 small bunch green onions, finely chopped
3 medium tomatoes, finely chopped
1 medium cucumber, about 5 inches long,
  peeled and finely chopped
1 1/2 cups chopped fresh mint
3 Tablespoons olive oil
4 Tablespoons lemon juice
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon pepper
1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper

Soak bulgur in cold water for 10
minutes. Drain well by pressing
water out through a fine strainer.

Place bulgur, parsley, chickpeas,
onions, tomatoes, cucumber, and
mint into a salad bowl. Stir and set
aside. Whisk together the olive oil,
lemon juice, salt, pepper, and
cayenne, then pour over vegetables
and stir to coat thoroughly. Chill for
about 1 hour, then toss and serve.

Total calories per serving: 139    Fat: 6 grams
Carbohydrates: 19 grams            Protein: 5 grams
Sodium: 307 milligrams             Fiber: 6 grams
SALATAT RUZ
RICE SALAD
(Serves about 8)

Use brown instead of white rice in
this salad for variety.

4 cups cooked rice
2 medium tomatoes, diced
4 Tablespoons chopped green onions
2 Tablespoons finely chopped fresh mint
2 Tablespoons lemon juice
1 Tablespoon olive oil
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon cumin
1/2 teaspoon pepper
i/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1/2 cup pimento-stuffed green olives

Thoroughly combine all ingredients,
except green olives, in a salad bowl,
then decorate with olives and serve.

Total calories per serving: 141    Fat: 4 grams
Carbohydrates: 25 grams            Protein: 3 grams
Sodium: 309 milligrams             Fiber: 2 grams
FATTOUSH
(Serves about 8)

Sumac is a common Middle Eastern
ingredient, found in almost all
Middle Eastern stores in the large
urban centers of North America. If
you can't find it, lemon juice, to taste,
may be substituted.

This dish is pictured on page 11
as well as the front cover.

4 cups chopped lettuce
1 medium cucumber, peeled and diced
2 medium tomatoes, chopped
1 medium onion, finely chopped
4 Tablespoons finely chopped fresh cilanto
4 Tablespoons finely chopped parsley
2 Tablespoons finely chopped fresh mint
2 doves garlic, crushed
3 Tablespoons dried sumac
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon pepper
3 Tablespoons olive oil
1 Tablespoon lemon juice
2 cups plain croutons or well-toasted pit.
  brood broken into small pieces

Thoroughly combine all ingredients,
except croutons, then stir in
croutons and serve immediately.

Total calories per serving: 103    Fat: 6 grams
Carbohydrates: 12 grams            Protein: 2 grams
Sodium: 351 milligrams             Fiber: 2 grams
MAHAMARA
RED PEPPER SALAD
(Serves about 8)

This tasty, well-known Syrian dish,
which adds color to any meal, can be
served as an appetizer or a salad.

1/2 cup fine bulgur
4 large sweet red peppers
1/2 cup pine nuts
2 Tablespoons pomegranate syrup
  (grenadine), dissolved in a little water
1 Tablespoon lemon juice
3/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon cumin
1/2 teaspoon pepper
1/4 teaspoon cayenne
1 Tablespoon olive oil

Soak bulgur for 10 minutes in cold
water, and drain by pressing water
out through a fine strainer. Place
bulgur in a mixing bowl, then set
aside.

Roast or broil peppers in an
oven, turning them over a number
of times until they blister on all
sides. Remove from oven and let
cool. When they are cool enough
to handle, peel off skin and remove
seeds. Chop finely, then combine
with bulgur and pine nuts, pomegranate
syrup, lemon juice, salt,
cumin, pepper, and cayenne. Spread
on a platter, then chill for 2 hours.
Just before serving, sprinkle
with olive oil.

Total calories per serving: 130    Fat: 6 grams
Carbohydrates: 17 grams            Protein: 4 grams
Sodium: 222 milligrams             Fiber: 4 grams
SALATAT BASAL
WA SUMMAQ
ONION AND SUMAC SALAD
(Serves about 8)

This simple salad makes a tasty dish
that goes well with other foods.

3 largo Spanish, onions, thinly diced
3/4 cup vinegar
1 teaspoon salt
2 Tablespoons sumac

In a salad bowl, place onions, vinegar,
and salt, then barely cover with
water and allow to stand for 3
hours, gently tossing occasionally.

Drain and discard liquid. Place
on a serving platter, then sprinkle
with sumac and gently toss just
before serving.

Total calories per serving: 25    Fat: <1 gram
Carbohydrates: 6 grams            Protein: 1 gram
Sodium: 293 milligrams            Fiber: 1 gram
TABBOULAH
BULGUR AND
PARSLEY SALAD
(Serves about 8)

Considered in the Middle East to be
the mother of all salads, this healthy
and delectable dish is fast becoming a
common dish among the health-conscious
population of North America.

1/2 cup medium bulgur
2 large bunches of parsley, washed,
  stemmed, then finely chopped
1 cup finely chopped green onions
1/2 cup finely chopped fresh mint
2 large tomatoes, diced into 1/4-inch cubes
4 Tablespoons lemon juice
2 Tablespoons olive oil
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon pepper
Lettuce leaves

Soak bulgur in cold water for 10
minutes. Press out water through a
fine strainer.

Place bulgur, parsley, onions,
mint, and tomatoes in a mixing
bowl. Thoroughly mix and set
aside.

Whisk together lemon juice, oil,
salt, and pepper, then pour over bulgur
and vegetables and toss.

Cover bottom and sides of
serving bowl with lettuce leaves.
Place bulgur mixture on top and
serve.

Total calories per serving: 81   Fat: 4 grams
Carbohydrates: 11 grams            Protein: 2 grams
Sodium: 304 milligrams             Fiber: 3 grams
SALATAT FOOL
BROAD BEAN SALAD
(Serves 4 to 6)

This salad, which can be served as
an appetizer or side dish, takes
almost no time to prepare, yet it is
very delectable.

1 pound fresh or frozen shelled green
  broad beans, cooked and cooled
1/2 cup finely chopped parsley
4 Tablespoons chopped green onions
2 doves garlic, crushed
2 Tablespoons olive oil
2 Tablespoon lemon juice
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon pepper

Thoroughly combine all ingredients,
then place the salad on a platter
and serve.

Total calories per serving: 168    Fat: 8 grams
Carbohydrates: 22 grams            Protein: 9 grams
Sodium: 325 milligrams             Fiber: 1 gram
SALATAT CADAS
LENTIL SALAD
(Serves about 8)

In the Middle East, lentils are still
the mainstay of many peasants and
city poor. They are vegetarian food
par excellence that put meat dishes
to shame.

1 cup lentils, rinsed
6 caps water
4 Tablespoons olive oil
1/4 cap lemon juice
1 bunch green onions, finely chopped
3 large tomatoes, chopped
1 cap cooked chickpeas (canned is okay)
1/2 cap finely chopped parsley
1 large sweet red pepper, finely chopped
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon pepper

Cook lentils in water until tender
(about 15 minutes), but still intact
and slightly firm, then drain and
allow to cool. Add oil, lemon juice,
green onions, tomatoes, chickpeas,
parsley, red pepper, salt, and pepper
and combine thoroughly. Serve
immediately.

Total calories per serving: 202    Fat: 8 grams
Carbohydrates: 26 grams            Protein: 10 grams
Sodium: 305 milligrams             Fiber: 11 grams
BATATA MUTABBALA
POTATO SALAD
(Serves about 6)

This Arabic version of potato salad,
which my mother often prepared,
makes a relishing change from the
usual mayonnaise type, and is perfect
for picnics and barbecues.

4 large potatoes, cooked, peeled, and diced
1/2 cap finely chopped green onions
4 Tablespoons finely chopped parsley
2 Tablespoons finely chopped fresh mint
4 Tablespoons lemon juice
2 Tablespoons olive oil
2 doves garlic, crushed
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon pepper
1/2 teaspoon cumin

Place potatoes, green onions, parsley,
and mint in a salad bowl, and
set aside.

In a small bowl, combine
lemon juice, oil, garlic, salt, pepper,
and cumin. Gently stir into
vegetables in salad bowl. Chill for
at least 1 hour. Toss and serve.

Total calories per serving: 136    Fat: 5 grams
Carbohydrates: 25 grams            Protein: 4 grams
Sodium: 392 milligrams             Fiber: 3 grams
SALATAT BANADURA
WA KUZBARA
TOMATO AND
CILANTRO SALAD
(Serves about 6)

Variations of this salad can be found
all over the Middle East, but this version
is quite popular in Yemen.

5 medium-sized tomatoes, quartered
and thinly sliced
3/4 cap chopped fresh cilantro
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon pepper
1/8 teaspoon cayenne
3 Tablespoons lemon jab
2 Tablespoons olive oil

Place tomatoes and cilantro in a
bowl. Gently toss and set aside.

In a small bowl, thoroughly
mix salt, pepper, cayenne, lemon
juice, and olive oil. Pour over tomatoes
and cilantro and toss just
before serving.

Total calories per serving: 64    Fat: 5 grams
Carbohydrates: 5 grams            Protein: 1 gram
Sodium: 397 milligrams            Fiber: 1 gram

Habeeb Salloun is a regular contributor to
Vegetarian Journal. He lives in Canada