Michael Stadtlander: Eigensinn Farm Singhampton Ontario, Canada.

The resemblance of Michael and Nobuyo Stadtlander to John Lennon and Yoko Ono is uncanny. However, the ardent couple who own, operate, and cherish their retreat in the northern woods of Ontario offer not love-ins, but dine-ins. His lean, six-foot-six physique towers over her onyx mane, which flows along the better part of her petite, four-foot-eleven-inch frame. She hosts a warm smile for all occasions. On the farm, broadcast from a megaphone attached to the barn, jazz plays for the listening pleasure of the pigs, peacocks, chickens, freshwater trout, pheasants, and herb garden--all residents.

In the summer, guests armed with Riedel flutes full of bubbling champagne stroll through the forest. Crossing over a rolling brook, visitors enter a spectacular fairly-tale setting. Within this enchanted forest, they take their places at the tables encompassed by nature. Incredibly, in the middle of the forest, a portable kitchen is set up to execute a dinner in the spirit "Midsummer Night's Dream." In the winter, guests sit by the fireside in maple chairs hand-crafted by Stadtlander, himself. The walls are rustic; pieces of stone, sea shells, wine corks, and bottles are artistically encased in the exposed cement-soil mortar, also molded by Stadtlander.

An annual Bohemian-inspired pilgrimage in the "Liberator", the couple's red kitchen-bus, takes them to various locations across Canada. Filming for a Canadian food TV series, they prepare and serve dinner on the "magic" bus.

Born in northern Germany, Stadtlander always wanted to live in the countryside and moved to Canada thanks to its Nordic climate. During his tenure at the heart of Toronto's dining scene, he played mentor and motivator to many young chefs including Susur Lee. He was best known for his two restaurants, Stadtlander's and Nekah, where he created innovative Canadian cuisine.

The Eigensinn Farm allows Stadtlander to live and do exactly as he chooses. He does not hire employees, but takes on apprentices, simply because he can. They live, breathe, eat, sleep, and cook the farm. While tending to animals, assisting in garden, manning the smoke house, and grooming the grounds, apprentices become part of the Stadtlander family and gain a new respect for their craft, far beyond just learning to cook. There is no salary, just room and board, and the opportunity to learn any of the diverse skills, hobbies, and interests of their chef. "I'm not just into cooking," Stadtlander explains. "I would 'burn-out' if that's all I did." Other passions include furniture making, building, sculpting and of course, farming.

Named for a Hermann Hesse novel, Eigensinn is an expression of individuality and unity. Without a doubt, the property is simply a marvel, embodying its owner's mind, body, spirit, and best of all, culinary prowess. After eight years, with dinner service on Thursday to Sunday only, the restaurant still retains a legendary place in the heart of Canadians.

Lemon Foam with Wild Blueberry Compote (Serves 10)

directions

For the lemon foam: In a double boiler, whisk the lemon zest, juice, egg yolks, and half the sugar. Whisk until thick, pale, and doubled in volume. Add the softened gelatin to the egg mixture, and whisk until dissolved and well-combined. Remove from the heat, add the sour cream, and stir to combine. Transfer the bowl to an ice bath and set aside until chilled.

In an electric mixer fitted with whisk attachment, beat the remaining sugar and egg whites on high speed to form stiff glossy peaks. Fold the egg whites and whipped cream into the sabayon. Mix until well-combined. Cover with plastic wrap and chill in the refrigerator until firm

For the blueberry compote: In a medium saucepan, bring half the blueberries, the Riesling, and 1/2 cup maple syrup to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer until reduced to one cup. Remove from the heat, transfer to the a food processor and puree until smooth. Strain through a fine mesh sieve, and discard the solids. Add the remaining blueberries to the puree and stir to combine. Set aside in the refrigerator until chilled. Sweeten to taste with maple syrup.

To serve: Spoon some blueberry compote in the center of a plate and set a large quenelle of lemon foam on top. Pipe some whipped cream in the center and garnish with mint.

Chenin Blanc, Moelleux

Chappellel

Napa, California 1998

ingredients


For the lemon foam:
Zest and juice of 10 lemons
10 egg yolks
10 ounces granulated sugar
4 sheets gelatin, soaked in cold water
4 tablespoons sour cream
7 egg whites
2 cups heavy cream, whipped to soft peaks

For the blueberry compote:
2 1/4 pounds wild blueberries
2 cups Riesling
1/2 cup maple syrup
Maple syrup to taste

For the garnish:
Whipped cream
Mint sprigs

Wood Grilled Veal Cheek with a Warm Chanterelle Salad. (Serves 2)

directions

For the veal cheeks: In a large saucepan, cover the veal cheeks, onions, carrots, leek, celery root, thyme, peppercorns, juniper berries, and bay leaf with water. Simmer until tender, about two hours. Remove from the heat. Transfer the veal cheeks to a sheet pan and discard the cooking liquid. Prepare a hot grill with maple wood. Brush the veal cheeks liberally with oil, season, and grill on both sides until slightly marked. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool slightly. Separate the meat from the bone and slice. Keep warm.

For the chanterelle and romaine salad: In a saute pan, melt the butter. Add the chanterelles, saute until tender and transfer to a large bowl. Add the parsley, sunflower sprouts, bell pepper, and romaine lettuce; toss to coat, season, and set aside. In a small bowl, whisk together the oil, vinegar, and shallot. Season and drizzle over the chanterelle and romaine salad and toss to coat.

To serve: Place a veal bone in the center of a plate, set a mound of sliced veal cheek on top, and spoon some chanterelle salad over the dish.

Gamay, Moulin-a-Venl

Georges Duboeuf

Burgundy, France 1999

ingredients


For the veal cheeks:
2 veal cheeks on the bone *
2 onions, peeled and chopped
2 carrots, peeled and chopped
1 leek, trimmed and chopped
1 celery root, peeled and chopped
2 sprigs thyme
1 tablespoon black peppercorns
7 juniper berries
1 bay leaf
Olive oil, as needed
Salt and pepper to taste

For the chanterelle and romaine salad:
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
6 chanterelle mushrooms
2 sprigs parsley, stemmed and minced
1/4 cup sunflower sprouts
1 small red bell pepper, roasted, peeled,
seeded, and cut into thin strips
Leaves of 1 romaine lettuce heart, separated
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar
1 small shallot, peeled and minced
Salt and pepper to taste

* Available through most specialty butchers.

Oxtail Ravioli with Lentil Soup (Serves 10)

directions

For the oxtail ravioli filling: In a large saucepan, heat the oil and chili pepper. Add the oxtail and sear on all sides until brown. Add the carrot, celery root, onions, apples, and paprika and saute until soft. Add the Merlot and simmer until by half. Add the chicken stock and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer. Skim the surface of any impurities. Add the black peppercorns, juniper berries, thyme, rosemary, sage, lovage, and bay leaf. Simmer until the oxtail is tender, about three hours. Remove from the heat and transfer the oxtail to a cutting board to cool. Remove the meat from the bones, chop fine, and discard the bones. Return the pan to medium heat and simmer until reduced to a half cup. Remove from the heat and set aside. Add the oxtail meat, curry paste, lemon zest, and raisins to the reduced cooking liquid and stir to combine. Remove from the heat, season, and set aside in an ice bath to cool.

For the lentil soup: In a large saucepan, melt the duck fat. Add the onions, stir to coat, and saute until tender and golden brown. Add the garlic and lentils; stir to coat. Add the chicken stock, apple cider, thyme, and bay leaves and simmer until the lentils are tender, about two hours. Add the red wine, mustard, and maple syrup. Stir to combine; simmer until warmed through and season.

For the ravioli dough: In an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine the flour, egg yolks, eggs, olive oil, salt, and vinegar. Mix until just combined. Transfer the dough to a lightly floured work surface, and knead until smooth. Cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for one hour.

To assemble the ravioli: Transfer the dough to a lightly floured work surface, divide into thirds. Roll each piece of dough through a pasta machine several times starting at the thickest setting and ending on the thinnest. Using a 2-inch ring mold, cut out 60 pasta rounds and transfer half to a parchment-lined sheet pan. Spoon some oxtail tilling in the center of each and brush the edges with egg wash. Set the remaining pasta rounds on top, gently press the edges to remove any air bubbles, and seal the edges. Cover with plastic wrap and set aside.

For the leeks: In a large saute pan, melt the butter. Add the leeks and saute until tender. Remove from the heat and season, keeping warm.

To finish the ravioli: Bring a large saucepan of salted water to a boil. Add the ravioli and simmer until the ravioli float to the top. Drain and keep warm.

To serve: Arrange three ravioli per bowl and spoon some lentil soup on top. Spoon some leeks in the center, sprinkle with minced parsley, and garnish with parsley sprigs.

Pinot Noir, Pommard Jarolieres

Jean-Marc Boillot

Burgundy, France 1999

ingredients


For the oxtail ravioli filling:
Olive oil, as needed
1 dried red chili pepper, crushed
1 whole oxtail, cut into 1-inch pieces
1 carrot, peeled and chopped
1 small celery root peeled and chopped
2 onions, peeled and chopped
2 Granny Smith apples, peeldd, corred, and chopped
1 teaspoon peprika
2 cups merlot
4 1/4 cups chickn stock
2 tablespoon black peppercorns
1 tablespoon juniper berries
3 sprigs thyme
3 springs rosemary
3 springs sage
3 springs lovage
1 bay leaf
1 teaspoon hot curry paste
Zest of 1 lemon
2 1/2 ounces raising
Salt and pepper to taste

For the lentil soup:
2 tablespoons duck fat
3 small onions, peeled and chopped
3 cloves garlic, peeled and minced
1 cup French lentils
4 1/4 cups chicken stock
2 cups apple cider
2 sprigs thyme
2 bay leaves
1/2 cup dry red wine
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
1 tablespoon maple syrup
Salt, pepper, and sugar to taste

For the ravioli dough:
17 ounces bread flour
7 egg yolks
3 whole eggs
1 teaspoon olive oil
1 teaspoon white wine vinegar
2 egg yolks beaten with 1/4 cup water (for the egg wash)
A pinch of salt

For the leeks:
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 small leeks, trimmed and cut into thin strips
Salt to taste

For the garnish:
Parsley sprigs
Minced parsley

Suckling Pig Head Cheese with Beet Salad and Potato Crisps (Serves 10)

directions

For the head cheese: In a large saucepan, combine the head, shoulders, fore shanks, onions, peppercorns, juniper berries, cloves, thyme, and bay leaves with enough cold water to just cover. Bring to a gentle simmer until the ingredients are tender, about four hours. Transfer the head, shoulders, and fore shanks to a bowl and set aside to cool. Simmer the cooking liquid until reduced to four cups, skimming the surface as needed to remove any impurities. Remove from the heat, strain through a coffee filter-lined, fine mesh sieve, and set aside to cool to room temperature.

Place a 1/4 cup of reduced cooking liquid in the refrigerator until set; check the strength of the natural gelatin. Add the softened gelatin sheets and dissolve in the warmed cooking liquid as needed and set aside.

Remove the meat, skin, and tongue from the head, shoulders, and fore shanks. Chop fine and discard the bones. Place the pork meat and skin in a howl, season, and set aside. Arrange ten 6-ounce timbale molds on a sheet pan. Fill each mold three-quarters of the way with the pork mixture and pour enough reduced cooking liquid on top to cover. Gently tap each mold to remove any air pockets and refrigerate until set.

For the potato crisps: In a deep saute pan, melt thc pork fat. Add the potato slices and fry until golden brown. Drain the potatoes on a paper towel-line sheet pan. Sprinkle with marjoram, season, and keep warm.

For the beet salad: In large bowl, whisk together the horseradish, olive oil, apple cider vinegar, maple syrup, and parsley. Add the beets and toss well to coat. Season and set aside.

To serve: Invert a timbale mold onto the center of a plate and un-mold. Spoon some potatoes around the timbale. Place some beet salad, watercress, and radish sprouts on top and sprinkle with chives

Riesling, Vieilles Vignes, Cuvee Jean-Baptiste

J.B. Adam

Alsace, France 1998

ingredients


For the head cheese:
Head, shoulders and fore shanks of
a 12-pound suckling pig *
2 onions, peeled and chopped
1 tablespoon black peppercorns
1 tablespoon juniper berries
5 cloves
1 sprig thyme
2 bay leaves
2 sheets gelatin, softened in cold water
Salt and pepper to taste

For the potato crisps:
1 tablespoon pork fat
8 small fingerling potatoes, sliced into thin rounds
2 sprigs marjoram, stemmed and minced
Salt and pepper to taste

For the beet salad:
2 tablespoons horseradish, peeled
  and grated
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar
1 teaspoon maple syrup
1 sprig parsley, stemmed and minced
2 red beets, boiled, peeled, and
thinly sliced
2 golden beets, boiled, peeled, and
thinly sliced
1 candy cane beet, boiled, peeled, and
cut into thin strips (sometimes called
rainbow or striped beets)
Salt and pepper to taste

For the garnish:
Watercress
Radish sprouts
Minced chives

* Available through most specially butchers.

Note: The collagen content of suckling pigs may vary. Test the strength
of the gelatin by chilling a small amount of the reduced cooking liquid
before filling the molds. Add additional gelatin if needed.

Tuna and Scorpion Fish Salad with Agar-Agar (Serves 4)

directions

For the agar agar gelee: In a medium sauce pan, bring the fish consomme to a boil. Add the agar-agar and simmer until dissolved. Remove from the heat and set aside in an ice bath to cool completely. Add the chives and caviar and stir to combine. Transfer to a large, shallow bowl and set aside in the refrigerator until firm. Cut the gelee into small pieces and set aside, keeping chilled.

For the mizuku seaweed: In a large bowl, cover the mizuku with cold water, changing the water occasionally to remove excess salt. Transfer to a separate bowl and set aside. In a medium bowl, whisk together the lemon juice, olive oil, soy sauce, Riesling, sake, dashi, and shallots. Adjust the seasoning with sugar. Add half the lemon vinaigrette to the mizuku, toss to coat, and set aside.

To serve: Spoon some agar-agar gelee onto the center of a plate and arrange some sliced tuna and sliced scorpion fish on top. Arrange some mizuku over the dish and spoon some of the remaining vinaigrette on top. Garnish with Osetra caviar and sea urchin roe.

Blanc de Blanc, Champagne des Millenaires

Charles Heidsieck

Reims, France 1985

ingredients


For the agar-agar gelee:
7 ounces fish consomme
1/4 ounce agar-agar, soaked in
cold water
1 bunch minced chives
5 ounces Osetra caviar
For the mizuku seaweed:
5 ounces mizuku seaweed *
Juice of 1/2 lemon
1 1/2 tablespoons extra
virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon soy sauce
1 1/2 tablespoons Riesling
1 tablespoon sake
3 teaspoons dashi broth
1 small shallot, peeled and minced
Sugar to taste

For the tuna and scorpion fish salad:
5 ounces tuna loin, sliced into
papar thin strips
5 ounces scorpion fish * fillet, skinned
and sliced into paper thin strips

For the garnish:
Sea urchin roe
Osetra caviar

* Available through Taro Fish Company at [phone].