Men's toiletries: here comes the groomed.

WORK, HOME AND LOVE. It's only possible to be happy with two at any one time, according to the old saying. That may be true, but the cosmetics industry is making darn sure that men can look and feel good in all three. Metrosexual may the new buzzword, but the introduction of sophisticated grooming products is really an extension of the hard work that the industry has put in during the past few years. However, the growing sophistication of its target audience has led some companies to adopt the same strategy as the female categories and even to venture into the risky world of color cosmetics.

The results of the last couple of years shows that manufacturers are on the right track. Although growth may be slower than many hoped or expected, sales in the Big 5 have grown everywhere except Germany, which slipped 1.6% in 2003 to $810.6 million (current exchange rates). In contrast, France grew 4% in 2002 to $1.1 billion, and sales in super and hypermarkets were also on the rise in 2003. The Italian market grew roughly 18% to $800 million in 2002, although this rate has been skewed by recalculation of the fragrance category. Spain is notoriously difficult to track as its men's market is not yet clearly defined, but shaving and aftershave product sales rose approximately 8% to $131.9 million. The UK also performed well, growing 4.8% to $964.1 million in 2003.

Skin Care is the Star

The slowdown in growth was due to the relatively slow performance of the selective fragrance category, a high value sector which accounts for greatest portion of each national market. Skin care was the star performer right across the Big 5, with an average penetration rate of 27%, varying from 38% in Germany to 17% in Italy. France was in second place with 32%, then the UK (24%) and Spain (19%).

The allure of skin care drew a number of new players to the market in 2003. Clarins had already made a huge impact with its men's line in late 2002, muscling its way ahead of stalwarts such as Clinique, Aramis and Biotherm and accounting for 5% of sales in its first year. But by September 2003 it had been joined by Lancome. Building on its expertise in the women's skin care market, Lancome has identified eight key differences between men's and women's skin. Men's skin is more oily, has a lower pH, is thicker, slower to age (but once it starts the signs are more obvious), has a higher oxygen flow, more marked and tired eye contours and is, of course, more hairy. Sounds bad? At least men don't get cellulite! That aside, the research led Lancome to develop a plankton, vitamin and triceramide complex called Actiskin to energize, protect and repair the skin. The nine grooming products include two shaving preps, two cleansers and five skin care products.

This month, Shiseido launched its own eponymous men's line, which draws on the company's aromachology research and boasts anti-stress as well as skin caring properties. The range is divided into basic and specialized care products which contain Damage Defense Complex to reinforce the skin's protective layer, boost moisture retention and revitalize dull skin. The problem solving range includes the anti-aging cream Total Revitalizer, Eye Soother and Anti-Shine refresher.

For Men, By Men

While these brands are owned by female-oriented companies, another new entrant to the UK proudly proclaims that it was created by men for men. The Refinery is arguably the best known spa in the UK and has worked with Aromatherapy Associates to develop a skin care and shaving line packed with essential oils and botanical extracts. The skin care lineup comprises mud soap, face wash, face scrub and face mask along with moisturizer, eye gel and body wash, shave foam gel, shave oil and post-shave balm.

This no-nonsense approach to names was also adopted by King of Shaves, which extended its grooming offering in the early summer with XCD. Pronounced "exceed," the range carries the tagline "enhance, camouflage, defend" rather than the more girly "beautify, conceal and protect." The products nonetheless stray into traditionally female territory with Enhancer Self-Tan Facial moisturizer and Improver SPF15 Tinted moisturizer, even though they are positioned as a secret weapon before an important meeting or a night on the town.

Of course, no one went farther in this direction than Jean Paul Gaultier. The enfant terrible of fashion and fragrance introduced a grooming line like no other in September. Tout Beau Tout Propre is described as a set of seduction tools. Alongside conventional soap, shower gel, deodorant and aftershave, there is an illuminator, bronzer, lipstick, lip gloss, eyeliner/concealer and fortifying nail pen.

But even Jean Paul hasn't dared to dip his toe into depilatories. Nair has developed a depilatory cream with a masculine fragrance that strips away unwanted hair with the minimum of effort or irritation. In Italy, Collistar offers Crema Depilatoria Uomo which is said to smooth and hydrate the skin as well as remove hair. Hanorah took the mousse route with its Mousse Depilatoria For Men.

Back in the real world, market leader Nivea says that 29% of men suffer from excess sebum, so it launched an Oil Control range in summer 2003 that is said to soak up excess sebum, wipe away facial shine and clear away dirt. Oil control face wash, shaving gel and moisturizer feature marine plant extracts and a vitamin cocktail.

Coty enlisted the help of athletes to develop its adidas Active Skincare range. The five facial skin care and aftershave products boast high performance formulations, clear packaging information and affordable prices, deliberately undercutting the likes of Nivea. The lineup translates the three aspects of athletes' training--preparation, protection and regeneration--into a regime for stressed-out skin. Preparation is provided by a facial wash gel; aftershaves comprise cooling aftershave gel and protective triple action creme along with outdoor protection SPF25 face stick. After Sport Heat Relief gel contains arnica and menthol to relax and cool down tired muscles for the regenerative phase.

When it comes to shaving, TNS ETCD says that foam is still the dominant format, with average penetration of 31% across the Big 5. However, manufacturers such as Williams/Sara Lee are noticing a definite shift toward gels and formulations that care for the skin as well as remove hair. The Big 5 gel penetration rate averages out at 12%, but in the UK, this rises to 19%, just one percentage point behind foam usage, and France is not far behind with 18%. The other countries record much lower rates, with Italy bringing up the rear with just 3%. The top brands are Gillette, Palmolive, Nivea, Williams and Mermen.

Williams has certainly put its money where its mouth is. The company has recently reformulated, repackaged and relaunched its shaving line, organizing it into six shaving gels, all of which promise additional skin care benefits.

Manly Pursuits in Fragrance

Compared to recent years, 2003 was quiet in terms of fragrance launches. Those that made it onto the market tended to follow a sporty track for younger men. Examples include Coty's Adidas Urban Spice, the Tabac Sport fragrance line from Maurer + Wirtz, s. Oliver Sports and, of course, Aramis Life, promoted and inspired by tennis star Andre Agassi.

However, with the exception of Aramis Life, these fragrances are not necessarily intended or indeed destined for longevity. Elsewhere, there was a perceptible shift towards more adult, sophisticated fragrances, matched by equally grown-up advertising.

Educating Joe Public

This year, Unilever Cosmetics International has unveiled CerrutiSi. Aimed at a slightly younger audience, the oriental fougere is dominated by benzoin and heliotrope, underlined by Mauritian balm. The asymmetric flacon is topped by a wooden cap and the advertising features a smoldering male model from the UK.

Other fragrances have once again drawn inspiration and marketing funds from existing scents. Christian Dior followed up the successful Higher fragrance with Higher Energy, Emporio Armani Night is the third fragrance duo outing from the Italian fashion house (via L'Oreal) and Lancome introduced Miracle Aquatonic.

The heightened activity in the men's market shouldn't encourage manufacturers to feel self-satisfied. Magazine articles and makeover shows may well provide evidence that times are changing, but they may also be preaching to the converted. It's not enough to convince existing enthusiastic consumers to buy more or to trade up, the industry needs to educate Joe Public and bring him to the grooming shelves. Only then will we see the explosion that has been predicted and missed for the last several years.

That said, the big brands are reacting to the potential of the category. With Clarins, Lancome and Shiseido in the frame, it can surely only be a matter of time before the likes of Givenchy and Dior join in. Estee Lauder reportedly has a line in development, which would make sense considering its Clinique and Aramis expertise. Similar rumors surround L'Oreal Paris, which of course already has Biotherm and Lancome under its belt. The coming 12 months are set to be just as interesting as the preceding ones.

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