Melissa Kelly.

Melissa KELLY, Primo--Rockland, Maine.

In the simplified, perfectly lit pages of many periodicals, life at Primo is leisurely. However, for chefs Melissa Kelly and Price Kushner, Primo is a never-ending test of their commitment and love for learning and creating. This dynamic duo of chefs also happen to be engaged. Not only are they admirably dedicated and passionate about food, but as an interactive working couple, they also encompass the yin and yang of executive and pastry chef. Having survived their second year, Kelly and Kushner are still in the kitchen even on their day off. In between ordering, planning menus, orchestrating deliveries, and tending to the little glitches in some of the equipment, they answer the phone or greet a "regular" who stops by to invite the young couple to an impromptu dinner at his house. Kelly politely declines in order to catch up on the never ending responsibilities of being a chef/owner cum jack-of-all-trades.

Since her beginnings as a student, Kelly has seemingly always risen above the rank and file. At the height of her career, Kelly was determined to make the move from celebrity chef to chef/owner. She boldly left The Old Chatham Sheepherding Company, the kitchen that brought her acclaim as one of the top chefs. Kelly found herself in Maine with her partner, Price Kushner. Here, the two have become the proud owners of Primo, based in a 110-year old Victorian home on four acres of near-coastal property. Aficionados and former clients go out of their way to trek one hour north of Portland to savor Primo's menu.

Six months were dedicated to crash courses in carpentry, bricklaying, sanding, plumbing, and electrical wiring, as well as the fine art of organic gardening. Kelly and Kushner tackled the renovations and landscaping themselves, including revitalizing a sizeable apple orchard. Admitting the project has been a challenge, Kelly and Kushner hail the rewards. "The great thing about owning a restaurant is that you work the same hours and have the same responsibilities, but you are also able to make the decisions," Kushner explains. No doubt, their neighbors are more than happy to have them as Rockland residents.

Lobster and Asparagus Risotto with Meyer Lemon (Serves 6)

directions

For the asparagus jus: In a medium saucepan, bring the asparagus stem juice to a simmer. Add the butter and melt. Remove from the heat and strain through a fine mesh sieve. Season and set aside, keeping warm.

For the cheese frico: In a medium bowl, toss together the cheese and flour and set aside. Heat a small, non-stick saute pan over medium heat. Sprinkle some of the cheese mix in the center to form a thin layer and saute until the cheese begins to bubble and turn golden brown, about one minute. Transfer the cheese to a parchment-lined sheet pan. While still warm, roll the cheese around the handle of a wooden spoon and set aside to cool. Repeat to make six more. In a separate bowl, toss together the chives, asparagus spears, olive oil, and lemon juice. Season and fill each cheese frico with some chives and asparagus and set aside.

For the lobster: Cut the lobster tails in half; dice the knuckle and claw meat and set aside.

For the risotto: In a large saucepan, melt two tablespoons of butter and the oil. Add the onion and saute until translucent. Add the garlic and rice; stir to coat. Toast, but do not brown the rice. Add the wine and simmer until almost dry. Add half of the hot stock and bay leaf and simmer, stirring constantly until almost dry. Add the remaining stock in several stages, stirring constantly until the liquid is absorbed, the mixture is creamy, and the rice is still slightly firm. Add the remaining butter, cheese, and the reserved lobster knuckle and claw meat. Fold in the asparagus and Meyer lemon, reserving some for the garnish. Stir until well combined. Remove from the heat and season.

To finish the lobster: In a medium saute pan, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the lobster tails and simmer until warmed through. Remove from the heat, season, and keep warm.

To serve: Spoon some asparagus jus in the center of a soup plate and some risotto in the center. Arrange three lobster tail pieces around the risotto and garnish with sliced asparagus, Meyer lemon peel, and Montasio cheese.

Choblis Les Clos

La Chablisienne

Choblis, France 1996

ingredients


For the asparagus jus:
2 bunches asparagus, spears blanched
and reserved, stems juiced
8 ounces unsalted butter
Salt, pepper, and  cayenne pepper to taste

For the cheese frico:
1 cup finely grated Montasio cheese *
2 teaspoons all-purpose flour
1/2 bunch chives, minced
Reserved asparagus spears
1 teaspoon extra virgin olive oil
Juice of 1/2 lemon
Salt and pepper to taste

For the lobster:
9 1 1/2-pound lobsters, boiled and shelled,
tails intact, knuckles and claws reserved
8 ounces unsalted butter
Salt and pepper to taste

For the risotto:
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 teaspoon extra virgin olive oil
1 small onion, peeled and minced
2 cloves garlic, peeled and minced
1 1/2 cups carnaroli rice **
1/2 cup dry white wine
3 1/2 cups hot vegetable stock, lightly seasoned
1 bay leaf
1 cup grated parmesan cheese
Reserved lobster knuckle and claw meat
Salt and pepper to taste
1 bunch asparagus, blanched and sliced
Minced Meyer lemon peel

For the garnish:
Asparagus slices (reserved from above)
Minced Meyer lemon peel (reserved
from above)
Montasio cheese * shavings

* Montasio cheese is made in the northern province of Friuli-Venezia
Giulia, Italy. It is a rich, aged, cows-milk cheese, with a deep, almost
caramel flavor. Available through Murray's Cheese at [phone].

** Carnaroli rice is one of three varieties of risotto rice grown in
Italy. Carnaroli is considered "super-fino" as it tends to be slightly
longer than the Arborio and Vialone nano varieties. Available through
Buon Italia at [phone].

Steamed Lobster (Serves 6) with Fregola

directions

For the fregola: In a large saute pan, heat the oil. Add the chili

pepper and garlic and saute until tender, but not browned. Add the tomatoes and toss to coat with oil. Add the wine and simmer until almost dry. Add the stock and bring to a boil. Add the artichoke bottoms and cardoons and simmer until tender. Add the butter and whisk until combined. Add the remaining ingredients; simmer until warmed through. Remove from the heat, season, and keep warm.

To serve: Spoon equal amounts of fregola into soup bowls and garnish with parsley.

Chardonnay

Girard Winery

Napa Valley, California 1997

ingredients


For the fregola:
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1/4 teaspoon crushed red chili pepper
1 clove garlic, peeled, seeded and minced
3 plum tomatoes, peeled, seeded and diced
1/2 cup dry white wine
2 cups lobster stock
6 artichoke bottoms, blanched in acidulated water
2 ribs of cardoons *, cut into 3 pieces each,
 blanched in acidulated water
4 ounces unsalted butter
1/2 cup cooked fregola **
3 1 1/2-pound lobsters, steamed, shelled, and
 cut into a large dice
2 teaspoons drained capers
1 head puntarelle ***
1/4 bunch basil, julienned
1/4 bunch parsley, julienned
Salt and pepper to taste

For the garnish:
Parsley sprigs

* Cardoons, though similar in appearance to celery, have a flavor
similar to salsify.

** Fregola is a specialty of Sardinia. When prepared fresh, fregola is
made by rubbing and baking couscous with a mix of saffron, egg, and
water to form large grains. These are sold as fregola, fregula, fregole,
or Italian couscous. Cooked like pasta, it is available from Sid Wainer
& Son at [phone].

*** Puntarelle is a type of bitter chicory green, which grows wild in
the Italian countryside. Chicory is suitable substitute.