Meet me in Mammoth.

Plumes of powder fan out into the alpine air as skiers and snowboarders cut down steep slopes. Bundled-up hot-doggers shuffle impatiently in lift lines exchanging tall tales of joy and terror. Rainbow-colored skis stack up like organ pipes outside lodgepole cabins. And after a fierce day on the slopes, red-cheeked, smiling faces hunker over a hot cider by the fireplace.

These are familiar images of Mammoth, California's finest ski resort that ranks right next to Vail, Aspen, and Breckenridge in recent top ten lists of Western winter destinations. Almost 1 million visitors hit the snow-laden slopes here in the average November to June season. But Mammoth is no one-dimensional ski haven. Its mostly sunny skies, breathtaking alpine scenery, fine dining, special events, and slew of outdoor activities also make the town an appealing year-round setting for meetings, executive retreats, small conferences, and incentive programs.

Wedged into the Eastern Sierra mountain range, Mammoth Lakes (the town's official name) began as an outpost for hardy miners and ranchers more than 100 years ago. It now has a permanent population of 5,000 -- many of them former Angelenos -- that easily snowballs up to 35,000 on busy weekends, summer or winter. It's a rare combination of affordability, accessibility and natural beauty that explains Mammoth's appeal. Visitor satisfaction, according to a survey conducted by the Florida-based research firm of Klages and Associates, is extremely high. Almost 90% of respondents ranked the resort at or near the "excellent" mark.

Here's the low-down on why:

ACCESSIBILITY

Nine of out ten visitors to Mammoth arrive here by personal car. From Los Angeles, Highway 395 edges its way north just east of Sequoia National Forest and Kings Canyon National Park. The snow-frosted crown of Mt. Whitney at 14,494 feet the tallest mountain in the contiguous United States makes for a spectacular scenic interlude on this six-hour, 300-mile drive.

If cutting down on travel time is of the essence -- fly. TransWorld Express (800-221-2000), formerly Alpha Air, just celebrated its 10th year of service to Mammoth Lakes. The airline offers daily flights from LAX, Burbank, and Orange County. The flight aboard their 19-passenger Beechcraft 1900 twin jets gets you to Mammoth in just over one hour at costs beginning at $139 Round Trip from LAX and Burbank, $145 Round Trip from Orange County.

CLIMATE

In summer, temperatures average 80 degrees for a high and rarely dip below 40 |degrees~. Winter temperatures range from 40 |degrees~ to 10 |degrees~, with blue skies most of the time. Based on figures compiled over more than 20 years, snowfall at Mammoth Mountain Ski Area is 314 inches per year. There have been only two years during which snowfall has been under 100 inches or over 500 inches. The average ski season lasts from November to June.

FACILITIES

Right at the foot of Mammoth Mountain, across from the Main Lodge, you'll find the rustic Mammoth Mountain Inn (800-934-0700). A premier hotel and shining star among the town's meeting facilities, it couples a warm, welcoming ambience with a high degree of expertise and hospitality.

The Inn can accommodate groups from 10 to 200 in five rooms. Choose from the Dry Creek Lounge which offers a lovely view of Mammoth Mountain; the Yodler, an original Swiss chalet brought across the Atlantic piece by piece and reassembled here; the Sierra Room, a dedicated meeting facility; the Fireplace Lounge for smaller gatherings where stained glass windows, a crackling fireplace and a redwood bar combine to create a cozy atmosphere; and the Mountainside Grill which doubles as the hotel's regular dining room. An extensive assortment of projection, video and audio equipment is available as well as standard accessories and supplies such as flip charts and dry erase boards. Rates include airport shuttle service.

Smaller groups also may want to consider the Shilo Inn (800-222-2244), the first hotel built on Main Street and centrally located adjacent to a sprawling shopping area. The Shilo is famous for its indoor spa facilities, including a lap pool, sauna, steamroom, Jacuzzi and exercise room. A limited selection of audio/visual equipment (TV, VCR, screens, overhead and slide projector, charts, etc.) can be provided.

Several other hotels in Mammoth Lakes can accommodate small groups. For a list and detailed information, please contact the Mammoth Lakes Visitors Bureau at [phone].

CULINARY DELIGHTS

There are more than 50 restaurants catering to every taste and budget. A popular locals' hangout is Sloakum's right on Main Street in the heart of town. It is nicknamed the "Main Street Office" because many a deal is signed at one of its sturdy oak tables. Most nights, the bar hums with chatter and laughter while the quiet back room provides an elegant setting for diners.

A great place for kicking back is Grumpy's, a rowdy sports bar replete with large-screen TV, blaring music, and pool table. Frequented by a young crowd, the place is dark, loud and hip, and the menu is big on burgers, sandwiches and salads.

On the other end of the dining spectrum you'll find the Whiskey Creek. This upscale restaurant is abuzz almost every night during peak season. Reservations are highly recommended and downright necessary on weekends. For scrumptious morning fare, visit the Breakfast Club. Their omelets will load you up on enough carbos and proteins to help you face the demands of the day, be they slopes, trails, or flip charts. The huevos rancheros piled high with beans, jack cheese, tomatoes, and topped with two perfectly fried eggs are highly recommended, too. THINGS TO DO: SUMMER

There's no shortage of leisure activities once the work is done and it's time to clear those brains of facts, figures, and concepts. Two wilderness areas, a national monument, a chain of pristine alpine lakes, and one of the largest national forests in the U.S. vie for your attention. Visit Devil's Postpile, a unique construction of nature where, over 100,000 years ago, hot lava cooled into geometric 60-foot columns of basaltic rock. Or check out the view from the Minarets, a ragged range of pinnacles high above the San Joaquin River. A dip into the bubbling natural Jacuzzi at Hot Creek, though not officially recommended, makes for a soothing respite.

By far the most popular summer activity is hiking. Almost three-fourth of all visitors take advantage of hundreds of miles of trails, groomed to wild, easy to strenuous that crisscross the Sierra scenery. The trout populating lakes Crowley, Mary and many more in Mammoth's vicinity make the area near-legendary among fishermen. Almost half of all visitors engage in fly fishing, spin casting or trolling during the April to October season. At about 20%, mountain biking clocks in a distant third, but devout followers of this sport praise the scenic trails through Mammoth Mountain Bike Park. Other activities include horseback riding, gondola hiking, water-skiing, hay rides, in-line skating, rock-climbing and golf (Bishop Country Club and Snowcreek Golf Course). THINGS TO DO: WINTER

Slopes, bowls, chutes, trails, and tree runs, naturally, downhill skiing is Mammoth's greatest winter draw. Here's the hard data: 30 lifts; 150 trails; 3,500 acres of skiable terrain with 30% beginner, 40% intermediate, and 30% advanced; longest run: 2.5 miles. A free shuttle connects the ski area with the town. But the fun doesn't stop there. Not feeling athletic enough for downhill? Try cross-country skiing, an unintimidating sport that will let you savor the tranquility of a snow-blanketed forest while peacefully gliding along treelined tracks. A popular destination in the Mammoth Lakes Basin is the Lake Mary Cafe at about 3 1/2 miles from the Tamarack Lodge base. Thaw yourself out with a warm drink before tackling the way back to the lodge past windswept snow dunes and meadows.

The hottest new winter sport, though, is snowmobiling. A cross between motorbike and toboggan, these vehicles cut through the snow at blistering speeds. After heavy snowfall which leaves many picturesque locales cut off from car traffic, an exhilarating ride on the snowmobile may offer the only access to remote lakes, steaming hot creeks, and lookouts.

Adventure travel of a different kind is by dogsled, a lovely way to enjoy the serene winterscape. Guided by a "musher" who, balanced on the back of the sled, shouts commands to Siberian huskies and malamutes, you will enjoy a gentle ride past snow- laden trees and frozen lakes. Moonlit rides to a candle-light dinner make for perfect romantic interludes.

ADVENTURES BEYOND

As if there wasn't enough to do in Mammoth, the town is also the perfect base camp for excursions to nearby major attractions. Yosemite National Park with majestic Half Dome and El Capitan awaits after a quick one-hour trip over Tioga Pass (not passable during winter). Mono Lake, where bizarre tufa cones rise from the salinated water, also doubles as a bird sanctuary and can be reached in a half hour.

For a trip back into the last century and the heyday of the Gold Rush, you won't want to miss the Ghost Town of Bodie. About 150 structures have survived in a state of "arrested decay," offering insight into the way of life of the old-time miners. Peering through dusty, cracked windows, you can still see beds, tables, kitchen furniture and gadgets left behind by Bodie's former dwellers. There's also a museum, and guided tours are available daily.

For further information on Mammoth, call Mammoth Lakes Visitors Bureau: [phone]; Mammoth Mountain Ski Area: [phone]; Ski Report: [phone]; National Forest Visitor Center: [phone]; Road Conditions Information: [phone].