Maui.

"We're the most isolated people in the world. You look on the map,
Maui's just a little dot."
--Perry Bateman, Executive Chef, Mama's Fish House

Maui may be just a relative speck in the ocean, but about fifteen years ago, it was the geographic jumping-off point for one of the most prescient food revolutions in the United States; today, it is a breeding ground for cross-cultural culinary innovation.

At the beginning of the 1990's, Maui-based chef Peter Merriman invited eleven like-minded chefs to spend a long weekend in a hotel on the island. His purpose? To start spreading the truth about what had been, up to that point, an invisible cuisine.

"I had no idea what to expect, and neither did Peter, but he knew that the twelve of us had the same goal of serving great fresh food," says Mark Ellman, one of the original dozen who came to be known as the Hawaii Regional Cuisine (HRC) chefs. At that time, Ellman was executive chef and owner of Avalon, serving Asian-influenced Pacific Rim food. "The rest of Hawaii seemed stuck in this rut of cooking great big steamship rounds of beef and frozen mahi mahi. That wasn't part of our vision." In the 1970's and 80's, Hawaiian cuisine (or at least that which was fed to well-heeled visitors) was largely the domain of older European chefs, whose militaristic leadership and peerless grasp of technique provided a necessary counterpoint to the laid-back Maui labor force. Very few of the island's cooks had completed any formal culinary training, and, as one long-time Maui waiter put it, "If the surf's up, people don't show up for work."

James McDonald, chef and co-owner of Pacific'o, I'o and the Feast at Lele, all in Lahaina, recalls being part of a European-style apprenticeship program at the Westin Maui. He was one of the first cooks to complete the program, which he found to be "... the greatest teaching of all, learning everything about every aspect of the hotel," but also notes that the European chefs in charge were "... very meticulous and traditional, like horses with blinders on."

Merriman, Ellman and the other HRC chefs sought to earn respect--and create a market--for the foodstuffs and traditions of Hawaii. Taro root, sweet potatoes, breadfruit, rambutan, lychee, mango, papaya, guava, ginger and macadamia nuts have sustained native Hawaiians for centuries, as have several species of tuna, marlin, spearfish, snapper, pomfret and grouper. The labor-intensive sugarcane industry flourished between 1850 and 1930, drawing scores of immigrants from China, Portugal, Japan, Korea and the Philippines, each group contributing to the Hawaiian culinary lexicon. With the help of Hawaii's Department of Agriculture, the HRC chefs got the word out about the abundance and beauty of local fish, fruit and vegetables, and about the indigenous preparations and culinary concepts that they felt deserved to move to the center of the plate. The HRC chefs targeted tourists, fellow independent chef-owners, and hotel executives; the latter, says Ellman, proved the most difficult to persuade. "They were pretty set in their ways in terms of what types of ingredients they'd buy," he recalls. "It was always, 'Oh, that's way too ethnic for us!' Whereas the way we saw it, it was, 'The more ethnic, the better.' We wanted to let consumers know that they had a choice, and once they figured that out, they left the old style tables, and came to our tables. It was just a matter of getting people to look in their own backyards."

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Over the next few years, the HRC movement picked up momentum. The chefs cooked as a group at the James Beard House, helped host a symposium for Oldways, the food issues think tank, caught the attention of the local and national press, and convinced ever-greater numbers of Hawaiian chefs to start looking locally for ingredients, techniques and inspiration. Now, says Ellman, "It's hard to find a restaurant in Hawaii, especially on Maui, whose menu doesn't reflect some influence [of the HRC movement]. I think we were instrumental in pushing the ball to the top of the hill, and ever since, gravity has kept it going. In fact, one of the reasons that none of [the original group] are too involved at this point is because we're all so damn busy!" In 1993, Ellman established Maui Tacos, a fast-food concept combining traditional Mexican food with Hawaiian-influenced seafood preparations, tropical fruit salsas and broad strokes of the surf culture that thrives on Maui. His first store was in Napili; the company now includes 45 stores, including several on the Mainland, which are franchised by Blimpie International. In addition, Ellman, who sold Avalon in 1995, now owns and operates Mala Ocean Tavern and Penne Pasta Cafe, both in Lahaina.

In 2003, the state of Hawaii invested $17 million in a brand new facility for Maui Community College's ACF-accredited food service program, which was consequently re-named Maui Culinary Academy (MCA). "It's the state's commitment to tourism, to provide trained culinary workers to fill the [jobs] here," says Bobby Santos, program director for the Academy. "Maui has been named among the best islands in the world [by Travel + Leisure], and the state wants to make sure that we have the work force to keep it going at a high level." Santos says that the HRC movement "brought a lot of excitement to the local kids, who could now aspire to be like Sam Choy or Alan Wong ... it elevated the whole concept of being a chef and working in restaurants. It gave students the idea that you didn't have to be from the Mainland to get to the top level in a kitchen." In the years since the HRC chefs made their mark, MCA has attracted students from Argentina, Brazil, Japan, Macau, Mexico, Sweden and the Mainland. The school's ACF accreditation dictates that the curriculum be classically-based, but Santos says that his students also benefit from being on Maui. "Traditional cookery in America is based on European traditional methods, and I think they're the backbone of good culinary technique. Of course, you can use a kalua pig recipe to teach moist heat cooking, just as [Mainland] instructors might use pot roast." Santos says that the student chefs work with as much local fish and produce as possible, and that one of the school's food court outlets, Farm to Table, features local products.

"My dad was basically a pig and cattle farmer who worked for the plantations, and I struggled through high school and college," says Santos, a Maui native and CIA graduate who uses his own story to inspire the island's youth. "I tell [kids] that, growing up in Hawaii, they already have an advantage in the kitchen. They have a taste for the ingredients that are popular now in fusion cuisine--soy sauce, fresh ginger, bitter melon, sesame oil, fish sauce, miso, lemongrass ... I cannot tell you how many restaurants, chefs and human resources departments call us every day to recruit our students. Culinary students from Maui make excellent chefs."

MINDING MAMA

PERRY BATEMAN

Mama's Fish House

Kuau, Maui, Hawaii

Maui native Perry Bateman has cooked at Mama's Fish House for nearly half of his life. He started in the pantry at the age of 19, eventually moving to the hot line and later, a sous chef position; ten years later, owners Floyd and Doris ("Mama") Christenson asked him to take over the lead role in their restaurant's massive kitchen.

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"It was on the day that my wife was having our second baby. I was in the hospital and they called to offer me the job. When they first asked, I said 'No, I'm too young to be doing all that stuff,' but they really had confidence in me and insisted. I thank them to this day for it, because they made me bloom," says Bateman, now the father of three girls.

He grew up steeped in restaurant culture, with a grandfather who owned and operated two Chinese restaurants on Maui and an aunt who owned and operated a Hawaiian restaurant, also on the island. As a child with working parents, he quickly learned to cook chili, pot roast and spaghetti for himself and his younger siblings. Bateman's stepfather was executive chef and general manager of Lahaina Broiler, and he took the time to teach his stepson the basics of running a restaurant kitchen.

"He was my pops, you know, he was just awesome," says Bateman. "I was going to go to culinary school, but he said 'Don't spend your money, I'll teach you everything you need to know.' He gave me all of his books, taught me the five mother sauces, all the techniques, all about sanitation. He showed me how lucky we are in Hawaii, because we've got influences from the Chinese, Japanese, Tahitian, Portuguese, Filipino, Thai, all these ethnic styles that they won't teach you in cooking school. They're not gonna teach you how to wrap the laulau in cooking school, you know?"

He spent his teenage years cooking at Lahaina Broiler, Buzz's Wharf, Kula Lodge and even McDonald's before settling in at Mama's, where he now oversees the production of some 300 lunches and up to 500 dinners daily. Seafood is obviously the specialty of the house, and Mama's employs three full-time fabricators to break down the hundreds of pounds of fish that arrive each day. The restaurant buys fish directly from local fishermen, supplementing with shellfish from the Big Island and, from Kauai, Threadfin fish, or moi.

"This is kind of brutal," he says, "but back when Hawaii was its own nation, and there were kings and queens, anyone other than the royalty who dared to eat moi was killed. Can you believe that was just over a hundred years ago? It is an awesome fish. It's delicate and sweet. You just cook it and don't even need to put any sauce on it. Just steam it, season it with salt. You put anything else on it and you ruin it. We're lucky now, because it's being farm-raised, and everybody can have it." Asked about the environmental impact of fish farming off Maui's coast, he says, "Being out in the middle of the blue like Maui is, the currents are unreal. The water is very pure and clean because the currents are always moving it around. The fish farmers have a good handle on it. And it's a lot better than overfishing."

Bateman believes in the power of filling a kitchen with career-oriented cooks. "When it's just pumping in the kitchen and the stress is on and the whole thing is going off, the career guys have a higher breaking point. They can handle the stress and still want to make perfect plates. I'd say half the cooks in here were interns who stayed or came back after graduation. Seventy-five percent of my staff has gone to school, and here's their fearless leader who hasn't, but it's OK, because I was raised in restaurants, I'm good with money, and I love food and wine."

HANA HIGH

JOHN COX

Hotel Hana Maui

Hana, Maui, Hawaii

Many chefs have chosen culinary school or on-the-job training over college, but John Cox, corporate executive chef at the Hotel Hana Maui, chose cooking over high school. A native of Los Alamos, New Mexico, whose musician father and schoolteacher mother are "pretty open-minded," Cox left high school as a freshman.

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"I wasn't a big fan of public school. [After I left] I mostly read philosophy books and classic books, preparing myself to go to college," explains Cox, who had planned to attend St. John's University but eventually earned a GED. "I'd always had odd jobs--I was a bike mechanic, and then I had an apprenticeship with a guy who worked on aircraft. One day I put away all the bike and aircraft equipment and moved into the kitchen." At the Blue Window Bistro, in Los Alamos, the chef, Bill Oschwald, allowed the inexperienced Cox to write specials and run wild with the dessert menu. "Fortunately, there were not that many ambitious people around, so the chef really had open arms for somebody who was interested in learning," he says. "At that time I got my first copies of The French Laundry Cookbook and The Inn at Little Washington Cookbook. On weekends I would pick out recipes and duplicate them the best that I could with the ingredients that we had. Being allowed that freedom was what ignited my desire to become a chef."

Cox enrolled at the New England Culinary Institute (NECI), which he chose for its hands-on approach, and for the beauty of the Montpelier, Vermont surroundings. It was at NECI that he met David Patterson, his current executive chef at Hotel Hana Maui, and Lucy Damkoehler, the hotel's pastry chef. He externed at Abacus, in Dallas, under chef Kent Rathbun, an experience that he says "... allowed me to see ethnic cuisine at the extreme of fine dining." Cox adds that executive sous chef Aaron Staudenmaier was also instrumental in shaping him as a chef. "He was very young, but he commanded respect, and knew how to run a very efficient kitchen. He taught me about professionalism, how to keep your station and uniform clean and your knives sharp."

Right after graduation, Cox took a job at Sierra Mar, the fine dining restaurant for the Post Ranch Inn in Big Sur, California, which is a sister property to the Hotel Hana Maui. At Post Ranch, Cox became acquainted with the nightly changing menu, an approach that he has wholeheartedly embraced in Hana. "I think it's a skill that's really being lost," adds Cox. "Now that we have the resources to get anything, anytime, anywhere, there's no real drive to use the things that are right at your back door. That's my motivation for doing it." Does he ever feel that he's just changing the menu for the sake of changing it, or that a best-selling dish shouldn't be sacrificed to the format?

"It's easy after the first couple of days to let that stuff go," he says, "although I don't think it's practical for an a la carte restaurant. I mean, Chez Panisse does it with huge success, and The Herbfarm does it really well, but for most [a la carte] restaurants, when you're getting into intricate platings and large brigades, it's impossible to coordinate." Cox explains that the approach is necessary for an isolated resort like the Hotel Hana Maui, where its three dining outlets are the only game in town, and where guests routinely stay for weeks or even months at a time. "The French Laundry, for example, is an absolutely incredible dining experience, but I wouldn't want to eat there for a week straight," notes Cox.

Since arriving in Hana, Cox has made big changes in the way products are procured. He recalls entering the kitchen to prepare for his job interview and finding "... tons of mainland produce. Strawberries from Gilroy [California]! I couldn't afford strawberries from Gilroy when I was working in Big Sur, which was only an hour away, so I knew they must have cost a ton. Most of the local fishermen had given up on the hotel because of problems getting paid, so all of our fish was being caught in Hana, shipped to the other side of the island, then going to a wholesaler who would resell it to us. It was a horrible system." Cox and a colleague spent time driving around the island in search of farmers and farm stands, in time building a steady network of local growers and fishermen (who are now paid in cash) to supply Cox's kitchen. He laments the fact that so little produce is commercially grown on Maui, thanks to sky-high real estate values that make farming, save for coffee plantations, almost an economic impossibility.

"Our best farmer has less than an acre, and he grows celeriac, beets, cinnamon and cacao pods. We don't tell anybody who or where he is, because he doesn't have enough for us, let alone anyone else," says Cox. "Setting up these relationships and coordinating pickups is logistically more difficult than ordering from wholesalers who deliver, but it's worth it. We need to support our community, the landscape and the local economy."

RELATED ARTICLE: Ahi Poke (Serves 4)

PERRY BATEMAN

Rose

Sola Rosa Wines

St. Helena, California 2003

directions

For the nori spice: Place nori, wontons, nuts and togarashi in food processor fitted with metal blade. Process until finely chopped. Transfer to bowl, stir in sesame seeds and set aside at room temperature.

For the tapioca bowls: Heat oil in deep-fryer or tall-sided pot to 350 degrees. Place one paper in oil and, using a 6-ounce ladle, press down on center of paper to form bowl. Cook two minutes, remove from oil and drain on paper towels. Sprinkle with nori spice. Repeat with remaining papers. Set aside.

For the ahi poke: In bowl, toss together all ingredients except cabbage. Place tapioca bowl in shallow bowl. Transfer cabbage to bowl, top with poke and garnish with ogo and nuts. Serve immediately.

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ingredients

For the nori spice:

4 sheets nori
1 cup crushed crispy wonton skins
2 tablespoons ground, roasted kukui nuts
2 tablespoons togarashi*
2 tablespoons toasted white sesame seeds

For the tapioca bowls:

1/2 gallon canola oil
4 sheets tapioca paper**
Nori spice, from above

For the ahi poke:

8 ounces sashimi grade ahi tuna fillet, cut into 1-inch pieces
1/2 cup soy sauce
1 tablespoon sesame oil
2 small Hawaiian chilis, finely chopped
1 tomato, seeded, cored and julienned
1 Maui onion, peeled and julienned
2 green onions, thinly sliced
4 ounces shredded napa cabbage

For the garnish:

Coarsely chopped ogo seaweed
Roasted kukui nuts, ground

*Spice blend with chilis, orange peel, seaweed, ginger, sesame and poppy seeds. Available through Pacific Rim Gourmet, [phone] or www.pacificrimgourmet.com.

**Paper made from tapioca starch; may substitute rice paper.

RELATED ARTICLE: Pulehu Opihi and Crispy Onaga Cheek (Serves 4)

PERRY BATEMAN

Champagne

Piper-Heidsieck

Reims, France NV

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directions

For the Hawaiian chili water: In saucepan, bring water to boil. Add remaining ingredients, remove from heat and season with salt. Cover and refrigerate overnight.

For the passionfruit dressing: Combine oil, pulp and honey in bowl. Season with salt and pepper, cover and refrigerate until ready to use.

For the onaga collar: In deep-fryer or tall-sided pot, heat oil to 350 degrees. Season collar with salt and pepper, dredge in flour and fry until golden. Drain on paper towels and season with remaining ingredients.

For the opihi: Arrange red salt on plate. Preheat grill or grill pan. Sprinkle remaining ingredients over opihi and place opihi, shell side down, on grill. Cook until liquid in shells simmers. Remove from grill, keeping sauce in shell, and place on salt.

To serve: Place collar on plate. In bowl, toss micro greens with passionfruit dressing and arrange next to opihi and collar. Garnish with fruit and serve.

ingredients

For the Hawaiian chili water:

1 pint filtered water
1/2 cup rice vinegar
10 Hawaiian chilis
1 teaspoon peeled and finely chopped garlic
1 teaspoon peeled and freshly grated ginger
1 teaspoon finely chopped lemongrass
Hawaiian red salt to taste*

For the passionfruit dressing:

6 tablespoons canola oil
2 tablespoons passionfruit pulp
2 teaspoons honey
Salt and pepper to taste

For the onaga collar:

1 quart canola oil
4 pieces onaga collar with cheek, scaled and rinsed**
1 cup all-purpose flour
Soy sauce to taste
Lemon juice to taste
Lime juice to taste
Hawaiian chili water to taste, from above
Salt and pepper to taste

For the opihi:

4 cups coarse Hawaiian red salt*
24 fresh opihi, rinsed***
Soy sauce to taste
Hawaiian chili water to taste, from above
Lemon juice to taste
 2 tablespoons peeled and finely chopped Maui onions
 2 tablespoons finely chopped green onions
 2 tablespoons finely chopped red bell pepper

To serve:

2 cups micro greens
Passionfruit dressing, from above

For the garnish:

Tropical fruit

*Available through Saltworks[TM], [phone] or www.saltworks.us.

**Hawaiian red snapper.

***Limpet snails harvested from the rocky shorelines of Hawaii.

RELATED ARTICLE: Trio of Wild Fish (Serves 4)

PERRY BATEMAN

Rose Ranch Cuvee

Tedeschi Vineyards

Maui, Hawaii NV

directions

For the lemon and herb aioli: Place yolk in bowl and slowly whisk in oil to emulsify. Add remaining ingredients, season with salt and refrigerate.

For the wasabi beurre blanc: In saucepan, heat oil over medium heat and add garlic, ginger and onions. Cook one minute, stir in wine and vinegar and reduce by half. Add cream and reduce by half. Whisk in butter, 1/2 tablespoon at a time, add wasabi, season with salt and set aside.

For the ahi: Combine sesame seeds in shallow dish. Season ahi with salt and roll in sesame seeds. Heat cast iron skillet over high heat until smoking. Sear ahi for several seconds on each side, remove from skillet and cut into 1/4-inch thick slices.

To serve: Place avocado half on plate. In bowl, combine ehu and aioli, spoon onto avocado half and garnish with sevruga caviar and sweet potato crisps. Spoon small amount of beurre blanc onto plate, and top with ahi and micro greens. Transfer cabbage to plate, arrange kamanu on top and sprinkle with caviar. Serve immediately.

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ingredients

For the lemon and herb aioli:

1 egg yolk
1 cup canola oil
Juice and zest of 1/2 lemon
Pinch of finely chopped dill
Pinch of finely chopped basil
Pinch of finely chopped tarragon
Sea salt to taste

For the wasabi beurre blanc:

1/4 cup canola oil
2 cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped
1 tablespoon peeled and finely chopped ginger
1 tablespoon peeled and finely chopped Maui onion
1/2 cup white wine
2 tablespoons rice vinegar
1/2 cup heavy cream
1/4 cup butter, chilled
2 tablespoons wasabi paste
Sea salt to taste

For the ahi:

1/4 cup white sesame seeds
1/4 cup black sesame seeds
4 ounces sashimi grade ahi fillet
Sea salt to taste

To serve:

2 edible-skin avocados, halved lengthwise and pitted
4 ounces ehu fillet*, skinned and coarsely chopped
1 tablespoon lemon and herb aioli, from above
Wasabi beurre blanc, from above
Ahi, from above
1/2 cup shredded napa cabbage
4 ounces kamanu fillet, thinly sliced**

For the garnish:

Smoked sevruga caviar
Molokai purple sweet potato crisps
Micro greens
Red tobikko caviar

*Hawaiian orange snapper.

**Hawaiian name for rainbow runner, a deep-sea game fish.

RELATED ARTICLE: Opakapaka and Ahi Sashimi Salad with Wasabi Goat Cheese (Serves 4)

PERRY BATEMAN

Cortese di Gavi

Principessa Gavia

Piedmont, Italy 2003

directions

For the dressing: In bowl, combine all ingredients and whisk until combined. Set aside.

For the wasabi goat cheese: Crumble goat cheese in bowl, add wasabi and stir to combine. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use.

For the salad: Heat oil in medium saucepan to 350 degrees. Deep-fry sweet potatoes until crisp and drain on paper towels. When cool, place in bowl with remaining ingredients. Add dressing and toss gently.

To serve: Transfer salad to plate, crumble goat cheese over salad, sprinkle with wasabi and serve.

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ingredients

For the roasted sesame-ginger dressing:

1 cup canola oil
1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil
1/2 cup cider vinegar
6 tablespoons honey
1 tablespoon freshly grated Hana ginger
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1/4 cup white sesame seeds, toasted
1 tablespoon black sesame seeds
1/2 teaspoon salt
Freshly ground white pepper to taste

For the wasabi goat cheese:

4 ounces soft goat cheese
1 tablespoon freshly grated wasabi

For the salad:

1 quart canola oil
1/2 peeled and julienned Molokai purple sweet potato
1/2 peeled and julienned Molokai orange sweet potato
1/4 pound pohole fern, blanched and shocked in ice water
2 ounces coarsely chopped ogo seaweed
2 ounces shredded napa cabbage
1 carrot, peeled and julienned
4 ounces julienned snap peas
2 green onions, julienned
6 ounces sashimi grade ahi fillet, thinly sliced
6 ounces opakapaka fillet, thinly sliced*

For the garnish:

Freshly grated wasabi

*Hawaiian pink snapper.

RELATED ARTICLE: Hana Breadfruit with Grilled Monchong (Serves 4)

PERRY BATEMAN

Viognier

Pride Mountain Vineyards

Sonoma, CA 2002

directions

For the breadfruit: Preheat oven to 350 degrees and roast breadfruit until soft. Cut into 1-inch pieces, sprinkle with sugar, dot with butter and season with salt. Keep warm.

For the monchong: Preheat grill or grill pan. Thread monchong on skewers and drizzle with oil. Rub paste onto monchong, sprinkle with lime leaves, season with salt and grill until just cooked through.

To serve: Place four pieces of breadfruit on plate. Pour coconut milk over, then garnish with black pepper, bell pepper, green onions and parsley. Remove monchong from skewers, arrange around breadfruit and serve.

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ingredients

For the breadfruit:

1 ripe breadfruit
1/4 cup brown sugar
2 tablespoons butter
Hawaiian red salt to taste*

For the monchong:

 8 ounces monchong, cut into 1/2-ounce pieces**
16 palm skewers
 2 tablespoons ginger-infused peanut oil
 1 tablespoon sambal chili paste
 4 Kaffir lime leaves, finely chopped
Sea salt to taste

For the garnish:

Warm coconut milk
Freshly ground black pepper
Small red bell pepper, diced
Thinly sliced green onions
Finely chopped parsley

*Available through Saltworks[TM], [phone] or www.saltworks.us.

**Hawaiian pomfret.

RELATED ARTICLE: Whole Crispy Onaga with Banana Lomi and Kalua Pig (Serves 4)

PERRY BATEMAN

Chardonnay

Matanzas Creek Winery

Sonoma Creek, CA 2002

directions

For the kalua pig: Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Make several slits in pork and rub all over with salt. Wrap pork in banana and ti leaves, tying with butcher's twine to keep leaves intact. Place pork in baking dish and add water. Cover dish with foil and crimp tightly to seal. Bake five to six hours. Remove from oven, let cool slightly, then shred meat using bone. Reserve 8 ounces and refrigerate remainder for another use.

For the banana lomi: In bowl, combine all ingredients, toss to combine, cover and refrigerate until ready to use.

For the onaga: In wok, heat oil to 375 degrees. In shallow dish, combine flour and cornstarch. Score onaga, season with salt and pepper, and dredge in flour mixture. Fry onaga until crispy, drain on paper towels and sprinkle with soy sauce. Repeat with remaining onaga.

To finish: Heat oil in saute pan over medium-high heat. Add onions and cook one minute. Stir in pig, then top with green cabbage, bok choy and napa cabbage. Cover, lower heat and let cook three minutes. Uncover, stir to combine and remove from heat. Season with salt and pepper and keep warm. Fill banana flower leaf with banana lomi, fill cabbage leaf with kalua pig mixture and place on platter. Place onaga on platter and serve immediately.

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ingredients

For the kalua pig:

1 5-pound pork butt or Boston shoulder roast
4 medium banana leaves
4 medium ti leaves*
1 1/2 cups water
1 6-inch pig bone, boiled**
Hawaiian red salt to taste***

For the banana lomi:

4 bananas, peeled and coarsely chopped
1/2 Maui onion, peeled and finely chopped
1 small Hawaiian chili, finely chopped
2 tablespoons finely chopped cilantro leaves
1 teaspoon honey
Juice of 1 lime
Sea salt to taste

For the onaga:

2 quarts peanut oil
1 cup all-purpose flour
1 cup cornstarch
2 whole onaga, cleaned and scaled****
Soy sauce to taste
Sea salt and pepper to taste

To finish:

2 tablespoons canola oil
1 Maui onion, peeled and finely chopped
8 ounces shredded kalua pig, from above
2 ounces shredded green cabbage
2 ounces coarsely chopped baby bok choy
2 ounces shredded napa cabbage
2 banana flower leaves
2 small cabbage leaves
Salt and pepper to taste

*Leaf of ti plant (Cordyline terminalis) that is used for roof thatching, footwear, medicine, as a sugarcane substitute, distilled into an alcoholic beverage, and used to wrap foods for steaming. Available through Tropical Gardens of Maui, [phone] or www.tropicalgardensofmaui.com.

**Traditionally, a bone from a whole roasted pig is used to shred the meat. May substitute fork.

***Available through Saltworks[TM], [phone] or www.saltworks.us.

****Hawaiian red snapper.

RELATED ARTICLE: Hana-Caught Ahi Tuna (Serves 4)

JOHN COX

Pinot Noir "Los Carneros"

Robert Sinskey Vineyards

Napa Valley, California 1998

directions

For the Pinot Noir reduction: In saucepan over high heat, cook bacon, onions and apples until tender. Add stock and wine, bring to boil and reduce until mixture coats back of wooden spoon. Stir in herbs and butter and season with salt and pepper. Strain through fine-mesh sieve and set aside at room temperature.

For the toro tartare: In bowl, combine toro with chives, horseradish, zest and oil. Season with salt, cover and refrigerate until ready to use.

For the celery root remoulade: Put all ingredients in bowl, toss to combine, cover and refrigerate until ready to use.

To finish: On clean work surface, combine salt and pepper. Press one side of each 2 1/2-ounce ahi fillet in pepper mixture. In saute pan, heat two tablespoons oil over high heat and sear fillets briefly, seasoned side down, until lightly browned. Remove from pan and set aside. In separate saute pan, heat remaining oil over high heat and cook chives until soft enough to bend. Remove and drain on paper towels. Place pounded ahi pieces on work surface and divide toro among them. Carefully bring up sides of each to form purse and tie closed with chives. Spoon reduction and creme fraiche around plate. Place puff pastry rectangles on plate, and top with one of each tuna preparation. Garnish with remoulade and micro greens, and serve.

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ingredients

For the Pinot Noir reduction:

4 ounces slab bacon, finely chopped
1 Maui onion, peeled and finely chopped
2 red mountain apples, finely chopped*
1 quart chicken stock
3 cups Pinot Noir
1 teaspoon finely chopped thyme leaves
1 teaspoon finely chopped rosemary leaves
1 tablespoon butter
Sea salt and pepper to taste

For the toro tartare:

12 ounces ahi toro fillet, sinew removed and finely chopped**
1 teaspoon finely chopped chives
1 teaspoon grated horseradish
1/2 teaspoon lemon zest
1 teaspoon extra virgin olive oil
Sea salt to taste

For the celery root remoulade:

1 large peeled and julienned celery root
1 preserved lemon, finely julienned***
2 tablespoons finely chopped parsley leaves
5 chives, cut into 1-inch lengths
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 tablespoons creme fraiche
1 teaspoon lemon juice
Sea salt to taste

To finish:

2 tablespoons sea salt
1/4 cup cracked black peppercorns
4 2 1/2-ounce ahi fillets, plus 4 2-ounce pieces ahi, pounded thinly
  between plastic
3 tablespoons canola oil
4 garlic chives
Toro tartare, from above
Creme fraiche
4 5X2-inch rectangles puff pastry, baked until golden and cooled
Micro greens
Salt and pepper to taste

*Hawaiian name for Malay apple, a pear-shaped tropical fruit with sweet and mild flavor. Available through Pine Island Nursery, [phone] or www.tropicalfruitnursery.com.

**Meat from belly of fish. The high fat content gives it a tender, buttery texture.

***Available through Sur La Table, [phone] or www.surlatable.com.

RELATED ARTICLE: Warm Heirloom Greens Salad with Kurobuta Ham and Soft Poached Egg Yolk (Serves 4)

JOHN COX

Fume Blanc

Grgich Hills Cellar

Napa Valley, California 2003

directions

For the sherry vinaigrette: In saute pan over low heat, cook bacon until browned. Add onions and garlic and saute one minute. Add sherry, bring to boil and reduce over medium heat until almost dry. Transfer to bowl and whisk in remaining ingredients. Set aside at room temperature. Note: makes more than necessary for recipe. Store excess in refrigerator.

For the sherry gastrique: In saucepan, combine sugar and water and cook until sugar caramelizes. Add sherry and stir until smooth. Remove from heat and set aside at room temperature.

For the croutons: Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Brush baguette slices with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Wrap slices around outside of four 8-ounce oiled ramekins and squeeze ends together. Bake until crisped, about 12 minutes. Let cool at room temperature.

For the salad: Bring large saucepan of salted water to simmer. Carefully separate eggs, leaving yolks whole and reserving whites for another use. Slide yolks into water and cook until firm but still runny, about one minute. Lift yolks from water and remove any visible egg white. Heat vinaigrette in large saute pan over medium heat until it just begins to bubble. In bowl, toss all greens together, add to saute pan and cook briefly to warm through. Spoon saba, gastrique and additional vinaigrette onto plate. Place crouton on plate and fill with salad. Arrange yolks, ham and edamame around crouton and garnish with salt. Serve immediately.

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ingredients

For the sherry vinaigrette:

1 ounce bacon, finely chopped
1/2 Maui onion, peeled and finely chopped
1 clove garlic, peeled and finely chopped
1 cup sherry
2 tablespoons sherry vinegar
1/2 cup olive oil
1/2 teaspoon whole grain mustard
1/2 teaspoon finely chopped sage leaves
1/2 teaspoon finely chopped rosemary leaves
1/2 teaspoon finely chopped chives
Sea salt to taste

For the sherry gastrique:

1 cup granulated sugar
2 tablespoons water
3/4 cup sherry

For the croutons:

1 sourdough baguette, cut on electric slicer into very thin lengthwise
  slice
1/2 cup olive oil
Sea salt and pepper to taste

For the salad:

4 eggs
1/2 cup sherry vinaigrette, from above
1 ounce sweet potato tops*
1 ounce baby mustard greens
1 ounce Okinawa purple spinach
1 ounce wild Hawaiian spinach
1 ounce red mustard greens
1 ounce chicory
1 ounce Malabar spinach
1 ounce radicchio
1 ounce red Russian kale
1 ounce daikon radish greens
1 ounce bull's blood beet tops
1/4 cup saba**
4 ounces Kurobuta ham, grilled and cut in 1-inch pieces***
8 ounces blanched, shelled edamame Hawaiian red salt, as needed****

*Any combination of heirloom greens may be substituted. Available through The Chef's Garden, [phone] or www.chefsgarden.com.

** Saba is a reduction of grape must (pulp and juice prior to fermentation). Available through Earthy Delights, [phone] or www.earthy.com.

***From Japanese Kurobuta hogs, a breed considered exceptional in taste, texture and marbling. Available through Snake River Farms, [phone] or www.snakeriverfarms.com.

****Available through Saltworks[TM], [phone] or www.saltworks.us.

RELATED ARTICLE: Hapu Braised in Saffron (Serves 4)

JOHN COX

Chardonnay "Sleepy Hollow"

Talbatt Vineyards

Monterey, California 2000

directions

For the citrus aioli: In saucepan, combine juice, wine and saffron threads. Bring to boil and reduce until mixture coats back of wooden spoon. Remove from heat and let cool to room temperature. Whisk in yolk, then garlic. Slowly whisk in oil to emulsify. Adjust seasoning with lemon juice, salt and pepper. Set aside at room temperature.

For the braising liquid: In saucepan, combine all ingredients and bring to boil. Lower heat and simmer 10 minutes. Keep hot.

For the beet salad: In bowl, combine beets, fern tips and chives. Dress with lemon juice and olive oil and toss gently. Season with salt.

To finish: In saute pan, heat butter over medium heat until it foams and subsides. Season hapu with salt and pepper and brown slowly in butter. Add braising liquid and simmer until hapu is cooked through. Place salad on plate and top with hapu. Spoon aioli around, garnish with crab and serve immediately.

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ingredients

For the citrus aioli:

2/3 cup orange juice
1/3 cup white wine
Pinch of saffron threads
1 egg yolk
2 cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped
1 cup olive oil
Lemon juice to taste
Salt and pepper to taste

For the braising liquid:

3 cups white wine
1 pint clam juice
1 cup orange juice
1 Maui onion, peeled and coarsely chopped
1 sprig thyme
Pinch of saffron threads

For the beet salad:

8 roasted, peeled and sliced baby beets
2 cups pohole fern tips, blanched and shocked in ice water*
1 tablespoon chives
Lemon juice to taste
Olive oil to taste
Hawaiian red salt to taste**

To finish:

4 tablespoons butter
4 5-ounce hapu fillets***
Braising liquid, from above
Salt and pepper to taste

For the garnish:

Lump crabmeat

*Available through Hana Herbs, [phone] or www.maui.net/ ~hanaherb/.

**Available through Saltworks[TM], [phone] or www.saltworks.us.

***Hawaiian sea bass.

RELATED ARTICLE: Trio of Local Fruits (Serves 4)

JOHN COX & LUCY DAMKOEHLER

Evolution, 9th Edition

Sokol Blosser Winery

Willametta Valley, Oregon NV

directions

For the coconut sorbet: In bowl, combine all ingredients and process in ice cream machine according to manufacturer's instructions. Freeze until ready to serve.

For the pineapple chips: Preheat oven to 250 degrees. Place syrup in bowl. Dip pineapple slices in syrup and transfer to Silpat[R]-lined sheet pan. Bake one hour, let cool to room temperature and store in airtight container.

For the lychee sabayon: Combine yolks and sugar in bowl and whisk until pale and increased in volume. Transfer to double-boiler and cook, whisking constantly, until thickened. Remove from heat and stir in puree. Chill mixture over ice water bath and fold in whipped cream. Refrigerate until ready to serve.

For the lychee foam: Heat puree to boil in saucepan and reduce by half. Remove from heat and let cool to room temperature. Add cream and, using immersion blender, mix until frothy.

For the meringues: Preheat oven to 250. In bowl of electric mixer fitted with whisk, combine whites and sugar and whip to shiny, medium peaks. Transfer to pastry bag fitted with small tip and pipe 1-inch solid circles onto Silpat[R]-lined sheet pan. Bake one hour, let cool and store in airtight container.

For the dragonfruit sauce: In saucepan, combine all ingredients. Bring to boil, lower heat and reduce until sauce is thick enough to coat back of wooden spoon. Remove from heat and let cool to room temperature.

For the lime cream: In bowl, whisk cream and sugar together to stiff peaks. Add juice and whisk again to stiff peaks. Cover and refrigerate until ready to serve.

For the liliko'i gelee: In saucepan combine puree and simple syrup, and bring to simmer. Remove from heat. Squeeze excess water from gelatin and dissolve in liliko'i mixture. Divide between four 6-ounce ramekins and refrigerate until set.

For the mango panna cotta: In saucepan, bring heavy cream and sugar to boil. Remove from heat and whisk in sour cream and mango puree. Squeeze excess water from gelatin and dissolve in mango mixture. Strain mango mixture and pour over set lilikoi gelee and refrigerate at least four hours.

For the mango tuile: Preheat oven to 250 degrees. In saucepan, combine all ingredients. Bring to boil and reduce by three-quarters. Strain through fine-mesh sieve and spread thinly on Silpat[R]-lined sheet pan. Bake 45 minutes, transfer to work surface and cut into triangles. Store in airtight container.

To serve: For the lychee, fill dragonfruit shells with lychee sabayon and top with pineapple chip. Place sliced lychees and lychee foam alongside and top with quenelle of coconut sorbet. For the dragonfruit, spoon dragonfruit sauce on plate and top with diced dragonfruit, lime cream and two meringue circles. For the liliko'i, spoon liliko'i pulp on plate, unmold gelee-panna cottas on top, and garnish with mango tuile.

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ingredients

For the coconut sorbet:

8 ounces fresh coconut milk
4 ounces simple syrup
4 ounces water

For the pineapple chips:

24 ounces simple syrup
1/2 pineapple, peeled and thinly sliced

For the lychee sabayon:

3 egg yolks
2 1/2 ounces granulated sugar
4 ounces lychee puree
4 ounces heavy cream, whipped to stiff peaks

For the lychee foam:

1 ounce lychee puree
1 ounce heavy cream

For the meringues:

3 egg whites
5 ounces confectioners' sugar

For the dragonfruit sauce:

1 dragonfruit, peeled and pureed*
4 ounces simple syrup
2 teaspoons corn syrup

For the lime cream:

4 ounces heavy cream
1/2 ounce granulated sugar
Juice of 1 lime

For the liliko'i gelee:

6 ounces liliko'i puree**
2 ounces simple syrup
2 sheets gelatin, softened in cold water

For the mango panna cotta:

8 ounces heavy cream
2 ounces granulated sugar
1 ounce sour cream
4 ounces mango puree
3 sheets gelatin, softened in cold water

For the mango tuile:

1 mango, peeled and sliced
4 ounces simple syrup
4 ounces Champagne

To serve:

4 dragonfruit, scooped, flesh cut into medium dice
Lychees, peeled, pitted and slice
Liliko'i pulp**

*Available through Melissa's, [phone] or www.melissas.com.

**Yellow passion fruit. Purple passion fruit may be substituted.